PROF.  WILLIAMS 


NEW    SYSX 


[SHi 


rr-^ 


JOHNA.SEAVERNS 


9090  014  558  791 


Websler  family  U>rary  of  Vetednary  M€Kik^ 

CmmninQs  Schoof  of  Veterinary  Medicine  at 

Tufts  University 

200  Westboro  Road 

North  Grafton,  MA  01536 


ITEW    SYSTEM 


OF 


HANDLING  AND  EDUCATING  THE  HORSE, 


TOGETHER    WITH 


DISEASES  AND  THEIR  TREATMENT. 
By  C.  H.  C.  WILLIAAIS. 


ALSO 

A.  TREATISE  ON  SHOEING;    EDUCATING  CATTLE  AND  DOGS, 

WITH    HINTS    ON    STABLE    MANAGEMENT  J     WITH 

THE     RULES    AND     REGULATIONS    OF 

TROTTING,    RACING    AND 

BETTING. 


CLAREMONT,  N.  H.: 

CLAUEMONT  MANUFACTURING  COMPANY,  FRINTEUS. 

1878. 


■+& 


NAMES  AND  SITUATIONS  OF  THE  EXTERNAL 
PARTS  OF  THE  HORSE. 


1.  Muscles. 

2.  Face. 

3.  Forehead. 

4.  Poll. 

5.  Crest. 

6.  Withers. 

7.  Back. 

8.  Loins. 

9.  Hip. 
10.  Croup. 
IL  Dock. 

12.  Quarters. 

13.  Thigh. 

14.  Hamstring. 


15.  Hock. 

16.  Cannon. 

17.  Fetlock. 

18.  Large  Pastern. 

19.  Small  Pastern. 

20.  Hoof. 

21.  Sheath. 

22.  Flank. 

23.  Belly. 

24.  Stifle. 

25.  Coronet. 

26.  Girth.  i 

27.  Elbow.  I 

28.  Arm. 


29.  Heel. 

30.  Small  Pastern. 

31.  Large  Pastern. 

32.  Fetlock. 

33.  Cannon  or  Shank. 
31.  Knee. 

35.  Forearm. 

36.  Breast. 

37.  Point. 

38.  Shoulder. 

39.  Windpipe. 
30.  Gullet. 

41.  Neck. 

42.  Jowl. 


HISTORY 

OF    THE 

CELEBRATED    HORSES 

TRAINED    AND    EXHIBITED    BY 

'        0.  H.   O.   WILLIAMS. 

MORGAN  TIGER. 

This  famous  horse  was  bred  by  Lafayette  Knapp,  Mid- 
dlesex, Vt.;  is  a  beautiful  bay,  with  black  mane  and  tail, 
one  hind  foot  white;  weighs  1050  pounds;  is  eight  years 
old.  and  in  style  and  action  is  unsurpassed. 

He  was  sired  by  the  "  Old  Flying  Morgan,"  and  in  speed 
and  endurance  is  fully  his  equal  in  his  best  days. 

His  dam  was  a  full  blooded  "  Justin  Morgan." 

Previous  to  my  purchasing  this  horse,  he  had  been  under 
training  by  the  "Rockwell  System,"  which  failing,  he  was 
left  more  vicious  and  unmanageable  than  before.  (He 
was  a  sullen,  bolting,  plunging,  runaway  horse,  and  had  be- 
come perfectly  unmanageable  by  Mr.  Lamson,  of  whom  I 
purchased  him.)  In  ten  days  after  applying  my  system, 
he  became  perfectly  tractable,  and  was  successfully  ex- 
hibited in  Wentworth,  N.  H.,  as  a  "Trick  Horse,"  and 
driven  through  the  streets  without  reins^  by  Professor  Wil- 
liams. He  has  been  on  constant  exhibition  for  a  little 
more  than  two  years,  and  is  judged  to  be  the  most  thor- 
oughly trained  horse  in  America. 


6  THE   HORSE   OWNER'S 

GENERAL  MAC. 

This  horse  was  raised  b}'  Wm.  D.  Huntly,  at  Mexico, 
Oswego,  Co.,  N.  Y.,  and  is  eight  years  old. 

He  exhibits  the  most  perfect  characteristics  of  a  full- 
blooded  3Iorgan  horse  we  have  ever  seen;  is  a  blood- 
bay,  with  black  mane  and  tail.  His  mane  is  very  heavy 
and  fine,  measuring  three  feet  and   six  mches  in  length. 

This  was  a  very  luicked  runaway  horse,  and  perfectly 
ungovernable  in  harness.  He  is  now  under  training,  to 
be  driven  clouhle  with  "Morgan  Tiger,"  without  reins, 
and  is  making  rapid  progress.  After  one  week's  training 
he  made  a  graceful  appearance  in  the  streets  of  Bradford, 
Vt.,  driven  by  Prof.  Williams,  without  reins,  amid  the 
cheers  of  the  throng  who  had  gathered  to  witness  the  feat. 

Gen.  Mac.  and  Morgan  Tiger,  (driven  together  without 
reins),  for  beauty,  agility  and  perfect  obedience  to  the  re- 
quirements of  their  driver,  when  on  exhibition,  passing 
through  crowded  streets,  avoiding  vehicles  and  obstacles 
of  every  kind,  stand  unrivaled  by  any  effort  of  the  kind 
on  record. 

AMERICAN  HUNTER. 

I  purchased  this  horse  of  the  administrators  of  the  es- 
tate of  the  late  Jesse  Johnson,  Esq.,  of  Fairlee,  Vt.  He 
was  sired  by  a  thorough-bred  horse  called  "  Hunter",  im- 
ported by  R.  and  J.  Johnson,  of  Bradford,  Vt.;  dam  a 
Sherman  Morgan.  He  is  a  beautiful  dark  bay,  with 
black  points,  15^  hands  high,  and  weighs  1,150  lbs.;  age 
12  years  last  June,  and  was  considered  a  very  wicked  and 
dangerous  horse  when  purchased. 

He  received  his  first  lesson  from  me  at  Gilbertsville,  Ot- 
sego county,  N.  Y.,  May  7th,  1867,  but  owing  l^o  other 
engagements,  he  received  no  more  lessons  until  May  IGtli 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  7 

of  the  same  year  at  Bridgewater,  Oneida  county,  N.  Y.  I 
then  commenced  his  instruction,  giving  him  a  lesson  every 
day  until  the  4th  of  June.  I  then  gave  an  exhibition 
at  Leonardsville,  Madison  county,  N.  Y.;  driving  him 
without  rein,  and  turning  him  loose  in  the  streets  as  a  trick 
horse,  controling  him  entirely  by  whip  and  word  of  com- 
mand. 

He  has  been  on  exhibition  ever  since  that  time,  and 
taking  into  consideration  his  willful  and  stubborn  dispo- 
sition, I  consider  him  one  of  the  best  and  most  tractable 
horses  on  exhibition. 

£^^  "On  the  3d  day  of  April,  1865,  we  commenced 
training  a  wild  and  nervous  Black  Hawk  horse  for  Messrs. 
Williams  <k  Wilder,  who  were  at  that  time  receivina  in- 
structions  from  us,  preparatory  to  giving  instructions 
themselves.  In  about  six  days  we  delivered  them  the 
horse,  and  on  the  following  week  they  gave  a  successful 
exhibition  at  Whitingham,  Vt.  They  continued  to  give 
successful  performances  for  some  months,  when,  through 
entire  carelessness  on  the  part  of  the  driver,  the  horse 
was  severely  injured  by  the  breaking  of  a  vehicle,  and  has 
not  since  been  exhibited.  We  are  informed  that  each  of 
these  gentlemen  have  a  horse  which  they  are  driving  with- 
out reins,  broken  according  to  our  directions." 

I  am  surprised  to  see  the  above  fabrication  published 
by  Messrs.  Eockwell  &  Hurlbut.  Any  man  who  gives 
his  time  and  energy  to  the  self-sacrificing  business  of  teach- 
ing rational  horsemanship,  should  be  a  man  entitled  to 
the  respect  of  an  intelligent  people ;  but  when,  from  j'eal- 
ousy  or  malice,  he  becomes  thus  reckless  of  truth  and 
honor,  he  relinquishes  his  manhood,  and  becomes  an  object 
of  mere  disgust  and  detestation. 


8  THE   HORSE   OWNER's 

We  say  "  God  speed  "  to  every  man  who  is  laboring  to 
increase  the  usefulness  and  value  of  that  noble  animal, 
the  Horse. 

But  to  the  facts  :  I  had  been  teaching  Horsemanship 
for  several  years,  successfully,  previous  to  the  3d  day 
of  April  1863,  and  previous  to  my  ever  having  seen  Mr. 
Rockwell,  or  to  his  ever  having  adopted  the  profession  of 
horsemanship.  The  horse.  Black  Hawk  Tiger,  was  neither 
trained  nor  ever  driven,  nor  even  seen  by  Mr.  Rockwell, 
either  then,  previous  or  subsequent  to  that  time,  to  my 
knowledge ;  but  was  trained  and  is  still  owned  by  me, 
and  is  the  same  proud-spirited  animal,  (and  driven  with- 
out reins  at  my  pleasure,)  whose  reputation  excited  Mr. 
Rockwell  to  issue  the  above  base  fabrications. 

The  "injury"  spoken  of  was  occasioned  by  the  break- 
ing of  the  shafts  of  the  wagon  in  which  he  was  being 
driven,  in  making  a  short  turn,  thus  freeing  himself  from 
the  wagon,  and  for  a  moment,  losing  sight  of  his  driver  ; 
but,  upon  the  signal,  he  immediately  returned,  with  the 
splintered  shafts  dangling  about  his  legs,  and,  in  doing  so, 
he  got  a  splinter  in  his  foot,  and  for  three  weeks  was  not 
exhibited  ;  but  after  that  was  exhibited  daily  until  my  fa- 
mous horse,  Morgan  Tiger,  was  put  upon   exhibition. 

THE  FIRST   STEP   TO   BE   TAKEIT  WITH  A 
WILD    COLT. 

Get  your  colt  into  some  enclosure — small  barn-yard  or 
barn-lioor.  This  is  the  colt's  first  idea  of  confinement. 
See  that  everything  is  so  arranged  that  it  cannot  jump 
over,  nor  get  under  ;  also  have  the  enclosure  so  an  anged 
that  it  cannot  injure  itself  by  running  against  anything. 

Everything  is  now  ready  for  the  colt  to  receive  its  first 


ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE.  » 

lesson ;'  and  Low  is  this  to  be  accomplished  ?  Some  indi- 
viduals, unacquainted  with  this  system,  would  say  that 
the  plan  here  adopted,  would  so  frighten  a  wild  colt,  that 
it  would  prove  a  failure ;  but  it  is  quite  the  reverse,  for 
years  of  experience  has  taught  us  to  believe  that  it  is 
natural  for  all  animals  on  the  face  of  this  broad  earth,  to 
do  whatever  will  add  to  their  pleasure,  and  enable  them 
to  shun  pain.  Prepare  yourself  with  a  good  spring-top 
whip,  step  into  the  enclosure,  all  is  now  safe ;  you  alone 
with  your  colt,  with  nothing  to  attract  his  attention  but 
yourself.  You  have  your  whip  in  your  hand  ;  now  re- 
member that  the  whip  is  a  very  good  thing  in  its  place, 
but  I  am  sorry  to  say  that  it  often  gets  out  of  place.  Do 
not  use  your  whip  to  hurt  the  colt,  but  to  get  his  attention. 
Stand  quietly  for  a  few  moments  and  then  give  your 
whip  a  sharp  crack,  and  he  will  eye  you  closely  ;  now 
gently  approach  him,  looking  him  fully  in  the  eye  ;  if  he 
attempts  to  turn  to  ran  from  you,  give  him  a  sharp  crack 
with  your  whip  around  the  hind  legs  and  under  the  flank. 
Never  strike  him  forward  of  the  quarters,  and  if  possible, 
avoid  striking  him  while  he  is  looking  at  you.  After 
applying  your  whip  in  this  way  until  he  will  stand  quiet 
with  his  head  towards  you,  take  your  whip  in  your  left 
hand,  holding  out  your  right,  and  gently  approach  him 
saying,  Ho!  boy;  but  in  approaching  him,  if  he  should 
turn  and  run  from  you,  apply  the  whip  smartly  to  his 
hind  legs.  In  a  very  few  moments  he  does  not  turn  his 
quarters  towards  you,  bat  will  stand  and  face  you,  and 
allow  you  to  place  your  hand  upon  his  neck,  pat  and 
caress  him.  In  so  doing,  you  gain  his  confidence,  and 
awaken  two  qualities  of  his  nature,  fear  and  love  ;  he 
loves  to  be  with  you,  and  he  fears  to  leave  you.     When  he 


10  THE   HORSE   OWNEK's 

comes  to  yon,  he  comes  for  protection ;  if  he  attempts  to 
leave  yon  he  is  sure  to  get  into  trouble. 

In  a  very  few  moments  he  will  allow  you  to  handle  him, 
all  around  his  head  and  neck,  and  follow  yon  like  a  pet 
dog.  This  exercise  was  fully  illustrated  by  J.  Smith,  of 
Virginia,  which  is  thus  described  by  S.  W.  Coles. 

"  A  wild  and  vicious  mare  was  brought  to  him,  which 
it  was  said  he  could  not  manage  unless  he  dealt  with  the 
devil,  for  she  was  a  wild  thorough-bred  mare,  high 
tempered,  and  disposed  to  kick  and  bite.  She  was  driven 
into  the  barn ;  he  entered  and  fastened  the  door.  Before 
she  had  time  to  survey  him,  he  was  giving  her  the  lash 
smartly.  Around  she  went,  kicking  and  jumping,  no 
rest,  the  sweat  flowed,  and  she  slackened  in  her  move- 
ments. When  she  approached  him  he  ceased  whipping, 
and  held  out  his  hand  and  said,  come  along !  Again 
she  was  off,  and  the  whip  was  applied.  This  was  re- 
peated several  times  before  she  would  advance ;  when 
she  moved  towards  him,  he  approached  and  patted  her, 
and  as  he  moved  away  and  said,  come  along,  she  fol- 
lowed ;  in  a  moment  she  darted  off,  he  applied  the  whip 
smartly,  she  stopped,  trembled  and  approached  him,  he 
patted  her  neck  and  said,  come  along!  and  she  followed 
him  several  times  around  the  barn;  when  she  lagged  he 
was  away  and  the  whip  applied ;  after  that  she  would  not 
remain  two  feet  from  him.  He  ordered  the  door  opened, 
and  the  mare  followed  close  to  him  through  the  crowd 
and  back  to  the  stable."  This  shows  and  proves  clearly 
the  first  step,  and  the  only  correct  way  of  forming  an  ac- 
quaintance with  wild  and  vicious  horses.  But  it  should 
be  remembered,  that  your  main  object  is  to  get  the  confi- 
dence and  attention  of  your  horse.     You  will  find  some 


3 


ILLUSTRATED     GUIDE.  13 

that  naturally  have  too  much  fear  of  man — others  have 
no  fear  nor  regard  for  man ;  therefore  you  must  use  your 
best   judgment. 

The  best  advice  that  I  can  now  give  you  is,  control 
yourself — gain  the  confidence  of  your  horse,  and  never 
betray  it  by  harsh  and  brutal  treatment. 

Your  colt  is  now  brought  up  by  the  use  of  the  whip, 
and  follows  close  by  your  side.  The  next  step  is  to  teach 
him  that  his  strength,  cpmpared  with  yours,  amounts  to 
nothing. 

Satisfy  him  that  you  can  control  him  as  you  wish,  and 
that  if  he  will  submit  he  will  not  be  hurt. 

This  is  best  accomplished  by  the  use  of  our  surcingle. 
(See  Fig.  2.) 

Much  has  been  said  of  J.  S.  Rarey's  system  of  subju- 
gating horses.  It  is  known  almost  the  world  over.  He 
taught  his  system  throughout  the  United  States,  Upper 
and  Lower  Canada,  and  has  also  had  the  honor  of  operat- 
ing before  the  Royal  Court  of  England;  and,  as  far 
as  our  knowledge  extends,  his  system  has  met  with  the- 
approval  of  all  those  who  have  attended  his  lectures. 

But,  after  giving  him  all  the  praise  that  is  due  to  him, 
it  must  be  admitted  that  horsemanship,  like  all  other 
sciences  has  met  with  very  great  improvements.  The 
plan  that  we  adopt  is  considered  far  superior  to  Mr. 
Rarey's,  or  any  other  plan  ever  introduced;  for  our  theory 
places  the  horse  in  a  position,  that  he  is  unconscious  of 
the  amount  of  his  strength. 

Teach  and  satisfy  him  that  we  can  control  every 
muscle  in  his  system, — not  only  his  head  and  neck,  but  his 
limbs,  and  his  back.  When  once  satisfied  of  this  fact,  he 
submits  himself  to   our  will,  and  is  then,  and  not  till  then. 


J.4        ,  THE   HORSE   OWNEE's 

prepared  to  receive  further  instruction  ;  for  now  we  have 
the  three  points  established,  fear,  love  and  obedience. 
Now  for  the  practical  use  of  the  surcingle. 

After  teaching  the  horse  to  come  to  you,  take  the  sur- 
cingle in  your  hand,  and  approach  him  at  the  left  side,  pat 
and  caress  him ;  carefully  lay  the  surcingle  over  his  back 
and  buckle  it  as  you  would  over  a  blanket.  Now  gen- 
tly raise  the  left  forward  foot,  and  place  it  in  the  surcin- 
gle by  the  use  of  the  strap  attached  to  the  third  ring  of 
the  surcinole,  as  in  Fio^.  3. 

Your  horse  is  now  upon  three  legs,  and  it  is  impossible 
for  him  to  free  himself.  He  finds  that  he  is  fast  and  in 
trouble,  and  as  you  have  taught  him  to  come  to  you  for 
protection,  he  instantly  comes  to  you  for  help.  Now  as 
he  calls  to  you  for  assistance,  be  ever  ready  and  willing 
to  assist  him.  By  so  doing,  you  awaken  his  love  and 
gratitude,  at  the  same  time  destrojnng  his  confidence  in 
his  own  ability.  As  you  approach,  gently  pat  and  caress 
him,  and  relieve  his  foot.  After  caressing  him  for  a  short 
time,  step  to  the  other  side  and  place  the  right  foot  in  the 
fifth  ring  of  the  surcingle,  which  comes  in  the  same  posi- 
tion as  the  third  ring  on  the  left  side.  He  will  soon  call 
for  help ;  as  soon  as  he  does,  pat  and  caress  him.  Up  tx) 
this  time  you  have  not  attempted  to  control  his  head,  and 
why  ?  The  main  object  thus  far  has  been  to  gain  his  con- 
fidence, aud  satisfy  him  that  you  could  control  him,  and  if 
you  should  try  to  control  his  head  he  would  be  very  anxious 
to  free  himself;  and  also,  in  attempting  to  control  his  head 
you  must  necessarily  inflict  pain,  and  that  would  tend  to  de- 
stroy confidence  in  you,  for  he  would  be  as  anxious  to  free 
his  head  from  anything  that  was  hurting  him,  as  you 
would  to  free  your  hand  from  the  fire,  if  a  man  was  hold- 


ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE. 


15 


(Fig.  8.) 


16 


THE    HORSE    OWNER  S 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  17 

ing  it  there.  Yon  now  take  a  common  riding  bridle  and 
carefully  place  it  upon  his  bead,  being  very  careful  not 
to  hurt  his  mouth  nor  teeth  with  the  bit ;  do  not  pull  his 
ears  nor  pinch  his  nose;  draw  the  bit  well  up  to  the  angle 
of  the  mouth. 

The  bridle  now  being  upon  his  head,  let  the  foot  down, 
and  take  a  single  driving  rein,  and  make  it  fast  to  the 
fifth  ring  of  the  surcingle ;  your  ten  inch  strap  with  ring 
attached,  run  on  to  the  rein ;  now  run  the  long  line 
to  the  sixth  ring,  which  comes  just  above  the  fifth.  The 
fifth  and  sixth  rings  are  called  the  pulley  rings.  By 
drawing  tight  npon  the  long  line,  you  will  see  that  the 
ten  inch  strap  is  drawn  to  the  surcingle.  Now  run  the 
long  line  to  the  ninth  ring,  which  comes  near  the  top  of 
the  back,  and  to  the  right  side  of  the  horse.  Run  the 
long  line  to  the  bit-ring,  on  the  right  side,  and  lay  it  over 
his  back  to  the  left  side.  Now  step  to  the  left  side,  and 
place  the  foot  to  the  third  ring,  take  the  long  line  in 
your  right  hand,  the  rein  in  your  left,  draw  his  head  a 
little  from  you  by  the  use  of  the  line  over  his  back,  as 
shown  in  Fiof.  4.,  and  in  about  one  minute  he  will  lie 
down  upon  his  left  side,  with  his  head  fast  to  the  right 
side,  which  prevents  him  from  regaining  his  feet,  and  also 
teaches  him  that  you  can  control  his  head.  He  will  soon 
yield  his  head  to  you,  and  allow  you  to  handle  it  in  any 
way  you  wish. 

When  he  submits  himself  to  you,  lay  his  head  gently  to 
the  floor ;  lay  your  right  leg  gently  over  his  back ;  take 
the  ten  inch  strap  in  your  right  hand  and  fasten  it  to  the 
pastern  of  the  right  fore  foot.  Now  pass  the  long  line  to 
the  seventh  ring;  you  now  have  both  forward  feet  to  sur- 
cingle, and  his  head  fast  to  his  side ;  now  take  your  pole 


18  THE   HORSE   OWNER's 

strap ;  loop  one  to  the  upper  or  right  hind  leg ;  draw  it 
up  and  make  fast  to  the  eighth  ring  ;  the  lower  or  left  hind 
leg  to  the  fourth  ring'.  Now  all  of  the  legs  and  head  are 
fast  to  the  surcingle,  and  as  much  under  your  control  as 
though  he  was  screwed  in  a  vice,  and  he  is  just  in  the  right 
position  to  perform  any  surgical  operation,  such  as  cas- 
trating and  the  like.  We  never  ask  over  ten  minutes  to 
castrate  any  stallion  alone,  without  the  assistance  of  any 
one.  I  claim,  after  long  experience  and  acquaintance 
with  other  methods,  that  this  is  the  best  and  only  true 
device  in  practical  use  for  this  purpose. 

By  handling  your  horse  in  this  manner,  you  place  him 
in  a  position  that  he  is  wholly  unconscious  of  his  strength, 
and  when  you  bring  him  to  his  feet,  he  is  willing  to  do  al- 
most anything  you  may  require  of  him  without  resistance. 
You  now  have  the  three  points  established,  fear,  love,  and 
obedience,  and  a  foundation  laid  for  future  education. 
Your  colt  has  learned  to  follow  to  the  right  and  left 
and  straight  ahead.  By  the  use  of  your  whip,  you  have 
also  satisfied  him  that  you  can  control  him.  You  mast 
now  teach  him  to  stand  hitched  with  the  halter,  and  in  a 
way  to  prevent  his  ever  learning  to  pull  on  the  halter. 
(See  Fig.  5.) 

Lead  him  into  the  stall  and  hitch  by  this  plan,  and  he 
is  thoroughly  halter-broken,  without  ever  being  injured 
about  the  head.  After  testing  all  other  methods  ever  in- 
troduced, I  find  this  decidedly  preferable  to  any  other; 
and,  how  far  preferable  to  the  old  barbarous  and  inhuman 
way  of  snubbing  him  to  a  post,  and  permitting  him  to 
pull  until  nearly  or  quite  dead!  And  what  right  has 
man  to  inflict  so  much  agony  upon  any  life  entrusted  to 
his  care  ?     What  right  has  humanity  to  complain  of  tyr- 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE. 


19 


20 


THE   HORSE   OWNER's 


CD 
S 


ILLUSTKATED   GUIDE,  21 

anny.in  its  superiors,  when  the  human  race  can  neglect 
and  entail  such  anguish  upon  the  beings  beneath  them. 

A  little  self-restraint  instilled  by  a  better  plan  of  edu- 
cation; a  little  more  humanity  enforced  by  the  teachers 
of  religion,  to  instruct  that  man  should  not  vievv  himself 
as  the  owner  of  the  earth,  which  he  temporarily  inhabits ; 
that  man  should  not  consider  himself  the  proprietor  of 
the  lives  which  share  the  globe  with  him;  that  man 
should  be  actuated  by  genuine  Christian  Love  towards 
all  animated  nature;  feeling  kindly  for  the  lives  akin  to 
his  own,  and  acknowledging,  as  fellow  sojourners,  the 
creatures  by  which  he  is  surrounded;  then  how  much 
affliction  might  be  eradicated  from  that  which  wickedness 
alone  renders  a  "vale  of  tears." 

BITTING  THE  COLT. 

Here  it  should  be  remembered,  that  the  main  object  is 
to  get  an  easy,  governable  mouth;  not,  as  many  people 
suppose,  to  make  a  stylish  horse  for,  no  matter  how  styl- 
ish your  horse  may  appear,  if  he  has  not  a  governable 
month,  he  is  not  a   safe  nor   a    pleasant  horse    to    drive. 

Long  experience  has  taught  me,  that  all  bad  horses  in 
harness  have  ungovernable  mouths,  therefore,  let  your 
main  object  be  to  accomplish  the  above.  And  we  think 
the  following  plan  superior  to  any  other.     (See  Fig.  6.) 

THE  BITTING  BRIDLE. 

Take  a  strap  two  and  one-half  feet  in  length,  and  one  inch 
wide,  with  a  one  and  a  half  inch  ring  sewed  to  one  end 
of  it;  now  attach  another  three  inch  strap,  of  the  same 
width,  with  a  buckle.  Now,  Scinches  from  the  ring,  inside 
of  the  long  strap,  attach  a  piece  of  elastic  rubber,  seven  or 


22  THE   HORSE   OWNER's 

eight  inches  in  length,  and  to  this  rubber  fasten  a  small  cord, 
twelve  or  fifteen  feet  long,  looped  through  the  ring.  Now 
place  a  common  headstall  upon  your  colt's  head,  with 
the  overdraw-check,  leaving  the  rein  quite  loose  ;  leave 
him  in  the  yard  or  stable  for  a  few  moments,  then  remove 
it,  frequently  replacing  and  allowing  it  to  remain  on  a 
short  time,  ^y  this  means  his  mouth  becomes  used  to 
the  bit,  which  is  much  'better  than  the  old  plan.  After 
he  has  become  a  little  used  to  the  bridle  in  this  way 
you  can  commence  bitting  or  teaching  him  to  come  to 
the  bit.  Take  your  bitting  bridle,  and  buckle  around 
the  neck,  (the  same  as  you  would  a  strap  halter  around 
the  neck),  leaving  the  ring  in  the  strap  to  come  under 
the  throat;  now  loop  the  cord  into  the  mouth  and  draw  np 
your  check-rein  as  tight  as  he  can  comfortably  bear ;  now 
take  your  cord  in  your  hand  (See  Fig.  6.)  and  lead  him 
about  the  yard ;  whenever  he  attempts  to  rest  upon  the 
bit,  give  him  a  light,  quick  jerk  upward  with  your  cord, 
which  will  soon  teach  him  to  keep  his  head  up.  After 
working  in  this  manner  a  few  times,  then  step  to  the 
right  side,  a  little  back  of  the  quarters,  and  give  him  a 
quick  jerk  to  the  right,  not  hard  enough  to  shake  him  off 
from  his  feet,  but  just  enough  to  bring  him  around  to 
you ;  now  step  to  the  left  side,  and  repeat  as  on  the  right 
side.  In  about  one  hour,  by  limiting  your  lessons  to  five 
or  ten  minutes,  and  repeating  until  the  head  is  rendered 
freely  and  readily  to  the  pressure  of  the  rein,  you  will 
have  him    sufSciently  bitted  to  harness. 

HITOHIira    THE    COLT    IN    THE    STALL     THE 
FIRST   TIME. 

After  halter-breaking  your  colt,  it  is  then  necessary  to 
give  him  a  rest  before  working  him  farther  ;   and  to  hitch 


ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE.  23 

hirn  in  the  stall  for  the  first  time,  observe  the  following 
rule  : — Examine  your  stnble  very  closely,  in  order  to  as- 
certain that  there  are  no  loose  nor  broken  planks  in  the 
floor,  also  see  that  the  rack,  manger  and  lining  of  the 
stall  is  sound  and  all  right.  All  is  now  in  readiness; 
lead  him  quietly  up  to  the  stall.  If  he  shows  any  sign 
of  fear,  let  him  stop  for  a  few  moments ;  talk  gently ;  also 
pat  him  on  the  neck.  By  so  doing,  you  will  dispel  his 
fear,  and  he  will  quietly  pass  into  the  stall.  Now  for 
the  plan  of  hitching  him.  If  you  should  hitch  him  with 
the  tie-strap,  as  is  generally  practiced,  some  little  noise 
on  the  scaffold  above,  (such  as  the  scratching  of  hens,  or  the 
like),  would  cause  him  to  stare,  pull,  break  loose,  and 
soon  he  is  a  confirmed  halter-puller.  The  plan  we  adopt 
for  hitching  the  colt  the  first  time  is  simple  and  effectual. 
Procure  a  piece  of  rein  webbing  fifteen  feet  in  length,  or 
a  strap  one  and  a  fourth  inches  wide,  of  the  same  length. 
Get  the  center  of  said  web  or  strap ;  now  buckle  a 
common  web  surcingle  around  his  body,  just  back  of  the 
shoulder,  then  lay  your  webbing  across  his  hips,  carry  one 
end  forward  between  the  surcingle  and  body  on  the  left 
side,  the  opposite  end  between  the  surcingle  and  body  on 
the  off  side  of  the 'colt,  the  center  resting  across  his  hips, 
the  ends  carried  forward ;  now  take  the  center  of  the 
webbing  in  your  right  hand  and  give  it  one  turn  over ;  that 
leaves  it  crossed  upon  his  hips ;  now  carry  the  center 
back,  and  pass  his  tail  through  the  loop  that  you  made 
by  turning  the  center  of  the  webbing  over — the  same 
as  crupping  with  harness;  step  forward,  reach  your  left 
hand  through  under  the  colt's  neck,  and  tie  them  snug 
around  the  chest;  next  carry  the  end  of  your  tie-strap 
through  the  hole  or  ring  in  the  manger,  bring  back  and 


24  THE   HOKSE   OWNEE's 

make  fast  to  the  webbing  that  passes  around  the  chest. 
Your  colt  is  now  made  fast  in  the  stall  by  the  use  of 
the  webbing  attached  to  his  tail;  you  need  have  no 
fears  of  his  breaking  the  halter  or  injuring  himself. 

Place  him  in  that  position  a  few  times,  and  there  is  no 
danger  of  his  ever  breaking  a  common  halter.  If  you 
should  at  any  time  use  a  rope  in  place  of  webbing,  wind 
the  crupper  part  with  a  piece  of  soft  cloth,  otherwise  you 
would  injure  his  tail.  This  plan  will  break  the  worst 
of  halter-pullers. 

ANDLING   THE   COLT'S  FEET. 

We  consider  it  tiie  duty  of  every  one  that  raises  a  colt, 
to  prepare  it  for  the  smith  before  he  takes  it  to  the  shop 
to  get  it  shod,  for  many  valuable  colts  have  been  made 
almost  worthless  through  neglect  of  this.  There  are  few 
horses  that  may  not  be  gradually  rendered  manageable 
for  this  purpose.  By  mildness  and  firmness  they  will 
soon  learn  that  no  harm  is  meant,  and  they  will  not  for- 
get their  usual  habit  of  obedience  ;  but  if  the  remem- 
brance of  corporal  punishment  is  connected  with  shoeing, 
they  will  be  more  or  less  fidgety,  and  sometimes  very 
dano-erous.  We  wish  that  it  was  a  law  in  every  smith- 
shop,  that  no  man  should  be  permitted  to  strike  a  horse, 
much  less  to  twitch  or  gag  him  without  the  owner's  con- 
sent, and  that  a  young  horse  should  never  be  struck  nor 
twitched.  The  plan  that  we  adopt  to  handle  the  feet  is 
very  simple  and  not  less  effectual.  By  adopting  this  plan 
your  colt  can  in  a  few  moments  be  taught  to  stand  per- 
fectly still  to  be  shod.  As  soon  as  you  get  your  colt 
thoroughly  broken  to  the  halter,  get  a  strap  or  a  piece 
of  webbing  eighteen  feet  in  length;  now  tie  one  end  of 
the  strap  or  webbing  around  the  colt's  neck,  just  where 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  25 

the  collar  comes  ;  work  it  well  back  to  the  shoulder;  you 
are  now  standing  at  the  left  side  of  the  colt;  do  not  be 
in  a  hurry ;  work  handily  and  carefully ;  be  very  uniform 
in  your  words  and  acts ;  now  take  the  other  end  of  your 
strap,  gently  pass  it  back  between  the  forward  legs, 
bring  it  through  to  the  left  side  ;  now  lay  it  over  his 
back,  and,  with  your  right  hand  under  his  chest,  you  can 
draw  it  through  again  to  the  left  side;  now  place  the 
end  up  into  the  loop  around  the  neck.  You  will  now 
find  your  strap  crossed  just  back  of  the  left  fore-arm  ; 
gently  raise  the  left  foot,  and  lay  it  into  the  strap  that 
comes  between  the  legs;  the  outside  strap  is  wound 
around  the  ankle.  Now  take  the  end  that  is  passed 
through  the  loop  around  the  neck  in  your  rioht  hand 
your  left  holding  the  colt  by  the  head ;  you  will  see  that 
you  hav^e  the  foot  secure,  with  no  possible  chance  to  in- 
jure himself  in  the  least,  as  the  whole  strain  comes  over 
the  back  and  around  the  neck.  Let  the  colt  stand  until 
he  attempts  to  free  the  foot ;  but  if  you  hold  him  firm  he 
will  soon  find  it  useless,  and  give  up,  and  yield  his  foot 
to  you.  The  moment  that  he  yields,  and  not  till  then, 
relieve  him.  You  have  now  fully  convinced  him  that 
you  are  not  going  to  hurt  him,  and  that  he  cannot  get 
his  foot  from  you ;  you  will  have  no  more  trouble  with 
that  foot.  Now  try  the  right  foot  in  the  same  manner; 
handle  each  one  thoroughly;  remember  that  it  is  just  as 
necessary  to  handle  the  fore  feet  as  the  hind  ones,  for  a 
horse  that  is  vicious  to  shoe  forward  is  more  dangerous 
than  one  that  is  bad  behind.  Now  handle  the  hind  feet. 
Have  the  strap  around  the  neck,  and  between  the  fore 
legs,  as  before,  and  carry  it  back  through  the  hind  legs, 
around  the  near  hind  leg  below  the  fetlock,  and  bring  for- 


26  THE  HORSE  owner's 

ward  throngli  the  loop  around  the  neck.  Take  the  colt  by 
the  head  with  your  left  hand,  and  the  strap  in  your  right ; 
pull  back  on  the  strap,  which  will  cause  the  foot  to  be 
drawn  forward.  This  the  co't  will  resist  by  kicking,  but 
di-aw  tightly  on  the  strap,  and  hold  him  firmly  by  the  head; 
he  will  soon  find  resistance  useless,  and  will  let  you  handle 
it  as  you  wish.  Now  step  to  the  right  side  of  your  colt, 
and  proceed  as  on  the  left.  Remember  that  you  must  be 
firm,  yet  kind,  and  ever  willing  to  submit  to  him  when  he 
does  to  you,  but  never  lot  him  know  his  strength  compared 
with  your  own,  and  never  let  him  know  that  he  is  the 
strongest.  By  faithfully  pursuing  this  plan,  as  explained 
and  demonstrated  before  the  class,  I  am  confident  that 
you  will  meet  with  the  most  favorable  results.  Remember 
that  you  must   be  particular  and  persevering. 

TO  RIDE  A  COLT. 

You  have  gained  the  confidence  of  your  colt,  by  the  use 
of  your  whip  ;  now  be  very  careful  that  you  do  not  betray 
it,  for  if  very  wild  he  will  be  very  suspicious,  and  watch 
every  move  ;  therefore  it  is  v^ry  important  that  you  are  uni- 
form in  all  your  acts  and  words.  The  old  fashioned  plan 
of  riding  the  colt,  we  think,  very  wrong.  We  well  remem- 
ber of  attempting,  to  ride^  colt  under  the  diiections  of  an 
old  experienced  horseman.  We  were  placed  upon  the  colt's 
back  while  he  was  rearing  and  plunging,  and  the  next  mo- 
ment found  ourself  standing  on  our  head  in  the  snow,  some 
tliree  rods  from  the  colt,  and  after  making  several  useless 
attempts  to  mount  him  gave  it  up  as  a  bad  job ;  while,  by 
adopting  our  present  plan,  in  a  few  moments  the  colt  could 
have  been  ridden  with  perfect  safety,  just  where  we  wished 
to  go,  and  if  this  plan  is  faithfully  pursued,  we  are  sure 


ILLUSTEATED    GUIDE.  27 

that  any  colt  can  be  mounted  and  rode,  in  a  few  moments, 
witliout  incurring  the  risk  of  being  pitched  upon  your  head, 
and  teaching  your  colt  a  habit  that  will  be  dangerous  as 
well  as  very  unpleasant.  We  say  this  with  great  confidence, 
for  daring  nine  years,  experience  with  the  wildest  colts 
that  could  be  prodiiced,  it  has  never  failed  in  a  single  case. 
Before  you  attempt  to  monnt  a  colt  it  is  very  important 
that  you  teach  him  the  word  tvhoa,  which  we  claim  to  be 
the  most  important  word  in  liorsemanship  ;  and  if  you  wish 
your  horse  to  learn  and  obey  the  word,  he  must  first  learn 
the  meaning  of  it,  and  then  you  must  only  make  use  of  it 
when  you  wish  him  to  stop.  Never  use  the  word  wlioa  to  call 
your  horse's  attention,  in  the  stable,  as  many  persons  do, 
such  as,  "  ivhoa,  get  over ;  whoa,  lach  ;  whoa,  come  here,^^  etc. 
until  the  horse  gets  completely  confused  with  the'word,  and 
cannot  comprehend  your  meaning.  Hence  the  necessity  of 
being  uniform  in  word  and  act.  In  fact,  if  you  wish  your 
horse  to  understand  and  obey  you,  you  must  always  be  hon- 
est with  him — never  tell  him  what  you  do  not  mean — nev- 
er deceive  him  under  any  circumstances,  but  gain  his  con- 
fidence, and  never  betray  it.  We  would  just  as  soon  think 
of  betraying  the  confidence  of  our  brother  man  as  the 
horse  we  were  training.  In  teaching  your  horse  the  word 
whoa,  take  a  strap  six  or  eight  feet  in  length,  lay  it  across 
his  back  to  the  right  side,  fasten  to  the  ankle  of  the  right 
foot,  holding  the  strap  in  your  right  hand,  the  left  on  the 
halter  or  bridle;  now  lead  the  colt  a  few  steps  and  say, 
whoa,  at  the  same  time  pull  on  the  strap,  which  will  throw 
him  on  three  legs,  and  suddenly  bring  him  to  a  stop,  and 
in  a  very  short  time  teach  him  that  the  word  tvhoa  means 
to  stop.  After  educating  your  colt  thoroughly  in  this  man- 
ner, then  attempt  to  mount  him  by  placing  your  knee  on 


28  THE   HORSE   ©WNER's 

his  side,  just  back  of  the  forward  forearm,  and  draw  your- 
self gradually  to  his  back ;  if  he  should  attempt  to  move, 
pull  on  the  strap,  using  the  word  whoa,  and  he  will  soon 
think  more  of  his  foot  than  of  you,  for  he  cannot  think  of 
both  at  the  same  time,  as  it  is  impossible  for  a  horse  to 
think  of  two  things  at  once.  You  must  now  be  very  care- 
ful ;  do  not  try  to  work  fast,  and  do  not  be  in  a  hurry,  for 
you  will  frighten  him  with  your  quick,  hasty  moves.  If 
you  will  work  slowly  for  five  minutes,  you  will  be  on  his 
back,  and  he  will  show  no  disposition  to  dismount  you. 
We  feel  confident  in  our  success,  for  we  have  never  failed 
in  mounting  the  worst  that  could  be  brought  in  half  that 
time.  Move  slowly  and  carefully  until  you  get  your  right 
leg  over  his  back,  and  in  the  same  gentle  manner  get  into 
an  upright  position.  You  now  have  your  bridle  reins  in 
your  left  hand,  the  strap  in  your  right,  which  is  attached 
to  the  foot,  and  if  he  attempts  to  make  a  wrong  move  the 
word  whoa,  and  a  pull  at  the  strap,  will  make  all  right. 
Bear  in  mind,  however,  that  there  is  a  great  difference  in 
the  temper  and  intelligence  of  colts,  some  being  quick  to 
learn,  while  others  are  very  stupid.  Remember  that  the 
more  dull  and  stupid  the  subject,  the  more  need  of  patience 
and  perseverance,  always  bearing  in  mind  that  you  are  a 
man,  and  are  dealing  with  a  dumb  brute — that  if  you  are 
not  capable  of  controlling  yourself,  you  certainly  are  not 
capable  of  controlling  a  poor  dumb  brute.  Your  colt  will 
now  allow  you  to  mount  and  dismount  at  pleasure.  You 
cannot  expect  him  to  be  handy  to  the  rein  until  after  he  is 
properly  bitted,  which  is  the  next  step  with  the  colt. 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  29^^ 

HAIINESSIK"G  THE  COLT  FOR  THE  FIRST  TIME . 

If  the  colt  is  shy  about  allowing  you  to  put  on  the  har- 
ness, upon  backing  him  out  of  the  stall,  first  put  the  cord 
around  his  neck,  with  a  running  loop  in  his  mouth,  (same 
as  for  bitting),  and  give  him  a  sharp  pull  siJewise,  at  the 
same  time  repeat  the  word  whoa  ;  also  gently  pat  him  upon 
the  neck.  Now  lead  him  to  the  place  on  the  barn  floor 
where  you  wish  to  have  him  stand  while  harnessing,  and 
quietly  take  down  your  h^arness  from  the  pegs.  If  the  colt 
moves  from  his  position,  lay  down  your  harness  and  give, 
him  two  or  three  more  sharp  pulls  with  the  cord,  at  the 
same  time,  with  firmness,  repeating  the  word  whoa.  Do  not 
speak  too  loud ;  be  careful  in  pulling  him  around  not  to 
hurt  him.  A  few  pulls  with  the  cord,  patting  and  caressing 
about  the  neck  and  face,  frequently  repeating  the  word 
whoa,  will  so  quiet  him  that  you  will  have  no  farther 
trouble.  We  well  know  this  operation  requires  a  little 
time  and  patience.  When  the  harness  is  well  on,  take  it  off 
and  repeat  the  process,  until  he  will  allow  you  to  harness 
him  without  scringing.  In  bridling  the  colt  observe  the 
same  rules  with  cord  as  for  harnessing.  With  your  cord 
lead  him  around  the  yard  for  half  an  hour,  to  acquaint  him 
with  the  moving  of  straps  and  the  feeling  of  harness  in  his 
unaccustomed  position.  If  he  should  attempt  to  escape, 
one  pull  with  the  cord  will  bring  him  to  you  in  a  moment. 
After  a  little  time  you  may  commence  driving  him  with 
the  reins;  take  the  precaution  to  attach  your  webbing  to 
the  ankles  of  the  left  forward  foot ;  bring  it  back  between 
the  girth  and  body  of  the  colt ;  hold  it  in  your  hand  as  a 
third  rein.  If  he  should  attempt  to  ran,  pull  upon  your 
webbing;  take  his  left  foot  from  him;  that  leaves  him  on 
three  feet,  and  in  your  power,  at  the  same  time  repeating 


80  THE   HOESE   OWNER's 

the  word  whoa,  which  brings  him  to  a  stop.  A  lesson  of 
two  or  three  hours  each  day,  for  three  or  four  days,  turning 
him  in  different  directions,  to  stop  and  go  at  the  word,  im- 
pressing upon  his  mind  that  you  are  his  superior,  and  can 
control  him  at  pleasure,  and  he  is  ready  for  hitching  in  har- 
ness the  first  time. 

HITCHING  THE  COLT  TO  WAGON  THE  FIRST 
TIME. 

In  hitching  the  colt  to  wagon  the  first  time,  we  think  it 
a  far  better  and  safer  plan  to  hitch  him  in  double  harness, 
beside  a  well  broken  horse,  also  on  the  off  side, — -and  why  ? 
The  first  handling  your  colt  receives  has  been  mostly  upon 
the  near  side :  consequently,  he  being  on  the  off  side,  and 
the  broken  horse  on  the  near  side,  where  the  colt  has  re- 
ceived his  first  lesson,  he  would  not  be  as  apt  to  scringe 
as  he  would, be  to  place  the  broken  horse  on  the  off  side. 
Again  :  should  an  accident  occur,  to  cause  you  to  jump 
from  your  wagon,  it  would  be  more  natural  for  you  to 
jump  to  the  near  side,  and  in  stopping  your  team  it  is  more 
natural  to  get  out  on  the  near  side.  The  harness  being  on 
both  horses,  you  will  now  proceed  to  hitch  them  to  wagon. 
In  doing  this  it  will  be  necessary  to  have  some  one  to  assist 
you;  let  your  assistant  lead  the  broken  horse  to  the  near  side 
of  the  pole ;  next  place  your  colt  at  the  off  side ;  let  the  per- 
son helping  you,  hold  the  colt  by  the  head  while  you  are 
buckling  the  reins,  hitching  the  tugs,  and  placing  the  web- 
bing, or  long  line,  to  the  ankle  of  the  left  forward  foot. 
Perhaps  it  would  be  better  to  buckle  a  short  strap  around 
the  pastern,  with  ring  attached,  to  guard  against  chafing. 
To  be  more  fully  understood,  we  will  explain  how  it  is 
made  :  take  a  soft  leather  strap,  one  inch  and  a  half  wide, 
and  ten  inches  long,  with  the  inside  edges  shaved  thin ; 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE. 


31 


32  THE   HORSE   OWNER's 

9 

then  take  a  strip  of  firm  leather,  fifteen  inches  long  and  one 
inch  wide;  on  one  end  place  a  buckle  and  loop,  with  a  lap 
of  two  inches  on  the  under  side  ;  in  the  other  end  punch 
holes  for  the  buckle  tongue,  place  the  inch  strap  on  the 
outside  of  the  wide  strap,  in  the  center,  with  one  end  ex- 
tending one  inch  beyond  the  buckle  ;  then  stitch  the  two 
together,  commencing  at  the  buckle,  and  stitching  two  in- 
ches, having  the  loop  pretty  close  to  the  buckle,  then  slip 
a  one  and  a  half  inch  ring  over  the  outer  strap,  close  up  to 
the  stitching :  then  proceed  with  the  stitching  and  close 
up.  This  finishes  the  strap  which  is  to  buckle  around  the 
ankle  of  the  forward  foot.  A  strap,  or  webbing,  fifteen  feet 
in  lens^th,  is  buckled  or  tied  into  the  rino-  and  carried  back 
between  the  girth  and  body  of  the  colt,  and  back  into  the 
wagon,  holding  it  with  the  lines  in  your  hands.  See  Fig. 
7.  All  is  now  ready  ;  start  up  slowly,  stopping  occasionally, 
while  on  a  walk,  pronouncing  the  word  "whoa,"  at  the 
same  time  pulling  up  on  the  foot  strap.  You  will  at  once 
perceive  that  you  have  the  most  perfect  control  over  the 
colt's  movements.  Should  he  attempt  to  run,  catch  his 
foot  and  bring  him  to  a  stop ;  don't  halloo  at  the  top  of 
your  voice,  but  with  firmness  say  whoa.  You  may  thirjk 
your  colt  would  stumble  and  fall,  but  strange  as  it  may 
appear  to  you,  it  is  almost  impossible  when  in  that  posi- 
tion for  him  to  fall,  or  even  stumble,  while  in  motion.  The 
colt  being  unused  to  work,  it  will  be  necessary  to  give  him 
a  short  drive  the  first  time,  as  you  do  not  want  him  to  get 
leg-weary  and  become  sullen  ;  after  which  you  can  give  him 
short  and  lively  drives,  until  he  becomes  waywise,  and 
obeys  the  rein  and  word  quickly.  When  he  has  by  this 
means  become  accustomed  to  being  handled  without  scring- 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  33 

ing,  or  showing  signs  of  fear,  you  may  then  hitch  him  up 
single. 

HITCHING  THE  COLT  IN  SINGLE  HARNESS. 

Put  on  your  harness,  which  should  be  strong  in  every 
respect,  and  well  fitted  to  your  colt,  carefully ;  lead  him 
around  for  a  short  time,  until  he  becomes  familiar  with  the 
harness,  then  check  him,  quite  loosely  at  first.  Take  yout 
webbing,  or  the  strap  that  you  have  used  to  handle  his 
feet,  attach  one  end  to  the  ankle  of  the  right  forward  foot, 
carrying  it  back  through  between  the  belly-band  of  your 
harness  and  the  colt.  Now  take  your  reins  from  the  pad, 
and  you  have  three  reins,  two  to  his  head  and  one  to 
his  foot.  Now  drive  him  about  a  short  time  ;  when  you 
want  him  to  stop,  use  the  word  whoa,  and  take  his  foot. 
Now  place  the  w^eb  or  strap  between  his  hind  legs,  touch- 
ing him  gently  on  each  leg;  if  he  should  attempt  to  jump 
or  kick,  say  whoa,  pull  on  the  foot  strap,  then  gently  ap- 
proach him,  pat  and  caress,  to  let  him  know  that  you  are 
with  him,  and  that  he  has  done  right  in  stopping.  Contin- 
ue this  until  he  will  start  and  stop  at  the  word  ;  come  to  the 
right  or  left,  as  the  reins  indicate.  He  is  now  prepared  for 
the  wagon.  Do  not  be  tempted,  under  any  circumstances, 
to  use  an  old,  rotten  harness,  nor  to  hitch  your  colt  to  an 
old,  rotten,  rattling  wagon,  liable  to  give  way  on  the  first 
move  of  the  colt.  Many  valuable  colts  have  been  so  fright- 
ened through  such  carelessness  as  to  become  almost  useless. 

Make  everything  safe  and  sure,  as  safety  and  certainty 
should  be  your  motto. 

Before  you  hitch  your  colt  into  the  shafts,  lead  him 
around  the  wagon  or  sleigh,  and  let  him  examine  every 
part  of  it ;  then  back  him  into  the  shafts ;  stand  on  the  left 
side  of  your  colt ;  have  the  strap  or  webbing  attached  to 


34  THE   HORSE   OWNER's 

the  right  fore-foot,  and  over  the  back,  holding  it  constant- 
ly in  your  hand ;  now  gently  lift  the  shafts,  and  make  him 
fast ;  if  he  should  attempt  to  move,  the  word  whoa,  and  the 
use  of  the  foot  strap  would  quiet  him  ;  now  step  to  the 
right  side,  take  the  foot  strap,  pass  one  end  over  the  belly- 
band  of  the  harness,  and  carry  it  back  on  the  right  side  of 
the  wagon,  over  the  hold-back  strap,  using  that  as  a  third 
rein  in  your  hand.  You  see  now  that  you  are  all  safe.  If 
he  attempts  to  run,  pull  upon  this  strap,  which  instantly 
throws  him  on  three  legs,  therefore  he  is  obliged  to  stop  ; 
if  he  attempts  to  run  back,  the  same  remedy  stops  him ;  if 
he  attempts  to  kick,  call  his  attention  to  his  forward  foot 
instantly. 

Now  all  that  is  necessary  is  to  be  careful  and  use  a  little 
common  sense  in  teaching  your  colt  what  you  want  him  to 
do ;  in  a  very  short  time  you  have  a  colt  you  can  recom- 
mend as  properly  broken,  safe  and  kind  for  any  one  to 
drive,  which  is  almost  the  first  question  asked  by  the  pur- 
chaser. 

I  have  now  taken  you  through  the  whole  list  of  training 
your  colt,  and  I  hope  you  will  never  lose  sight  of  all  the 
important  principles  of  my  system  ;  Patience,  Perseverance 
and  Kindness,  with  a  good  share  of  Firmness ;  and  also  re- 
member that  colts  should  be  train&d  not  broken.  Train  a 
colt  in  the  way  he  should  go,  and  he  will  not  need  break- 
ing. Do  not  do  as  many  people  do,  let  their  colts  run  un- 
til they  are  four  or  five  years  old,  and  then  undertake  to 
break  them  in  the  old  fashioned  way ;  this  is  impracticable, 
for  you  as  often  break  their  constitutions,  their  courage, 
their  spirits,  and  sometimes  their  nechs.,  and  very  often  the 
breakers  themselves  get  hurt.  The  colt  should  be  taught 
step  by  step,  with  patience  and  perseverance,  what  you 


ILLUSTRATED    GUTDE.  35 

wish  him  to  do ;  not  driven  to  do  what  he  does  not  know — 
he  cannot  understand — while  smarting  under  the  lash. 

TEACHING  A  COLT  TO  BACK. 

Teaching  the  colt  to  back  is  the  next  operation,  and  is 
a  matter  of  great  importance,  as  the  future  value  of  your 
colt  depends  upon  his  being  thoroughly  broken.  It  should 
be  commenced  while  bitting  the  colt ;  and  before  you  ever 
attempt  to  harness  you  should  teach  him  to  back  prompt- 
ly at  the  word,  in  the  following  manner.  Have  on  bitting 
bridle,  stand  in  front  and  a  little  to  the  left  of  your  colt, 
your  left  hand  on  the  bridle,  in  your  right  a  little  spring 
top  whip ;  now  give  a  quick  pull  on  the  bridle,  at  the 
same  moment  a  light  blow  on  the  nose  with  your  whip, 
and  say,  "  back,  sir,"  ease  up  on  the  bridle,  your  whip  at 
your  right  side,  patting  and  caressing  on  the  neck  with 
your  right  hand ;  in  a  few  moments  try  it  again.  By  re- 
peating this  a  few  times  he  will  learn  what  you  mean  by 
saying  "  back,  sir." 

SUBDUIN-G  THE  COLT. 

The  plan  for  subjugating  wild  colts  and  vicious  horses 
has  been  experimented  upon  more  than  all  other  points  in 
horsemanship.  At  present  there  are  five  different  modes 
of  operating,  as  follows  :  Mr.  J.  S.  Rarey's  plan  of  strapping 
the  foot;  Messrs.  Rockwell  &  Hurlbut's  whirling  until  he 
staggers 'or  falls  to  the  ground;  Messrs.  D.  Magner  & 
Dudley  claim  to  have  an  improvement  upon  the  last  named 
by  tying  a  loop  in  the  end  of  his  tail,  taking  the  tie  strap 
of  the  halter,  passing  it  through  the  loop,  bringing  his  head 
to  his  side,  and  tying  it  fast  to  the  tail ;  he  then,  with  a  bow- 
top  whip,  steps  behind  the  horse,  cracks  him  sharp  in  the 
quarters,  and  keeps   him  whirling  until  he  falls.     Another 


86  THE   HOESE   OWNER's 

plan  as  introduced  by  Prof.  Hamilton,  is  to  procure  a  piece 
of  rein  webbing  ten  feet  in  length,  attach  one  end  to  the  an- 
kle of  the  left  forward  foot,  made  fast  with  a  timber  hitch, 
which  is  made  thus :  take  the  end  of  the  webbing,  carry  it 
to  the  inside  of  the  pastern,  bring  it  around  the  ankle  to 
the  outside,  thence  under  the  main  webbing  over  to  the 
outside  and  back  of  the  pastern,  then  pass  the  end  under 
and  up  through  between  the  ankle  and  webbing,  passing 
the  end  through  twice,  and  slipped  up  close  (a  knot  tied 
after  that  manner  cannot  slip  or  injure  the  pastern,  and 
will  also  untie  without  trouble.)  After  the  web  is  made 
fast  to  the  pastern  of  the  left  forward  foot,  the  other  end  is 
carried  through  under  the  chest,  and  over  the  horse's  back 
to  the  near  side  ;  a  half-inch  cord  is  now  tied  around  the 
horse's  neck,  about  midway  between  the  head  and  shoulder, 
a  running  loop  is  then  passed  through  between  the  neck 
and  cord,  carried  forward  and  looped  into  the  mouth.  He 
now  lifts  the  left  forward  foot,  takes  the  webbing  that  is 
brought  over  the  back  to  the  near  side,  draws  it  close, 
winds  the  webbing  around  his  right  hand,  and  presses  the 
knuckles  hard  on  the  left  side  of  the  back ;  with  the  left 
hand  reaches  to  the  off  side  of  the  horse's  neck,  grasps  the 
cord  that  is  looped  into  the  mouth,  and  carries  his  head 
against  his  right  shoulder.  After  moving  him  upon  three 
legs  for  a  little  time,  he  then  throws  him  upon  the  left  side. 
All  the  above  named  plans  may  answer  very  well,  but  we 
never  adopt  any  of  them,  except  with  the  green  colt.  In 
handling  a  wild  colt,  if  he  (at  times)  becomes  stubborn  and 
willful,  we  grasp  the  halter  with  the  left  hand,  with  the 
right  grasp  the  tail,  and  give  him  a  few  sharp  whirls  to  the 
left,  until  he  is  somewhat  dizzy ;  we  then  slip  to  the  oppo- 
site side,  with  the  right  hand  grasp  the  nosepiece  of  the 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  37 

halter,  witli  the  left,  the  tail,  and  give  him  a  few  sharp 
turns  to  the  right ;  if  he  is  rather  sullen  and  refuses  to 
move,  with  your  left  boot  give  him  a  few  kicks  across  the 
quarter  that  will  give  him  a  start,  after  which  you  can 
whirl  him  either  way  as  fast  as  you  like.  This  will  have  a 
good  effect  upon  a  wild  colt  that  has  acquired  no  vicious 
habits ;  but  for  the  old  horse  I  use  my  surcingle :  study 
and  fully  understand  its  use,  and  you  will  not  fail  to  bring 
them  to  an  unconditional  surrender.  Read  carefully  the 
next  point  in  order,  and  its  use  will  be  fully  explained. 


DIMENSIONS  OP  SURCINGLE. 

(See  Fig.  2) 

Length,  seven  feet;  width,  two  and  a  half  inches,  with 
thirteen  rings  attached,  as  follows  :  The  first  ring  is  four 
inches  from  the  buckle,  on  the  front  edge  ;  the  second,  three 
inches  from  the  first,  on  the  back  edge,  slanting  from  the 
buckle;  the  third  is  a  D  ring,  five  inches  from  the  second, 
the  fourth  is  six  incnes  from  the  third,  on  the  back  edge; 
which  comes  directly  under  the  chest;  the  fifth  is  a  D  ring, 
five  inches  from  the  fourth ;  the  sixth  is  a  D  ring,  four  in- 
ches from  the  fifth;  the  seventh  is  four  inches  from  the 
sixth,  on  the  front  edge  ;  the  eighth  is  five  inches  from  the 
seventh,  on  the  front  edge ;  the  ninth  is  three  inches  from  the 
eighth,  on  the  back  edge,  slanting  towards  the  buckle ;  the 
tenth  is  a  D  ring,  ten  inches  from  the  ninth ;  the  eleventh 
is  five  inches  from  the  tenth  on  the  back  edge,  slanting  to- 
wards the  buckle;  the  twelfth  is  a  D  ring,  five  inches  from 
the  eleventh ;  the  thirteenth  is  three  inches  from  the 
twelfth,  slanting  from  the  buckle. 


38  THE   HORSE   OWNER's 


CASTRATITiTG. 


The  plan  usually  adopted  for  throwing  and  castrating 
the  colt  has  been  attended  with  more  or  less  danger,  time 
and  trouble.  The  operator  has  prepared  a  rope  about  one 
inch  and  a  half  in  diameter,  and  some  twenty  feet  in 
length.  In  the  centre  is  made  a  loop,  which  is  slipped 
over  his  head  and  neck  down  to  the  shoulders,  the  ends 
carried  back  and  around  the  ankles  of  the  hind  feet.  One 
man  is  placed  on  each  side  of  the  colt,  holding  the  ends  of 
said  rope ;  the  third  man  at  his  head.  The  two  men  hold- 
ing the  ends  of  the  rope,  pull,  while  the  man  at  his  head 
endeavors  to  back  him.  After  some  severe  struggling,  he 
is  thrown  back  upon  his  haunches.  I  must  say  the  plan 
is  not  only  cruel,  but  attended  with  a  great  amount  of  dan- 
ger;  the  colt  does  not  recover  from  his  injuries  for  some 
time.  Two  valuable  colts  to  our  certain  knowledge,  were 
rendered  worthless  by  the  use  of  the  above  mentioned  step 
in  throwing  them ;  one  had  his  thigh  broken,  the  other  was 
so  injured  across  the  loin  that  he  became  useless.  By  the  use 
of  the  surcingle,  as  described  on  a  previous  page,  any  boy 
fifteen  years  of  age  can  lay  down  a  horse  easily,  and  place 
him  in  any  position  for  performing  surgical  operations  of 
any  kind,  without  the  assistance  of  any  one.  In  sections 
where  I  travel  in  the  spring  season,  colts  are  sent  to  me 
daily  to  be  castrated,  and  not  in  a  single  case,  have  I  occu- 
pied more  than  ten  minutes  in  performing  the  opr^ration, 
without  any  assistance.  By  the  use  of  the  surcingle  it  can 
be  accomplished  in  ten  minutes  (alone),  easier  than  adopt 
the  old  fashion  way,  with  half  a  dozen  assistants. 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  39 

HOW  TO  DRIVE  A  KICKING  HOUSE. 

I  will  now  commence  with  the  old  bad  horse's  harness 
trick.  I  have  very  often  remarked  that  ninety-nine  out 
of  every  hundred  vicious  horses  in  harness,  are  horses  with 
ungovernable  mouths.  If  we  govern  the  mouth,  we  shall 
in  almost  every  instance,  have  a  controllable  horse.  I  will 
ask,  did  the  reader  ever  see  a  balky,  kicking,  bolting, 
plunging,  runaway  horse,  with  a  fine,  easy,  governable 
mouth  ?  I  never  have;  therefore  I  always  give  the  vicious 
horse  a  thorough  training  with  the  bitting  cord  before 
hitching  up  ;  in  a  short  time  he  will  learn  to  yield  the 
mouth  readily  to  the  pressure  of  the  bit,  after  he  has  been 
thoroughly  trained  with  the  cord.  I  wish  to  convince  him 
beyond  a  question,  that  I  have  the  power  to  handle  him 
just  as  I  wish,  and  will  just  say  that  I  consider  it  necessa- 
ry to  handle  all  horses  in  a  manner  to  convince  them  that 
they  can  be  controlled  :  let  your  lessons  be  thorough,  but 
not  very  long  ;  be  gentle  and  patient  with  the  colt,  but 
make  the  old,  stubborn  and  vicious  horse  feel  the  extent 
of  your  power  until  he  submits ;  then  repeat  until  he  yields 
unconditional  submission;  then  be  gentle  and  kind,  yet 
firm  in  your  treatment  afterwards. 

After  testing  all  other  plans  that  have  been  brought  be- 
fore the  public,  I  must  say  that  my  present  system  for 
handling  a  vicious  horse,  to  subdue  him,  or  for  performing 
surgical  operations,  is  far  ahead  of  anything  ever  made 
public;  and  if  I  had  retired  from  the  business  of  teaching 
Horsemanship,  I  would  not  be  deprived  of  the  use  of  this 
one  point  for  ten  times  its  cost.  The  first  step  in  the  man- 
agement of  a  bad  horse,  is  to  show  him  that  his  willfulness 


40 


THE   HORSE   OWNEe's 


ILLUSTRATED     GUIDE.  41 

must  yield  to  superior  power.  This  you  can  do  best  with 
the  use  of  my  surcingle. 

It  must  be  remembered  this  is  a  vice  foremost  in  point 
of  dano^er.     A  vicious  kickinsJ^  horse  is  more    dano^erous 

o  o  o 

than  one  possessing  any  other  vice.  If  your  horse  is  a 
little  nervous,  lay  him  down  with  your  surcingle,  and 
gently  harness  him  as  though  he  were  ever  so  kind.  Then 
put  on  the  Eureka  Safety  Bridle,  as  demonstrated  before 
the  class.  Your  horse  is  in  just  the  right  position.  Have 
no  fear,  for  you  can  drive  any  kicking  or  runaway  horse 
with  it  anywhere  you  please.  If  he  attempts  to  raise  his 
quarters,  he  throws  his  head  violently  into  the  air,  and 
can  do  no  harm ;  it  has  a  peculiar  advantage  over  him, 
for  it  does  not  hinder  the  traveling,  as  there  is  nothing 
attached  to  his  feet,  and  all  you  have  to  attend  to  is  your 
lines.  Drive  him  in  that  manner  for  a  few  days,  after 
which  remove  it,  and  your  horse  is  effectually  broken  of 
the  vice.     (See  Fig.  8;) 

HOW  TO  HATf  DLE  A  KIOKIITa   HORSE  IN 
DOUBLE  HARlNrESS. 

In  handling  a  kicking  horse  in  double  harness  you  can 
virtually  adopt  the  same  plan  as  recommended  in  single 
harness.  Hitch  him  to  pole  by  the  side  of  a  well  broken 
horse ;  procure  a  heavy  wagon  shaft,  with  a  bow  at  the 
butt,  the  same  as  for  a  carriage.  Step  to  the  side  of  your 
horse,  pass  the  small  end  through  the  tug-strap  (as  in 
single  harness)  turning  it  sidewise,  then  carry  the  point 
of  the  crooked  end  under  the  end  of  the  evener,  leaving 
a  lap  of  some  four  inches,  and  make  fast  with  two  half- 
inch  bolts,  bend  projecting  outward,  after  which  procure 
a  strap  four  and  a  half  or  five  feet  long  (according  to  size 


.-^  THE   HORSE   OWNER  S 

of  horses),  one  inch  and  a  half  wide,  with  billet  buckle 
and  loop  attached  to  each  end,  the  same  as  your  reins  are 
buckled  into  the  ring  of  the  bits.  One  end  of  this  strap 
is  buckled  around  the  false  shaft,  where  it  passes  through 
the  tug-strap  of  the  harness  of  the  kicking  horse  ;  the 
other  end  is  passed  through  and  under  the  chest  of  each 
horsCj  just  back  of  the  forward  legs,  and  buckled  into  the 
outside  tug-buckle  of  the  opposite  horse.  That  is  to  pre- 
vent the  shaft  from  rising  when  the  horse  attempts  to 
kick.  Now  place  your  bridle  upon  the  horse's  head,  as 
recommended  in  single  harness;  bring  the  ends  back, 
and  pass  them  through  the  ring  made  fast  on  the  top  of 
the  liips ;  on  one  side  bring  one  of  the  cords  down  across 
the  hip,  and  make  it  fast  to  the  pole  ;  the  other  end  over 
the  hip  and  make  fast  to  the  false  shaft.  He  is  now  in 
almost  the  same  position  as  when  between  the  single  shafts. 
The  strap  under  the  chest  prevents  the  shaft  from  rising, 
should  he  attempt  to  kick — also  the  horses  from  spreading. 
I  have  another  plan  of  working  a  kicking  horse  in  double 
harness,  and  why  I  do  not  recommend  it  in  all  cases  is 
because  the  operator  is  apt  to  get  careless,  and  neglect  to 
watch  closely  the  moves  of  the  horse.  The  operator  can 
always  tell,  by  watching  him  closely,  when  he  is  pre- 
mcilitating  a  vicious  move  :  a  little  scringing,  dropping 
of  the  ear,  frisking  of  the  tail,  hogging  down  on  the  bit 
with  a  sudden  start,  all  indicate  something  wrong.  Con- 
sequently,' you  see  it  is  highly  necessary  to  watch  his 
moves  closely.  The  plan  we  were  about  to  speak  of  is  as 
follows :  and  our  experience  in  handling  horses  warrants 
us  in  recommending  it  as  a  good  one :  Hitch  your  kick- 
er by  the  side  of  a  well  broken  horse,  procure  a  strong 
half  inch  cord  fifteen  or  eighteen  feet  in  length,  pass   it 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  43 

around  the  horse's  neck,  get  the  size,  tie  your  bowline 
knot,  and  slip  it  over  the  head  well  down  toward  the 
shoulder;  then  take  hold  of  the  cord  below,  pass  it  through 
the  loop,  between  the  neck  and  cord,  and  place  the  run- 
ning loop  into  his  mouth,  just  as  for  bitting  ;  then  at- 
tach the  long  foot  strap  to  the  ankle  of  the  inside  forward 
foot,  carry  the  other  end  back  between  the  girth  and  body, 
into  the  wagon  ;  also  your  cord.  Get  some  friend  to  ride 
with  you  the  first  time,  he  driving  the  team,  you  handling 
the  cord  and  foot  strap.  If  the  horse  attemps  to  kick,  take  his 
foot  from  him — give  him  a  sudden  pull  with  the  cord.  We 
have  broken  some  of  the  worst  kind  in  a  very  few  days  by 
adopting  this  plan.  You  have  a  powerful  controlling  influ- 
ence over  them,  as  they  can  neither  run  nor  kick.     Try  it. 

HOW  TO  USE  A  BALKY  HOUSE. 

If  ever  we  felt  that  the  horse  deserved  the  philanthropic 
sympathy  of  man,  it  has  been  when  we  have  seen  a  man, 
ignorant  and  brutal  in  his  own  nature,  trying  to  move  a 
balky  horse.  We  shall  have  been  amply  repaid,  and  shall 
have  certainly  given  every  one  who  buys  this  book  a  rich 
equivalent  for  his  money,  if  you  are  led  to  a  more  civilized 
mode  of  treatment  by  its  perusal.  We  are  to  remember 
that  balking  is  an  acquired  habit,  and  not  from  any  disincli- 
nation on  his  part  to  pull.  We  know  that  some  men  will 
take  the  very  best  pulling  horse,  and  in  a  short  time  make 
him  balky,  simply  from  mis-management.  It  is  not  the  dull, 
indolent  horse  which  balks,  but  the  high-spirited  and  fiery 
horse  of  blood  and  mettle  ;  this  is  so,  because  those  who 
undertake  to  drive  them  do  not  understand  them.  Notice 
which  horse  of  a  team  it  is  that  balks,  and  you  will  find  it 
to  be  the  one  of  the  highest  mettle.  He  hears  the  com- 
mand to  go,  and,  being  more  ready  to  obey  than  the  other, 


44  THE   HORSE   OWNER'S 

he  springs  off ;  but  not  being  able  to  start  the  wagon,  he 
is  thrown  back  on  his  haunches,  stopping  the  other  as  well 
as  himself.  The  driver  whoops  and  snaps  his  whip,  and  by 
the  time  the  slower  horse  has  started,  the  free  horse  has 
made  another  effort,  failed,  and  now  both  are  balked.  Both 
horses  recoa^nize  that  something?  is  wronof,  and  neither 
knows  what.  They  are  alike  afraid  to  move.  Then  the 
driver  plies  the  whip,  whoops  and  slaps  the  lines,  all  of 
which  only  tends  to  make  the  matter  worse.  This  has  been 
seen  by  almost  every  person.  The  horse  was  willing  to  go, 
but  did  not  know  how  to  move  the  load;  and  we  ask  any 
sensible  man  to  tell  us  if  the  horse  should  be  beaten  for 
not  doing  that  which  he  did  not  know  how  to  do  ?  You 
can  make  a  horse  do  almost  anything  which  he  can  fully 
understand  ;  and  we  do  contend  that,  by  proper  education 
any  balking  horse  can  be  started  in  a  few  minutes.  Some 
have  adopted  the  plan  of  buckling  a  strap  to  the  ankle  of 
one  forward  foot,  standing  in  front,  and  pulling  the  foot  for- 
ward, so  that  the  collar  presses  against  his  shoulder,  and 
thus  causing  him  to  move.  Others  have  adopted  the  plan 
of  throwing  a  handful  of  sand  in  his  eyes,  but  to  this  plan, 
though  it  succeeds,  we  are  bitterly  opposed.  We  would 
sooner  own  a  balky  than  a  blind  horse. 

If  you  get  hold  of  a  horse  that  has  been  long  in  the 
habit  of  balking,  just  set  apart  a  day  for  his  education. 
Go  into  some  pasture  or  field,  hitch  your  horse  to  a  light 
load,  which  he  can  move  easily.  If  he  refuses  to  pu44, 
get  a  half  inch  cord  ten  feet  in  length,  tie  it  around  his 
neck  and  loop  it  forward  into  his  mouth.  Step  to  one  side> 
give  him  a  sudden  pull  and  he  will  move  a  step  towards 
you.  Step  to  the  opposite  side  and  give  him  another  sudden 
pull ;  by  repeating  this  ten  or  twelve  times  he  will  start  wil- 


ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE.  45 

lingly.  Then  increase  your  load,  and  if  he  refuses  to  pull 
use  the  cord  as  above.  We  have  seen  the  worst  of  balky 
horses  in  three  hours  time  made  perfectly  kind — to  pull  in 
any  spot  or  place.  The  plan  is  simple.  And  why  is  it  so 
effectual  ?  there  is  nothing  you  can  place  in  a  horse's  mouth 
by  which  you  can  control  him  with  such  ease.  The  cord 
is  placed  around  his  neck,  and  brought  forward  into  his 
mouth,  and  by  a  sudden  pull  with  the  other  end  it  is  drawn 
suddenly  across  his  tongue,  comes  in  contact  with  the 
nerve  of  his  lower  jaw,  which  he  cannot  long  endure,  and 
he  willingly  moves  off.  If,  at  any  future  time,  he  should 
show  any  symptoms  of  balking,  a  lesson  with  the  cord  is 
all  that  is  necessary. 

HARD  PULLERS. 

(See  Fig.  9.) 
It  is  often  remarked,  and  by  horsemen,  too,  if  you  have 
a  hard  puller  upon  the  bit,  give  him  all  the  road  he  wants, 
and  let  him  go.  If  he  goes  too  fast  jerk  him  up,  first  with 
one  line,  then  with  the  other.  I  have  known  some  hard  pull- 
ers, which,  by  giving  them  the  -  rein  and  all  the  road  they 
wanted,  would  run  until  they  would  fall,  and  repeat  the  same 
thing  day  after  day.  The  idea  is  perfectly  absurd  ;  it  will 
amount  to  nothing  but  a  broken  down  constitution.  Let 
me  speak  of  a  simple  plan  by  which  you  can  control  such 
horses  at  pleasure.  Get  a  common  snaffle  bit,  around  which 
weld  two  iron  rings  one  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter ;  the 
bit  is  now  placed  in  the  horse's  mouth,  with  rings  slipped 
close  to  the  cheek  bars  ;  get  a  half  inch  strap,  ten  inches 
in  length,  with  billet  buckle  and  loop  attached  to  each  end 
the  same  as  for  buckling  check-reins  in  bits ;  now  place  it 
across  the  horse's  nose,  and  buckle  each  end  into  the  rings 


46 


THE   HORSE   OWNEK'S 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  47 

that  are  welded  around  the  bit.  That  brings  the  rings 
very  close  each  side  of  the  upper  jaw;  stitch  to  the  center 
of  tlie  strap  across  the  nose  one  end  of  another  half  inch 
strap  eighteen  inches  long ;  to  the  other  end  attach  the 
buckle  on  the  top  of  the  bridle,  and  between  the  ears. 
This  is  to  keep  the  nose  piece  from  dropping  over  the  nos- 
tril. The  bit  is  now  arranged.  Place  your  horse  between 
your  shafts ;  buckle  your  reins  and  start  him  along.  Drive 
him  with  a  slack  rein  as  long  as  he  is  quiet ;  if  he  attempts 
to  go  very  fast,  pull  upon  the  lines.  As  you  pull,  the  rings 
around  the  bit  crowd  with  more  force  against  the  sides  of 
the  face,  throwing  his  mouth  wide  open,  and  causing  the 
most  excruciating  pain.  Drive  him  a  few  days  with  a  bit 
so  arranged,  and  after  that  any  boy  twelve  years  of  age  can 
drive  him  with  perfect  ease. 


TOWGUE  OVER  THE  BIT. 

Attach  to  your  bridle  a  check  bit,  as  follows  :  procure  a 
small  steel  baj  bit ,  a  small  one,  so  that  the  check  bars  will 
sit  close  to  each  side  of  the  horse's  face.  To  this  bit,  buckle 
checks  and  check  pieces  of  bridle  ;  through  this  bit,  drill 
two  holes,  leaving  a  space  between,  and  in  the  centre,  of 
two  inches  and  a  half;  get  a  thick  piece  of  harness  leather  six 
inches  long ;  cut  it  in  the  form  of  a  diamond,  two  and  a 
half  inches  wide,  with  ends  rounded  off  to  a  point,  ^he 
centre  of  this  piece  of  leather  is  doubled  over  the  bit,  with 
edges  just  covering  the  two  holes;  it  is  now  stitched  to- 
gether across,  and  close  to  the  bit ;  the  edges  of  the  points 
are  also  stitched  firmly  together,  and  as  the  bit  is  placed 
in  the  mouth,  the  rounded  points  of  the  leather  run  back 


48  THE   HORSE   OWNER's 

into  the  horse's  mouth  and  top  of  the  tongue.  He  is  now 
checked  up  and  the  bit  kept  snug  in  his  mouth ;  your  reins 
are  not  to  be  buckled  to  this  check-bit,  but  another  is  used 
for  driving.  Get  a  common  snaffle-bit.  This  is  made  fast 
to  the  check-pieces  of  the  bridle  with  a  couple  of  small,  half- 
inch  straps,  five  inches  long,  with  buckle  and  loop  attached, 
letting  it  hang  in  the  mouth,  one  inch  below  the  check 
bit ;  to  this  attach  your  reins.  You  now  have  a  driving 
as  well  as  a  check  bit.  If  the  horse  attempts  to  work  his 
tongue  over  the  bit,  the  piece  of  leather  so  attached  will 
prevent  him  at  once.  Should  he  (as  is  seldom  the  case) 
carry  his  tongue  under  the  bit  and  out  of  the  mouth,  to  the 
holes  drilled  through  the  bit,  attach  a  piece  of  large  wire, 
passing  the  ends  through ;  let  the  center  drop  one-half 
inch  below,  same  as  a  wide  wire  staple.  When  you  put 
the  bit  in  his  mouth,  pull  his  tongue  through  the  loop, 
seeing  that  the  space  is  large  enough  for  it  to  sit  easy. 
These  plans  will  soon  break  a  horse  of  this  bad  habit. 

A  RUNAWAY,  BOLTING,  OR  PLUNGING 
HORSE. 

This  is  a  very  dangerous  vice,  one  accompanied  with  a 
great  amount  of  danger  to  limb  and  life.  If  the  horse, 
when  making  an  effort  to  run,  becomes  very  wild  and 
desperate,  and  in  bolting  woiitd  jump  off  some  bridge  or 
precipice,  it  is  highly  necessary  to  have  some  means  of 
controlling  him,  and  to  bring  him  to  a  sudden  stop.  To 
accomplish  this,  use  the  cord  with  sm'all  loop  placed 
around  the  under  jaw  of  the  horse  ;  the  other  end  is 
carried  over  his  neck,  brought  back,  and  passed  through 
.  the  small  loop   attached  to   the   under  jaw,  and   thence 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  49 

back  into  the  wagon.  The  running  loop,  over  the  horse's 
neck,  should  be  kept  well  back  to  his  shoulder.  Now 
prepare  two  long  foot  straps,  and  attach  the  end  with 
short  straps  to  the  ankle  of  each  forward  foot.  The  othet 
ends  pass  through  between  the  girth  and  body  of  the 
horse,  outside  of  the  traces  and  into  the  wagon.  Hold 
your  long  foot  straps  and  cord  in  your  hand  with  the 
reins,  then  drive  him  along  in  places  where  he  would  be 
most  apt  to  scare.  If  he  attempts  to  run  or  bolt,  give 
him  a  strong  pull  with  the  cord,  at  the  same  time  saying 
(with  firmness)  "  what  are  you  doing,  sir  ?  go  'long." 
That  may  cause  him  to  straighten  up,  and  perhaps  give 
him  a  sudden  start;  if  so,  give  him  another  pull,  and 
say,  "  carefully,  sir!"  If  the  second  pull  does  not  check 
his  speed,  and  you  think  he  may  get  the  best  of  you,  then 
is  the  time  to  pull  on  the  foot  straps;  take  his  feet  from 
him,  and  drop  him  to  his  knees,  pronouncing  the  word, 
"  whoa."  That  brings  him  to  a  stop  without  any  failure. 
Now  ease  up  on  your  foot  straps ;  do  not  hold  him  by 
the  feet  after  dropping  him  to  his  knees,  for  in  so  doing 
he  would  be  likely  to  struggle,  fall  over,  and  perhaps 
break  your  shafts.  Again  start  him;  if  he  attempts  the 
same  move,  take  his  feet  and  bring  him  to  a  stop.  He 
will  not  attempt  the  same  move  but  a  few  times.  There 
is  nothing  that  will  so  frighten  a  horse,  as  to  think  he 
is  going  to  be  pitched  on  his  head.  The  plan  will  effect- 
ually conquer  and  subdue  that  willful  disposition.  After 
driving  him  a  few  times  with  both  webs,  you  may  then 
feel  safe  to  drive  him  with  one.  Every  few  days  repeat 
the  lesson  with  cord,  and  one  long  foot  strap ;  a  lesson 
each  day  for  a  few  days,  will  produce  the  desired  result. 
The  same  plan  is  adopted  with  colts  that  are  in  the  habit 


50  THE   HORSE   OWNEE's 

of  running,  and  kicking  at  dogs,  hogs,  pieces  of  paper  fly- 
ing in  the  street,  and  the  like.  They  are  constantly 
on  the  lookout  for  such  objects,  and  the  driver  or  owner 
is  never  safe.  Place  the  cord  as  recommended  above,  into 
the  month,  and  the  webbing  to  the  foot,  or  both  if  neces- 
sary ;  for  my  experience  in  handling  horses  has  convinced 
me  that  some  horses  have  the  strength  and  will  to  run  a 
fourth  of  a  mile  on  three  feet.  That  is  the  reason  why 
(in  some  cases)  I  use  the  long  strap  attached  to  both  feet. 
In  that  case  you  disconcert  them  at  once.  If  the  colt  is 
very  headstrong,  when  frightened,  place  the  webbing  to  both 
forward  feet,  and  the  cord  in  the  mouth.  Also  with  open 
bridle,  so  he  can  see  all  around  him.  Take  a  dog  into  the 
wagon  with  you.  As  you  are  driving  quietly  along,  toss 
the  dog  out  on  the  same  side  you  are  driving  your  colt, 
If  he  attempts  to  kick  and  run,  give  him  a  sudden  pull 
with  the  cord,  at  the  same  time  take  his  feet  from  him 
saying,  whoa.  Get  out,  pat  and  caress  him,  then  repeat  it 
again.  A  few  lessons  will  break  him.  Drive  him  with 
the  Eureka  Safety  Bridle. 

DRIVING  ONE  REIW. 

Even  the  angles  of  the  mouth  with  the  bitting  cord, 
then  keep  the  blinders  up  so  that  he  cannot  see  the  driver, 
for  this  is  often  the  cause — he  is  often  watching  back  with 
one  eye,  and  carrying  his  head  to  that  side,  constantly 
pulling  upon  the  opposite  rein.  Oftentimes  it  is  caused  by 
the  grinders  being  sharp  ;  in  such  cases,  file  them  off. 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE. 


5i 


HOW  TO  BREAK  A  HALTER  PULLER. 

Always  use  a  leather  halter,  and  be  sure  to  have  it 
made  so  that  it  will  not  draw  tight  around  the  nose ;  if 
he  pulls  on  it,  it  should  be  of  the  right  size  to  fit  his  head 
easily  and  nicely,  so  that  the  nose  band  will,  not  be  too 
tight  nor  too  low.  Never  put  a  rope  halter  on  an  unbroken 
colt,  or  a  horse  that  is  in  the  habit  of  pulling  at  the  halter 
under  any  circumstances  whatever.  They  have  caused 
more  horses  to  hurt  or  kill  themselves  than  would  pay  for 
twice  the  cost  of  all  the  leather  halters  that  ever  were 
needed  for  the  purpose  of  haltering  colts.  It  is  almost 
impossible  to  break  a  horse  of  the  vice  with  a  rope 
halter.  He  will  pull,  rear  and  throw  himself,  and 
thus  endanger  his  life.  And  we  will  tell  you  why.  It  is 
just  as  natural  for  a  horse  to  try  to  get  his  head  out  of 
anything  that  hurts  it,  or  feels  unpleasant,  as  it  would 
be  for  you  to  try  to  get  your  hand  out  of  a  fire.  The 
cords  of  the  rope  are  hard  and  cutting ;  this  makes  him 
raise  his  head,  and  draw  on  it;  and  as  soon  as  he  pulls, 
the  slip-noose  (the  way  the  rope  halters  are  always  made) 
tightens  and  pinches  his  nose,  and  then  he  will  struggle 
for  life.  Who  would  run  the  risk  of  a  fine  horse's  break- 
ing his  neck  rather  than  pay  the  price  of  a  leather 
halter  ?  If  you  have  a  horse  that,  from  mismanagement^ 
has  acquired  the  habit  of  pulling  at  the  halter,  place 
your  leather  halter  on  his  head ;  have  the  strap  you  hitch 
him  with  twenty  feet  in  length.  You  may  hitch  him 
in  a  stall,  or  to  a  post  outside,  or  in  any  place  where  he  is 
in  the  habit  of  pulling.  If  in  a  stall,  run  the  end  of  your 
rein  through  the  hole  in  the  manger,  then  back  through 
the  ring  of  the  halter ;  and  as  you  pull  it  through  the 
ring  bring  his  head  within  two  feet  of  the  manger,  then 


52  THE   HORSE   OWNER's 

between  his  forward  legs,  and  make  fast  to  the  ankle  of 
his  left  fore  foot.  We  think  you  can  see  clearly  there  is 
no  possible  chance  for  him  to  break  his  halter,  nor  to  get 
loose.  If  he  makes  an  attempt  to  pull  back  he  brings 
his  left  hind  foot  forward  under  the  body,  is  fearful  he 
will  fall,  and  steps  forward  in  a  moment.  After  he  has 
made  the  attempt  to  break  his  halter  three  or  four  times, 
you  may  take  any  object,  however  frightful,  and  hold  it 
in  a  position  to  frighten  him,  and  he  will  not  make  an 
effort  to  pull  back.  We  have  seen  the  worst  of  the  kind 
effectually  broken  of  the  vice  in  thirty  minutes. 

ANOTHER  AND  BETTER  PLAN  FOR  BREAKING 
A  HALTER-PULLER. 

Lead  your  horse  to  a  place  most  convenient  for  hitch- 
ing him.  It  don't  matter  whether  to  a  post,  in  the  stall,  or 
elsewhere.  Place  a  common  strap  halter  upon  his  head, 
then  procure  a  piece  of  rein  webbing  fifteen  feet  in  length, 
or  a  strap  one  and  a  fourth  inches  wide,  of  the  same  length  ; 
get  the  centre  of  said  webbing  or  strap.  Now  buckle  a 
common  web  surcingle  around  his  body,  just  back  of  the 
shoulder,  then  lay  your  webbing  across  his  hips,  carry  one 
end  forward  between  the  surcingle  and  body,  on  the  left 
side,  the  opposite  end  between  the  surcingle  and  body,  on 
the  off  side  of  the  colt  the  center  rests  across  his  hips,  the 
ends  carried  forward.  Take  the  centre  of  the  webbing  in  your 
right  hand,  give  it  one  turn  over,  which  leaves  it  crossed 
upon  his  hips  :  carry  the  centre  and  pass  his  tail  through 
the  loop  you  made  by  turning  the  centre  of  the  webbing 
over,  the  same  as  cruppering  with  harness.  Step  forward, 
reach  your  left  hand  through  under  the  horse's  neck,  take 
hold  of  the  end  of  the  webbing  on  the  off  side ;  with  your . 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  53 

right  hand  take  the  end  on  the  left  side,  bring  the  two 
ends  together  under  the  neck,  and  tie  them  around  the 
chest.  Then  carry  the  end  of  your  tie  strap  through  the 
ring  in  the  manger,  or  some  point  where  he  has  been  in  the 
habit  of  pulling;  bring  back  and  make  fast  to  the  web- 
ing  that  passes  around  the  chest.  Your  halter-puller 
is  now  in  the  right  position ;  if  he  refuses  to  pull,  induce 
him  to  do  so  by  frightening  him  in  some  manner.  My 
experience  with  halter-pullers  warrants  me  in  saying  this 
plan  is  lasting  and  effectual.  You  can  hitch  him  in  the 
stall  and  let  him  remain  in  that  position  through  the  night. 
He  can  lie  down,  get  up,  and  move  around  the  stall  with- 
out injuring  himself  in  any  way.  Hitch  him  each  day 
at  different  points  where  he  has  been  in  the  habit  of  pull- 
ing, after  which  you  need  have  no  fears  of  his  breaking 
a  common  halter.     (See  Fig.  10.) 

GETTING  CAST  IN  THE  STALL. 

If  there  is  anything  that  will  vex  aad  irritate  the  pro- 
prietor of  a  stable,  it  is  to  have  some  one  of  his  horses 
getting  cast  in  the  stall.  Every  night  a  thundering  noise 
is  heard  and  some  one  calls  out,  "  you  have  a  horse  cast." 
Up  he  gets,  hurries  to  the  stable,  and  with  a  great  deal  of 
hard  "labor  they  finally  succeed  in  getting  the  horse  to  his 
feet,  stiif,  and  badly  galled.  Observe  the  following,  and 
you  will  have  no  such  trouble.  Place  on  your  horse  a  five 
ring  stiap  halter;  (a  five  ring  halter  he  cannot  slip) 
where  the  strap  comes  over  the  head,  just  back  of  the  ears, 
attach  a  one  and  a-half  inch  ring;  do  not  slip  the  top 
piece  through  the  ring;  you  must  make  it  fast,  so  it  will 
not  slip  to  the  right  nor  to  the  left;  get  a  strap  four  inch- 
es long,  one  inch  and  a  quarter  wide ;    set  your  ring  iu 


54 


THE   HOESE   OWNER's 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE,  55 

the  center  of  the  strap  that  comes  over  the  top  of  his  head ; 
then  run  the  four  inch  strap  through  the  ring,  stitching 
both  ends,  leaving  the  ring  fast  in  the  centre  ;  with  the 
tie  strap  of  your  halter  make  fast  to  the  ring  of  the  man- 
ger, leaving  sufficient  length  to  put  his  nose  within  one  foot 
of  the  floor.  Over  his  head,  Jand  in  the  floor  above,  at- 
tach a  staple  and  ring ;  then  put  his  nose  within  one  foot 
of  the  floor,  and  get  the  distance  from  the  ri-ag  in  the  top 
of  the  halter  to  the  ring  in  the  staple  above,  about  a  foot 
back  from  the  manger.  Tlfe  horse  has  the  liberty  to  lie 
down,  but  cannot  lay  his  head  sidewise;  consequently  he 
cannot  get  cast.     The  above  never  fails. 

PAWING  IN  THE  STALL. 

Get  a  common  trace  chain,  about  two  feet  long ;  fasten 
it  to  the  leg  that  he  paws  with,  just  above  the  knee,  with 
a  hame  strap,  and  let  the  chain  swing  to  the  side  of  the 
leg.     He  will  soon  be  glad  to  keep  it  still. 

KICKING  IN  THE  STALL. 

Some  horses  acquire  this  vice  from  mere  irritability, 
and  uneasiness  in  the  stall.  If  the  horse  kicks  with  but 
one  foot  he  can  be  broken,  very  easily,  by  attaching  a 
wooden  clog  to  the  ankle  of  the  foot  that  he  kicks  with. 
If  with  both  feet,  take  the  saddle  part  of  the  harness,  and 
bnckle  on  tightly;  then  take  a  short  strap,  with  a  ring, 
and  buckle  around  the  forward  foot,  below  the  fetlock. 
To  this  strap  attach  another  strap;  bring  up,  and  pass 
through  the  turrets  down  to  the  hind  foot,  below  the  fet- 
lock. With  this  attachment  on  each  side,  the  moment 
that  he  kicks  he  will  pull  his  forward  feet  from  under 
hira,  which  brings  him  to  his  knees,  and  he  will  be  care- 
ful not  to  do  so  very  often.  Let  him  stand  in  the  stall  in 
this  way  until  he  gives  up  the   foolish  habit. 


56  THE   HORSE   OWNEr's 

VICIOUS  BITERS. 

If  he  is  a  stallion,  with  the  confirmed  habit  of  biting 
and  striking,  at  your  approach,  we  can  give  you  but  little 
encouragement.  We  would  not  think  it  worth  while  to 
attempt  to  break  him,  but  would  advise  you  to  castrate 
him  at  once.  However,  we  have  bought  several  bad 
biting  stallions,  and  effectually  cured  them  of  the  vice 
while  in  our  possession ;  but,  on  the  approach  of  a  strang- 
er, they  would  show  more  or  less  viciousness.  I  have 
known  owners  of  such  horses  to  whip  them  until  they 
would  tremble  in  every  joint,  and  were  (seemingly)  al- 
most ready  to  drop,  but  have  never,  in  a  single  case, 
known  them  cured  by  such  treatment.  In  twenty  min- 
utes he  is  as  determined  as  ever  to  renew  the  combat;  he 
seems  unable  to  resist  the  temptation ;  I  sometimes  think 
it  a  species  of  insanity.  If  you  have  a  mare  or  a  gelding 
in  possession  of  this  vice,  you  can  easily  cure  it.  Place 
the  small  loop  of  the  cord  round  the  under  jaw,  with  run- 
ning loop  over  the  neck ;  have  the  small  loop  fit  so  close 
around  the  jaw  that  it  cannot  spit  it  out,  also  under  the 
to.igue ;  the  other  end  carry  out  of  the  stall,  and  hang  on 
the  peg  where  you  hang  your  harness.  Now,  as  you  step 
up  to  the  stall,  take  hold  of  the  cord  with  one  hand,  the 
other,  place  on  his  quarter^  and  say,  "  stand  over  ";  if  he 
attempts  to  frisk  or  bite  at  you,  give  him  a  sudden  pull, 
and  say,  "  take  care,  sir !"  then  pass  into  the  stall ;  if  he 
again  attempts  to  bite  at  you,  give  him  another  sharp 
pull,  saying,  "  what  are  you  doing  sir  !"  Give  him  a  few 
lessons  of  this  kind,  and  a  cure  is  preformed. 

TO  SHOE  A  HORSE  THAT  IS  VICIOUS. 

We  care  not  how  vicious  a  horse  may  be  when  he  is  being 
shoJ.     Wd  think  we  can  make  the  worst  of  the  kind  stand 


ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE.  57 

perfectly  still  in  ten  minutes,  so  that  the  smith  will  have 
no  farthur  trouble.  The  plan  which  is  adopted  by  the 
smiths  in  general  is  not  only  cruel,  but  has  a  tendency  to 
make  them  far  worse.  A  colt  is  taken  to  the  shop,  wild 
and  uneducated  ;  and,  during  the  process  of  setting  the 
shoes,  if  he  makes  a  wrong  move,  the  smith  gets  in  a  fear- 
ful rage  and  gives  him  a  sharp  blow  with  the  hammer  or 
rasp;  the  horse  rears  and  plunges  and  is  so  frightened  he 
will  not  allow  a  hand  laid  upon  him.  The  next  move  is 
to  fetter  or  cast  him.  A  rope  is  put  round  his  neck, 
then  to  the  ankle  of  each  of  his  hind  feet,  then  forward, 
with  perhaps  two  men  at  each  end.  They  then  pull  on  the 
rope,  and  the  horse  is  thrown  back  upon  his  haunches.  We 
have  seen  fine  horses  so  injured  across  the  loins  by  adopt- 
ing this  plan  of  throwing  them,  that  they  were  never  again 
fit  for  use. 

Another  plan  is  to  put  a  pair  of  tongs  on  his  nose, 
then  a  rope  to  the  ankle  of  one  of  his  hind  feet,  and 
through  a  ring  made  fast  to  his  tail ;  his  foot  is  drawn 
back,  and  made  fast  to  the  side  of  the  shop. 

Now  we  ask  any  man  if  there  is  any  common  sense  in 
employing  such  means  by  which  to  shoe  a  wild  horse.  If 
a  horse  struggles,  which  he  is  sure  to  do,  he  must  get 
badly  injured. 

By  the  use  of  the  surcingle  you  can  shoe  any  horse 
with  ease  and  safety. 

THE  PLAN  FOR  A  BREACHY  HORSE. 

A  breachy  horse  is  one  which  costs  a  farmer  a  great 
amount  of  time  and  trouble.  He  goes  to  the  pasture 
or  field,  but  is  never  sure  of  finding  him  where  he  per-, 
haps  left  him  the  evening  previous.     Mr.  Cole's    plan,  by 


58 


THE   HORSE   OWNER's 


V         V 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  59 

which  to  prevent  a  horse  from  jumping,  is  to  place  a 
leather  surcingle  tight  around  his  body,  with  an  inch  ring 
under  the  chest,  fastened  to  the  surcingle  ;  also,  a  strap 
one  inch  wide,  eight  inches  in  length,  buckled  around  tlie 
ankle  of  the  left  hind  foot,  with  a  ring  attached  ;  a  strap 
one  inch  wide,  three  and  a  half  or  four  feet  in  length, 
(the  length  of  this  strap  being  governed  by  the  size 
of  the  horse),  one  end  buckled  in  t]je  ring  under  the  chest, 
the  other  end  to  the  ring  attached  to  the  ankle.  If  the 
horse  should  attempt  to  jump,  placed  in  such  a  position, 
he  deprives  himself  of  the  use  of  the  left  hind  foot,  has 
not  power  in  the  right,  sufficient  to  rise — consequently  he 
must  fail  in  his  attempt.  In  most  cases  the  plan  proves 
quite  effectual,  but  we  recommend  the  animal  Fetter. 
(See  Fig.  11.) 

HOW  TO  CATCH  A  HORSB  IN  PASTURE. 

The  prevailing  opinion  of  horsemen  generally  is,  that 
the  sense  of  smell  is  the  governing  sense  of  the  horse,  and 
that  no  means  can  be  employed  by  which  to  catch  a  wild 
hores,  in  pasture,  without  the  use  of  strong  smelling  oils. 
Sullivan  and  Faucher,  as  well  as  others,  have  got  up  receipts 
of  strong  smelling  oils,  to  catch  and  tame  a  wild  horse — 
sometimes  using  the  castor  of  his  leg,  which  they  dry, 
grind  into  a  powder,  and  blow  into  his  nostril ;  some- 
times using  the  oil  of  rhodium,  cummin  and  organum, 
that  are  noted  for  their  strong  smell  ;  and  sometimes 
they  scent  the  hands^  with  the  sweat  from  under  their 
arms,  and  blow  their  breath  into  his  nostrils;  all  of 
which,  as  far  as  the  scent  goes,  have  no  effect  whatever 
in  gentling  or  subduing  the  horse,  or  conveying  any  idea 
to   his   mind,   though   the    work    that  accompanies  these 


60 


THE  HORSE   OWNER's 


Animal  Fettek, 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  61 

efforts — handling  him,  touching  him  about  the  nose  and 
head,  and  patting  him,  as  they  direct  you  should,  after 
administering  the  article,  will  have  a  very  great  effect, 
which  they  mistake  for  the  effect  of  the  ingredients  used. 
By  using  the  oils  you  can  approach  a  wild  horse  in 
pasture,  and  after  caressing  him  for  a  length  of  time,  get 
your  halter  on  his  head,  but  when  you  attempt  to  lead 
him,  he   is  off  as  wild    as    ever. 

Paucher,  in  his  work  entitled  "  The  Arabian  Art  of 
Taming  Horses,"  Page  17,  tells  us  how  to  accustom  a 
horse  to  a  robe  by  administering  certain  articles  to  his 
nose,  and  goes  on  to  say,  that  these  articles  must  first  be 
applied  to  the  horse's  nose  before  you  attempt  to  break 
him,  in  order  to  operate  successfully.  Now,  reader,  can 
you  or  any  one  else,  give  one  single  reason  why  scent  can 
convey  any  idea  to  the  horse's  mind  of  what  we  want  him 
to  do  ?  If  not,  then  of  course  strong  scents  of  any  kind 
are  of  no  account  in  taming  the  unbroken  horse  ;  for  ev- 
erything we  get  him  to  do  of  his  own  accord,  without 
force,  must  be  accomplished  by  some  means  of  conveying 
our  idea  to  his  mind.  I  say  to  my  horse  "Go  along," 
and  he  goes ;  "whoa"  and  he  stops,  because  these  two 
words — of  which  he  has  learned  the  meaning  by  the  tap 
of  the  whip,  and  the  pull  of  the  rein  that  first  accom- 
panied them — convey  the  two  ideas  to  his  mind  of  go  and 
stop.  Faucher,  nor  any  one  else,  can  ever  teach  the 
horse  a  single  thing  by  the  means  of  scents  alone.  How 
long  do  you  suppose  a  horse  would  have  to  stand  and 
smell  of  a  bottle  of  oil  before  he  would  learn  to  bend  the 
knee,  and  make  a  bow  at  bidding,  go  yonder  and 
bring  your  hat,  or  come  here  and  lie  down  ? 

Thus  you  see  the  absurdity  of  trying  to  break,  or  tame 


62  THE   HORSE   OWNERS 

the  horse  by  the  means  of  receipts  for  articles  to  smell  of, 
or  medicines  to  give  him,  of  any  kind  whatever.  The 
only  science  which  has  ever  existed  in  the  world  relative 
to  breaking  horses,  that  has  been  of  any  account,  is  that 
true  method  which  takes  them  in  their  natural  state  of 
mind,  and  improves  their  intelligence.  Consequently,  if 
you  wish  to  educate  yo.ur  horse  in  a  proper  manner  adopt 
a  mechanical  process.  He  will  then  fully  comprehend 
your  meaning  and  obey  at  the  word.  If  your  horse  is 
wild,  and  will  not  be  caught  when  in  pasture,  drive  him 
into  the  barn  and  close  the  doors,  and  make  them  fast, 
after  which  adopt  Mr.  Smith's  plan  on  fifth  and  sixth 
pages.  It  will  bring  him  up  to  you,  and  he  will  follow 
you  just  where  you  wish  to  go ;  after  which  you  can  go 
to  the  pasture  or  field  and  say,  "Come  here,  boy,"  and  he 
obeys  the  call  at  once,  and  gives  you  no  further  trouble. 


ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE.  63 


TEACHING  TRICKS. 


As  many  of  my  scholars  may  wish  to  know  how  to 
teach  their  horses  tricks,  I  will  explain  how  it  may  be 
done.  Teaching  a  young  horse  a  few  tricks  greatly 
serves  to  keep  up  an  interest  in  him,  and  make  him 
appear  intelligent,  fearless  and-  affectionate.  In  teaching 
your  horse  to  perform  tricks,  it  is  best  to  give  him  one  or 
two  lessons  of  half  or  three-quarters  of  an  hour  each, 
daily. 

TO  COMH  AT  THE  CRACK  OF  THE  WHIP,  OR 
AT  THE  WORD  OF  COMMAND, 

(Use  the  same  methods  as  for  halter-breaking,  catching 
in  pasture,  and  the  like). 

TO  MAKE  A  BOW. 

Take  a  pin  in  your  right  hand,  between  the  thumb  and 
forefinger,  and  stand  before,  but  a  little  to  the  left  of  your 
horse.  Then  prick  him  in  the  breast  very  lightly,  as  if 
a  fly  was  biting;  to  relieve  which  he  will  bring  down  his 
head,  which  you  will  accept  as  yes,  and  for  which  you  will 
reward  him  by  caressing  and  feeding  him  a  little  apple,  or 
a  few  kernels  of  corn  or  oats.  Then  repeat,  and  so  con- 
tinue, until  he  brings  the  head  down  the  moment  he  sees 
the  least  motion  of  your  hand  towards  his  breast — or  sub- 
stitute some  signal  which  he  will  understand  as  readily. 
TO  SAY  WO. 

Stand  by  your  horse,  near  the  shoulder,  holding  the 
same  pin  in  your  hand,  with  which  prick  lightly  on 
the  withers,  and,  to  relieve  himself,  he  will  shake  his  head. 


64  THE   HOESE   OWXER's 

Yon  then  caress  him  as  before,  and  so  continue  doing  nntil 
he  will  shake  his  head  at  the  least  indication  of  your 
touching  him  with  the  pin.  You  can  train  your  horse 
so  nicely  in  this  way  in  a  short  time,  as  to  cause  him  to 
shake  his  head,  or  to  bow,  by  merely  turning  the  hand 
a  little,  or  moving  it  slightly  towards  him. 

TO  LIE  DOWN. 

To  teach  a  horse  how  to  do  this  trick  quickly,  you 
must  lay  him  down  two  or  three  times,  or  as  often  as  you 
may  find  it  necessary  to  make  him  understand  your  ob- 
ject. If  an  old  horse,  strap  the  near  fore-leg  up  to  the 
arm  :  then  take  your  little  strap,  previously  used  to  tam- 
per your  colt  with,  and  place  it  over  the  back  and  strap 
around  the  off  fore  foot,  below  the  fetlock.  Then  take 
the  bridle  rein  firmly  in  your  left  hand,  about  eighteen 
inches  from  the  head,  and  pull  upon  it  a  little  towards 
you.  The  moment  he  steps,  pull  upon  the  strap  over  the 
body,  which  will  bring  the  horse  to  his  knees.  Hold 
him  quietly,  at  the  same  time  talking  to  him  gently. 
AYhen  he  springs,  pull  sharply  with  the  left  hand,  and  at 
the  same  instant  pall  down  with  the  right,  which  will 
swing  him  around  you,  and  prevent  his  rising  high 
enough  to  injure  his  knees  by  the  momentum  of  the 
body  in  coming  down.  By  your  being  gentle,  the  horse 
will  usually  lie  down  in  a  short  time.  When  down, 
treat  him  with  the  greatest  attention  and  kindness. 

After  holding  him  down  ten  or  fifteen  minutes,  permit 
him  to  get  up.  Repeat  this  lesson  until  he  will  come 
down  readily.  Then  use  only  the  strap  over  the  back, 
which  have  on  the  near  foot,  and  bring  him  on  his  kr.ees 
gently,  when  he  will  soon  lie  down.     When  he  will  come 


ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE.  65 

on  his  knees  readily  by  taking  up  the  foot  in  this  way, 
take  up  the  foot  with  the  hand,  asking  him  to  lie  down. 
He  will  soon  come  down.  When  he  will  come  on  his 
knees  readily  by  taking  up  the  foot  with  the  hand, 
simply  stoop  as  if  intending  to  take  it  up,  saying,  "  lie 
down,  sir,"  Then  make  him  come  down  by  a  motion 
of  the  hand,-  and  finally  by  telling  him  to  lie  down.  If  a 
colt,  use  but  a  single  strap  over  the  body  at  first,  which 
will  cause  him  to  come  on  his  knees.  In  teaching  a 
horse  to  lie  down — be  gentle,  caress,  and  reward  him  for 
it,  and  he,  comprehending  what  you  want,  and  finding 
himself  paid  for  compliance,  will  soon  be  as  anxious  to 
get  down  for  the  reward  as  you  are  to  have  him. 

TO  SIT  UP. 

When  your  horse  will  lie  down  readily,  you  can  then 
easily  teach  him  to  sit  up  like  a  dog.  If  young  and  not 
very  heavy  and  strong,  you  can  easily  prevent  his  getting 
up,  without  tying  down.  First  cause  him  to  He  down, 
having  on  him  a  common  bridle,  with  the  reins  over  the 
neck,  then  step  behind  him  and  place  the  right  foot  firmly 
upon  the  tail,  the  reins  in  your  hands.  Then  say,  "  get  up, 
sir."  The  horse,  rising  from  a  recumbent  position,  first 
upon  his  belly,  throws  out  his  forward  feet  and  raising  him- 
self upon  them,  springs  forward,  and  rises  on  his  hind 
feet  Now,  standing  upon  his  tail  firmly,  and  pulling  back 
upoa  the  reins  when  he  attempts  to  spring  forward  and  up, 
will  prevent  his  doing  so,  and  you  hold  him  sitting  up. 
Hold  him  firmly  a  few  seconds,  talking  to  him  kindly, 
before  permitting  him  to  rise  on  his  feet.  Repeat  a  few 
times,  when,  instead  of  springing    up,  he  will  sit  on  his 


66  THE   HORSE   OWNERS 

haunches  a  short  time,  which  you  are  to  accept  as  comply- 
ing with  your  wishes.  Always  say,  *'  sit  up,  sir,"  every 
time,  and  hold  him  in  the  position  as  long  as  he  will  bear, 
by  fondling  him,  and  feeding  him  from  the  hand  with  some- 
thing he  likes  and  your  horse  will  learn  to  sit  up  for  you 
as  long  as  you  please. 

But  if  your  horse  is  heavy,  and  strong,  it  will  be  neces- 
sary to  resort  to  other  means  to  hold  him  down  at  first. 
This  you  do  by  putting  on  his  neck  a  common  collar,  and 
causing  him  to  lie  down.  Then  fasten  a  piece  of  rope,  or  a 
rein,  to  each  hind  foot,  and  bring  forward  through  the  col- 
lar and  draw  up  close,  which  will  bring  the  hind  feet  well 
forward.  Then  step  behind,  as  before,  and  when  he  at- 
tempts to  rise  on  his  hind  feet  he  finds  it  impossible  to  do 
so,  because  you  hold  them  firmly  with  these  straps.  Repeat 
two  or  three  times,  when  it  will  not  be  necessary  to  resort 
to  such  force. 

TO  TEACH  A  HORSE  TO  KISS  YOU. 

Teach  him,  first,  to  take  an  apple  out  of  your  hand. 
Then  gradually  raise  the  hand  nearer  the  mouth  at  each 
repetition,  until  you  require  him  to  take  it  from  your 
mouth,  holding  it  with  the  hand,  telling  him  at  the  same 
time  to  kiss  you.  He  will  soon  learn  to  reach  up  his  nose 
to  your  mouth  ;  first  to  get  his  apple,  but  finally  because 
commanded  to  do  so.  Simply  repeat  until  your  horse  un- 
derstands the  trick  thoroughly. 

TO  SHAKE  HANDS. 

Tie  a  short  strap,  or  piece  of  cord,  to  the  forward  foot 
below  the  fetlock.  Stand  directly  before  the  horse,  holding 
the  end  of  this  strap  or  cord  in  your  hand  and  then  say, 


ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE.  67 

"  shake  hands,  sir,"  and  immediately  after  commanding 
him  to  do  so,  pull  upon  the  strap,  which  will  bring  his  foot 
forward,  and  which  you  are  to  accept  as  shaking  hands, 
thanking  him  for  it  by  caressing  and  feeding.  And  so 
repeat,  until  when  you  make  the  demand  he  will  bring  the 
foot  forward,  in  anticipation  of  having  it  pulled  up.  This 
is  a  very  easy  trick  to  teach  a  horse.  By  a  little  practice  a 
horse  may  be  easily  trained  to  approach,  make  a  bow,  shake 
hands,  follow  like  a  dog,  lie  down,  sit  up,  and  the  like — 
which  feats  make  him  appear  both  polite  and  intelligent. 

Never  lose  courage,  nor  confidence  in  your  ability,  because 
you  may  not  bring  about  good  results  easily.  To  accom- 
plish anything  of  importance,  remember,  requires  no  ordi- 
nary resolution  and  perseverance.  There  would  be  no 
credit  nor  importance  attached  to  mastering  and  managing 
bad  horses,  if  it  were  not  difficult,  and  apparently  danger- 
ous. No  duty  requires  more  firmness  of  purpose  in  the 
control  of  the  passions,  nor  more  fidelity  to  the  principles 
of  firmness  and  truth,  than  that  of  horsemanship. 

If  you  would  really  be  a  successful  horseman,  you  must 
never  seem,  by  your  conduct,  to  forget  that  you  are  a  man, 
and  that  your  real  superiority  over  the  animal  consists  in 
the  prudent  exercise  of  your  reasoning  powers.  Brute  force 
is  not  your  forte,  and  the  instant  you  give  way  to  passion 
your  reason  mast  yield  to  the  control  of  blind  instinct, 
and  you  at  once  abdicate  your  intellectual  superiority  over 
the  animals.  Try  to  prove,  by  the  example  of  your  actioa 
in  the  performance  of  the  duty,  that  to  be  a  good  horseman 
requires  higher  qualifications  of  fitness  than  that  of  the 
huckstering  dishonesty  and  depravity,  so  generally  evinced 
in  the  conduct  of  those  claiminji  the  distinction. 


68 


HOW  TO  TELL  A  HORSE'S  AGE. 

At  two  years  old,  a  colt  sheds  two  centre  nippers. 

At  three  years  old,  a  colt  sheds  the  adjoining  teeth. 

At  four  years  old,  a  colt  sheds  the  outer  or  corner  teeth. 

At  five  years  old,  the  bridle  tooth  is  up,  and  at  six  years, 
cups  leave  two  centre  teeth  below. 

At  seven  years  old,  cups  leave  adjoining  teeth. 

At  eight  years  old,  cups  leave  outer  or  corner  teeth. 

At  nine  years  old,  cups  leave  the  two  centre  nippers 
above. 

At  ten  years  old,  cups  leave  adjoining  teeth. 

At  eleven  years  old,  cups  leave  corner  upper  teeth. 

At  twelve  years  old  or  past,  groove  on  inside  of  bridle 
tooth  disappears  in  horses.  Mares  very  seldom  have  them  ; 
when  they  do  they  are  no  criterion  to  be  guided  by. 

JOCKEY  TRICKS. 

How  TO  Make  a  Hoese  Appear  as  if  he  was  badly 
Foundered. —  Take  a  fine  wire  and  fasten  tight  around 
ankle,  between  foot  and  pastern,  and  smooth  the  hair  over 
it.  In  twenty  minutes  the  horse  will  show  lame.  Do  n6't 
leave  it  on  over  nine  hours. 

To  Make  a  Horse  Lame. — Take  a  single  hair  from  the 
tail,  put  through  the  eye  of  a  needle,  lift  front  fore  leg  and 
press  the  skin  between  outer  and  middle  tendon  or  cord ; 
shove  the  needle  through,  cut  the  hair  off  on  each  side, 
and  let  the  foot  down ;  the  horse  will  go  lame  in  twenty 
minutes. 

^  How  TO  Make  a  Horse  Stand  by  his  Food  and  not 
TAKE  IT. — Grease  the  front  teeth,  and  the  roof  of  the 
mouth,  with  common  beef  tallow,  and  he  will  not  eat  till 


ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE.  69 

you  wash  it  out.  This,  in  connection  with  the  above,  will 
consummate  a  perfect  founder. 

How  TO  Stop  a  Horse  of  the  Crib,  or  sucking  Wixd. 
— Saw  between  the  upper  teeth  to  the  gums. 

How    to    put   a    Young    Countenance    on   a    Horse. 

Make  a  small  incision  in  the  sunk  place  over  the  eye,  in- 
sert the  point  of  a  goose-quill,  and  blow  it  up ;  close  the 
external  wound  with  the  thread,  and  it  is  done. 

To  Cover  up  the  Heaves. — Drench  the  horse  with 
one-fourth  pound  of  bird  shot,  and  he  will  not  heave  un- 
til they  pass  through. 

To  Make  a  Horse  Appear  as  if  he  Had  the 
Glanders. — Melt  four  ounces  fresh  butter,  and  pour  it, 
into  his    ear. 

To  Distinguish  between  Distemper  and  Gland- 
ders. — The  discharge  from  the  nose  in  distemper  will 
float  in  water ;  in  glanders  it  sinks. 

How  to  Make  a  True  Pulling  Horse  Balk. — 
Take  tincture  caatharides  one  ounce,  and  corrosive  subli- 
mate one  drachm ;  mix,  and  bathe  his  shoulders  at  night. 

How  TO  Nerve  a  Horse  that  is  Lame. — Make  a 
small  incision  about  half  way  from  the  knee  to  the  joint 
on  the  outside  of  the  leg  and  at  the  back  part  of  the  shin 
bone ;  you  will  find  a  small  white  tendon  or  cord  ;  cut  it 
off,  close  the  external  wound  with  a  stitch,  and  he  will 
walk  off  on  the  hardest  pavement,  and  not  limp  a  par- 
ticle. 

Dose  to  Trade  on. — One  ounce  of  black  antimony, 
mixed  with  an  ounce  of  cantharides.  A  small  spoonful 
twice  a  day  will  fatten  a  horse  in  ten  days  to  trade  on. 


70  THE   HOESE   OWNEe's 


TREATISE  ON  SHOEING. 

The  following  directions  taken  from  Mr.  Miles'  excel- 
lent treatise  on  horse-shoeing,  are  the  best  that  can  be  of- 
fered on  this  subject; 

PREPARING  THE  FOOT. 

You  must  begin  by  taking  off  one  of  the  old  shoes  ;  and 
I  say  one,  because  the  others  should  always  be  kept  on 
for  the  horse  to  rest  upon.  All  horses  stand  quieter  "on 
shod  feet  than  they  can  on  bare  ones,  and  they  are  less 
likely  to  break  the  crust.  Many  tender-footed  horses  are 
in  positive  agony  when  forced  to  rest  on  a  bare  foot,  while 
the  opposite  one  is  held  up  to  be  shod.  First  raise  all  the 
clinchers  with  the  buffer,  and  if  the  shoe  will  not  then 
come  off  easily,  loosen  some  of  the  nails  with  the  punch; 
but  never  te^r  the  shoe  off  by  main  force  as  it  splits  the 
crust,  widens  the  nail-holes  and  destroys  the  horn.  The 
shoe  being  off,  you  should  rasp  the  edge  of  the  hoof  all 
rv)und,  and  take  out  any  stubs  that  may  be  left  in  the 
crust.  Then  you  must  pare  out  the  foot,  and  this  requires 
both  care  and  thought.  If  the  horse  have  a  strong  foot 
with  plenty  of  horn,  you  should  shorten  the  toe,  lower  the 
heels  and  crust  and  remove  the  dead  horn  from  the  sole, 
and  also  from  the  corners  between  the  heels  and  the  burs. 
The  best  way  of  doing  this,  is  to  pare  the  burs  down 
nearly  level  with  the  sole,  and  then  you  can  get  at  the 
dead  horn  in  the  corners  more  easily.  The  part  of  the 
bur  which  stands  up  above    the   sole,    would   have  been 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  71 

worn  away  or  broken  down  if  the  shoe  had  not  kept  the 
hoof  off  the  ground  ;  therefore,  you  had  better  always  pare 
it  down.  But  on  no  account  ever  cut  anything  away 
from  the  sides  of  the  burs,  nor  what  is  called  "  open  out 
the  heels";  be  sure  you  never  touch  the  frog  with  a 
knife.  Now,  remember  that  there  are  three  things  which 
you  must  never  do  in  paring  out  a  foot ;  you  must  never 
cut  the  sides  of  the  burs,  nor  open  out  the  heels,  nor  pare 
the  frog,  and  I  will  tell  you  why  you  must  never  do  them. 
The  burs  are  placed  where  they  are  to  keep  the  heels 
from  closing  in  upon  the  frog,  and  if  you  thin  them  by 
cutting  their  sides  you  weaken  them,  and  they  can  no 
longer  do  it,  and  the  foot  begins  to  contract.  Opening 
out  the  heel  does  exactly  the  same  thing,  by  weakenino- 
the  very  parts  which  nature  placed  there  to  keep  the  heels 
apart.  It  takes  some  time  to  conti-act  a  horse's  foot  so 
much  as  to  lame  him,  and  because  the  contraction  comes 
on  by  slow  degrees,  no  one  notices  it  till  the  horse  falls 
lame  and  then  every  one  wonders  what  can  have  done  it ; 
but  very  few  hit  upon  the  right  cause.  The  frog  is  a 
thick,  spongy  cushion,  the  chief  use  of  which  is  to  protect  a 
very  important  joint  called  the  maricular  joint,  and  it  is  cov- 
ered by  a  thin  layer  of  horn,  which  keeps  in  the  moist- 
ure ;  and  every  time  you  slice  off  any  of  the  frog,  you  lay 
bare  a  part  that  was  never  meant  to  be  exposed  to  the 
air,  and  it  dies,  and  cracks,  and  forms  rays ;  and  if  these 
rays  are  cut  off  at  every  fresh  shoeing,  the  whole  frog  be- 
comes as  dry  and  hard  as  a  board,  and  the  horse  gets  an 
incurable  disease  called  "mari(;ular  disease,"  Therefore, 
I  say  leave  the  frog  alone;  it  will  never  grow  too  large, 
for,  long  before  that  would  happen,  the  outer  covering  will 
shell  off,  and  a  new,  horny  covering  will  be  found  under- 


72  THE   HORSE   OWNER's 

neath.  And  as  to  the  rays,  leave  them  alone  also,  and 
they  will  fall  off  of  themselves.  A  weak,  flat  foot,  will 
bear  very  little  paring  or  rasping.  The  crust  of  such  a 
foot  is  sure  to  be  thin  at  the  toe  and  low  at  the  heels,  with 
a  thin  and  weak  sole.  Therefore,  the  less  you  do  to  it 
the  better,  beyond  making  the  crust  level  where  it  is  to 
bear  upon  the  shoe.  This  must  be  done  to  all  feet,  and 
as  the  inner  quarter,  where  there  should  be  no  nails,  does 
not  wear  away  as  fast  as  the  outer  quarter  where  the  nails 
are  driven,  you  should  alwaj^s  place  a  rasp  upon  its  edge 
across  the  foot,  to  be  quite  sure  that  the  two  sides  are  lev- 
el. I  have  known  shoes  lost  from  the  inside  quarter  be- 
ing higher  than  the  outside,  which  causes  the  foot  to  bear 
unevenly  on  the  shoe.  Before  you  pare  out  a  foot,  you 
should  always  think  of  the  state  of  the  roads ;  and  if  they 
are  dry  and  covered  with  loose  stones,  or  have  been  lately 
repaired,  you  should  take  very  little  off  the  sole  of  any 
foot,  because  if  you  thin  it  the  stones  will  bruise  it ;  but 
when  the  season  is  wet  and  the  stones  worn  in,  you  may 
pare  the  sole  of  a  strong  foot  a  little,  till  it  will  yield  in  a 
very  slight  degree  to  the  heaviest  pressure  you  can  make 
upon  it  with  your  thumb  ;  but  you  must  never  pare  it 
thin  enough  to  yield  to  less  pressure  than  the  very  heavi- 
est you  can  bring  to  bear  upon  it. 

THE  SHOE. 

In  turning  your  store  shoes  in  the  rough,  you  should 
leave  them  longer  at  the  heels  than  smiths  generally  do. 
We  shall  see  the  reason  for  it  when  we  come  to  "fitting 
the  shoe."  And  you  should  make  the  web  as  wide  at  the 
heels  as  it  is  at  the  toe,  and  of  the  same  thickness  through- 
out, from  the  toe   back  to  the  heels. 

The  "  fuller  "  should  be  carried  quite  round  the  shoe  to 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  73 

the  heels,  and  the  fullering  iron  should  have  both  sides 
alike.  It  is  a  far  better  tool  than  the  one-sided  iron  in 
common  use,  which  is  generally  so  narrow  and  sharp,  that 
it  not  only  makes  the  groove  too  small  for  the  heads  of  the 
nails  to  sink  into,  but  it  often  splits  the  shoe.  A  narrow 
groove  may  look  neater  than  a  wide  one,  but  you  will  find 
a  wide  one  much  more  useful. 

CHOOSING-  A  SHOE. 
The  first  thing  to  look  at  in  choosing  a  shoe,  is  the  kind 
of  foot  you  have  to  deal  with.  If  the  foot  be  a  strong, 
good-shaped  one,  it  will  be  an  easy  matter  to  find  a  shoe 
for  it,  only  take  care  the  web  is  not  too  narrow,  and  that 
the  shoe  is  not  too  light.  A  light  shoe  is  apt  to  bend  be- 
fore it  is  half  worn  out ;  and  the  pain  caused  by  the  pres- 
sure of  the  bent  nails  against  the  tender  lining  of  the 
hoof  throws  the  horse  down,  and  most  likely  breaks  his 
knees.  If  the  foot  should  be  flat,  with  a  weak,  brittle 
crust,  you  must  still  choose  a  stout  shoe,  for  a  horse  with 
such  a  foot  would  not  go  at  all  on  a  bent  shoe,  and  the 
shoe  must  have  a  wide  web,  because  the  sole  is  sure  to  be 
thin,  and  will  need  plenty  of  cover  to  protect  it.  You 
must  also  look  at  the  seating,  for  if  the  foot  is  weak  and 
flat,  the  shoe  must  be  well  seated  out  to  prevent  its  press- 
ing upon  and  bruising  the  sole.  But  if  the  foot  is  strong, 
and  the  sole  arched,  there  need  not  be  more  seating  than 
will  allow  the  point  of  a  picker  to  pass  freely  round  be- 
tween the  sole  and  the  shoe  ;  otherwise  dirt  and  small 
stones  will  get  in  and  bruise  the  sole  as  much  as  the  shoe 
would  do  if  it  pressed  upon  it.  Having  fixed  on  a  shoe 
to  your  mind,  begin  by  cutting  off  the  heels;  and  you 
will  find  a  half-round  chisel  a  better  tool  for  the  purpose 
than  a  straight  one,  because  you  should  never  cut   them 


74  THE   HORSE   OWNER's 

off  square ;  if  you  do,  you  will  find  it  impossible  to  fit  the 
shoe  properl}^  to  the  heels,  and  at  the  same  time  keep  the 
web  as  wide  at  the  heels  as  it  is  at  the  toe,  for  one  of  the 
corners  of  the  shoe  will  be  sticking  into  the  frog,  while 
the  other  stands  out  beyond  the  crust.  But  if  you  cut 
them  off,  as  shown  in  the  figure  on  page  38,  you  will 
have  no  difficulty  in  bringing  every  part  of  the  shoe  into 
its  proper  place  on  the  foot.  And  there  are  no  corners 
left  to  prevent  your  fitting  the  shoe  to  the  exact  sweep  of 
the  crust  at  the  heels,  and  you  are  also  enabled  to  keep 
the  web  as  wide  at  the  heels  as  it  is  at  the  toe.  At  this 
stage  of  the  business,  however,  it  is  a  good  plan  always  to 
leave  the  quarters  and  heels  rather  straight  and  wide 
apart,  till  you  have  fitted  the  toe,  because  it  is  less  trouble 
to  bring  them  in  than  it  is  to  open  them  out  after  the 
front  has  been  fitted. 

THE  WAIL  HOLES. 
You  must  next  open  the  nail  holes,  but  be  sure  that 
they  have  been  stamped  so  as  to  pass  straight  through 
the  shoo,  and  come  out  on  the  foot  surface  in  the  flat  part 
of  the  web ;  and  not  partly  in  the  flat  and  partly  in  the 
seating.  It  is  a  very  bad  plan  to  make  them  slant  in- 
ward, as  most  smiths  do,  for,  in  driving  a  nail,  they  have 
first  to  pitch  the  point  inward,  then  turn  it  outward,  driv. 
ing  it  all  the  time  with  the  grain  of  the  crust,  and  at  last 
they  bring  it  out  high  up  in  the  thinnest  part  of  the  hoof, 
and  have  the  weakest  part  of  the  nail  for  a  clinch.  Now, 
instead  of  all  this,  if  you  make  the  holes  straight  through 
the  shoe,  you  have  only  to  drive  the  nail  straight,  and  it 
will  go  through  the  shoe  across  the  grain  of  the  crust, 
and  come  out  low  down  in  the  thickest  part  of  the  hoof, 
and  give  you  a  strong  clinch  made  out  of  the  shank  of 


ILLUSTKATED   GUIDE.  75 

the  nail,  instead  of  a  weak  one  made  out  of  the  point. 
The  advantage  of  straight  holing  is,  that  you  are  sure 
never  to  prick  the  foot  in  driving  a  nail,  and  you  get  a 
firmer  hold  for  the  shoe.  Everybody  knows  that  a  short 
purchase  across  the  line  of  the  strain  is  stronger  than  a 
longer  one  in  the  direction  of  the  strain.  "  The  sound- 
ness of  the  horse's  foot,  so  far  as  shoeing  is  concerned,  de- 
pends more  upon  the  number  of  nails  and  where  they  are 
placed,  than  upon  anything  else  ;  but  if  the  shoe  is  ever 
so  badly  formed,  and  the  nail  holes  are  rightly  placed, 
very  little  harm  will  happen  to  the  foot  beyond  the  loss 
of  a  shoe ;  but  if  the  shoe  is  of  the  best  possible  shape,  and 
fitted  to  the  foot  in  the  most  perfect  manner,  unless  the 
nail  holes  are  placed  so  that  the  foot  can  expand,  it  must 
in  the  end  become  unsound.  The  portions  of  the  hoof 
which  expand  the  most  are  the  inner  quarter  and  heel. 

You  must,  therefore,  leave  those  parts  free  from  nails  ; 
and  the  way  to  do  it  is  never  to  stamp  more  than  two 
holes  on  the  inside  of  the  shoe,  one  about  an  inch  and  a 
quarter  from  the  center  of  the  toe,  and  the  other  about 
three-quarters  of  an  inch  behind  it.  It  is  quite  clear  that 
if  you  nail  both  sides  of  a  horse's  hoof  to  an  iron  shoe, 
the  hoof  will  be  held  fast  and  cannot  expand ;  and  when 
the  horse's  weight  forces  the  bones  of  the  foot  into  the 
hoof,  the  sensible  laminge,  connecting  the  hoof  with  the 
bones,  will  be  squeezed  against  the  shanks  of  the  nails, 
and  cause  pain  to  the  horse  at  every  step  he  takes.  The 
whole  number  of  nail  holes  should  never  exceed  five — 
three  on  the  outside  and  two  on  the  inside.  I  have 
proved,  over  and  over  again,  that  five  nails  will  hold  on 
a  fore-shoe  at  any  kind  of  work  in  any  country,  and  at 
any  pace.     When  a  shoe  is  properly  fitted  to  the  foot,  and 


76  THE   HORSE   OWNEr's 

fastened  by  five  nails,  nothing  but  the  smith's  pincers  can 
pull  it  off."  While  we  agree  in  the  main  with  Mr.  Miles 
in  his  practical  directions  upon  the  subject  of  shoeing, 
yet  we  think  he  is  in  error  with  regard  to  the  number  of 
nails  required  to  fasten  the  shoe  firmly.  It  is  contrary  to 
the  experience  of  most  practical  men,  who  find  that  with 
less  than  three  nails  an  the  inside  and  four  on  the  out 
the  shoe  is  very  liable  to  come  off.  They  need  not  be 
placed  so  wide  apart  as  Mr.  Miles  recommends,  and  will 
not,  therefore,  be  carried  any  farther  back  towards  the 
heels  than  when  only  five  are  used  according  to  his  plan. 
"Having  cut  ofl'  the  heels  and  opened  the  nail  holes,  you 
must  next  turn  up  a  clip  at  the  toe.  Every  shoe  should 
have  one  at  the  toe,  it  keeps  the  shoe  steady,  and  pre- 
vents its  being  forced  back.  But  you  should  never  put 
one  at  either  side,  for  if  it  were  put  on  the  inside,  it  would 
prevent  the  hoof  expanding,  and  on  the  outside  it  is  worse 
than  useless,  for  the  nails  there  are  quite  sufficient  to  keep 
the  shoe  from  working  across  the  foot,  and  the  clip  will 
interfere  with  the  placing  of  one  of  the  nails,  and  will  de- 
stroy more  of  the  crust  than  two  nails  would  have  done." 

FITTIK"G  THE  SHOE. 

You  must  always  bear  in  mind  that  "fitting  the  shoe" 
means  fitting  the  shoe  to  the  foot,  and  not  fitting  the  foot 
to  the  shoe,  as  is  too  often  done  in  many  forges.  It  is  a 
bad  plan  for  a  beginner  to  try  to  fit  the  whole  of  the  shoe 
at  once.  It  is  much  better  till  you  have  had  a  good  deal  of 
practice,  to  fit  the  toe  first,  then  the  quarters,  and  lastly 
the  heels.  But  before  you  begin  to  fit  the  toe,  take  a 
look  at  the  old  shoe,  and  see  how  much  of  the  toe  of  it  is 
worn  away,  because  just  so  much  of  the  new  shoe  should 


ILLUSTRATED     GUIDE.  77 

be  turned  up  from  the  ground  to  remove  it  out  of  the  line 
of  wear. 

We  all  know  that  horses  go  better  and  stumble  less  in 
old  shoes  than  they  do  in  new  ones,  and  the  reason  why 
they  do  so  is,  because  they  have  worn  away  the  toe,  and 
no  longer  jar  the  foot  by  striking  the  toe  against  hard 
substances  in  the  road.  A  new  shoe  turned  up  at  the  toe 
is  the  same  thing  to  the  horse  as  an  old  one  worn  down, 
but  with  this  great  difference  to  his  comfort,  that  he  is 
easy  upon  the  new  one  from  the  time  it  was  first  put  on, 
whereas  he  was  never  easy  upon  the  old  one  until  he  had 
worn  away  the  toe.  When  a  horse  wears  his  shoe  hard 
at  the  toe,  it  is  the  custom  of  most  smiths  to  weld  a  lump 
of  steel  on  it  to  make  him  longer  in  wearing  it  away. 
But  this  only  increases  the  jar  to  his  foot,  whereas,  turn- 
ing up  the  toe  makes  the  shoe  last  quite  as  long,  and 
saves  the  horse  from  a  great  deal  of  unnecessary  suffering. 
A  strong  foot  will  bear  the  toe  to  be  turned  up  a  good 
deal,  but  a  flat  foot  is  always  weak  at  the  toe,  and  cannot 
bear  the  removal  of  any  of  the  horn  .from  it.  The  best 
way,  therefore,  of  dealing  with  a  very  flat  foot  is  to  fit 
the  shoe  to  it  without  turning  up  the  toe,  then  to  make 
the  toe  of  the  shoe  red-hot  and  place  it  in  the  vise  with 
the  ground  surface  toward  you,  and  in  that  position  rasp 
the  iron  away  from  that  part  of  the  toe  which  would 
have  rested  on  the  ground  ;  the  horse  will  travel  safer 
and  better  for  it,  and  the  loss  of  a  little  iron  from  the 
toe  will  not  cause  the  shoe  to  wear  out  faster,  for  a  fleet- 
footed  horse  will  generally  wear  away  the  heels  of  a  shoe 
long  before  he  has  worn  out  the  toe.  I  will  now  suppose 
that  you  have  turned  up  the  toe  of  the  shoe,  shortened 
the  toe  of  the  hoof,  rasped  the  crust  to  receive  the  turned- 


78  THE   HOESE   OWNEE'S 

Tip  shoe,  and  cut  a  notch  for  the  clip.  You  had  hetter 
next,  till  you  have  gained  experience  in  fitting  a  shoe, 
"  spring "  the  heels,  to  prevent  them  burning  the  back 
part  of  the  crust  while  you  are  fitting  tlie  shoe  to  the  fore 
part ;  but  you  must  bring  them  down  again  before  you 
fit  the  quarters  and  heels,  and  never  leave  them  "  sprung  " 
when  the  shoe  is  nailed  on.  You  must  now  put  the  toe 
of  the  shoe  in  the  fire,  and  make  it  hot  enough  to  mark 
the  uneven  portions  of  horn,  which  should  be  lightly  re- 
moved by  the  rasp  till  an  even  bed  is  left  for  the  shoe  to 
rest  upon.  You  need  not  fear  to  burn  the  toe  of  a  strong 
foot,  it  can  do  no  harm ;  but  a  weak  foot  with  a  thin  crust, 
of  course,  will  not  bear  much  burning ; '  still  the  shoe 
should  be  made  hot  enough  to  scorch  the  horn,  and  show 
where  the  hoof  fails  to  bear  upon  it.  When  the  toe  is 
once  properly  fitted,  there  will  be  very  little  trouble  in 
fitting  the  quarters  and  heels.  You  have  only  to  bring 
them  in  over  the  back  of  the  anvil,  till  the  edge  of  the 
shoe  ranges  with  the  edge  of  the  hoof  back  to  the  farthest 
point  of  the  heel  on  each  side,  and  continue  the  same 
sweep  until  it  nearly  touches  the  frog.  There  must  be 
none  of  the  shoe  left  sticking  out  beyond  the  hoof,  either 
behind  or  at  the  side  of  the  heels. 

The  part  of  the  foot  that  needs  protection  from  injury, 
more  than  any  other,  is  the  "maricular  joint,"  which  rests 
upon  the  frog  about  an  inch  or  an  inch  and  a  quarter 
behind  its  point;  and  the  only  way  to  protect  it  is  to  keep 
the  web  of  the  shoe  as  wide  at  the  heels  as  it  is  at  the 
toe,  and  to  bring  in  the  heels  till  they  nearly  touch  the 
frog;  by  so  doing  you  lessen  the  opening  of  the  shoe,  and 
the  web  of  one  side  or  the  other  will  strike  upon  the  stones 
in  the  road,  and  save  the  frog  from  coming  full  force  upon 


ILLVSTRATED    GUIDE.  79 

tbem.  But  open-heeled  shoes  leave  the  frog  entirely  ex- 
posed to  very  large  stones  and  are  the  cause  of  many  a 
severe  bruise  to  the  maricular  joint,  which  lays  the  foun- 
dation of  future  incurable  lameness.  Another  great  ad- 
vantage of  bringing  in  the  heels  and  fitting  the  shoe  close, 
is  the  certainty  that  the  horse  will  not  cast  his  shoe.  You 
leave  nothing  for  stiff  ground  to  lay  hold  of  and  if  you 
slightly  bevel  the  inside  quarter  and  heel  of  the  shoe 
from  the  foot  downward,  as  is  sometimes  done  to  prevent 
a  horse  cutting,  no  ground  in  the  world  can  pull  it  off, 
for  the  foot,  expanding  to  the  weight  of  the  horse,  enlarg- 
es the  hole  made  by  the  shoe,  and  leaves  more  space  for 
the  shoe  to  come  out  of  than  it  made  for  itself  to  go  in  at; 
but  if  the  shoe  projects  beyond  the  hoof  at  any  part-,  and 
more  particularly  at  the  heels,  the  foot  cannot  fill  the 
hole  made  by  the  shoe,  and  stiff  clay  will  cling  round  the 
projection  and  pull  the  shoe  off.  Having  so  far  finished 
the  shoe,  place  it  on  the  face  of  the  anvil  with  the  toe 
hanging  over  the  side,  and  see  that  the  foot  surface  of 
the  quarter  and  heels,  are  quite  level ;  then  make  it  hot 
enough  to  scorch  the  hoof  all  round  and  form  a  bed  for 
itself.  Without  this  it  would  be  next  to  impossible  to 
insure  close  fitting.  After  you  have  made  the  foot  as 
level  as  you  can  with  the  rasp,  and  the  shoe  as  level  as 
you  can  on  the  anvil,  the  chances  are  very  much  against 
their  fitting  like  two  planed  boards,  as  they  ought  to  do; 
and  the  quantity  of  horn  to  be  thus  removed  is  so  small 
as  not  to  be  worth  thinking  about.  It  is  a  mistake  to 
suppose  that  a  hot  shoe  injures  the  hoof;  it  does  noth- 
ing of  the  kind  and  you  cannot  possibly  fit  a  shoe  prop- 
erly without  making  it  hot.  I  would  not  have  you  burn 
a  shoe  into  its  place  on  the  foot  before  you  had  taken  care 


80  THE   HORSE   OWNER's 

to  make  both  the  foot  and  the  shoe  as  level,  but  when 
you  have  done  that,  the  small  quantity  of  burning  that 
is  necessary,  to  make  them  come  close  together  can  do  no 
harm.  T  have  said  before  that  a  weak,  thin  crust  will 
not  bear  as  much  heat  as  a  strong  one,  and  that  the  shoe 
should  be  applied  less  hot  to  it;  nevertheless,  it  must  be 
scorched,  that  you  may  be  sure  the  shoe  fits  properly. 
When  you  have  cooled  the  shoe,  you  should  "  buck-hole  " 
it ;  that  is,  make  free  openings  on  the  foot  surface  for  the 
nails  to  pass  through,  and  these  openings  should  be 
made  large  enough  to  take  the  shanks  of  the  nails,  and 
not  merely  the  thin  part  toward  these  points ;  and  mind 
that  in  opening  them  you  do  not  make  the  holes  incline 
inward,  but  take  great  care  to  make  them  pass  straight 
through  the  f=hoes.  Before  you  ''file  up  "  the  shoe,  hold 
it  firmly  in  its  place  on  the  foot  with  both  hands,  and  ex- 
amine carefully  whether  any  light  appears  between  the 
foot  and  the  shoe,  and  if  you  should  perceive  any,  alter 
the  shoe  at  once,  for  the  crust  must  bear  upon  the  shoe 
all  round,  before  you  can  say  the  shoe  fits  the  foot 
as  it  ought  to  do. 

NAILS,  AND  FILING  UP  THE  SHOE. 

I  must  say  a  few  words  about  the  nails  before  we  come 
to  filing  up  the  shoe  and  nailing  it  on,  because  the  nails 
in  common  use  are  as  badly  formed  as  they  well  can  be. 
Their  short,  wedge-shaped  heads,  wide  at  the  top  and  nar- 
row at  the  bottom,  with  shanks  springing  suddenly  from 
the  head  and  ending  in  a  long  narrow  point,  are  most  un- 
safe to  trust  a  shoe  to.  The  head  of  such  a  nail  can  nev- 
er perfectly  fill  the  hole  in  the  shoe,  for  the  wide  top  gets 
tied  either  on  the  fuller  or  tlie  upper  of  the  hole  before 
the  lower  part  has   reached   the    bottom;  and  when  the 


ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE.  81 

shoe  is  about  half  worn  out  the  head  of  the  nail  is  gone, 
and  the  shank  alone  is  left  in  the  hole  to  keep  the  shoe 
on.  Now,  the  nails  I  advise  you  to  use — and  yon  had 
better  always  make  them  for  yourself — should  have  heads 
which  are  straight- sided  at  the  upper  part,  and  gradually 
die  away  at  the  lower  part  into  the  shank,  so  as  to  form 
a  shoulder  which  will  entirely  block  the  bottom  of  the 
nail  hole;  the  point  at  the  end  of  the  shank  should  be 
short  and  broad,  to  enable  you  to  form  good  stout  clinch- 
es, which  will  assist  in  keeping  the  shoe  firmly  in  its  place 
till  it  is  quite  worn  out.  Your  nails  should  be  made  of 
the  very  best  nail  rods  yon  can  get,  and  they  should  not 
be  cooled  too  quickly,  but  left  spread  about  to  cool  by  de- 
grees. They  should  not,  however,  be  allowed  to  lie  in  a 
heap  to  cool ;  the  mass  keeps  in  the  heat  too  long,  and 
makes  them  almost  as  brittle  as  if  they  had  been  cooled 
too  suddenly.  Much  time  is  often  wasted  in  polishing 
the  shoe  with  the  file  before  it  is  nailed  on ;  but  all  that  is 
really  needed  is  to  remove  the  burs  about  the  holes,  file 
off  the  sharp  edges  of  the  shoe,  and  round  the  heels,  tak- 
ing care  to  apply  the  file  hard  to  that  part  of  both  heels 
which  comes  next  to  the  frog,  so  as  to  slant  it  from  the 
ground  upward  away  from  the  frog;  but  you  must  be 
careful  not  to  make  the  ground  surface  of  the  web  at  the 
heels  narrower  in  so  doing.  Fig.  1  shows  the  foot  surface, 
and  fig.  2  the  ground  surface  of  an  off  fore  shoe  ;  in  fig. 
.1,  A  is  the  clip  at  the  toe,  B  1  the  outer  quarter,  B  2  the 
inner  quarter,  C  1  the  outer  heel,  C  2  the  inner  heel ;  the 
dark  shade  represents  the  seating,  and  the  light  the  flat 
surface  for  the  crust  to  bear  upon.  In  fig.  2,  A  is  the 
toe  turned  up  out  of  the  line  of  wear,  B  1  the  outer,  and 
B  2  the  inner  quarter,  0  1    the  outer  and  0   2  the  inner 


82  •       THE   HOESE   OWNER's 

heel;  the  light'shade  represerits  the  ground  surface  of  the 
web  as  wide  at  the  heels  as  it  is  at  the  toe ;  the  dark  line 
representing  the  fuller  carried  hack  no  farther  than  is  re- 
quired for  the  nails,  so  that  the  shoe  may  not  be  weak- 
ened unnecssarily. 

NAIIiIHG  ON  THE  SHOE. 
If  the  nails  are  of  a  proper  shape,  the  holes  straight 
through  the  shoe,  and  the  shoe  fits  the  foot,  it  requires 
vrey  little  skill  to  nail  it  on ;  only  pat  the  point  of  the 
nail  in  the  middle  of  the  hole,  keep  the  nail  upright,  and 
drive  it  straight — it  must  come  out  in  the  right  place, 
low  down  in  the  crust,  without  the  possibility  of  wound- 
ing the  sensitive  parts  of  the  foot.  The  shank  of  the  nail 
will  pass  straight  through  the  substance  of  the  crust,  and 
gain  a  good  firm  hold  of  it,  leaving  you  the  strongest 
part  from  which  to  form  a  clinch.  The  clinches  should 
be  short  and  broad,  and  not  thinned  by  rasping  away  any 
of  their  substance,  but  hammered  at  once  into  a  slight 
notch  made  in  the  hoof  under  each;  and  the  rasp  should 
never  be  allowed  to  go  over  them  after  they  have  been 
hammered  down,  for  the  sharp  steel  rasp  is  almost  sure  to 
cut  through  the  soft  iron  clinch  just  where  it  turns  down, 
and  leave  the  appearance  of  a  clinch,  when,  in  truth,  it 
has  been  cut  off  at  the  bend,  and  the  loose  end  only  re- 
mains buried  in  the  notch  in  the  hoof.  You  will  do  good 
by  rasping  below  the  clinches,  because  you  will  thereby 
remove  the  broken  horn  that  the  former  nails  have  de- 
stroyed ;  but  on  no  account  ever  use  the  rasp  above  the 
clinches;  if  you  do  you  will  cut  off  the  thin  outer  cover- 
ing of  the  hoof,  which  is  placed  there  to  prevent  the  es- 
cape of  the  natural  moisture  and  to  keep  the  horn  tough ; 
and  if  you  rasp  it  away  you  will  expose  the  horn  to  the 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  83 

air,  and  it  will  soon  become  dry  and  brittle,  and  make 
the  hoof  difficult  to  nail  to.  This  thin  covering  of  the 
hoof  is  like  the  shining  covering  of  a  man's  finger-nail ; 
and  most  people  know  from  experience  how  dry  and  brittle 
and  easily  broken  a  finger-nail  becomes  when  by  any 
accident  it  loses  that  covering. 

SHOEING  WITH  LEATHER. 
Many  tender- footed  horses  travel  best  with  a  covering 
over  the  sole,  and  leather  is  commonly  used  for  the  pur- 
pose.    You   must  fit  the  shoe   to  the  foot  with  as  much 
care  as  if  nothing  were  to  be  put  under  it ;    when  it  is 
"  filed  up  "  and  ready  to  be  put  on,  lay  it  with  the  foot 
surface  downward  on  the  leather,  and  mark  the  form  of  the 
shoe  upon  it  with  the  end  of  a  drawing  knife ;    then   cut 
the  piece  out  and  pat  it  in  its  place  upon  the  shoe  and  fix 
them  both  in  a  vise,  which  will  hold  them  close  together 
while  you  carefully  cut  the  edge  of  the  covering  till  it 
agrees  with  the  edge  of  the  shoe  ;    then  turn  them  in  the 
vise  together  so  as  to  bring  the  heels  of  the  shoe  upper- 
most, and  cut  out  a  piece  from  heel  to  heel  slightly  curved 
downward  in  the  center,  that  nothing  may  be  left  project- 
ing for  the  ground  to  lay  hold  of.     The  next  thing  to  be 
done  is  to  smear  the  whole  of  the  under  surface  of  the 
foot  with  common  tar  mixed  with  a  little  grease;  but  be 
sure  that  you  never  use  gas  tar  instead  of  pine  tar,  for  it 
dries  up  the  horn  and  makes  it  as  hard  as  flint,  whereas 
common  tar  keeps  it  moist  and  tough.      Then  you  must 
fill  the  hollow  between  the  frog  and  the    crust  on    both 
sides  with  oakum   or  tow  dipped    in  the  tar,  pressing  it 
well  into  the  hollow,  till  the  mass  rises  above  the  level  of 
the  frog  on  each  side,  but  never  put  any  oakum  or  tow 
upon  the  frog  itself,  excepting  a  piece  in  the  cleft  to  pre- 


84  THE  HORSE  ow:ner's 

vent  the  dirt  and  grit  working  in.  Very  little  is  ever 
wanted  on  the  sole  in  front  of  the  frog.  The  use  of  the 
oakum  is  to  protect  the  foot,  but  more  especially  the 
maricular  joint,  which  lies  above  and  across  the  frog,  from 
being  jarred  by  stones  on  a  hard  road ;  and  the  best  way 
of  doing  this  is  to  fill  the  space  on  each  side  of  the  frog 
with  oakum,  in  such  a  manner  that  it  shall  share  the 
pressure  with  the  frog,  and  prevent  the  full  force  of  the 
shock  from  falling  on  the  maricular  joint.  You  must  now 
nail  on  the  shoe  exactly  as  you  would  do  if  there  was 
nothing  under  it;  and,  if  you  have  attended  to  the  fitting, 
there  will  be  no  fear  of  the  shoe's  liftino:  or  comino^  off. 
THE  HIND  SHOE. 
The  hind  shoe,  like  the  fore  shoe,  should  be  brought  in 
at  the  heels  and  be  made  to  follow  the  exact  shape  of  the 
hoof;  but,  as  the  weight  of  the  horse  falls  differently  on 
the  hind  feet  from  what  it  does  on  the  fore  feet,  and  as  the 
rider  often  obliges  the  horse  to  stop  suddenly  and  without 
warning,  when  he  is  least  prepared  to  do  so,  it  becomes 
necessary  to  guard  against  strains  of  the  hock  and  back 
sinews  by  raising  the  heels  of  the  shoe;  but  this  should 
be  done  in  such  a  manner  as  will  give  both  heels  an  even 
bearing  on  the  ground.  Calkins  may  be,  and  I  believe 
are  useful  to  heavy  draught  horses,  but  they  are  objection- 
able to  fast  work.  And  turning  down  the  outside  heel 
alone  ^should  never  be  done  ;  it  throws  the  weight  upon 
the  inner  quarter,  which  is  the  least  able  to  bear  it,  and 
strains  the  fetlock  joint.  The  plan  I  have  adopted  for 
many  years  is  to  have  the  last  inch-and-a-half  toward 
the  heel  forged  deeper  and  thicker  than  any  other  part 
of  the  shoe.  The  heels  are  then  made  red-hot,  and 
the  shoe  is  put  in  a  vise  with  the  hot  heels  projecting, 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  85 

which  are  beaten  down  with  a  hammer  till  they  are  about 
an  inch  long,  and  then  the  sides  are  made  even,  and  the 
foot  and  ground  surfaces  level  on  the  anvil.  1  have  found 
horses  travel  pleasanter,  and  receive  less  damage  to  their 
hocks,  back  sinews,  and  fetlock  joints  with  these  heels  to 
their  hind  shoes,  than  they  have  with  any  others  that  I 
have  tried.  The  toe  of  the  hind  shoe  is  exposed  to  great 
wear,  and  should  be  made  stout  and  thick,  and  rather 
pointed,  with  a  small  clip  in  the  middle  to  prevent  the 
shoe  from  being  driven  backward  ;  and  the  back  edge  of 
the  web  should  be  rounded  off  to  guard  against  "  over- 
reach." The  toe  should  rest  fairly  on  the  ground  to  en- 
able the  horse  to  get  a  good  purchase  for  throwing  his 
weight  forward.  It  is  a  bad  plan  to  make  the  toe  broad, 
and  to  place  clips  at  the  side  of  it;  it  is  nearly  certain  to 
cause  the  very  evil  it  was  intended  to  prevent,  by  making 
the  horse  "  forge,"  as  it  is  called.  Many  persons  think 
that  "  forging"  is  caused  by  the  front  of  the  toe  of  the 
hind  shoe  striking  against  the  heel  of  the  fore  shoe,  but 
that  is  a  mistake.  The  sound  is  produced  in  this  way. 
When  the  horse  raises  his  fore  foot  from  the  ground  and 
does  not  instantly  throw  it  forward,  but  dwells  in  the  ac- 
tion, the  hind  foot  following  quickly  is  forced  into  the 
opening  of  the  fore  shoe  before  the  fore  foot  gets  out  of 
the  way,  and  the  corners  ^f  the  broad  toe,  made  still 
broader  by  the  clips  at  the  sides,  are  struck  against  the 
inner  rim  of  the  web  of  the  fore  shoe  on  each  side  just 
behind  the  quarter,  and  cause  the  unpleasant  clicking 
sound.  The  way  to  avoid  this  disagreeable  noise  is  to 
make  the  hind  shoe  narrow  at  the  toe,  and  rather  pointed, 
with  a  small  clip  in  the  centre,  and  to  leave  the  hoof 
projecting    beyond   the   shoe   across   the    toe.     Then  the 


86  THE   HOESE   OWNER's 

projecting  horn  of  tlie  hind  foot  will  enter  the  opening  of 
the  fore  shoe,  heki  up  to  receive  it,  and  be  stopped  by  the 
sole  or  frog  before  any  part  of  the  two  shoes  can  come 
together,  and  the  noise  will  cease.  I  have  said  that  you 
should  round  off  the  back  edge  of  the  web  at  the  toe  to 
prevent  an  "  over-reach."  It  is  commonly  supposed  that 
this  also  is  done  by  the  front  of  the  toe,  whereas  it  is  al- 
ways done  by  the  back  edge,  which  in  a  well-worn  shoe, 
becomes  as  sharp  as  a  knife.  Now,  if  the  horse,  in  gal- 
loping, does  not  lift  up  his  fore  foot  from  the  ground 
and  throw  it  forward  in  time  to  make  way  for  the  hind 
foot,  the  hind  foot  over-reaches  it  and  cuts  a  piece  out  of 
the  soft  parts  above  the  heel,  and  produces  a  very  trouble- 
some wound.  The  hind  foot  expands  less  than  the  fore 
foot;  still  you  should  place  the  nail  holes  so  as  not  to 
confine  the  foot.  For  some  years  I  shod  my  light  horses, 
as  an  experiment,  with  only  six  nails  in  each  hind  shoe, 
and  I  found  it  to  answer  very  well  for  them  ;  but  six  were 
not  enough  to  prevent  the  hind  shoes  of  my  large  carriage 
horses  from  occasionally  shifting  on  their  feet.  I  therefore 
shod  them  with  seven ;  and  I  recommend  you,  as  a  gen- 
eral rule,  to  put  seven  nails  into  the  hind  shoes  of  all 
hunters  and  other  horses  that  are  likely  to  be  frequently 
called  upon  to  exert  their  muscular  powers  to  the  fullest 
extent.  The  holes  on  the  inside  should  be  stamped 
closer  together  than  those  on  the  outside,  and  they  should 
be  placed  forward  towards  the  toe,  so  as  to  leave  the  in- 
side quarter  and  heel  free  to  expand.  A  small  foot  can  be 
safely  shod  with  six  nails,  and  no  foot  can  ever  require 
more  than  seven. 

CUTTIWG. 
Horses  strike  their  feet  against  the  opposite  leg  in  such 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  87 

a  variety  of  ways  both  before  and  behind,  that  it  is  im- 
possible to  form  a  shoe  that  would  suit  every  case  of 
**  cutting"."  I  therefore  advise  you,  whether  the  horse  cuts 
before  or  behind,  to  fasten  something  like  a  boot,  covered 
thickly  with  melted  pipe-clay  or  chalk,  over  the  place 
where  he  strikes  the  leg,  and  then  trot  him  along  the  road. 
He  will  soon  pick  off  some  of  the  pipe-clay  with  the 
opposite  foot,  and  show  you  the  exact  part  of  the  shoe  he 
strikes  with,  which  you  can  easily  alter  in  the  new  shoe ; 
and  you  will  often  be  surprised  to  see  how  small  a  matter 
causes  the  mischief. 

REMOVING. 

The  time  at  which  horses'  shoes  should  be  removed 
must  depend  very  much  upon  circumstances.  If  a  horse 
wears  his  shoe  out  in  less  than  a  month,  they  had  better 
not  be  removed  ;  and  horses  with  thin,  weak  horns  which 
grow  slowly  are  likewise  better  left  alone  between  each 
shoeing  unless  their  shoes  last  sexen  or  eight  weeks  ;  in 
which  case  they  should  be  removed  once  within  the  time. 
But  horses  with  strong  feet  and  plenty  of  horn,  that  wear 
their  shoes  four  or  five  weeks,  should  have  them  removed 
at  the  end  of  a  fortnight  ;  and  when  horses  are  doing  so 
little  work,  or  wear  their  shoes  so  lightly  that  they  last 
over  two  months,  they  should  be  removed  every  two  or 
three  weeks,  and  at  the  second  removal  the  shoe  should 
be  put  into  the  fire  and  refitted,  or  the  feet  will  outgrow 
the  shoes,  as  the  horn  grows  much  quicker  when  a  horse 
is  idle  than  it  does  when  he  is  in  full  work. 

THE  BAR  SHOE. 

As    shown  in  the   accompanying  figure,   consists   of  a 
complete  ring  of  iron,  similar   to  the  ordinary  shoe  as  far 


SS  THE   HORSE   OWN 

as  the  back  of  the  quarters,  but  from  that  part  bending 
inward  to  meet  the  web  of  the  opposite  side,  with  which 
it  is  welded.  It  may  be  used  for  two  purposes.  In  one 
case  the  foot  is  so  prepared  that  the  frog  shall  touch  the 
shoe,  while  the  heels  are  quite  free  and  relieved  from 
pressure.  In  the  other  the  bar  is  hollowed  out  so  that 
the  frog  is  relieved,  and  the  pressure  brought  on  the  heels. 
It  is  specially  valuable  for  tender  frogs,  or,  when  these  are 
sound,  for  corns  and  weak  heels  and  quarters.  The  leather 
sole,  which  has  been  minutely  described,  is  used  with 
great  benefit  on  horses  with  high  action,  and  having  weak 
soles  or  frogs,  or  with  tender  feet  from  laminitis.  It  serves 
to  take  off  the  jar  from  the  feet,  and  prevents  stones  from 
bruising  the  sole.  The  French  shoe  differs  from  the  Eng- 
lish form  in  both  its  surfaces ;  that  wdiich  comes  in  con- 
,tact  with  the  foot  being  concave,  while  the  other  is  con- 
vex. To  make  it  fit  the  foot,  the  toe  and  heels  of  the 
latter  must  be  pared  away  and  ma'le  to  fit  the  shoe.  The 
web  is  very  wide,  punched  with  eight  counter-sunk  nail 
holes,  the  English  plan  of  fullering  not  being  adopted. 

The  holes  are  are  also  punched  fully  the  third  of  an  inch 
from  the  edge  of  the  shoe,  and  the  nails  are  'driven  in  a 
very  great  slant. 

To  Prevent  Overreaching  or  Clicking.  —  Shoe 
your  horses  heavy  forward  (two-pound  shoe),  making  the 
heel  of  the  shoe  twice  the  thickness  of  the  toe ;  the  hind 
shoe  made  short,  marrow  web,  and  very  light,  with  toe 
twice  the  thickness  of  the  heel.  Placing  the  heavy  shoes 
to  the  forward  feet  will  cause  him  to  lift  his  feet  with  more 
energy  ;  also,  the  heels  of  his  forward  feet  and  th.e  toes  of 
his  hind  feet  will  so  reverse  the  action  that,  in  the  majority 
of  cases,  they  will  travel  clear. 


ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE.  .  89 

My  Plan  for  Interfering  with  the  Hind  Feet. — 
I  think  we  can  safely  say  that  more  than  half  of  the  horses 
now  in  use  are  animals  that  cut  their  ankles,  and  it  is  a 
great  objection.  A  horse  of  tliat  kind  is  rejected  by  many 
dealers ;  but  we  argue  that  if  they  are  properly  shod,  the 
cause  can  be  removed.  The  habit  that  smiths  in  general 
have  of  leaving  the  inside  of  the  shoe  twice  the  thickness 
of  the  outer  side  is  all  wrong.  The  shoe  should  be  narrow 
web  and  very  light ;  each  side  of  the  same  thickness.  The 
toe-calk  should  be  welded  to  the  toe  one-half  inch  inside  of 
the  centre,  leaving  the  inside  of  said  calk  the  highest ; 
heel-calks  the  same  hight.  By  so  doing  the  outside  of  the 
shoe  is  one  inch  longer  than  the  inside.  It  is  now  neces- 
sary to  pare  the  outside  of  the  foot  to  the  lowest.  Your 
shoe  is  now  made  fast  to  the  foot  with  five  nails — three 
on  the  outside  and  two  on  the  inner ;  also,  three  clips,  one 
at  the  toe  and  one  at  each  side. 

Interfering  with  Forward  Feet. — I  have  known 
valuable  horses,  and  fast  trotting  horses,  to  cut  their  ankles 
inside  of  the  leg,  and  quite  often  the  knee,  and  badly,  too, 
with  the  shoe  of  the  opposite  foot;  and  we  think  the  plan 
we  adopt  a  good  one.  The  outer  web  of  the  shoe  should  be 
narrow  and  light,  the  inner  wide  and  heavy,  with  the  out- 
side of  the  hoof  pared  the  lowest.  When  all  other  plans 
have  failed,  this  has  proved  effectual. 

Quarter-Orack. — Much  has  been  said,  and  various 
plans  (fevised,  by  which  to  heal  a  quarter-crack,  such  as 
scoring  with  a  knife,  blistering,  cutting  with  a  sharp,  hot 
iron,  riveting,  and  the  like ;  all  which  in  some  cases,  have 
proved  a  failure.  Now,  let  me  say,  if  you  will  follow  my 
directions,  you  will  have  a  sound  foot  in  three  months. 


90  •  THE   HORSE   OWNER'S 

Above  the  crack,  and  next  to  the  hair,  cut  with  yonr  knife 
an  incision  one-half  inch  long,  crosswise  of  the  crack,  and 
one-eighth  or  one-sixteenth  inch  deep.  Now,  from  the 
incision,  draw  a  line,  one-quarter  inch  each  side,  parallel 
with  the  crack,  down  to  the  shoe  ;  witli  your  knife  follow 
those  lines,  and  cut  through  the  enamel  or  crust  of  the  foot. 
You  see,  now,  there  is  apiece  of  the  crust  to  be  taken  out; 
this  is  done  by  loosening  the  top  of  the  piece  next  to  the 
hair  with  your  knife.  Then,  with  your  forceps,  take  hold 
of  the  piece  and  pull  it  off;  that  leaves  a  space  of  one-half 
inch  of  the  crust  taken  out  from-  the  hair  down  to  the  shoe. 
Fill  the  cavity  with  tar,  and  lace  on  a  soft  piece  of  leather 
to  keep  the  tar  in  its  place.  Keep  him  quiet  for  three  or 
four  days,  and  he  is  ready  to  drive.  Shoe  with  a  bar  shoe, 
leaving  some  spring  to  the  heel,  so  that  it  will  not  bear 
hard  upon  the  weak  quarter,  and  in  three  months  you  will 
have  a  sound  foot.     Try  it. 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  91 


Riding  and  Driving. 


BIDING. 

The  accoutrements  and  aids  required  are  a  saddle,  bri- 
dle, and  a  whip  or  stick.  Spurs  are  not  commonly  used 
unless  the  horse  is  sluggish ;  but  some  are  never  to  be  de- 
pended upon  without  this  stimulus.  They  are  sometimes 
so  indolent  as  to  stumble  at  every  few  yards  without  the 
spur,  but  on  the  slightest  touch  they  are  all  alive,  and 
their  action  changes  in  a  moment.  With  such  animals 
the  spur  should  always  be  worn,  though  it  need  seldom 
be   used. 

MOUNTITJ-G-  AND  DISMOUNTING. 

The  directions  for  these,  the  preliminary  feats  of  horse- 
manship, are  generally  given  as  if  all  horses  were  of  mod- 
erate height,  and  all  men  six  feet  in  their  stockings, 
Thus  Captain  Richardson  in  his  recent  contributions  to 
"  sporting  "  literature,  advises  as  follows  :  "  Stand  opposite 
the  near  fore  foot  of  the  horse,  place  the  left  hand  on  the 
neck,  near  to  the  withers,  having  the  back  of  the  hand  to 
the  horse's  head,  and  the  reins  lying  in  front  of  the  hand. 
Take  up  the  reins  with  the  right  hand,  put  the  little  fin- 
ger of  the  left  hand  between  them,  and  draw  them 
through  until  you  feel  the  mouth  of  the  horse  ;  turn  the 
remainder  of  the  reins  along  the  side  of  the  left  hand,  let 


92  ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE. 

it  fall  over  tlie  fore-finger  on  the  off  side,  and  pkce  the 
thumb  upon  the  reins.  Twist  a  lock  of  the  mane  round 
the  thumb  or  fore-finger,  and  close  the  hand  firmly  upon 
the  reins.  Take  the  stirrup  in  the  right  hand  and  place 
the  left  toe  in  it  as  far  as  the  ball ;  let  the  knee  press 
ao-ainst  the  flap  of  the  saddle  to  prevent  the  point  of  the 
toe  from  irritating  the.  side  of  the  horse ;  seize  the  cantle 
of  the  saddle  with  the  right  hand,  and  springing  from  the 
right  toe,  throw  the  right  leg  clear  over  the  horse,  com- 
ing gently  into  the  saddle  by  staying  the  weight  of  the 
body  with  the  right  hand  resting  on  the  right  side  of  the 
pommel  of  the  saddle;  put  the  right  toe  in  the  stirrup." 
Now,  this  is,  in  the  main,  applicable  to  a  man  of  five  feet 
ten  inches  or  six  feet ;  but  to  a  shorter  individnal,  at- 
tempting to  mount  a  horse  of  fifteen  hands,  it  is  an  im- 
possibility, simply  because  he  cannot  reach  the  cantle 
from  the  same  position  which  enables  him  to  hold  the 
stirrup  in  his  left  hand.  The  Captain  is  also  wrong,  in 
my  opinion,  in  directing  that  the  body  should  be  raised 
into  the  saddle  directly  from  the  ground,  with  one  move- 
ment. This  will  always  bring  the  rider  down  into  the 
saddle  wath  a  very  awkward  jerk;  and  the  proper  direc- 
tion is  to  raise  the  body  straight  up,  till  both  feet  are  on 
a  level  with  the  stirrup  iron,  and  then,  with  the  left  leg. 
held  against  the  flap  of  the  saddle  by  the  left  hand  on  the 
pommel,  the  right  leg  is  easily  thrown  over  the  cantle, 
and  the  body  may  be  kept  in  the  first  position  until  the 
horse  is  quiet,  if  he  is  plunging  or  rearing.  A  short  man 
can  generally  place  his  foot  in  the  stirrup  while  in  his 
hand,  but  it  should  be  known  that  all  cannot  do  this, 
because  I  have  seen  young*  riders  much  vexed  at  finding 
that  they  could  not  possibly  do  what  is  directed. 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  93 

In  all  Ceases  the  rider  should  stand  at  the  shoulder, 
though  with  a  short  man,  it  is  mnch  easier  to  mount  a  tall 
horse  from  the  hind-quarter.  If  the  hand  c^n  steady  the 
stirrup  it  should  do  so,  but  if  the  person  is  too  short  it 
can  be  placed  in  the  stirrup  without  its  aid;  then,  tak- 
ing the  reins  between  the  fingers,  much  as  directed  in  the 
passage  already  quoted,  and  grasping  a  lock  of  the  mane 
with  the  finger  and  thumb,  the  body  is  raised  till  the 
right  foot  is  brought  to  a  level  with  the  left,  when  the 
right  hand  seizes  the  cantle,  and  with  the  left  grasping 
the  pommel,  the  body  is  steadied  for  a  short  time,  which 
in  the  ordinary  mount  is  almost  imperceptible,  but  in  a 
fidgety  horse  is  sometimes  of  considerable  length.  The 
leg  is  now  thrown  gently  over  the  saddle,  and  as  it  reach- 
es the  hand  the  latter  is  withdrawn,  after  which  the  body 
sinks  into  the  saddle  in  an  easy  and  graceful  manner. 
The  right  foot  is  then  placed  in  the  stirrup,  with  or  with- 
out the  aid  of  the  right  hand  holding  it.  Dismounting  is 
effected  by  first  bringing  the  horse  to  a  stand-still ;  then 
shorten,  the  left  hand  on  the  reins,  till  it  lies  on  the  with- 
ers, with  a  steady  feel  of  the  mouth,  twist  a  lock  of  the 
mane  on  the  finger,  and  hold  it  with  the  reins;  bearing 
also  Oil  the  pommel  with  the  heel  of  the  hand.  Next, 
throw  the  right  foot  out  of  the  stirrup,  and  lift  the  body, 
steadied  by  the  left  hand  and  borne  by  the  left  foot,  un- 
til it  is  raised  out  of  the  saddle  ;  throw  gently  the  right 
leg  over  the  cantle,  and,  as  it  passes  it,  grasp  this  part 
with  the  right  hand ;  then  lower  the  body  gently  to  the 
ground  by  the  aid  of  the  two  hands  and  left  foot;  or  if  it 
is  a  very  short  person  and  a  tall  horse,  by  raising  the  body 
out  of  the  stirrup  on  the  hands,  and  dropping  to  the 
ground  by   their  aid  alone.     Mounting    without  stirrups, 


94  THE   HORSE   OWNEK's 

while  the  horse  is  standing  still,  is  effected  as  follows. 
The  rider  stands  opposite  the  saddle  and  takes  hold  of 
both  the  pommel  and  cantle,  keeping  the  reins  in  the  left 
hand  at  the  same  time,  and  in  the  same  manner  as  in  an 
ordinary  mounting.  Now  spring  strongly  from  the  ground, 
and  by  means  of  the  spring,  aided  by  the  arms,  raise  the 
body  above  the  saddle;  then  twist  the  leg  over,  whilst 
the  right  hand  is  shifted  to  the  right  side  of  the  pommel, 
and  by  means  of  both  the  hands  the  body  is  steadied  into 
the  saddle.  Mounting  without  stirrups  may,  by  very  ac- 
tive men,  be  effected  while  the  horse  is  going  on,  much  in 
the  same  way  as  is  seen  constantly  in  the  circus.  The 
rider  runs  by  the  side  of  the  horse,  laying  hold  of  the 
pommel  of  the  saddle  with  both  hands  strongly,  and,  al- 
lowing him  to  drag  him  along  for  two  or  three  very  long 
steps,  he  suddenly  springs  from  the  ground  and  is  drawn 
into  the  saddle.  This  feat  is  seldom  achieved  by  the  or- 
dinary equestrian ;  but  it  is  easier  than  it  looks,  and  is 
sometimes  of  great  service  with  a  fidgety  horse.  Dis- 
mounting without  stirrups,  requires  the  horse  to  be 
brought  to  a  stand-still,  then,  holding  the  reins  in  the  left 
hand  both  are  placed  upon  the  pommel,  and  by  their  aid 
alone  the  body  is  raised  out  of  the  saddle ;  the  right  leg 
is  now  thrown  over  the  cantle,  and  in  doing  so  the  right 
hand  seizes  it,  and  with  the  left  lowers  the  body  to  the 
ground.  Mounting  and  dismounting  on  the  off  side  mere- 
ly requires  all  the  movements  to  be  reversed,  and,  reading 
left  for  right  and  right  for  left,  all  the  directions  pre- 
viously given  are  applicable.  It  is  very  useful  sometimes 
to  be  able  to  effect  this,  as  some  horses  with  defective  eyes 
will  more  readily  allow  mounting  on  the  off  side  than  on 
the  left. 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  95 

MANAGEMENT  OP  THE  SEAT  AND  REINS. 

The  seat  is  the  first  thing  to  be  settled,  and  it  should 
always  be  fixed  before  anything  else  is  done — that  is,  as 
soon  as  the  body  is  placed  in  the  saddle.  There  are  four 
things  necessary  to  be  attended  to — first  the  position  of 
the  weight,  so  as  to  be  sufficiently  forward  in  the  saddle  ; 
secondly,  the  fixing  of  the  knees  on  the  paddle  part  of  the 
flap;  thirdly,  the  proper  length  and  position  of  the  stir- 
rup ;  and  fourthly,  the  carriage  of  the  body.  The  weight 
of  the  body  should  be  well  forward,  because  the  centre  of 
motion  is  close  to  the  middle  of  the  saddle ;  and  as  the 
weight  is  chieflly  thrown  upon  the  breech,  if  the  seat  is  far 
back  it  is  not  in  that  part,  but  near  the  cantle  that  it  is 
placed.  But  by  sitting  well  forward,  the  weight  is  dis- 
tributed between  the  breech,  thighs  and  feet,  and  the  horse 
is  able  to  rise  and  fall  in  his  gallop  without  disturbing 
his  rider.  The  knees  must  be  well  forward  to  effect  this 
seat,  and  also  well  in  front  of  the  stirrup-leather;  for  if 
they  are  placed  behind  them  the  body  is  thrown  too  far 
back,  and  the  hold  is  insecure.  The  object  of  all  young 
riders  should  be  to  get  as  far  forward  as  possible,  so  that 
the  knee  is  not  off  the  saddle ;  and  they  can  scarcely  over- 
do this  part  of  the  lesson  by  any  effort  in  their  power. 
The  stirrups  must  not  be  too  short.  These  should  be  about 
the  length  which  will  touch  the  projecting  ankle  bone, 
when  the  legs  are  placed  as  above  directed,  but  out  of  the 
stirrups,  and  when  they  are  placed  in  them  the  heel  should 
be  about  an  inch  and  a  half  below  the  ball  of  the  foot. 
This  latter  part  receives  the  pressure  of  the  stirrup  in 
road  riding,  but  in  field-riding  or  racing,  the  foot  is  thrust 
"  home,"  and  the  stirrup  touches  the  instep,  whilst  the 
pressure  is  taken  by  the    under  part  of  the  arch   of  the 


96  THE   HORSE   OWNER's 

foot.  The  reason  of  this  is  that,  in  leaping,  the  pressure 
on  the  stirrup  is  ahnost  lost,  and  if  the  toe  only  is  placed 
within  it,  the  foot  is  constantly  coming  out.  Besides  this, 
in  the  gallop,  the  attitude  is  of  that  nature  that  the  spring 
of  the  instep  is  not  wanted,  the  weight  being  too  much 
thrown  upon  the  foot,  if  standing  in  the  stirrups;  and  if 
sitting  down  in  the  saddle,  the  feet  should  scarcely  press 
upon  the  stirrups  at  all,  and,  therefore,  the  best  place  for 
them  is  where  they  will  be  most  secure.  The  body  should 
not  be  held  stifly  upright,  but,  short  of  this,  it  can  scarce- 
ly be  too  still,  the  loins  being  slightly  arched  forward. 
The  legs  also  should  be  as  motionless  as  possible,  and 
nearly  perpendicular  from  the  knee  downwards;  but  if 
any  thing  a  little  forward,  the  heel  being  well  depressed, 
and  the  toe  very  slightly  turned  outward.  The  shoulder 
should  always  be  square — that  is,  at  right  angles  to  the 
road  taken ;  and  whether  trotting  or  galloping,  neither  of 
them  should  be  advanced  before  the  other.  The  reins  are 
to  be  taken  up  as  soon  as  the  seat  is  settled,  and,  during 
that  operation,  with  a  young  horseman,  the  horse  should 
be  held  quiet  by  the  groom,  who  stands  on  the  off  side  with 
both  the  snaffle  reins  in  his  right  hand ;  or.  if  the  horse  is 
very  fidgety,  he  may  stand  in  front  of  him,  with  a  snaifle- 
rein  in  each  hand  ;  and  this  almost  always  keeps  quiet  any 
but  a  thoroughly  vicious  horse. 

The  groom  should  also  hold  the  right  stirrup  for  the 
rider  to  place  his  foot  in.  In  gathering  the  reins  up,  they 
are  first  raised  by  the  right  hand,  and  then  placed  in  the 
left.  The  single  rein  is  held  by  placing  all  but  the  fore- 
finoer  between  the  reins,  and  then  turnins^  them  over  that 
finger  toward  the  off  side,  they  are  held  firmly  between  it 
and  the  thumb.     By  this  mode  the  hand  has  only  to  be 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  97 

opened,  and  tlie  ends  of  the  rein  may  be  laid  liold  of  by 
the  right  hand  to  enable  the  left  to  shorten  its  grasp. 
When  the  hand  is  thus  closed  upon  the  rein,  the  thumb 
shoiild  be  pointed  to  the  horse's  ears,  the  little  finger  near 
upon  the  pommel  of  the  saddle,  and  the  elbow  close  to 
the  side,  which  last  is  a  necessary  consequence  of  the 
above  position  of  the  hand;  so  that  the  equestrian  has 
only  to  look  at  this  part  and  see  that  the  thumb  points  to 
the  ear,  with  the  little  finger  down  on  the  pommel,  and 
he  may  be  quite  sure  that  his  elbow  is  right.  When  the 
hand  is  held  in  violation  of  this  rule,  the  elbow  is  almost 
sure  to  be  thrown  from  the  side,  and  the  attitude  is  there- 
fore unsightly,  besides  which  there  is  less  control  over  the 
mouth  by  the  action  of  the  wrist.  With  the  single  rein, 
the  management  of  the  mouth  is  easy  enough ;  neverthe- 
less there  ar6  various  directions  for  the  purpose,  adopted  iu 
different  schools,  which  are  dependent  upon  altogether 
conflicting  principles.  Every  tyro  knows  that  the  horse 
turns  to  the  left  by  pulling  the  left  rein,  and  to  the  right 
by  pulling  the  opposite  one ;  and  the  problem  to  be  solved 
is  to  do  this  by  one  hand  only.  This,  in  the  single  rein, 
is  easily  effected  by  raising  the  thumb  toward  the  right 
shoulder,  when  the  right  rein  is  to  be  pulled,  or  by  draw- 
ing the  little  finger  toward  the  fork  for  the  left;  in  both 
cases  by  a  turn  of  the  wrist,  without  lifting  the  whole 
hand.  But,  over  and  above  this  action  on  the  mouth,  and 
in  many  cases  independent  of  it,  is  a  movement  which,  in 
trained  horses,  is  capable  of  much  greater  delicacy,  and 
which  depends  on  the  sensibility  of  the  skin  of  the  neck 
for  its  due  performance.  It  is  effected  by  turning  the 
whole  hand  to  the  right  or  left,  without  any  wrist  action, 
so  as  to  press  the  right  rein  against  the  neck  in  order  to 


98  THE   HOESE   OWNER's 

cause  a  turn  to  the  left,  and  the  left  rein  against  the  neck 
for  the  opposite  purpose ;  at  the  same  time  rather  slacken- 
ing the  rein,  so  as  not  to  bear  upon  the  mouth  by  so  doing. 
In  this  way  a  horse  may  be  "  cantered  round  a  cabbage 
leaf,"  as  the  dealers  say,  with  a  much  greater  degree  of 
nicety  and  smoothness  than  by  acting  on  the  corner  of  his 
mouth.  But  highly  broken  horses,  such  as  the  military 
troop-horses,  are  often  too  much  used  to  their  bits  to  an- 
swer to  this  slight  and  delicate  manipulation;  and,  there- 
fore, it  is  eschewed  by  Captain  Richardson,  as  well  as  by 
Colonel  Greenwood.  I  am  well  aware  that  some  horses 
never  can  be  taught  it,  but  must  always  have  the  bearing 
on  the  mouth  before  they  will  turn ;  yet,  when  it  can  be 
taught,  it  makes  the  animal  so  tractable  and  as^reeable  to 
ride  that  it  is  a  highly  desirable  accomplishment,  and  I 
cannot,  therefore,  join  in  condemning  its  use,  but  should 
rejoice  if  it  could  in  all  cases  be  fully  developed. 

The  double  rein  is  held  in  two  ways,  but  the  best,  in 
my  opinion,  is  as  follows  :  First,  take  up  the  snaffle-rein 
and  place  it  as  before,  except  that  the  left  rein  is  to  be 
between  the  ring  and  middle  fingers  ;  then  raise  the  curb- 
rein  and  hook  it  on  to  the  little  finger ;  where  it  may  either 
be  left  for  use  when  wanted,  or  at  once  drawn  over  the 
fore-finger  to  the  proper  degree  of  tightness,  and  pressed 
down  upon  it  by  the  thumb ;  in  which  case  the  reins 
should  all  fall  over  the  off  side  of  the  horse.  By  this 
mode  the  curb-rein  is  always  at  the  command  of  the  right 
band,  and  it  may  be  shortened  or  let  out  in  a  moment, 
which  is  of  constant  occurrence  in  every  day's  ride.  The 
hand  is  held  as  before,  with  the  thumb  pointing  to  the 
horse's  ears;  in  turning,  however,  there  is  much  less  power 
of  bearing  on  either  side  of  the  bit  by  raising  the  thumb 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  U^ 

or  lowerino:  the  little  finorer,  because  the  distance  between 
the  snaffle-rein  is  only  half  what  it  was,  and  therefore  the 
mode  of  turning  by  pressure  upon  the  neck  is  doubly  de- 
sirable; and  hence  its  constant  adoption  in  all  cases  where 
double  reine'l  bridles  are  used,  as  in  the  field  and  on  the 
road.  Sometimes  to  obviate  this  objection,  the  snaffle- 
reins  are  placed  as  in  the  single-reined  bridle,  outside  the 
little  finger,  and  then  the  curb  is  hooked  over  the  ring 
finger,  between  the  snaffle-reins,  so  as  to  allow  of  the  full 
manipulation  of  the  mouth  by  the  hand,  without  bearing 
upon  the  neck.  But  the  objection  to  this  is  that  the  curb 
cannot  be  shortened  without  releasing  the  snaffle,  and 
therefore  the  horse  must  either  be  ridden  on  the  curb 
alone,  while  this  process  is  being  effected,  or  his  head 
must  be  loorsed  altogether  ;  whereas  in  the  other  mode,  his 
mouth  is  still  under  control  of  the  snaffle  all  the  tune  that 
the  curb  is  being  let  out  or  taken  in. 

THE  ORDINARY  PACER. 
The  walk  is  a  perfecth^  natural  pace  to  the  horse,  but  it 
is  somewhat  altered  by  use,  being  quicker  and  smarter  than 
before  breaking,  and  with  the  hind  legs  more  brought  under 
the  body,  in  the  perfect  roadster.  In  this  pace  the  head 
should  not  be  too  confined,  and  yet  the  rider  should  not 
entirely  leave  it  uncontrolled  ;  the  finest  possible  touch  is 
enough,  so  that  on  any  trip  the  hand  is  at  once  informed  of 
it  by  the  drop  of  the  head,  when  by  a  sudden  jerk  of  the 
bridle,  not  too  forcible,  it  rouses  the  horse  and  prevents  his 
falling.  It  is  not  that  he  is  kept  up  by  pulling  the  rein, 
but  that  he  is  aroused  by  it  and  made  to  exert  himself;  for 
many  horses  seem  regardless  of  falls,  and  would  be  down 
twenty  times  a  day  if  they  were  not  stimulated  by  the  heel 
and  bit.     Confinement  of  the  head  in  the  walk  is  absolutely 


100 

injurious,  and  more  frequently  causes  a  fall  than  saves  one. 
A  good  walker  will  go  on  nodding  his  head  to  each  step, 
more  or  less  as  it  is  a  long  or  short  one  ;  and  if  this  nod- 
ding is  prevented  by  the  heavy  hand  of  the  rider,  the  fore- 
foot is  not  properly  stretched  forward,  the  step  is  crippled, 
and  very  often  the  toe  strikes  the  ground  ;  when  if  the  head 
were  at  liberty  it  would  clear  it  well.  In  horses  which  are 
apt  to  stumble  on  the  walk,  I  have  generally  found  that  a 
loose  rein  with  the  curb  held  ready  for  a  check  is  the  safest 
plan  ;  and  then  the  horse  soon  finds  that  he  is  punished  the 
moment  he  stumbles,  and  in  a  very  short  time  he  learns  to 
recover  himself  almost  before  he  is  reminded.  I  do  not 
like  the  spur  or  the  whip  so  well,  because  the  use  of  either 
makes  the  horse  spring  forward  and  often  blunder  again  in 
his  hurry  to  avoid  this  kind  of  punishment.  The  check 
of  the  curb,  on  the  other  hand,  makes  him  recover  him- 
self without  extra  progress  or  rather  by  partially  stopping 
him,  and  thus  he  is  better  able  to  avoid  his  fall.  The 
body  is  allowed  to  yield  slightly  to  the  motion  of  the  horse, 
but  not  to  waddle  from  side  to  side  as  is  sometimes  seen. 
Some  horses  do  not  stir  th*e  rider  at  all,  while  others  throw 
him  about  and  fatigue  him  greatly ;  and  this  may  gener- 
ally be  foretold  when  the  tail  sways  much  from  side  to 
side  in  the  walk,  which  is  caused  by  the  over-long  stride 
of  the  horse,  a  desirable  accomplishment  in  the  race  horse, 
but  not  in  the  lady's  horse. 

The  trot  is  altogether  an  acquired  pace,  and,  in  the 
natural  state,  is  never  seen  for  more  than  a  few  yards  at  a 
time.  In  it  the  fore  and  hind  legs  of  opposite  sides  move 
together  and  are  taken  up  and  put  down  exactly  at  the 
same  moment.  To  start  a  horse  in  the  trot,  take  hold  of 
both  the  reins  of  the  snaffle,  and  bear  firmly,  but  steadily, 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  101 

upon  the  mouth  ;  lean  slightly  forward  in  the  saddle,  press 
the  legs  against  the  horse's  sides,  and  use  the  peculiar  click 
of  the  tongue,  which  serves  as  an  encouragement  to  the 
horse  on  all  occasions.  If  properly  broken,  he  will  now 
fall  at  once  into  a  trot ;  but  if  he  breaks  into  a  canter  or 
Scallop,  he  must  be  checked,  and  restrained  into  a  walk  or 
a  very  slow  trot  called  a  "jog-trot."  In  some  cases  a  horse 
can  canter  as  slow  as  he  walks  and  here  there  is  often 
great  difficulty  in  making  him  trot,  for  no  restraint  short 
of  a  total  halt  will  prevent  the  canter.  In  such  cases,  lay- 
ing hold  of  an  ear  will  often  succeed,  by  making  the  an- 
imal drop  his  head,  which  movement  interferes  with  the 
canter,  and  generally  leads  to  a  trot.  Rising  in  the  stirrups 
with  the  trot  is  generally  practised  in  civil  life,  as  being 
far  less  fatiguing  to  both  horse  and  rider,  but  in  the  mil- 
itary schools  the  opposite  style  is  inculcated,  because 
among  a  troop  of  horse  it  has  a  very  bad  effect  when  a 
number  of  men  are  bobbing  up  and  down,  out  of  all  time ; 
if  it  were  possible  for  all  to  rise  together,  perhaps  the  offence 
against  military  precision  might  be  pardoned;  but  as 
horses  will  not  all  step  together,  so  the  men  cannot  all  rise 
at  the  same  moment,  and  the  consequence  is  that  they  are 
doomed  to  bump  upon  the  sheep-skins  in  a  very  tiresome 
manner,  fatiguing  alike  to  man  and  horse.  The  civilian's 
moeie  is  as  follows: — At  the  precise  moment  when  the 
hind  and  fore-legs  are  making  their  effort  to  throw  the 
horse  forward  in  progression,  the  body  of  the  rider  is 
thrown  forcibly  into  the  air,  in  some  horses  to  so  great  an 
extent  as  to  make  a  young  rider  feel  as  if  he  never 
should  come  down  again.  After  reaching  the  utmost 
height,  however,  the  body  falls,  and  reaches  the  saddle 
just   in    time  to  catch  the   next  effort  and  so  on  as  long 


102  THE   HORSE   OWNER's 

as  the  trot  lasts.  In  this  way  the  horse  absolutely  carries 
no  weight  at  all  during  half  his  time,  and  the  action  and 
re-action  are  of  such  a  nature  that  the  trot  is  accelerated 
rather  than  retarded  by  the  weight.  No  horse  can  trot 
above  twelve  or  thirteen  miles  an  hour  without  this  rising, 
though  he  may  run  or  pace  in  the  American  style,  so  that 
it  is  not  only  to  save  the  rider's  bones  but  also  to  ease  the 
horse,  that  this  practice  has  been  introduced,  and  has  held 
its  ground  in  spite  of  the  want  of  military  sanction.  It  is 
here  as  with  the  seat,  utility  is  sacrificed  to  appearances  ; 
and  whenever  the  long  and  weak  seat  of  the  barrack-yard 
supplants  the  firm  seat  of  the  civilian,  I  shall  expect  to 
see  the  rising  in  the  trot  abandoned,  but  certainly  not  till 
then. 

In  the  trot,  the  foot  should  bear  strongly  on  the  stirrup, 
with  the  heel  well  down  and  the  ball  of  the  foot  pressing 
on  the  foot-piece  of  the  stirrup  so  that  the  elasticity  of  the 
ankle  takes  off  the  jar,  and  prevents  the  double  rise,  which 
in  some  rough  horses  is  very  apt  to  be  produced.  The 
knees  should  always  be  maintained  exactly  in  the  same 
place,  without  that  shifting  motion  which  is  so  common 
with  bad  riders,  and  the  legs  should  be  held  perpendicu- 
larly from  the  knee  downwards,  the  chest  well  forward,  the 
waist  in  and  the  rise  nearly  upright,  but  slightly  forward, 
and  as  easily  as  can  be  etfected,  without  effort  on  the  part 
of  the  rider,  and  rather  restrainino^  than  aidinof  to  the 
throw  of  the  horse.  The  military  style,  without  rising,  is 
eifected  by  leaving  the  body  as  much  as  possible  to  find  its 
own  level.  The  knees  should  not  cling  to  the  saddle,  the 
foot  should  not  press  forcibly  on  the  stirrup,  and  the  hand 
should  not  bear  upon  the  bridle.  By  attending  to  these 
negative  directions  the  rider  has  only  to  lean  very  slight- 


ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE.  103 

ly  back  from  the  perpendicular,  and  preserve   his  balance, 
when  practice  will  do  all  the  rest. 

The  canter  is,  even  more  than  the  trot,  an  unnatural  and 
artificial  pace.  It  can  very  seldom  be  taught  without 
setting  a  horse  much  upon  his  haunches,  and  very  rarely 
indeed  without  the  use  of  the  curb-rein.  It  is  a  pace 
ill  which  all  the  legs  are  lifted  and  set  down,  one  after  the 
other,  in  the  most  methodical  manner,  the  near  or  off  fore 
leg  leading  off,  as  the  case  may  be,  but  one  foot  being 
always  in  contact  with  the  ground.  To  start  the  canter 
with  either  leg  it  is  necessary  to  pull  the  opposite  rein 
and  press  the  opposite  heel.  The  reason  of  this  is  obvious 
enough.  Every  horse  in  starting  to  canter  (and  many 
even  in  the  canter  itself),  turns  himself  slightly  across 
his  line  of  progress,  in  order  to  enable  him  to  lead  with 
that  leg  which  he  thereby  advances.  Thus,  supposing  a 
horse  is  going  to  lead  off  with  the  off  fore  leg,  he  turns 
his  head  to  the  left  and  his  croup  to  the  right,  and  this 
easily  gets  his  off  leg  before  and  his  near  leg  behind  into 
the  line  which  is  being  taken.  Now,  compel  him  to  re- 
peat this  action ;  it  is  only  necessary  to  turn  him  in  this 
way  by  pulling  his  head  to  the  left  and. by  touching  him 
w^th  the  left  heel,  after  which  he  is  made  to  canter  by 
exciting  him  with  the  voice  or  whip,  whilst,  at  the  same 
moment,  he  is  restrained  by  the  curb.  When  once  this 
lead  is  commenced,  the  hold  on  the  curb  and  pressure 
on  the  legs  may  be  quite  equal :  but  if,  while  the  canter 
is  maintained,  it  is  desired  to  change  the  leading  leg, 
the  horse  must  be  collected  and  roused  by  the  bit  and 
voice,  and  then  reversing  the  pull  of  the  rein  and  the  leg- 
pressure  from  that  previously  practised,  so  as  to  turn  the 
horse  in  the  opposite  way  to  that  in  which  he  was  started, 


104  THE    HORSE   OWNEr's 

he  will  generally  be  compelled  to  change  his  lead,  which 
is  called  "  changing  his  leg."  The  seat  for  the  canter  is 
a  very  easy  one,  the  knees  taking  a  very  gentle  hold  of 
the  saddle,  the  feet  not  bearing  strongly  upon  the  stirrups, 
and  the  body  tolerably  upright  in  the  saddle.  The  hands 
must  not  be  too  low  in  this  pace,  but  should  keep  a  very 
gentle  but  constant  pressure  upon  the  bit,  and  should,  if 
there  is  the  slightest  tendency  to  drop  the  canter,  rouse 
the  mouth  by  a  very  slight  reminder,  and  also  stimulate 
the  fears  by  the  voice  or  whip. 

The  gallop  is  the  most  natural  of  all  paces,  being  seen 
in  all  horses  while  at  liberty,  from  the  Shetland  pony  and 
Indian  "mustang,"  and  the  dray  horse  to  the  pure  breed 
race  horse.  It  is  a  succession  of  leaps,  and  differs  from  the 
canter  in  one  important  feature,  which  separates  the  one 
pace  from  the  other.  In  the  description  of  the  latter  pace 
I  have  said  that  one  foot  is  always  in  contact  with  the 
ground ;  whilst  in  the  gallop,  whether  fast  or  slow,  there  is 
always  an  interval  in  which  the  whole  animal  is  suspended 
in  the  air,  without  touching  the  ground.  Hence  it  is  not 
true  that  the  canter  is  a  slow  gallop,  nor  is  the  gallop  a 
fast  canter  but  the  two  are  totally  distinct  paces  as  differ- 
ent as  walking  and  running  in  the  human  subject.  There 
is,  however,  the  same  variation  in  the  leading  leg,  and  the 
same  mode  of  compelling  the  lead  of  one  particular  leg, 
as  well  as  of  causing  the  change  of  lead,  though  it  is 
much  more  difficult  to  effect  these  objects  in  the  faster 
pace  than  in  the  slower  one. 

Tho  proper  seat  in  the  gallop  is  either  to  sit  down  in  the 
saddle  or  to  stand  in  the  stirrups,  according  to  circum- 
stances. The  former  is  the  usual  seat,  and  it  is  only  in 
racing  or  in  the  very  fast  gallop  at  other  times  that  the 


ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE.  105 

latter  is  adopted.  In  sitting  down,  the  feet  may  be  either 
resting  on  the  ball  of  the  toe,  as  in  other  paces,  or  with 
the  stirrup  "  home  "  to  the  boot,  as  is  common  in  all  field 
riding.  The  body  is  thrown  easily  and  slightly  back,  the 
knees  take  firm  hold,  the  rider  being  careful  not  to  grip  so 
tight  as  to  distress  the  horse,  which  fault  I  have  known 
very  muscular  men  often  commit.  The  hands  should  be 
low  with  sufficient  pull  at  the  mouth  to  restrain  him  but 
not  to  annoy  and  make  him  "fight";  and  if  he  is  inclined 
to  get  his  head  down  too  much,  or  the  reverse,  they  must 
be  raised  or  lowered  accordingly;  when  standing  in  the 
stirrups  is  to  be  practised,  the  weight  is  thrown  upon  them, 
steadying  it  with  the  "knees,  which  should  keep  firm  hold 
of  the  saddle  flaps.  The  seat  of  the  body  is  carried  well 
back,  while  at  the  same  time  the  loin  is  thrown  forward ; 
but  by  this  combined  action  the  weight  is  not  hanging 
over  the  shoulder  of  the  horse,  as  it  would  be  and  often  is 
when  the  breech  is  raised  from  the  saddle  and  brought 
almost  over  the  pommel,  with  the  eyes  of  the  rider  look- 
ing down  his  horse's  forehead,  or  very  nearly  so.  If  a 
jocky  with  a  good  seat  is  watched,  it  will  be  seen  that  hig 
leg  does  not  descend  straight  from  the  knee,  but  that  it  is 
slightly  thrown  back  from  the  line,  and  consequently  that 
his  centre  of  gravity  is  behind  it,  so  that  he  can,  by  stiffen- 
ing the  joint,  carry  his  body  as  far  behind  it  as  his  stir- 
rup is,  without  ceasing  to  stand  in  it.  This  seat  cannot  be 
long  maintained  without  fatigue  to  the  rider,  and  it  is 
only  adopted  in  racing  or  in  short  gallops  over  hard 
ground,  or  a  steep  hill  or  any  kind  of  ground  calculated  to. 
tire  a  horse.  The  varieties  of  the  gallop  are,  the  hand- 
gallop,  the  three-quarter  gallop,  and  full  gallop,  which  is 
capable  of  still  further  extension  in  the  "racing  set-to." 


106  THE   HORSE   OWNER's 

They  are  all,  however,  modifications  of  the  same  pace, 
varying-  only  in  the  velocity  with  which  they  are  carried 
out.  Besides  the  paces  of  the  horse  which  are  required 
for  his  use  by  man,  there  are  also  certain  movements  very 
commonly  met  with,  by  no  means  desirable,  and  others 
which  are  taught  him  for  man's  extraordinary  purposes; 
the  former  are  called  vices,  the  latter  are  more  or  less  the 
rusult  of  the  manage,'  or  breaking-school. 
VICES. 
The  vices  are — first,  stumbling  :  secondly,  cutting  and 
rearing;  thirdly,  shying;  fourthly,  kicking;  fifthly,  plung, 
ing;  sixthly,  lying  down;  seventhly,  shouldering;  and 
eighthly,  running  away.  The  managed  actions  are  back- 
ing, passaging,  etc.  Stumbling  is  caused  by  defective  mus- 
cular action  in  all  cases,  though  there  is  no  doubt  that  in 
many  horses  this  defect  is  aggravated  by  lameness,  either 
of  the  feet  or  legs,  or  from  defective  shoeing.  Some 
horses  can  never  be  ridden  in  safety  for  many  miles,  al- 
though they  will  **sliow  out"  with  very  good  action  ;  and 
this  is  caused  by  the  muscles  which  raise  and  extend  the 
leg,  tiring  very  rapidly ;  after  which  the  ground  is  not 
cleared  by  the  toe  and  when  it  is  struck  there  is  not  pow- 
er to  recover  from  the  mistake.  Many  careless  and  low 
goers  are  constantly  striking  their  feet  against  stones,  but 
having  strong  exteriors  they  draw  their  feet  clear  of  the 
obstacle,  and  easily  recover  themselves ;  whilst  those 
which  are  differently  furnished,  although  they  strike  with 
less  force,  yet  they  have  no  power  to  help  themselves,  and 
therefore  they  fall.  The  one  kind  nia}^  be  kept  on  their 
legs  by  constant  rousing  and  severity,  but  the  weak  ones 
are  never  safe.  In  the  stumbling  from  lameness  or  sore- 
ness  the    most  humane    course,  as    well  as   the   safest,  is 


ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE.  107 

either  to  dismount  and  lead  the  horse,  or  to  keep  him 
"alive  "  by  the  use  of  the  whip  or  spar.  Humanity,  tak- 
ing a  middle  course  by  riding  quietly,  is  sure  to  lick  the 
dust,  and  the  plan  should  never  be  attempted.  But  there 
are  many  kinds  of  careless  stumbling ;  one  arises  from  the 
toe  touching,  although  well  thrown  over;  but  the  knee- 
action  being  low,  the  foot  is  not  cleared.  This  is  not  a 
very  dangerous  kind,  and  is  generally  recovered  from. 
The  next  is  from  the  foot  being  put  down  too  far  back, 
and  too  much  on  the  toe,  so  that  the  pastern,  instead  of 
settling  into  its  proper  place  behind  the  perpendicular  of 
the  foot,  "knuckles  over  "  in  front,  and  so  causes  the  leg 
to  lose  its  power  of  sustaining  the  weight.  Then  the 
horse  does  not  generally  fall  unless  the  other  leg  follows 
suit ;  but  it  is  a  very  unpleasant  accident,  and  if  a  horse 
is  liable  to  it  he  is  never  to  be  considered  safe.  Such  an- 
imals are  very  deceptive  to  the  young  and  inexperienced, 
because  they  generally  lift  their  knees  high,  and  lead  to 
the  supposition  that  they  are  safe  and  good  goers.  But 
if  they  are  watched  they  will  be  seen  to  put  their  feet 
down  behind  a  perpendicular  line,  drawn  from,  the  front 
of  their  knees ;  and  when  that  is  the  case  the  kind  of 
stumbling  here  alluded  to  is  always  to  be  expected. 
There  is  also  the  stumbling  from  putting  the  foot  on  a 
rolling  stone,  which  gives  way  at  the  moment  of  bearing 
the  weight,  and  thus  throws  the  horse  off  his  balance,  so 
as  to  occasion  him  to  make  a  mistake  with  the  other  leg, 
which  will  be  greater  or  less  according  to  his  good  or  bad 
action.  Lastly,  there  is  a  stumbling  resulting  from  ten- 
der soles  or  frogs,  in  which  the  feet  being  placed  upon  a 
sharp  stone,  so  much  pain  is  occasioned  that  the  knee  is 
allowed  to  give  way,  and  the  same  effect  is  produced  as  in 


108  THE   HORSE   OWNER's 

the  accident  caused   by  a    rolling  stone,  but   often  in    a 
much  more  marked  degree. 

The  remedy  for  stumbling  will,  in  all  cases,  depend  up- 
on the  cause.  If  this  is  from  weakness,  no  care  or  good 
riding  will  prevent  a  stumble,  though  it  may  avert  an  ab- 
solute fall  by  taking  care  to  sit  well  back,  and  to  be  on 
the  guard  against  being  pulled  over  the  shoulder  in  case 
of  a  serious  mistake."  There  is  no  use  in  holding  a  horse 
hard  in  such  a  case ;  he  should  be  kept  alive  but  not  hur- 
ried ;  because  the  more  tired  he  is  the  more  likely  he  is 
to  come  down.  Great  judgment,  therefore,  will  be  neces- 
sary to  "nurse  him  "  to  his  journey's  end;  and  this  will 
be  best  done  by  an  occasional  relief  to  his  back  and  walk- 
ing by  his  side.  No  one  should  ride  such  a  horse  habitu- 
ally; but  if,  unfortunately,  he  finds  himself  on  him  and 
some  miles  from  home,  the  above  is  the  best  course  to 
pursue.  When,  however,  the  stumbling  is  from  decided 
laziness,  the  only  course  is  to  catch  hold  of  the  horse's 
head,  and  use  the  whip,  or  spur,  or  both  pretty  severely. 
Many  horses  are  quite  safe  at  their  top  speed  on  the  trot, 
but  at  a  half  trot  they  are  never  to  be  trusted.  The  ex- 
perienced horseman  readily  detects  the  exact  pace  which 
his  horse  can  do  with  the  greatest  ease  and  safety,  and 
keeps  him  to  that.  Some  can  trot  down  hill  safely,  but 
are  always  tripping  on  level  ground  (these  are  low-ac- 
tioned  horses  with  pretty  good  shoulders) ;  others,  again, 
always  trip  going  down  hill  from  overshooting  themselves, 
and  of  course,  each  must  be  ridden  accordingly.  When 
lameness  is  the  cause  of  failure,  the  remedy  is  either  to 
have  the  shoe  taken  off  and  rectified,  if  that  is  the  cause, 
or  if  in  the  joints,  ligaments  or  sinews,  to  give  rest  and 
adopt  the   proper   remedies.     Cutting   is    caused    by   the 


ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE.  109 

horse  touching  one  leg  with  the  other  shoe  or  foot,  and 
it  may  be  either  of  the  ankle  or  pastern  joint,  or  of  the  in- 
side of  the  leg,  or  just  below  the  knee,  which  last  is  called 
the  speedy  cut.  It  arises  from  the  leg's  being  set  on 
slightly  awry,  so  that  the  action  is  not  straight-forward ; 
and  this  is  aggravated  by  weakness  or  want  of  condition, 
so  that  a  horse  often  cuts  when  poor,  though  he  is  quite 
free  from  the  vice  when  high  in  flesh.  The  cutting  may 
be  either  of  the  fore  or  hind  leg.  The  remedy  is  either  to 
alter  the  shoeing  or  to  apply  a  boot. 

Rearing  is  a  coltish  trick,  which  is  generally  lost  as 
the  colt  grows  older ;  it  is  not  nearly  so  common  as  it 
used  to  be,  and  a  bad  rearer  is  not  often  seen.  When  in 
an  aggravated  form,  it  is  a  frightful  vice,  and  with  an  in- 
experienced rider  may  be  attended  with  fatal  mischief. 
In  slight  cases,  it  consists  in  the  horse's  simply  rising  a  lit- 
tle before,  and  dropping  again,  as  if  from  play  only ;  but 
in  the  worst,  it  is  a  systematic  attempt  to  throw  the  rider, 
and  sometimes  the  horse  goes  so  far  as  to  throw  himself 
back  as  well.  The  remedy  for  this  vice  is  the  martingale, 
which  may  either  be  used  with  rings  running  on  the  snaf- 
fle-rein, or  attached  directly  to  that  bit  by  the  ordinary 
billet  and  buckle;  or  again,  by  means  of  a  running-rein, 
which  commences  from  the  breast-strap  of  the  martingale, 
and  then  running  through  the  ring  or  the  snaffle,  with  a 
pulley-like  action,  it  is  brought  back  to  the  hand,  and  it 
may  thus  be  tightened  or  relaxed  according  to  circum- 
stances, so  as  to  bring  the  horse's  head  absolutely  down 
to  his  brisket,  or  on  the  other  hand,  to  give  it  entire  lib- 
erty, without  dismounting.  It  is  a  very  good  plan  with 
an  experienced  horseman,  but  its  use  should  not  be  at- 
tempted by  any  other.     With  a  determined  brute,  noth- 


110  ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE. 

ing  short  of  this  last  will  prevent  rearing;  and  even  it 
will  fail  in  some  cases,  for  there  are  some  horses  which 
rear  with  their  heads  between  their  fore-legs.  Neverthe- 
less, happily,  they  are  rare  exceptions,  and  with  the  ma- 
jority the  martingale  in  some  form  is  efficacious.  It 
should  never  be  put  on  the  curb-rein  with  rearers,  and 
indeed,  a  curb  is  seldom  to  be  used  at  all  with  horses  ad- 
dicted to  that  vice ;  they  are  always  made  worse  by  the 
slightest  touch  of  the  bit,  and  unless  they  are  very  much 
inclined  to  run  away,  it  is  far  better  to  trust  to  a  straight 
bit  or  plain  snafde,  which,  by  not  irritating  the  mouth, 
will  often  induce  them  to  go '  pleasantly,  whereas  a 
more  severe  bit  would  tempt  them  to  show  their  temper 
by  rearing.  Breaking  a  bottle  of  water  between  the  ears, 
or  a  severe  blow  on  the  same  part,  may,  in  some  cases,  be 
tried  ;  but  the  continued  use  of  the  martingale  will  gen- 
erally suffice.  There  is  also  a  mode  of  curing  rearers, 
sometimes  attempted  by  letting  them  rise,  and  then  slip- 
ping off  on  one  side  and  pulling  them  back;  but  it  is  a 
dangerous  feat  for  both  horse  and  rider,  and  has  often  led 
to  a  broken  back  on  the  part  of  the  horse,  as  well  as  some- 
times to  severe  injury  to  the  rider.  It  is  scarcely  neces- 
sary to  remark  that  the  rider  should,  in  all  cases,  lean 
well  forward  and  relay  the  bridle  while  the  horse  is  in  the 
air. 

Shying  is  sometimes  the  effect  of  fear  and  sometimes  of 
vice,  and  there  are  many  horses  which  begin  with  the  for- 
mer and  end  with  the  latter,  in  consequence  of  misman- 
agement. The  young  co]t  is  almost  always  more  or  less 
shy,  especially  if  he  was  brought  at  once  from  the  retired 
fields  where  he  was  reared,  to  the  streets  of  a  busy  town. 
There  are,  however,  numberless  varieties  of  shyers,  some 


ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE.  Ill 

being  dreadfully  alarmed  by  one  kind  of  object,  wbicb  to 
another  is  not  at  all  forniidable.  When  a  horse  finds 
that  he  gains  his  object  by  turning  round,  he  will  often 
repeat  the  turning  without  cause,  pretending  to  be  alarmed 
and  looking  out  for  excuses  for  it.  This  is  not  at  all 
uncommon,  and  with  timid  riders  leads  to  a  discontinuance 
of  the  ride,  by  which  the  horse  gains  his  end  for  the  time, 
and  repeats  the  trick  on  the  first  occasion.  In  genuine 
shying  from  fear,  the  eyes  are  more  or  less  defective  ;  but 
sometimes  this  is  not  the  cause,  which  is  founded  upon 
a  general  irritability  of  the  nervous  system.  Thus  there 
are  many  which  never  shy  at  meeting  wagons  or  other 
similar  objects,  but  which  almost  drop  with  fear  on  the 
sight  of  a  small  bird  flying  out  of  a  hedge,  or  any  other 
startling  sound.  These  are  also  worse,  because  they  give 
no  notice,  whereas  the  ordinary  shyer  almost  always 
shows  by  his  ears  that  he  is  prepared  to  turn.  For  shyers 
the  only  remedy  is  to  take  as  little  notice  as  possible, 
to  make  light  of  the  occurrence,  speak  encouragingly  yet 
rather  severely,  and  to  get  them  by  the  object  some  how 
or  other.  If  needful,  the  aid  of  the  spur  and  whip  may 
be  called  in,  but  not  as  a  punishment.  If  the  horse  can 
be  urged  by  the  object  at  which  he  is  shying  without  the 
whip  or  the  spur,  so  much  the  better;  but  if  not,  he  must 
do  so  by  their  use.  Whenever  fear  is  the  cause  of  shying 
punishment  only  adds  to  that  fear;  but  when  vice  has 
supplanted  fear,  severity  sliould  be  used  to  correct  it.  As 
a  general  rule,  the  whip  need  never  to  be  used,  unless  the 
horse  turns  absolutely  around,  and  not  then  unless  there 
is  reason  to  suspect  that  he  is  pretending  fear.  If  only 
he  will  go  by  the  object,  even  with  a  "  wide  berth,"  as 
the  sailors  say,  he  may  be  suffered  to  go  on  in  his  way  un- 


112  THE   HORSE   OWNER's 

punished;  and  nothing  is  so  bad  as  the  absurd  severity 
which  some  horseman  exercise  after  having  conquered 
his  reluctance  and  passed  the  object.  At  this  time  he 
should  be  praised  and  patted  with  all  the  encouragement 
which  can  be  given  ;  and  on  no  account  should  be  taught 
to  make  those  rushes  so  commonly  seen  on  the  road,  from 
the  improper  use  of  the  whip  and  spur.  If  punishment 
is  necessary  at  all,  it  must  be  used  before -hand;  but  it 
often  happens  that  the  rider  cannot  spare  his  whip-hand 
until  the  shying  is  over ;  and  then,  in  his  passion,  he  does 
not  reflect  that  the  time  has  gone  by  for  its  employment. 

Kicking  is  a  very  unpleasant  vice,  either  in  the  saddle 
or  in  harness,  but  it  is  not  so  dangerous  in  the  former  as 
in  the  latter.  Its  nature  is  too  well  known  to  need  descrip- 
tion. It  is  often  the  result  of  play  but  quite  as  frequently 
it  arises  from  a  vicious  desire  to  get  rid  of  the  rider.  The 
proper  mode  of  treating  a  kicker  is  to  catch  fast  hold  of 
the  head,  and  keep  it  well  up,  and  then  to  use  the  whip 
down  the  shoulder  severely.  If  the  head  is  not  well  in 
hand  he  will  often  kick  the  more  but  if  the  head  is  kept 
up  while  the  blow  is  given,  he  will  generally  desist.  A 
gag  snaffle  is  very  useful  with  confirmed  kickers,  as  it 
serves  to  keep  the  head  up  better  than  any  other  bit. 

Plunging  consists  in  a  series  of  bounds  or  springs,  by 
which  the  horse  evidently  hopes  to  relieve  himself  of  his 
burden.  His  back  is  generally  rounded,  and  very  often 
he  will  "  back,"  or  jump  off  the  ground  perpendicularly,  by 
which  a  weak  rider  is  unseated.  The  remedy  is  to  sit  still 
and  keep  the  head  confined,  though  not  too  closely.  Very 
often  plunging  is  followed  by  a  fit  of  kicking,  for  which 
the  rider  should  be  prepared.  If  there  is  reason  to  expect 
that  a  horse  will  commence  this  trick,  a  cloth,  rolled  like 


ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE.  113 

a  soldiers  cloak  and  buckled  to  the  front  of  the  saddle,  is  a 
great  assistance;  and  lying  down  is  a  vice  which  only- 
ponies  and  other  obstinate  brutes  indulge  in,  and  is  sel- 
dom met  with  in  well  bred  horses.  The  spur  will  some- 
times keep  them  up,  but  in  bad  cases  there  is  no  remedy 
but  submission.  Sliouldering  is  also  a  trick  only  met 
with  among  badly  bred  horses,  though  sometimes  horses 
of  all  breeds,  if  they  have  been  badly  broken,  wnll  adopt 
this  expedient  by  attempting  to  crush  the  knee  against  a 
wall  or  paling.  If,  however,  the  hand  and  foot  are  put 
strongly  out,  the  horse  cannot  use  enough  lateral  pressure 
to  overcome  their  resistance,  and  no  harm  is  done.  Run- 
ning away  is  only  an  extreme  form  of  pulling  in  the  gallop, 
but  sometimes  it  is  of  a  most  vicious  description,  and  the 
horse  gallops  as  if  maddened  by  excitement.  It  is  a  most 
dangerous  vice,  as  it  is  generally  practised  at  times  when 
it  is  most  inconvenient,  as  in  crowded  thoroughfares,  etc. 
For  horses  which  run  away,  various  severe  bits  have 
been  invented,  but  nothing  has  ever  yet  been  introduced 
v^hich  is  so  successful  as  the"  Bucephelusnose  band."  ^t  is 
a  good  plan  in  determined  brutes  to  make  them  run  to  a 
stand-still,  by  giving  them  an  up-hill  "  burster,  "  which 
may  generally  be  nfanaged,  though  there  are  some  which 
are  only  made  worse  by  this  treatment.  Still,  it  generally 
s-ucceeds,  and  most  horses  are  rendered  quiet  for  some 
time  by  such  an  effort;  nevertheless,  they  generally  try 
again  as  soon  as  they  are  fresh,  and  they  are  seldom  to  be 
trusted  with  any  riders  but  good  horsemen.  It  is  of  no 
use  to  pull  dead  at  these  animals,  but  it  is  better  to  let 
them  go  when  there  is  plenty  of  room,  and  then  to  try 
what  a  sharp  and  severe  pull  will  do ;  not  keeping  it  up 
too  long,  .if   effectual,    but   looiiug  the  mouth  again  for 


114 

a  time,  and  then  trying  again.  Sometimes,  however,  there 
is  no  room  for  this,  and  then  the  only  plan  is  to  try  and 
bring  the  head  romid,  either  with  a  view  of  galloping  in 
a  circle,  or  to  run  the  head  against  a  fence  or  even  a 
strong  gate ;  sometimes  anything  is  better  than  a  straight 
course —  as,  for  instance,  into  a  crowded  thoroughfare, 
where  there  would  be  an  almost  positive  certainty  of  mis- 
chief; and  in  such  a  case  it  is  better  to  do  anything  than 
to  persevere  in  the  course  which  the  run-away  is  taking. 
Here  the  horse  must  be  pulled  into  any  insurmountable 
obstacle ;  and  all  risk  must  be  run  of  damao^ino^  him  or 
even  his  rider,  who  will,  however,  generally  escape  with 
slip;ht  bruises  if  the  horse  is  run  full  tilt  acrainst  the  ob- 
ject,  and  not  too  obliquely,  which  will  not  at  all  answer 
the  purpose.  Backing  is  necessary  for  all  horses  to  be 
taught,  though  not  so  often  required  as  in  harness-horses. 
It  is  always  one  of  the  first  things  drilled  into  a  colt  by 
its  breaker,  and  the  finished  and  broken  horse  will  as  a 
matter  of  course,  readily  obey  the  hand  of  the  rider  when 
he  gently  draws  him  back.  The  pull  should  not  be  harder 
than  the  particular  mouth  requires,  some  horses  being 
easily  irritated  by  too  severe  a  confiiiemeut  of  the  mouth. 
If  a  horse  obstinately  refuses  to  stir,  the  bit  may  be  gently 
"sawed"  from  side  to  side,  which  seldom  fails  to  make 
him  stir.  When  backing  is  adopted  by  the  horse  with 
vicious  intentions  and  contrary  to  the  will  of  his  master, 
it  is  called  "jibbing,"  and  is  a  most  unmanageable  trick, 
for  which  the  remedy  is  patience.  Punishment  never 
answers,  and  the  horse  only  jibs  the  more  ;  but  quietly 
waiting  until  he  is  tired,  the  aniuial  will  generally  give 
up  the  figiit,  and  continue  his  progress  in  the  desired 
direction.      Passaging    is   a  feat   oi   horsemanship   never 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  115 

used  in  this  country  except  in  the  military  schools.  It  is 
the  action  of  the  horse  by  which  he  moves  sideways,  using 
the  two  legs  of  each  sjde  at  a  time,  and  following  them  up, 
advancing  them  to  the  right  or  left,  by  bringing  the  other 
two  up  to  them. 

THE  RIDE. 

The  ride  is  putting  into  practice  all  the  directions 
which  have  already  been  given.  When  the  orders  have 
been  issued  for  a  horse  to  be  prepared,  he  is  brought  to  the 
door  ready  saddled  and  bridled.  It  is  the  groom's  duty 
to  place  the  saddle  properly  on  ;  but  it  is  as  well  that  the 
equestrian  should  know  how  and  where  to  put  it  on.  The 
common  direction  is  to  put  the  saddle  on  "  one's  hand's 
breadth  behind  the  shoulder  blade,"  but  this  is  too  far 
back,  and  few  sadilles  will  remain  there.  It  is  far  better 
to  place  it  at  once  where  it  fits  than  to  give  it  room  to  come 
forward  because  the  girths  only  become  more  slack  as  it 
shifts,  and  allow  it  to  press  still  more  forward  than  it  other- 
wise would ;  whereas,  if  it  had  been  first  placed  where  it 
naturally  belonged  or  fitted,  the  girths  would  have  kept 
tight,  and  it  would  have  moved  no  further.  Place  the 
saddle  where  it  fits,  taking  care  to  have  it  as  far  back  as 
it  will  fit.  The  bridle  should  be  put  on,  with  the  bit 
neither  too  high  nor  too  low,  in  the  mouth,  and  with  the 
throat-lash  of  the  proper  tightness,  which  points  can  only 
be  learned  from  experience.  After  leaving  the  stable, 
and  if  the  weather  is  fine,  walking  the  horse  about  for  a 
few  minutes,  the  girths  will  generally  require  tightening. 
When  the  horse  is  to  be  mounted,  the  rider,  if  he  cannot 
fully  depend  upon  his  assistance,  should  see  to  his  girths, 
and  that  his  bridle  is  properly  put  on,  with  the  curb  of 


116  THE   HOESE   OWNEE's 

the  right  degree  of  tightness,  if  he  uses  a  double-reined 
bridle.  The  groom  brings  the  horse  up  to  the  door,  hold- 
ing it  with  the  left  hand  by  the  snaffle-reins,  and  bearing 
on  the  off  stirrup  to  resist  the  weight,  if  the  rider  is  a  heavy- 
man,  which  will  prevent  the  saddle  from  twisting.  The 
rider  then  mounts,  and  puts  his  horse  into  a  walk,  which 
should  always  be  the  pace  for  the  commencement  of  a 
ride  for  pleasure.  He  may,  in  this  pace,  as  I  have  already 
explained,  give  his  horse  considerable  liberty  of  the  head, 
and  he  will  have  no  difficulty  in  turning  him  to  the  right 
or  left,  either  by  the  use  of  one  hand  or  both,  or  by  bear- 
ing upon  the  neck  according  to  the  mode  to  which  the 
horse  has  been  broken.  After  a  short  distance,  he  may 
practise  the  various  paces,  and  if  he  is  inclined  to  learn 
to  ride  well,  he  may  at  times  throw  the  stirrups  across  the 
saddle,  and  attempt  to  canter  without  them.  In  learn- 
ing to  ride  without  stirrups,  it  is  a  very  good  plan  to  have 
the  inside  of  the  trowsers  lined  with  a  strip  of  black  leath- 
er, in  the  French  fashion,  which  takes  a  good  grip  of  the 
saddle;  for  with  cloth  trowsers  and  a  smoothly  polished 
saddle,  there  is  very  little  hold  to  be  obtained,  and  the 
balance  alone  must  preserve  the  seat.  With  this  addi- 
tion all  the  paces  may  soon  be  mastered  without  the  aid 
of  the  stirrups ;  but  the  trot  will  be  the  last  of  necessity 
because  it  is  by  far  the  most  difficult.  No  rise  can  then 
be  managed  ;  and  the  body  must  be  suffered  to  take  its 
chance  upon  the  saddle,  leaning  back  to  rather  more  than 
the  perpendicular  position,  and  not  attempting  to  do  more 
than  to  keep  the  balance.  When  riding  without  stirrups, 
the  feet  should  be  carried  in  the  same  position  as  if  they 
were  being  used,  the  heel  being  carefully  depressed,  and 
the  toes  raised  by  the  muscular  power  of  the  leg. 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  117 

FEMALE  HORSEMANSHIP. 

The  saddlery  for  the  use  of  the  ladies  is  similar  in  prin- 
ciple to  that  devoted  to  the  gentleman's  riding,  with  the 
exception  that  the  bits  and  reins  of  the  bridle  are  lighter 
and  more  ornamental,  and  the  saddle  furnished  with 
crutches  for  side-riding;  the  reins  are  narower  than 
those  used  by  gentlemen,  bat  otherwise  the  same.  The 
saddle  should  be  carefully  fitted  to  the  horse,  and  there 
should  always  be  a  third  crutch,  the  use  of  which  will 
hereafter  be  explained  There  is  an  extra  leather  girth, 
which  keeps  the  flaps  of  the  saddle  in  their  places.  The 
stirrup  may  either  be  like  a  man's,  with  a  lining  of  leath- 
er or  velvet,  or  it  may  be  a  slipper,  which  is  safer,  and 
also  easier  to  the  foot.  The  lady's  whip  is  a  light  affair  ; 
but  as  her  horse  ought  seldom  to  require  punishment,  it 
is  carried  more  to  threaten  than  to  give  punishment.  A 
spur  may  be  added  for  a  lady's  use ;  it  is  sometimes  need- 
ful for  the  purpose  of  giving  a  stimulus  at  the  right  mo- 
ment. If  used,  it  is  buckled  on  to  the  boot,  and  a  small 
opening  is  made  in  the  habit^  with  a  string  attached  to 
the  inside,  which  is  then  tied  around  the  ankle,  and  thus 
keeps  the  spur  always  projecting  beyond  the  folds  of  the 
habit.  A  nose-martingale  is  generally  added  for  orna- 
ment ;  but  no  horse  which  throws  his  head  up  is  fit  for  a 
lady's  use.  The  lady's  horse  ought  to  be  the  most  per- 
fect of  goers,  instead  of  being,  as  it  often  is,  a  stupid  brute, 
fit  only  for  a  dray. 

Many  men  think  that  any  horse  gifted  with  a  neat  out- 
line will  carry  a  lady;  but  it  is  a  great  mistake  ;  and  if 
the  ladies  themselves  had  the  choice  of  horses,  they  would 
soon  decide  to  the  contrary.     The  only  thing  in  their  fa- 


118  THE   HORSE   OWNER 

vor,  in  choosing  a  lady's  Jiorse,  is  that  the  weight  to  be 
carried  is  generally  light,  and  therefore  a  horse  calcula- 
ted to  carry  them  is  seldom  fit  to  mount  a  man,  because 
the  weight  of  the  male  sex  is  generally  so  much  above 
that  of  an  equestrian  lady.  Few  of  this  sex  who  ride  are 
above  one  hundred  and  thirty  pounds,  and  most  are  be- 
low that  weight.  But  in  point  of  soundness,  action,  mouth 
and  temper,  the  lady's  horse  should  be  unimpeachable. 
A  gentleman's  horse  may  be  good,  yet  wholly  unable  to 
canter,  and  so  formed  that  he  cannot  be  taught;  he, 
therefore,  is  unsuited  to  a  lady  ;  but,  on  the  other  hand, 
every  lady's  horse  should  do  all  his  paces  well.  Many 
ladies,  it  is  true,  never  trot ;  but  they  should  not  be  fur- 
nished with  the  excuse  th:it  they  cannot  because  their 
horses  will  not.  In  size  the  lady's  horse  should  be  about 
fifteen  hands  or  from  fourteen  and  a  half  to  fifteen  and  a 
half;  less  than  this  allows  the  habit  to  trail, in  the  dirt 
and  more  makes  the  horse  too  lofty  and  unwieldy  for  a 
laily's  use.  In  breaking  the  lady's  horse,  if  he  is  of  good 
temper  and  fine  m  )uth,  little  need  be  done  to  make  him 
canter  easily,  and  with  the  right  leg  foremost.  This  is  nec- 
essary, because  the  other  leg  is  uncomfortable  to  the  rider 
from  her  side  position  on  the  saddle  ;  the  breaker,  there- 
fore, should  adopt  the  means  already  described,  and  per- 
severe until  the  horse  is  quite  accustomed  to  the  pace, 
and  habitually  starts  off  with  the  right  leg.  He  should 
also  bend  him  thoroughly,  so  as  to  make  him  canter  well 
on  his  hind  legs,  and  not  with  the  disturbed  aotion  which 
one  so  often  sees.  The  curb  must  be  used  for  this  pur- 
pose, but  without  bearing  too  strongly  up  )n  it ;  the  horse 
must  be  brought  to  his  paces  by  fine  handling  rather  than 
by  force,  and  by   occasional  pressure,  which  he  will  yield 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  119 

to  and  play  with  if  allowed,  rather  than  by  a  dead  pull. 
In  this  way,  by  taking  advantage  of  everv  inch  yielded, 
and  yet  not  going  too  far,  the  hea  1  is  gradually  brought 
in  and  the  hind  legs  as  gradually  are  thrust  forward,  so  as 
instinctively  to  steady  the  mouth  and  prevent  the  pressure 
which  is  feared.  When  this  "  sitting  on  the  haunches  "  is 
accomplished,  a  horse-cloth  may  be  strapped  on  the  near 
side  of  the  saddle,  to  accustom  him  to  the  flapping  of  the 
habit;  but  I  have  always  found,  in  an  ordinarily  good-tem- 
pered horse,  that  if  the  paces  and  mouth  were  all  perfect, 
the  habit  is  sure  to  be  borne. 

It  is  a  kind  of  excuse  which  gentlemen  are  too  apt  to 
make,  that  their  horses  have  never  carried  a  lady ;  but  if 
they  will  carry  a  gentleman  quietly,  they  will  always  car- 
ry a  lady  in  the  same  style,  though  they  may  not  perhaps 
be  suitable  to  her  seat  or  hand.  The  directions  for  hold- 
ing the  reins,  and  for  tlieir  use,  already  given,  apply 
equally  well  to  ladies;  the  only  difference  being  that  the 
knee  prevents  the  hand  being  lowered  to  the  pommel  of 
the  saddle.  This  is  one  reason  why  the  neck  requires  to 
be  more  bent  than  for  the  gentleman's  use,  because,  if  it 
is  straight,  or  at  all  ewe-necked,  the  hands  being  high 
raise  the  head  into  the  air,  and  make  the  horse  more  of  a 
•'star  gazer"  than  he  otherwise  would  be.  Many  ladies 
hold  the  reins  as  in  driving,  the  directions  for  which  are 
given  elsewhere.  (See  Driving.)  It  is  in  some  respects 
better,  because  it  allows  the  hand  to  be  lower  than  in  the 
gentleman's  mode,  and  the  ends  of  the  reins  fall  better 
over  the  habit.  In  mounting,  the  horse  is  held  steadily, 
as  for  a  gentleman's  use  taking  care  to  keep  him  v/ell  up 
to  the  place  where  the  lady  stands,  from  which  he  is  very 
apt  to  slide  away.     The  gentleman  assistant  then  places 


120  THE   HORSE   OWNER's 

his  right  hand  on  his  right  knee,  or  a  little  below  it,  and 
receives  the  lady's  left  foot,  Previously  to  this,  she 
should  have  taken  the  rein  in  her  right  hand,  which  is 
placed  on  the  middle  crutch ;  then  with  her  left  on  the 
gentleman's  shoulder,  and  her  foot  in  his  hand,  she  makes 
a  spring  from  the  ground,  and  immediately  stiffens  her 
left  leg,  using  his  hand,  steadied  by  his  knee,  as  a  second 
foundation  for  a  spring :  and  then  she  is  easily  lifted  to 
her  seat  by  the  hand  following  and  finishing  her  spring 
with  what  little  force  is  required.  As  she  rises,  the  hand 
still  keeps  hold  of  the  crutch,  which  throws  the  body  side- 
ways on  the  saddle,  and  then  she  lifts  her  right  knee  over 
the  middle  crutch.  After  this  she  lifts  herself  up  from 
the  saddle,  and  the  gentleman  draws  her  habit  from  un- 
der her  until  smooth;  he  then  places  her  left  foot  in  the 
stirrup,  including  with  it  a  fold  of  her  habit,  and  she 
is  firmly  seated,  and  should  take  her  reins,  and  use  them 
as  directed  for  the  gentleman.  The  great  mistake  which 
is  constantly  made  in  mounting  is  in  the  use  of  the  lady's 
knee,  which  should  be  carefully  straightened  the  moment 
it  can  be  effected  ;  for  if  kept  bent  it  requires  great  power 
to  lift  a  lady  into  the  saddle,  whereas,  with  a  good  spring 
a'ul  a  straight  knee,  she  ought  to  weigh  but  a  few  pounds 
in  the  iiand. 

The  lady's  seat  is  very  commonly  supposed  to  be  a  weak 
one,  and  to  depend  entirely  upon  balance,  but  this  is  the 
greatest  possible  mistake  ;  and  there  ean  be  no  doubt  from 
what  is  seen  in  private,  as  well  as  in  the  circus,  that  it 
requires  as  great  an  effort  of  the  horse  to  dislodge  a  good 
female  rider,  as  to  produce  the  same  effect  upon  a  gentle- 
man. Even  with  the  old  single  cratch,  there  was  a  good 
hold  with  the  leg,  but  now  that  the  third  is  added,  the  grip 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  121 

is  really  a  firm  one.  When  this  is  not  used,  the  crutch 
is  laid  hold  of  by  the  right  leg,  and  pinched  between 
the  calf  of  the  leg  and  the  thigh,  so  as  to  afford  a 
firm  and  steady  hold  for  the  whole  body,  especially  when 
aided  by  the  stirrups.  But  this  latter  support  merely  pre- 
serves the  balance,  and  is  useful  also  in  trotting;  it  does 
not  at  all  give  a  firm,  steady  seat,  though  it  adds  to  one 
already  obtained  by  the  knee.  When  two  crutches  are 
used,  the  leg  is  brought  back  so  far  as  to  grasp  the  crutch 
as  before,  but  between  the  two  knees  the  two  crutches  are 
firndy  laid  hold  of,  the  upper  one  being  under  the  right 
knee,  and  the  lower  one  above  the  left.  The  right  knee 
hooked  over  the  crutch  keeps  the  body  from  slipping 
backwards,  whilst  the  left  keeps  it  from  a  forward  mo- 
tion, and  thus  the  proper  position  is  maintained.  In  all 
cases,  the  right  foot  should  be  hept  back,  and  the  point 
of  the  toe  should  scarcely  be  visible.  These  points  should 
be  carefully  kept  in  view  by  all  lady  riders,  and  they 
should  learn  as  soon  as  possible  to  steady  themselves  by 
ithis  grasp  of  the  crutches  without  reference  to  the  stirrup- 
iron.  In  spite  of  her  side-seat,  the  body  should  be  square 
to  the  front,  with  the  elbow  easily  bent  and  preserved  in 
its  proper  position  by  the  same  precaution.  ''J.'he  wdiip  is 
generally  keld  in  the  right  hand,  with  the  lash  pointing 
forward,  and  toward  the  left,  and  by  this  position  it  may 
be  used  on  any  part  of  the  horse's  body  by  reaching  over 
to  the  left  and  cutting  before  or  behind  the  saddle,  or  with 
great  ease  on  the  right  side.  Its  use  may,  therefore,  in  all 
cases  be  substituted  for  the  pressure  of  the  leg  in  the 
description  of  the  modes  of  effecting  the  change  of  leg, 
turning  to  the  left  or  right,  or  leading  with  either  leg. 
With  this  substitution,  and    with   the  caution  against   all 


122  THE   HORSE   OWNER'S 

violent  attempts  at  coercion,  whicli  are  better  carried  out 
by  the  fine  hand  and  delicate  tact  of  the  lady,  all  the 
feats  which  man  can  perform  may  well  be  imitated  by 
her.  In  dismounting  the  horse  is  brought  to  a  dead  stop, 
and  his  head  held  by  an  assistant;  the  lady  then  turns 
her  knee  back  again  from  the  position  between  the  out- 
side crutch,  takes  her  foot  out  of  the  stirrup,  and  sits  com- 
pletely sideways ;  she  then  puts  her  left  hand  on  the  gen- 
tleman's shoulder,  who  places  his  right  arm  around  her 
waist,  and  lightly  assists  her  to  the  ground, 

DRIVING. 

Driving  a  single  horse  is  a  very  simple  process,  and  re- 
quires only  a  good  hand  and  eye.  The  reins  are  held 
differently  from  riding ;  the  near  rein  passing  over  the 
fore-finger,  and  the  off  between  it  and  the  middle  finger 
and  then  through  the  hand,  descending  from  the  palm 
by  the  side  of  the  knees.  The  thumb  keeps  the  near  rein 
firmly  against  the  forefinger,  and  1  have  always  found  it 
a  good  plan  to  pass  both  reins  out  of  the  hand  between 
the  little  and  ring  fingers,  so  that  without  keeping  the 
thumb  very  firmly  fixed,  they  do  not  slip  through  the 
fingers  when  the  horse  makes  a  mistake.  This  has  saved 
me  many  an  accident,  because  when  a  person  is  tired  with 
driving  many  miles  and  the  attention  flags,  a  horse  in 
making  a  mistake  is  not  checked  till  it  is  too  late,  in 
consequence  of  the  thumb  and  fore-finger  suffering  the 
rein  to  slip  some  inches  before  it  is  held  firmly  between 
them  ;  but  when  passing  through  an  additional  pair  of 
fingers,  and  maki)ig  an  angle  in  oider  to  do  this,  it  is  as- 
tonishing how  firmly  the  reins  are  held,  and  yet  with  how 
much  less  fatigue  to  the  hand.     The   bearing-rein   is   now 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  123 

almost  totally  out  of  use  in  a  single  harness,  where  it  is  no 
more  needed  than  for  riding,  because  the  driver  has  even 
more  command  of  the  mouth  than  if  he  were  in  the  sad- 
dle. There  is  no  doubt  that  a  bearing  rein  is  better  than 
a  careless  driver ;  but  with  ordinary  care  the  horse  is 
saved  by  a  slight  check,  which  does  not  keep  him  up,  but 
makes  him  keep  himself  up.  This  he  is  partly  prevented 
from  doing  from  the  confinement  of  the  head,  caused  by 
the  bearing  rein ;  and,  therefore,  although  it  is  useful  in 
driving  the  horse  to  hold  the  head  up,  it  is  injurious  to  an 
equal  extent  by  confining  him  from  that  quick  exertion 
of  his  power,  which  might  save  him  from  a  fall.  It  is 
true  that  many  old  horses  having  been  used  to  lean  upon 
the  bearing- rein — can  not  safely  be  driven  without;  but 
in  most  of  those  which  have  never  been  accustomed  to  its 
use,  it  may  safely  be  dispensed  with.  I  have  had  some 
few  which  never  could  be  trusted  without  a  bearing-rein 
broken  in  carefully  for  me  ;  but  this  was  from  defective 
action,  and  from  that  straight-necked  form  which  is  almost 
sure  to  lead  to  a  heavy  hanging  upon  the  bit. 

It  is  astonishing  how  seldom  one  sees  a  city  horse  down 
now  as  compared  with  former  years,  when  this  rein  was  in 
general  use  ;  and  yet  those  horses  are  quite  as  hard  worked 
as  ever,  and  often  with  scarcely  one  good  leg  out  of  the 
four.  But  with  their  heads  at  liberty,  and  only  a  double 
reined  snaffle,  they  rarely  make  a  mistake  ;  or,  if  they  do 
they  are  almost  sure  to  save  themselves  from  it.  Too  tight 
a  rein  is  quite  as  bad  as  holding  it  too  loose,  and  a  gagged 
horse  will  be  so  confined  in  his  action  as  to  be  always  mak- 
ing mistakes.  The  head  should  have  a  tolerable  degree  of 
liberty,  the  mouth  just  fee.ing  the  hand,  so  as  in  a  good 
mouth  to  lead  to  that   playing   with  the  bit  which  is  the 


124  THE   HORSE   OWNER's 

perfection  of  breaking  and  driving.  By  this  means  that 
tendency  to  keep  within  the  bit,  and  to  avoid  its  pressure 
which  a  fine  mouth  will  always  show ;  and  yet,  when 
there  is  high  courage,  a  constant  desire  to  pass  forward 
as  soon  as  the  hand  is  at  all  relaxed  ;  up  a  steep  hill,  the 
head  should  have  entire  liberty,  while  down-hill  the  hand 
should  be  shortened  upon  the  rein,  and  with  his  knees 
straight,  and  the  feet  well  out,  the  driver  should  be  pre- 
pared for  a  mistake,  and  ready  to  assist  if  it  is  made,  not 
by  violently  dragging  at  the  head,  but  by  checking  suffl- 
ciently  without  gagging  the  horse.  The  mere  avoiding 
of  other  vehicles  in  meeting  or  passing  is  too  simple  an 
affair  to  require  minute  description.  In  driving  a  pair, 
the  great  art  consists  in  the  putting  them  together,  so  as 
to  draw  equally,  and  to  step  together.  To  do  this  well, 
the  horses  must  match  in  action  and  temper,  two  ponies 
being  much  better  than  a  free  tempered  horse,  with  a 
horse  with  but  little  spirit ;  because,  in  this  case,  the  whip 
applied  to  the  one  only  makes  the  other  more  free,  and  as 
a  consequence,  it  is  impossible  to  make  them  draw  equal- 
ly. In  some  cases,  where  tvvo  horses  are  exactly  equally 
matched,  the  coupling-reins  must  both  be  of  equal  length  ; 
but  this  is  seldom  the  case;  and  when  they  do  not  do  an 
equal  amount  of  work,  the  coupling-rein  of  the  free  one 
must  be  taken  up,,  and  that  of  the  idle  horse  let  out. 
In  watching  the  working  of  the  two  horses,  the  pole  pieces 
should  always  be  the  guide ;  and  if  both  are  slack,  with 
the  end  of  the  pole  steady,  and  neither  horse  shouldering 
it,  the  driver  may  rest  contented  that  each  of  his  horses  is 
doino-  his  share ;  if,  however,  the  pole  is  shouldered  by 
either,  that  horse  is  a  rogue,  and  is  making  the  other  do 
more  than   his  share,    keeping  the  pole  straight  by    the 


ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE.  125 

pressure  of  his  slioulder  instead  of  pnllinjy  at  the  traces. 
Oil  the  otlier  hainl  if  eitlier  horse  is  palling  away  from 
the  pole,  and  straining  at  the  pole-piece,  he  is  doing  more 
than  his  share,  and  his  coupling-rein  must  be  taken  in  ac- 
cordingly. Sometimes  both  shoulder  the  pole,  or  spread 
from  it,  which  are  equally  unsightly  habits,  and  may  gen- 
erally be  cured  by  an  alteration  of  the  coupling-reins  of 
both  horses,  letting  them  out  for  the  shouldering  and  tak- 
ing them  in  for  the  opposite.bad  habit.  The  reins  are  held 
for  double-harness  as  for  single.  Bearing-reins  are  more 
necessary  here  than  in  single  harness,  because  there  is 
not  the  same  ini'nediate  command  of  a  horse  ;  but  in  toler- 
ably active  and  safe  goers  there  is  little  necessity  for 
them.  It  is  only  when  horses  stand  about  much  that 
they  are  wanted,  and  then  only  for  display  j  but  for  this 
they  certainly  are  of  service,  as  the  horse  stands  in  a 
very  proud  and  handsome  attitude  when  "borne  up," 
and  the  pair  match  much  better  than  when  they  are 
suffered  to  stand  at  ease.  In  driving  a  pair,  it  should 
always  be  remembered  that  there  are  two  methods  of 
driving  round  a  curve,  one  by  pulling  the  inside  rein, 
and  the  other  by  hitting  the  outside  horse  ;  and  these  two 
should  generally  be  combined,  graduating  the  use  of  the 
whip  by  the  thinness  of  the  skin  of  the  horse.  In  all  cases 
the  whip  is  required*  in  double-harness,  if  not  to  drive 
horses  when  thoroughly  put  together,  yet  to  make  them 
pull  equally  ;  and  there  are  few  pairs  which  do  not  occa- 
sionally want  a  little  reminding  of  their  duties.  A  con- 
stant change  from  one  side  to  the  other  is  a  prevention  of 
those  tricks  and  bad  habits  which  horses  get  into  if  they 
are  always  kept  to  one  side  only.  The  coachman  should, 
therefore,  change   them    every    now    and   then,   and  back 


126  THE   HORSE   OWNEr's 

again,  SO  as  to  make  what  was  a  puller  from  the  pole 
rather  bear  toward  it  than  otherwise  when  put  on  the 
other  side.  Various  devices  are  used  by  old  hands  for 
curing  vices,  which  the  fore  pai  t  of  this  book  explains. 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  127 

BY-LAWS 

OF  THE 

National  Association  for  the  Promotion  of  the  Interests  of  the 
Amcriean  Trotting  Turf. 


Akticle  1.  Name.  This  Association  shall  be  known  un- 
der the  name  of  the  "  National  Association  for  the  promotion 
of  the  interests  of  the  American  Trotting  Turf," 

Akticle  2.  Object.  This  Association  shall  have  for  its 
principal  object,  the  prevention,  detection  and  punishment 
of  frauds  on  the  Trotting  Turf  of  America,  and  to  elevate  the 
standard  of  trotting. 

Article  3.  Officers.  The  officers  of  this  Association  shall 
consist  of  a  President,  as  many  Vice-Presidents  as  there  are 
associated  courses  repesented.  Secretary  and  Treasurer 
The  duties  of  the  Secretary  and  Treasurer  shall  be  discharged 
by  one  and  the  same  person. 

Article  4.  President.  The  President  shall  be  a  member 
of  the  Board  of  Appeals,  and,  when  present,  shall  preside  at 
all  meetings  of  the  Association  and  of  the  Board  of  Appeals, 
and  shall  have  the  casting  vote  at  such  meetings. 

Article  5,  Vice-Presidents.  It  shall  be  the  duty  of  the 
Vice-Presidents  to  see  that  the  Secretary  is  furnished  with  a 
statement  of  all  official  acts  of  the  executive  officers  of  their 
respective  courses,  relating  to  this  Association;  and  at  the 
end  of  the  trotting  season,  each  year,  to  prepare  a  review  of 
the  whole,  together  with  an  official  summary  of  all  races  upon 
their  respective  courses :  said  summary  shall  contain  the 
date,  the  amount  or  value  of  the  purse,  match  or  sweepstake, 
the  full  terms  and  conditions  of  the  race ;  the  name  of  the 
person  nominating  each  horse ;  the  name  of  each  driver,  and 
the  color,  sex  and  name  of  each  horse  entered;  the  position 


128  THE   HORSE   OWNER's 

of  each  and  every  horse  in  each  heat;  the  drawn,  distanced 
and  ruled  out  horses ;  the  official  time  of  each  and  every  heat ; 
the  names  of  the  Judges,  and  such  notes  and  remarks  as  are 
necessary  for  a  plain  comprehension  of  the  whole.  They 
shall  also  furnish  a  list  of  all  persons  that  have  been  fined, 
suspended  or  expelled,  together  with  the  amount  of  fines  and 
term  of  suspension;  and  shall  furnish  a  list  of  the  officers  of 
their  respective  associations  or  courses,  with  their  post  office 
address. 

Article  6.  Secretary  and  Treasurer.  It  shall  be  the  duty 
of  the  Secretary,  Avhen  present,  to  act  as  Secretary  at  all 
meetings  of  the  Association  and  Board  of  Appeals.  He  shall 
keep  a  record,  to  be  kept  in  a  book  for  that  purpose,  of  all  the 
proceedings  of  such  meetings ;  and,  by  order  of  the  President, 
call  all  meetings  of  the  Association  and  Board,  and  attend  to 
all  correspondence  relating  to  the  afiairs  of  the  Association- 
He  shall  furnish  each  associated  course  with  a  written  or 
printed  copy  of  the  proceedings  of  all  the  meetings  of  the 
Association  and. Board  of  Appeals;  and,  at  the  close  of  each 
year,  he  shall  compile  and  arrange  an  official  record,  which 
shall  contain  the  proceedings  in  detail  of  all  meetings  of  this 
Association  and  Board  of  Appeals,  during  the  year;  a  com- 
plete record  of  all  races  over  each  and  all  the  associate  cours- 
es ;  a  complete  list  of  persons  and  horses  that  have  been  fined, 
suspended  or  expelled,  together  with  the  amount  of  fines  and 
term  of  suspension,  and  such  other  matters  as  may  be  of  in- 
terest and  service  to  the  Association.  Of  the  matter  so  col- 
lected, he  shall  have  prepared  at  least  one  printed  copy  for 
each  of  the  associated  courses,  and  as  many  more  as  the 
Board  of  Appeals  may,  in  their  judgment,  deem  expedient; 
said  last  mentioned  copies  to  be  disposed  of  by  sale,  for  the 
benefit  of  the  Association,  or  in  such  other  manner  as  the 
Board  of  Appeals  may  direct. 

And  in  his  capacity  as  Treasurer,  he  shall  receive  nnd  take 
charge  of  all  monies  that  may  be  due  to  the  Association,  and 
make  therefrom  such  disbursements  in  payment  of  demands 
growing  out  of  the  legitimate  transactions  of  the  Association, 
as  may  be  sanctioned  by  the  Board  of  Ajopeals.    He  shall 


ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE.  129 

keep  full,  accurate  and  distinct  accounts  of  his  receipts  and 
disbursements,  and  shall  prepare  a  statement  at  the  end  of 
each  year,  (and  as  much  oftener  as  the  Board  of  Appeals  may 
require,)  showing  the  receipts,  expenses  and  the  financial 
condition  of  the  Association. 

AuTiCLE  7.  Board  of  Appeals.  The  board  of  Appeals  shall 
consist  of  nine  (9)  members,  of  whom  the  President  shall  be 
one,  and  shall  have  semi-annual  meetings  at  the  office  of  the 
Secretary,  viz.' :  the  second  Tuesday  in  July  and  January. 
Special  meetings  may  be  called  whenever  deemed  necessary 
by  the  President;  and  at  all  meetings,  whether  regular  or 
special,  four  (4)  members  of  the  Board  shall  constitute  a  quo- 
ram  for  the  transaction  of  business.  Due  notice  of  all  meet- 
ings in  manner  provided  for  notice  of  Association  meetings 
shall  be  given  by  the  Secretary  to  each  member  of  the  board. 

The  Board  of  Appeals  shall  have  the  general  management 
control  and  superintendence  of  the  afiairs  of  this  Association, 
subject  to  the  rules,  regulations  and  by-laws,  and  to  the  Sec- 
retary must  be  addressed  all  charges  against  any  member  of 
this  Association.  They  shall  examine  all  evidence  of  fraud 
or  other  matters  relating  to  the  turf  that  is  brought  before 
them,  and  shall  take  such  measures  to  ascertain  the  truth  or 
falsity  of  ail  charges  as  in  their  judgment  is  deemed  necessa- 
ry and  proper. 

The  Board  of  Appeals  shall  have  power  to  call  a  new  con- 
gress whenever  deemed  necessary  to  alter,  annul,  amend  or 
add  to  these  rules.  They  shall  also  be  entitled  to  the  privi- 
lege of  honorary  membership  on  the  grounds  and  premises 
of  all  the  associated  courses. 

Article  8.  Delegation.  A  delegation  to  a  general  con- 
gress shall  consist  of  one  or  more  persons,  not  exceeding 
three",  duly  authorized  in  writing  by  the  President  or  Secre- 
tary of  their  respective  associations,  or  proprietor  or  proprie- 
tors of  individual  courses. 

Article  9.  Admission  of  Members.  All  applications  for 
admission  to  this  Association  must  be  made  in  writing,  duly 
signed  and  addressed  to  the  Secretary  of  the  Board  of  Ap- 


130  THE   HOESE   OWNER's 

peals,  who  alone  are  authorized  to  admit  members.  All  new 
members  shall  abide  by  all  previous  action  of  this  Associa- 
tion, a  copy  of  which  shall  be  furnished  them  by  the  Secretary. 

Article  10.  Fee  of  Membership.  The  fee  of  membership 
shall  be  determined  by  the  Board  of  Appeals,  and  shall  be 
payable  on  or  before  the  first  day  of  April  in  each  year. 

Article  11.  Forfeiture  of  Membership.  An  association 
having  once  been  Jidmitted:  shall  continue  a  member  upon 
the  prompt  payment  of  dues  for  the  succeeding  year,  on  or 
before  its  commencement,  unless  expelled  by  vote  of  the 
Board  of  Appeals,  for  a  disobedience  of  the  rules  and  regula- 
tions or  by-laws  of  this  Association. 

Article  12.  Dtdies  of  Members.  It  shall  be  the  duty  of 
each  member  to  see  that  the  rules,  regulaticms  and  by-laws 
of  this  Association  are  rigidly  enforced  upon  their  respective 
courses. 

Members  shall  not  allow  their  courses  to  be  used  for  exhi- 
bitions of  a  character  degrading  to  the  public  standing  of  the 
National  Association,  and  they  shall  be  held  responsible  for 
any  violation  of  the  rules  of  this  Association. 

They  shall  keep  on  file  all  letters,  entries  and  communica- 
tions relating  to  their  respective  courses  for  future  reference. 

They  shall  furnish  each  owner,  trainer,  rider  or  driver, 
with  a  copy  of  the  rules  of  this  Association,  if  so  requested, 
and  shall  have  at  least  one  copy  posted  in  some  conspicuous 
place  in  the  Judges'  stand  for  the  covenience  of  the  Judges. 

Article  13.  Clerk  of  the  Course.  It  shall  be  the  duty  of 
each  member  to  provide  the  services  of  a  competent  person 
to  assist  the  Judges  in  each  and  every  race  upon  their  respec- 
tive courses,  who  shall  be  styled  the  Clerk  of  the  Course. 
He  shall  understand  the  rules  of  this  Association,  and  be  able 
to  give  any  information  in  regard  to  them  that  may  be  re- 
quired by  the  Judges. 

He  may  assist  in  weighing  riders  or  drivers,  assigning  the 
position  of  horses  before  the  race,  or  other  similar  duties  at 
the  request  of  the  Judges ;  and  shall  keep  a  book  in  which 
shall  be  recorded  a  description  of  the  dress  or  colors  of  each 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  131 

rider  or  driver,  and  tiie  weight  carried ;  he  shall  note  the  time 
when  a  heat  is  hnishcul,  and  shall  notify  the  Judges,  or  ring 
the  hell  at  the  expiration  of  the  time  allowed  between  heats; 
he  maj'  assist  the  Judges  in  placing  the  horses  at  the  linish 
of  a  heat.  He  shall  record  in  a  book  to  be  kept  for  that  pur- 
pose, an  account  of  every  heat,  in  the  following  form,  to  wit: 
First — all  horses  entered,  and  the  name  of  the  riders  or  driv- 
ers ;  next,  the  starting  horses  and  the  positions  assigned  them ; 
next,  a  record  of  each  heat,  givmg  the  position  of  each  horse 
at  the  finish;  then  the  official  time  of  each  heat;  and,  at  the 
end,  an  official  summary  of  the  race,  giving  the  drawn,  dis- 
tanced and  ruled  out  horses,  if  any  there  be.  He  shall  record 
all  protests,  fines,  penalties  and  appeals.  This  book  shall  be 
signed  by  the  Judges,  and  shall  constitute  the  official  record. 

Article  14.  Annual  Meetings.  The  annual  meetings  of 
this  Association  shall  be  held  the  first  Wednesday  in  February 
in  each  year,  at  such  place  as  may  be  chosen  at  the  annual 
meeting  next  preceding ;  a  written  or  printed  notice  of  each 
meeting  shall  be  mailed,  postage  paid,  and  addressed  by  the 
Secrertary  to  each  member,  at  least  thirty  days  prior  to  such 
meeting;  and  only  those  associations  or  courses  shall  be  en- 
titled to  be  represented  at  such  annual  meetings  as  may,  ac- 
cording to  the  books  of  the  Association,  have  been  members 
for  six  months  next  preceding  such  meeting.  Each  mem- 
ber shall  be  entitled  to  one  vote,  and  they  may  vote  by  dele- 
gates duly  authorized,  or  in  writing  as  they  prefer. 

Article  15.  Special  Meetings.  Special  meetings  of  the 
Association  shall  be  called  by  the  Secretary,  whenever  re- 
quested by  the  Board  of  Appeals,  or  in  writing  by  a  majority 
of  the  members,  and  fifteen  days  notice  shall  be  given  by  the 
Secretary,  to  each  member,  of  special  meetings  in  the  man- 
ner provided  for  notice  of  annual  meetings;  one-fourth  of 
the  members  shall  be  represented  to  constitute  a  quorum  for 
the  transaction  of  business  in  any  special  meeting. 

Article  16.  Election  of  Officers.  The  President  and  Board 
of  Appeals  shall  be  chosen  at  the  inaugural  meeting  of  the 
Association,  and  annually  thereafter,  and  shall  retain  their 
respective  offices  until  their  successors  are  appointed.      In 


132  THE   HORSE   OWNER's 

case  of  the  resignation  or  death  of  any  of  their  members,  the 
Board  of  Appeals  shall  have  power  to  fill  vacancies  until  the 
next  election. i 

The  Vice-President  shall  be  chosen  annuall}^  by'the  execu- 
tive officers  of  their  respective  associations  or  courses,  in 
such  manner  as  they  may  elect,  and  shall  retain  their  office 
until  a  successor  is  appointed.  Notices  of  all  such  elections 
shall  be  given  to  the  Secretary  of  this  Association  within 
thirty  (30)  days  thereafter. 

The  Secretary  and  Treasurer  shall  be  elected  by  the  Board 
of  Appeals,  and  shall  hold  his  office  until  a  successor  is  ap- 
pointed. • 

Article  17.  Entries.  The  hour  for  closing  the  entries  of 
all  parses  or  premiums  offered  by  any  of  the  associated  cours- 
es shall  be  9  o'clock,  P.  M.  All  letters  of  entries  bearing 
postmark  the  date  of  closing,  shall  be  eligible. 

AiiTiCLE  18.  Fines.  All  fines  shall  revert  to  the  National 
Association,  and  shall  be  paid  to  the  Treasurer  upon  demand. 

Article  19.  Length  of  Tracks.  All  members  of  this  As- 
sociation shall,  upon  demand,  furnish  the  Secretary  with  the 
statement  of  a  competent  civil  engineer,  who  shall  certify 
under  oath  the  exact  distance  of  their  resyective  tracks, 
measured  just  three  feet  from  the  pole — that  is  to  say,  the  in- 
side fence  or  ditch.  These  certificates  shall  be  endorsed  by 
the  proper  officer  of  the  course  designated,  and  shall  be  plac- 
ed upon  the  records  of  this  Association. 

Article  20. .  By-Laws.  Each  Association  may  be  govern- 
ed by  its  own  by-laws,  provided  they  do  not  conflict  with 
these,  or  with  the  rules  and  regulations  adopted  by  this  As- 
sociation. 

J  These  by-laws  may  be  amended  whenever  required  by  two. 
thirds  of  the  members;  but  notice  of  such  amendment  shall 
be  given  in  the  call  of  the  meeting  at  which  they  are  to  be 
submitted. 

A  true  copy  from  the  record,  March  9,  1871. 
Attest — 

George  Smith, 

Secretary, 


ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE.  133 


RULES  AND  REGULATIONS 


OF  THE 

NATIONAL  ASSOCIATION 

FOR  THE  PR0:M0TI0N"  OF  THE  INTERESTS  OF 
THE  AMERICAN  TROTTING  TURF. 

Enacted  by  the  National  Association  at  the  An- 
nual Meeting,  held  at  Buffalo,  New  York,  on 
THE  FIRST  Wednesday  in  Febkuary,  1871. 


Rule  1.  Mandate.  All  trotting  and  pacing  engagements 
and  performances  over  the  several  courses,  which  are,  or 
sliall  be  represented  by  membership  in  the  "  National  As- 
sociation FOR  THE  Promotion  op  the  Interests  of  the 
American  Trotting  Turf,"  and  each  and  every  person  who 
shall,  in  any  way,  be  concerned  or  employed  therein,  as  well 
as  all  associations  and  proprietors  themselves  who  are  or 
shall  become  members  of  said  National  Association,  shall  be 
governed  by  the  following  rules  from  and  after  February  1st, 
1871 :    [See,  also.  Articles  12  and  13  of  By-Laws.] 

Rule  2.  Entries.  All  entries  for  premiums  must  be  made 
under  cover,  enclosing  the  entrance-money  for  purses  and 
forfeits  in  sweepstakes,  and  then  sealed  and  addressed  to  or 
deposited  with  the  Secretary,  or  some  person  authorized  to 
receive  the  same,  at  such  time  and  place  as  the  associa- 
tions may  have  prescribed.  Notices  of  intention  to  enter 
will  be  received  by  talegraph  up  to  the  hour  advertised  for 


lo4  THE    HOESE    OVv'NEE's 

closing,  and  all  such  entries  shall  be  eligible,  provided  the 
entrance  fee  specified  shall  be  paid  in  due  course,  by  mail  or 
otherwise.     [See,  also,  Art.  IT  of  By-Laws.] 

It  shall  be  the  duty  of  the  Secretary,  or  other  person  au- 
thorized, to  prepare  the  list  of  entries  for  publication,  com- 
prising all  such  information  in  a  comprehensive  manner, 
for  the  enlightenment  of  the  general  public  and  parties  to  the 
race;  and  all  entries,  as  aforesaid,  shall  be  opened  and  an- 
nounced at  a  public  meeting,  of  which  reasonable  notice  by 
advertisement  or  otherwise,  shall  be  given  to  the  parties  in 
interest. 

Rule  3.  Entrance  Fee.  The  entrance  fee  shall  be  ten  per 
cent,  of  tlie  purse,  unless  otherwise  specified;  and  any  per- 
son refusing  to  pay  his  entrance  dues  upon  demand  by  the 
proper  authority,  shall,  together  with  his  horse  or  horses,  be 
suspended  until  they  are  paid  in  full,  with  an  addition  of  ten 
per  cent,  penalty,  and  interest  at  seven  per  cent,  per  an- 
num, until  paid.  The  penalty  to  go  to  the  National  As- 
sociation. 

Rule  4.  How  inany  to  Enter.  In  all  purses,  three'or  more 
entries  are  required,  and  two  to  start,  unless  otherwise 
specified. 

Rule  5.  Horses  to  be  Eligible  when  Entries  Close.  A  horse 
shall  not  be  eligible  to  start  in  any  race,  that  has  beaten  the 
time  advertised,  prior  to  the  closing  of  the  entries  for  the 
race  in  which  he  is  entered. 

Horses  shall  not  be  eligible  if  the  time  specified  has  been 
beaten  by  them  at  a  greater  distance;  that  is,  a  horse  hav- 
ing made  two  miles  in  five  minutes  is  eligible  for  a  2.30  race, 
but  not  eligible  for  a  race  slower  than  that  time. 

Rule  6.  Name  and  Description  of  Each  Horse  Required. 
An  accurate  and  satisfictory  description  of  each  entry  will 
be  required,  and  shall  be  in  tlie  following  form,  to  wit. : 
Color.  The  color  and  marks  shall  be  accurately  given. 
Sex.  It  shall  be  distinctly  stated  whether  the  entry  be  a 
stallion,  mare  or  gelding,  and  the  names  of  the  sire  and  dam 
shall  be  given  when  known. 


ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE.  135 

Name  of  Horse.  Evory  horse  shall  be  named,  and  the 
name  correctly  and  plainly  Avritten  in  the  entry;  and  if  the 
horse  has  trotted  in  a  race  under  a  dilierent  name  within  two 
years,  siicli  former  name  or  names,  must,  be  given.  If  a 
horse  has  trotted  in  any  race,  Avithout  a  name,  mention  must 
be  made  in  the  entry  of  a  sufficient  number  of  his  or  her  most 
recent  performances,  to  enable  persons  interested  to  identi- 
fy the  horse;  provided  that  it  shall  not  be  necessary  to  fur- 
nish any  one  association  or  proprietor  with  the  same  record 
the  second  time.  In  entries  and  nominations  hereafter  made , 
the  Avords  "  No  name"  shall  not  be  received  as  a  name. 
Neither  shall  such  descriptive  Avords  as  "bay  horse,"  "grey 
mare,"  etc.,  be  alloAved  as  names. 

A  horse  haA'ing  once  been  named,  shall  not  again  start  in 
a'race  on  any  course  in  the  United  States  or  Canadas,  Avith_ 
out  a  name,  or  under  a  difl'erent  name,  unless  the  foregoing 
provisions  have  been  complied  Avith. 

Double  Teams.  In  all  double-team  races,  the  entry  must 
contain  the  name  and  description  of  each  horse,  in  the  man- 
ner provided  for  entry  of  single  horses. 

Rule  7.  0}nncr''s  Mwie  and  Address.  The  post  office  ad- 
dress in  full  of  the  person  or  persons  in  Avhose  name  an  entry 
is  made,  and  11  lie  or  tliey  be  not  the  oAvner,  then  that  of  the 
OAvner  or  oAvners  also,  must  accompany  each  nomination. 

Rule  8,  Entries  that  Cannot  Start.  As  many  horses  may 
be  entered  by  one  oAvner,  or  as  many  horses  trained  in  the 
same  stable  as  may  be  desired,  but  only  one  that  has  been 
OAvned  or  controlled  in  AAiiole  or  in  part  by  the  same  person 
or  persons,  or  trained  in  the  same  stable  within  ten  days  pre- 
vious to  the  race,  can  start  in  any  race  of  heats. 

Rule  9.  No  Purse  for  a  "  Walk  Over.''''  No  purse  Avill  be 
given  for  a  "  Avalk  over,"  but  in  cases  where  only  one  of  the 
horses  entered  for  any  premium  shall  appear  on  the  course, 
he  shall  be  entitled  to  his  OAvn  entrance  money  and  to  one- 
half  of  the  entrance  money  received  from  all  other  horses 
entered  for  said  premium. 

Rule  10.    In  case  of  Death  Engagements  Void.    All  engage- 


136  THE    HORSE    OWNERS 

ments  are  void  upon  the  decease  of  either  party  or  horse,  so 
far  as  they  shall  affect  the  deceased  party  or  horse ;  bat  for- 
feits or  matches  made  play  or  pay,  shall  not  be  affected  by 
the  death  of  a  horse. 

Rule  U.  Match  Races.  In  all  match  races  these  rules 
shall  govern,  unless  the  contrary  be  expressly  stipulated  and 
assented  to  by  the  club,  association,  or  proprietors  of  the 
course  over  which  the  race  is  to  come  off. 

Rule  12.  When' Matches  become  Play  or  Pay.  In  all 
matches  made  to  come  off  over  any  of  these  courses,  the  par- 
ties shall  place  the  amount  of  the  match  in  the  hands  of  the 
stakeholder  one  day  before  the  event  (omitting  Sunday)  is  to 
come  oft*,  at  such  time  and  place  a?  the  club,  association  or 
proprietor,  upon  application  may  determine,  and  the  race 
shall  then  become  play  or  pay. 

Rule  13.  Purse  or  Stake  Wrongfully  Obtained.  A  person 
obtaining  a  stake  or  purse  through  fraud,  shall  return  it  to 
the  Treasurer  upon  demand  within  one  year,  or  be  punished 
as  follows :  He,  together  with  all  the  parties  interested,  and 
the  horse  or  horses,  shall  be  expelled  until  such  demand  is 
complied  with,  and  such  stake  or  purse  shall  be  awarded  to 
the  party  justly  entitled  to  the  same. 

Rule  14.  Fraudulent  Entries,  or  Meddling  with  Horses. 
Any  person  found  guilty  of  dosing  or  tampering  with  any 
horse,  or  of  making  a  fraudulent  entry  of  any  horse,  or  of 
disguising  a  horse  with  intent  to  conceal  his  identity,  or  be- 
ing in  any  way  concerned  in  such  a  transaction,  shall  be 
punished  by  the  forfeiture  of  entrance  money  and  expulsion ; 
and  any  horse  that  shall  have  been  painted  or  disguised,  to 
represent  another  or  a  different  horse,  or  shall  have  been  en- 
tered in  a  purse  in  which  he  does  not  belong,  shall  be  ex- 
pelled. 

Rule  15.  Reivard.  A  reward  of  $  50  will  be  paid  to  the 
person  who  shall  first  give  information  leading  to  the  detec- 
tion and  conviction  of  any  fraudulent  entry  and  the  parties 
thereto,  to  be  paid  out  of  the  funds  of  the  National  Associa- 
tion for  the  Promotion  of  the  Interests  of  tlie  American  Trot- 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  137 

ting  Tarf,  by  the  Treasurer,  npon  the  decision  and  order  of 
the  Board  of  Appeals ;  provided,  that  this  shall  not  be  con- 
strued to  extend  to  courses  outside  of  this  Association. 

Rule  16.  Protests.  Protests  may  be  made  verbally  before 
or  during  a  race,  and  shall  be  reduced  to  writing,  and  shall 
contain  at  least  on(;  specific  charge,  and  a  statement  of  Ihe 
evidence  upon  which  it  is  based,  rwid  shall  be  filed  with  the 
Judges,  Association  or]  Proprietor,  before  the  close  of  the 
meeting.  The  Judges  shall  in  every  case  of  protest  demand 
that  the  rider  or  driver  and  the  owner  or  owners,  if  present, 
shall  immediately  testify  under  oath,  in  the  manner  herein- 
after provided;  and  in  case  of  their  refusal  to  do  so,  the 
horse  shall  not  be  allowed  thereupon  to  start  or  continue  in 
that  race,  but  shall  be  considered  and  declared  ruled  out, 
with  forfeit  of  entrance  money. 

But  if  they  do  comply  and  take  the  oath,  as  herein  re- 
quired, unless  the  Judges  find  evidence  to  warrant  excluding 
tlie  horse,  they  shall  allow  him  to  start,  or  continue  in  the 
race,  under  protest,  and  the  premium,  if  any  is  won  by  that 
horse,  shall  be  retained  a  sufficient  length  of  time  (say  three 
weeks,)  to  allow  tne  parties  interested  a  chance  to  sustain 
the  allegations  of  the  protest,  and  all  outside  bets  on  such 
horse  shall  be  held  in  abeyance  pending  the  decision  of  such 
protest,  and  the  Judges  shall  waive  the  application  of  a  dis- 
tance as  to  all  other- horses  in  any  heat  which  such  protested 
horse  shall  win.  And  when  a  protest  is  presented,  before 
or  during  a  race,  and  the  parties  refuse  to  make  the  prescribed 
oath,  if  the  Judges  believe  the  refusal  is  designed  to  favor  a 
fraud,  they  may  require  the  horse,  under  protest,  to  start  or 
continue  in  the  race. 

Any  person  found  guilty  of  protesting  a  horse  falsely  and 
without  cause,  or  merely  with  intent  to  embarrass  a  race, 
shall  be  punished  by  a  fine  not  exceeding  $  100,  or  by  sus- 
pension not  to  exceed  one  year,  or  by  expulsion. 

When  a  protest  has  been  duly  made,  or  any  information 
lodged  with  the  Judges  in  support  of  such  a  protest,  alleging 
any  improper  entry  or  fraudulent  act,  such  ns  shall  be  punish- 
able under  these  rules,  the  same  shall  not  be  withdrawn  or 


138  THE    HORSE    OWNER'S 

surrendered  before  the  expiration  of  three  weeks,  except 
upon  the  decision  of  tlie  association  or  proprietor  of  the 
course  upon  wliich  such  protests  or  information  was  pro- 
duced ;  and  if  any  association  or  proprietor  shall  permit  such 
a  withdrawal  of  protest  or  information  with  a  corrupt  mo- 
tive to  fivor  any  party  who  shall  be  affected  by  the  same,  the 
association  or  proprietor  fliilty  of  this  impropriety,  if  con- 
victed thereof  by  or  before  the  Board  of  Appeals,  shall  be  ex- 
pelled from  all  connection  with  the  National  Association. 

Association  or  proprietors  shall  be  warranted  in  retaining 
the  premium  of  any  horse  in  the  manner  herein  mentioned, 
if  at  any  time  before  it  is  paid  they  shall  receive  information 
in  their  judgment  tending  to  show  fraud. 

The  oath  required  in  answer  to  protest,  shall  be  in  the  fol- 
lowing form,  to  wit. : 

I, ,  of ,  in  the  county  of , 

State  of ,  on  oath  depose  and  say,  that  I  am  the 

of  the called ,  the  same  entered 

in  a  purse  for  horses  that  have  never  trotted  better  than 

minutes  and seconds,  to  be  trotted  this  day  on  this 

course,  and  the  same  that  has  been  protested,  and  to  which 
protest  this  affidavit  is  in  answer,  hereby  declare  and  affirm 
that  to  the  best  of  my  knowledge  and  belief  said  beforemen- 
tioned  horse  is  eligible  to  start  or  compete  in  the  race  afore- 
said, according  to  the  rules  of  this  course;  and  that  I  fully 
believe  all  the  provisions  and  conditions  required  in  the 
rules  and  regulations  for  the  government  of  trials  of  speed 
over  this  course  were  fully  and  honestly  complied  with  in 
making  the  entry  aforesaid. 

Given  under  my  hand,  at ,  this 

day  of ,  A.D.  187.. 


Subscribed  and  sworn  to  before  me,  this, 
day  of A.  D.  187... 


Justice  of  the  Peace. 
[Note. — In  the  absence  of  a  Justice  of  the  Peace,  if  this 
oath  be  administered  by  an  officer  of  the  Association,  or  one 


ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE.  139 

of  the  Juiiges  of  the  r.toe,  it  will  be  considered  sufficient  for 
the  purposes  of  the  National  Association.] 

Rule  17.  W/ie?i  Horses  Shall  Not  be  Drawn.  No  person 
shall  draw  his  horse  after  said  horse  has  appeared  on  the 
track — saddled  or  harnessed — after  having  been  summoned 
to  i)i'epare  for  the  race,  or  during  a  race,  except  by  permis- 
sion of  the  Judges,  under  penalty  of  being  expelled. 

Rule  18.  Power  of  Postponement.  In  case  of  unfavorable 
weather,  or  other  unavoidable  causes,  each  association  or 
proprietor  shall  have  poAver  to  postpone  to  a  future  time  all 
parses  or  sweepstakes,  or  any  race  to  which  they  have  con- 
tributed money,  upon  giving  notice  thereof. 

Rule  19.  No  Trotting  after  Bark.  No  heat  shall  be  trot- 
ted when  it  is  so  dark  tliat  the  horses  cannot  be  plainly  seen 
by  the  Judges  from  the  stand,  but  all  such  races  shall  be  con- 
tinued by  the  Judges  to  the  next  ftiir  day,  omitting  Sunday, 
at  such  hour  as  they  shall  designate. 

In  all  matches  and  stakes,  the  above  rule  shall  govern,  un- 
less otherwise  especially  agreed  between  the  parties  and  the 
association  or  proprietors. 

Rule  20.  Weights  and  Weighing.  Every  horse  starting 
for  purse,  sweepstakes,  or  match,  in  any  trotting  or  pacing 
race,  shall  carry,  if  to  wagon  or  sulky,  150  lbs.,  exclusive  of 
harness ;  and  if  under  the  saddle,  145  lbs.,  the  saddle  and 
whip  only  to  be  weighed  with  the  rider. 

Riders  and  drivers  shall  weigh  in  the  presence  of  one  or 
more  of  the  Judges  previous  to  starting  for  any  race,  and, 
afier  each  heat,  shall  come  to  the  starting  stand  and  not  dis- 
mount or  leave  their  vehicle  without  permission  of  the 
Judges,  and  those  who  are  deficient  in  bodily  weight  shall  be 
re-weighed  after  each  heat.  Any  rider  or  driver  not  bringing 
in  his  required  weight  shall  be  distanced,^unless  such  decis- 
ion shall  be  deemed  to  favor  a  fraud.  But  a  rider  or  driver 
thrown  or  taken  by  force  from  his  horse  or  vehicle,  after 
having  passed  the  winning  post,  shall  not  be  considered  as 
having  dismounted  without  permission  of  the  Judges ;  and  if 
disabled  may  be  carried  to  the  Judges'  stand  to  be  weighed, 


140  THE    HORSE    OWXER's 

and  the  Judges  may  take  the  circumstances  into  considera- 
tion, and  decide  aceordingly.  And  the  riders  or  driA^ers  who 
shall  carry  during  the  race,  and  bring  home  with  them,  the 
weights  which  have  been  approved,  or  announced  correct 
and  proper  by  the  Judges,  shall  be  subject  to  no  penalty  for 
light  weight  in  that  heat,  provided  the  Judges  are  satisfied 
the  mistake  or  ftiult  was  their  own,  and  that  there  has  been 
no  deception  on  the  part  of  the  rider  or  driver  who  shall  be 
deficient  in  weight;  'but  all  parties  thereafter  shall  carry  the 
required  weight. 

Rule  21.  Handicaps  and  Miscellaneous  Weights.  In  match- 
es or  handicaps,  where  extra  or  lesser  weights  are  to  be  car- 
ried, the  Judges  shall  carefully  examine  and  ascertain  before 
starting,  whether  the  riders,  drivers  or  vehicles  are  of  such 
weights  as  have  been  agreed  upon  or  required  by  the  match 
ovl  handicap,  and  thereafter  the  riders  and  drivers  shall  be 
subject  to  the  same  penalties  and  copditions  as  if  they  were 
to  carry  the  weights  prescribed  by  the  rules. 

Rule  22.  When  Riders  and  Drivers  are  Overweight.  If 
the  bodily  weight  of  any  rider  or  driver  shall  be  found  to  ex- 
ceed that  which]  is  prescribed  in  the  rules,  or  that  which  is 
required  by  the  conditions  of  the  race,  and  the  overweight 
shall  exceed  twenty  pounds,  it  shall  be  announced  from  the 
stand ;  and  if  not,  the  Judges  shall  have  power,  if,  in  their 
belief,  such  extra  weight  was  imposed  on  the  horse  for  an 
improper  or  fraudulent  purpose,  to  substitute  another  rider 
or  driver  of  suitable  weight;  and  if  they  believe  the  horse 
has  been  prejudiced  in  the  race  by  such  overweight,  he  shall 
not  be  allowed  to  start  again  or  continue  in  the  race ;  and  all 
outside  bets  on  such  horse  shall  be  declared  off.  [See,  also, 
Rule  28.] 

A  horse  prevented  by  this  rule  from  continuing  in  the 
race,  shall  not  be  distanced,  but  ruled  out. 

Rule  23.  Length  of  Whips.  Riders  and  drivers  will  be 
allowed  whips  not  to  exceed  the  following  lengths :  For  sad- 
dle horses,  2  ft.  10  in.;  sulkies,  4  ft.  8  in.;  wagons,  5  ft.  10 
in. ;    double  teams,  8  ft.  6  in. ;    tandem  teams  and  four-in- 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  141 

hand,  unlimited;  snappers,  not  longer  than  three  inches, 
will  be  allowed,  in  addition  to  tlie  foregoing  measure- 
ment. 

Rule  24.  Judges''  Stand.  None  but  the  Judges  of  the  race 
in  progress,  and  their  assistants,  sliall  be  allowed  in  the  Judg- 
es stand  during  the  pendency  of  a  heat,  except  members  of 
the  Board  of  Appeals. 

Rule  25.  Selection  of  Judges.  [See,  also,  Art.  13  of  By- 
LaAYS.]  In  every  exhibition  or  race,  over  any  course  repre- 
sented in  said  National  Association,  each  course  for  itself, 
through  the  'proprietor  or  association  controlling  the  same, 
shall  choose  or  authorize  the  selection  of  three  (3)  compe- 
tent Judges,  for  the  day  or  race,  w^ho  shall  understand  the 
rules  of  said  National  Association,  and  shall  rigidly  enforce 
the  same;  and  all  their  decisions  shall  be  subject  to  and  in 
conformity  with  said  rules.  Any  person  having  any  interest 
in,  or  any  bet  dependent  upon  the  result  of  a  race,  or  having 
any  interest  in  either  of  the  horses  engaged  therein,  shall 
thereby  be  disqualified  and  restricted  from  acting  as  a  Judge 
in  that  race.  And  if  any  person  who  is  thus  disqualified 
shall  intentionally  and  deceptively  violate  this  restriction, 
he  shall,  upon  conviction  thereof  by  or  before  the  Board  of 
Appeals,  be  adjudged  guilty  of  a  dishonorable  act,  for  which 
he  shall  be  expelled  from  every  course  represented  in  said 
National  Association. 

Rule  26.  Aiitho7'Uy  of  Judges.  The  Judges  of  the  day  or 
race  shall  have  authority,  while  presiding,  to  appoint  dis- 
tance and  patrol  Judges  and  Timers,  to  inflict  fines  and  pen- 
alties, as  prescribed  by  these  rules;  to  determine  all  ques- 
tions of  fact  in  any  way  relating  to  the  race  over  which  they 
preside ;  to  decide  respecting  any  matters  of  difference  be- 
tween parties  to  a  race,  or  any  contingent  matter  which  shall 
arise,  such  as  are  not  specifically  provided  for  in  these  rules; 
but  all  their  decisions  shall  be  in  strict  conformity  with  these 
rules,  or  with  the  principles  thereof. 

They  shall  have  entire  control  over  the  horses  about  to 
start,  and  the  riders  or  drivers  and  assistants  of  the  horses. 


142  THE   HORSE   OWNER's 

and  authority  to  punish  b}'  a  fine  not  exceeding  $100,  or  by 
suspension  or  expulsion,  any  such  person  who  shall  refuse  to 
obey  their  orders. 

Rule  27.  Distance  and  Patrol  Judges.  In  all  races  of 
heats  there  shall  be  a  distance  Judge  appointed  by  the  Judges 
of  the  race,  or  by  those  in  authority,  who  shall  remain  in  the 
distance  stand  during  the  heats,  and  immediately  after  each 
heat  shall  repair  to  the  Judges'  stand,  and  report  to  the 
Judges  the  horse  or  horses  that  are  distanced,  and  any  act  of 
foul  or  improper  conduct,  if  any  has  occurred  under  his  ob- 
servation. 

Patrol  Judges  may  be  similarly  appointed,  and  it  shall  be 
their  duty  to  repair  in  like  manner  to  the  Judges'  stand,  and 
report  any  act  of  foul  or  improper  conduct,  if  any  has  oc- 
curred under  their  observation. 

Rule  28.  Powers  and  Duties  of  Judges,  The  Judges  shall 
be  in  the  stand  fifteen  minutes  before  the  time  for  starting 
the  race ;  they  shall  weigh  the  riders  or  drivers,  and  deter- 
mine the  positions  of  the  horses,  and  informi  each  rider  or 
driver  of  his  place  before  starting;  they  may  require  the 
riders  and  drivers  to  be  properly  dressed;  they  shall  be  pre- 
pared to  take  the  time  of  each  heat  in  the  race,  and  they  may 
appoint  some  suitable  person  or  persons  to  assist  them  in 
that  respect ;  and  the  time  so  taken  shall  be  recorded  and 
announced  in  conformity  with  these  rules.  [See,  also,  Rules 
30  and  40,  and  Art.  13  of  By-Laws.]  The  Judges  shall  ring 
the  bell,  or  give  other  notice  ten  minutes  previous  to  tho 
time  announced  for  the  race  to  come  off,  which  shall  be- 
notice  to  all  parties  to  prepare  for  the  race  at  the  appointed 
time,  when  al]  the  horses  mnst  appear  at  the  stand,  ready  for 
the  race;  and  any  rider  or  driver  failing  to  obey  this  sum- 
mons, may  be  punished  by  a  fine  not  exceeding  $  100,  or  liis 
horse  may  be  ruled  out  by  the  Judges  and  considered  drawn ; 
[but  in  all  stakes  and  matches  a  failure  to  appear  promptly 
at  the  appointed  time,  shall  render  the  delinquent  party  lia- 
ble to  forfeit.] 

The  rssult  of  a  heat  slmll  not  bo  announced  until  the 
Judges  are  satisfied  as  to  the  weights  of  the  riders  or  drivers, 


ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE.  143 

.and  sufficient  time  has  elapsed  to  receive  the  reports  of  the 
distance  and  patrol  Judges.  The  Judges  shall  not  notice  nor 
consider  complaints  of  foul  from  any  person  or  persons,  ex- 
cept the  distance  and  patrol  Judges  appointed  by  themselves 
or  by  those  in  authority,  and  from  owners,  riders  or  drivers 
in  the  race. 

If  the  Judges  believe  that  a  horse  is  being  or  has  been 
•'  pulled,"  or  has  been  ridden  or  driven  in  other  respects  im- 
properly, with  a  design  to  prevent  his  winning  a  heat  which 
he  was  evidently  able  to  win,  and  that  such  act  was  done, 
on  the  part  of  the  rider  or  driver,  for  the  purpose  of  perpe- 
trating or  aiding  a  fraud,  they  may  declare  that  heat  void, 
and  they  shall  have  power  to  substitute  a  competent  and  re- 
liable driver  or  rider  for  the  remainder  of  the  race;  and  if  • 
the  result  of  the  succeeding  heat  or  heats  shall  conlirm  their 
belief,  the  rider  or  driver  so  removed  shall  be  punished  by 
suspension  or  expulsion.  And,  at  the  close  of  the  race,  if 
they  are  warranted,  under  the  foregoing  circumstances,  in 
deciding  that  such  fraudulent  conduct  has  changed  the  result 
of  the  race  to  the  prejudice  of  innocent  parties,  they  shall 
declare  all  outside  bets  "  off,"  ;  and  if  the  owner  or  person  or 
persons  controlling  the  offending  horse  shall  be  a  party  or 
parties  to  such  fraud,  he  or  they  shall  be  punished  by  expul- 
sion.    [See,  also,  Rules  22  and  48.] 

Rule  29.  Starting  and  Keeping  Positions.  No  rider  or 
driver  shall  cause  unnecessary  delay  after  the  horses  are 
called  up,  either  by  neglecting  to  prepare  for  the  race  in 
time,  or  by  failing  to  come  for  the  w^ord,  or  otherwise ;  and 
in  scoring,  if  the  word  is  not  given,  all  the  horses  in  the  race 
shall  immediately  turn,  at  the  tap  of  the  bell  or  other' signal 
given,  and  jog  back  for  a  fresh  start. 

When  the  Judges  are  prevented  from  giving  a  fair  start 
by  a  horse  or  horses  persistently  scoring  ahead  of  others,  or 
being  refractory,  or  from  any  other  fault  of  either  horse, 
rider  or  driver,  they  may,  after  a  reasonable  time,  give  the 
word  without  reference  to  the  position  of  the  faulty  horse  or 
party,  or  they  may  give  the  faulty  ones  any  position  they 
think  proper  to  facilitate  the  start. 


144  THE    HORSE    OWXER's 

If  these  requirements  are  not  complied  with  on  the  part 
of  any  rider  or  driver,  the  Jutlges  may  not  only  start  the 
race,  or  give  the  Avord  without  regard  to  the  absence  or  po- 
sition of  the  offending  party  or  parties,  but  the  offender  may 
be  punished  by  a  fine  not  exceeding  $100,  or  by  suspension 
not  to  exceed  one  year. 

In  all  cases  the  word  shall  be  given  from  the  Judges' 
stand,  and  in  no  instance  shall  a  standing  start  be  given. 

When,  through  aiiy  foalt  of  either  horse,  rider  or  driver, 
the  Judges  are  prevented  from  giving  a  fair  and  prompt 
start,  they  shall  warn  the  faulty  party  of  the  penalties  to 
which  they  are  subject,  and  if  such  warning  is  not  heeded, 
they  sliall  rigidly  enforce  said  penalties. 

The  horse  winning  a  heat  shall  take  the  pole  (or  inside 
position)  the  succeeding  heat,  and  all  others  shall  take  their 
positions  in  the  order  in  wiiich  they  came  home  in  the  last 
heat.  AYhen  two  or  more  horses  shall  make  a  dead  heat, 
the  horses  shall  start  for  the'  succeeding  heat  in  the  same, 
positions  they  occupied  at  the  finish  of  the  dead  heat.  In 
coming  out  on  the  home  stretch,  the  foremost  horse  or 
horses  shall  keep  the  positions  first  selected,  or  be  liable  to 
be  distanced ;  and  the  hindmost  horse  or  horses,  when  there 
is  sufficient  room  to  pass  on  the  inside  or  anywhere  on  the 
home  stretch,  without  interfering  with  others,  shall  be  al- 
lowed to  do  so,  and  any  party  interfering  to  prevent  him  or 
them  shall  be  distanced.  If  a  horse,  in  attempting  to  pass 
another  on  the  home  stretch,  should  at  any  time  cross  or 
swerve,  so  as  to  impede  the  progress  of  a  horse  behind  him, 
he  shall  not  be  entitled  to  win  that  heat. 

Although  a  leading  horse  is  entitled  to  any  part  of  the 
track,  except  after  selecting  his  position  on  the  home 
stretch,  he  shall  not  change  from  the  right  to  the  left,  or 
from  the  inner  to  the  outer  side  of  the  track  during  any 
part  of  the  race,  when  another  horse  is  so  near  him  that, 
in  altering  his  position,  he  compels  the  horse  behind  him  to 
shorten  his  stride,  or  causes  the  rider  or  driver  of  such  other 
horse  to  pull  him  out  of  liis  stride;  neither  shall  any  horse, 
rid^r  or  driver,  cross,  jostle,  or  strike  ano  ther  horse,  rider 


ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE.  145 

or  driver,  nor  swerve  or  do  any  other  thing  that  impedes  the 
progress  of  another  horse ;  nor  shall  any  horse,  in  passing 
a  leading  horse,  take  the  track  of  the  other  horse  so  soon 
after  getting  the  lead  as  to  cause  the  horse  passed  to  shorten 
his  stride. 

In  any  heat,  wlierein  there  shall  be  a  violation  of  any  of 
these  restrictions,  the  offending  horse  shall  not  be  entitled 
to  win  the  heat,  and  he  shall  be  placed  behind  all  other 
liorses  in  that  heat.  And  if  the  impropriety  was  intentional 
on  the  part  of  the  rider  or  driver,  the  offending  horse  may 
be  distanced,  and  the  rider  or  driver  shall  be  suspended  or 
expelled.     [See,  also.  Rule  48.] 

Rule  30.  Horses  Breakiiig.  When  any  horse  or  horses 
break  from  their  gait  in  trotting  or  pacing,  their  riders  or 
drivers  shall  at  once  pull  them  to  the  gait  in  which  they 
were  to  go  the  race,  and  any  party  refusing  or  failing  to 
comply  with  this  requirement,  if  he  come  out  ahead,  shall 
lose  the  heat,  and  the  next  best  horse  shall  win  the  heat,  and 
whether  the  breaking  horse  come  out  ahead  or  not,  all  other 
horses  shall  be  placed  ahead  of  him  in  that  heat,  and  the 
Judges  shall  have  discretionary  power  to  distance  the  offend- 
ing horse  or  horses,  and  tlie  rider  or  driver  may  be  punished 
by  a  fine  not  to  exceed  •'$100,  or  by  suspension  not  exceeding 
one  year.  Sh(Viild  the  rider  or  driver  comply  with  this  re- 
quirement, and  the  horse  should  gain  by  a  break,  twice  the 
distance  so  gained  shall  be  taken  from  him  at  the  coming 
out;  but  this  provision  must  not  be  so  construed  as  to 
shield  any  trotting  or  pacing  horse  from  punishment  for  run- 
ning. In  case  of  any  such  horse  repeatedly  breaking,  or 
running  or  pacing  while  another  horse  is  trotting,  or  so  con- 
tinuing in  a  run  or  pace,  as  to  violate  the  first  requirement 
in  this  rule,  the  Judges  shall  punish  the  horse  so  breaking, 
running  or  pacing,  by  placing  him  last  in  the  heat,  or  by 
distancing  him.  A  hiU-se  breaking  at  or  near  the  score  shall 
be  subject  to  the  same  penalty  as  if  he  broke  on  any  other 
part  of  the  track. 

Rule  31.     Relative  to  Heats  and  Horses  Eligible  to  Start. 


146  THE    HORSE    OWNEr's 

In  heats,  one,  two,  three  or  four  miles,  a  horse  not  winning 
one  heat  in  three,  shall  not  start  for  a  fourth,  unless  such 
horse  shall  have  made  a  dead  heat.  In  heats  best  three  in 
five,  a  horse  not  winning  a  heat  in  five  shall  not  start  for  a 
sixth,  unless  said  horse  shall  have  made  a  dead  heat.  But 
where  ten  or  more  horses  start  in  a  race,  every  horse  not 
distanced  shall  have  the  right  to  compete  until  the  race  is 
completed  ;  subject,  however,  to  all  other  penalties  in  these 
rules. 

Rule  32.  Dead  Heats.  A  dead  heat  shall  be  counted  in 
the  race,  and  shall  be  considered  a  heat  which  is  won  by  the 
horses  making  it,  but  undecided  between  them,  and  it  shall 
be  considered  a  heat  that  is  lost  by  all  the  other  horses  con- 
tending therein;  and  the  time  made  in  a  dead  heat  shall 
constitute  a  record  for  each  horse  making  such  dead  heat; 
and  only  those  horses  shall  start  for  the  next  heat  that  would 
have  been  entitled  had  the  heat  been  won  by  either  horse 
making  the  dead  heat.  A  horse  prevented  from  starting  by 
this  rule  shall  not  be  distanced,  but  ruled  out. 

Rule  33.  Time  Between  Heats.  The  time  between  heats 
shall  be  twenty  minutes  for  mile  heats;  and  for  mile  heats, 
best  3  in  5,  twenty- five  minutes;  and  for  two  mile  heats, 
thirty  minutes;  for  three  mile  heats,  thirty-five  minutes; 
and  should  there  be  a  race  of  four  mile  heats,  the  time  shall 
be  forty  minutes. 

After  the  first  heat  the  horses  shall  be  called  five  minutes 
prior  to  the  time  of  starting. 

Rule  34.  Time  Allofned  in  Case  of  Accidents.  In  case  of 
accidents,  ten  minutes  shall  be  allowed,  but  the  Judges  may 
allow  more  time  when  deemed  necessary  and  proper. 

Rule  35.  Fra.uduJent  Collision  and  Break  Down.  In  case 
of  collision  and  breakdown,  the  part}^  causing  the  same, 
whether  wilfully  or  otherwise,  shall  be  distanced;  and  if  the 
Judges  find  it  was  occasioned  designedly,  and  to  aid  fraud, 
the  driver  in  fault  shall  be  forthwith  suspended  or  expelled, 
and  his  horse  shall  be  distanced  ;  but  if  necessary  to  defeat 
fraud,  the  Judges  may  direct  the  offending  horse  to  start 
again. 


ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE.  147 

No  horse  but  tlie  offondino:  one  shall  be  distanced  in  sneh 
a  Iieat,  except  for  foul  driviiiir.  The  Jndi^es  in  a  eonclndini^ 
heat,  finding  that  a  collision  involved  a  fraudulent  object, 
may  declare  that  heat  void.     [See,  also,  Rule  48.] 

Rule  36.  rUt:iny  ilorscs.  A  horse  must  win  a  majority 
of  the  heals  which  are  required  by  the  conditions  of  the  race 
to  be  entitled  to  the  purse  or  stakes,  unless  such  horse  shall 
have  distanced  all  competitors  in  one  heat:  but  whenever  a 
horse  shall  have  distanced  all  competitors  in  one  heat,  the 
race  is  concluded,  and  the  winner  shall  receive  the  entire 
purse  and  stakes. 

WIkmi  more  than  one  horse  remains  in  the  race,  entitled  to 
be  placed  at  the  finish  of  the  last  heat,  the  second  best  horse 
shall  receive  the  secontl  premium,  if  there  be  any;  and  if 
tliere  be  any  third  or  fourth  premium,  &c.,  for  which  no  horse 
has  won  and  maintained  a  specific  place,  the  same  shall  go 
to  the  winner. 

The  foregoing  provisions  shall  always  apply,  in  such  cases, 
unless  otherwise  stated  in  the  published  conditions  of  the  race. 

In  deciding  the  rank  of  horses  other  than  the  winner,  as  to 
second,  third  and  fourth  places,  &c.,  to  be  assigned  among 
such  as  remain  in  the  race,  entitled  to  be  placed  at  the  con- 
clusion of  the  last  heat  thereof,  the  several  positions  which 
have  been  assigned  to  each  horse  so  contending  shall  be 
considered  as  to  every  heat  in  the  race — that  is,  horses  hav- 
ing won  two  heats  better  than  those  winning  one;  a  horse 
that  has  won  a  heat  better  than  a  horse  only  making  a  dead 
heat;  a  horse  winning  one  or  two  heats  and  making  a  dead 
heat  better  than  one  winning  an  equal  number  of  heats,  but 
not  makins:  a  dead  heat;  a  horse  winning  a  heat  or  making 
a  dead  heat,  and  not  distanced  in  the  race,  better  than  a 
horse  that  has  not  won  a  heat  or  made  a  dead  heat;  a  horse 
that  has  bi^en  placed  "  second"  twice,  better  than  a  horse 
that  has  been  placed  "  second"  only  once,  etc. 

When  two  or  more  horses  shall  be  equal  in  the  race  at  the 
commencement  of  a  final  heat  thereof,  they  shall  rank  as  to 
each  other  as  they  are  placed  in  the  decision  of  such  final 
heat. 


148  THE    HORSE    OWNER's 

In  case  these  provisions  shall  not  give  a  specific  decision 
as  to  second  and  third  money,  etc.,  the  Judges  of  the  race 
are  to  make  the  awards  according  to  their  best  judgment, 
but  in  conformity  with  the  principles  of  this  rule. 

Rule  37.  Distances.  In  races  of  mile  heats  80  j^ards 
shall  be  a  distance.  In  races  of  two  mile  heats  150  yards 
shall  be  a  distance.  In  races  of  three  mile  heats  2:20  yards 
shall  be  a  distance.  In  races  of  mile  lieats  best  3  in  5,  100 
yards  sliall  be  a  distance.  But  if  any  Association  or  Propri- 
etor shall  choose,  they  can  provide,  in  heats  of  not  over  one 
mile,  wherein  eight  or  more  horses  contend,  to  increase^ the 
distance  one  half,  in  which  case  such  change  shall  be  stated 
in  the  published  conditions  of  the  race,  before  entry. 

All  horses  whose  heads  have  not  reached  the  distance 
stand  as  soon  as  the  leading  horse  arrives  at  the  winning 
post,  shall  be  declared  distanced,  except  in  cases  otherwise 
provided  for,  or  the  punishment  of  the  leading  horse  by  set- 
ting him  back  for  running,  when  it  shall  be  left  to  the  dis- 
cretion of  the  Judges. 

A  distanced  horse  is  out  of  the  race,  and  if  in  any  heat  one 
horse  shall  distance  all  competitors,  the  race  will  then  be 
completed,  and  the  winner  shall  be  entitled  to  the  entire 
purse  and  stakes,  unless  otherwise  stipuhited  in  the  pub- 
lished conditions  of  the'race. 

Rule  38.  Rank  heticeen  Distanced  IIo)\ses.  Horses  dis_ 
tiinced  in  the  first  heat  of  a  race  shall  be  equal ;  but  horses 
that  are  distanced  in  any  subsequent  heat  shall  rank  as  to 
each  other  in  the  order  of  the  positions  to  which  they  were 
entitled  at  the  start  of  the  heat  in  which  they  are  dis- 
tanced. 

Rule  39.  Time  and  its  JRecord.  In  every  public  race  the 
time  of  each  heat  shall  be  accurately  taken  and  placed  in  the 
recod  •j'^and,  upon  the  decision  of  each  heat,  the  time  thereof 
shall  be  publicly  announced  by  the  Judges,  except  as  provid- 
ed in  these  rules  concerning  those  heats  which  are  "taken 
away  from  leading  horses. " 

It  shall  be  the  duty  of  the  Judges  of  the  race  to  take  the 


ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE. 


149 


time  as  aforesaid,  or  to  appoint  some  suitable  person  or  per- 
sons to  assist  them  in  that  respect;  and  no  nnoffieial  timing 
shall  be  recognized  or  admitted  to  the  record.  [See,  also, 
Rule  40.] 

Rule  40.  Two  Leading  Horses  to  be  Separately  Timed. 
The  two  leading  horses  shall  be  separately  timed,  and  if  the 
heat  is  aAvarded  to  either,  his  time  only  shall  be  announced 
and  be  a  record.  In  case  of  a  dead  heat,  the  time  shall  con- 
stitute a  record  for  the  horses  making  the  dead  heat;  and  if 
for  any  other  cause  the  heat  is  not  awarded  to  either  of  the 
leading  horses,  it  shall  be  awarded  to  the  next  best  horse, 
and  no  time  shall  be  given  out  by  the  Judges  or  recorded 
against  either  horse ;  and  the  Judges  may  waive  the  appli- 
cation of  the  rule  in  regard  to  distance  in  that  heat,  except 
for  foul  riding  or  driving. 

Rule  41.  Fraudulent  Suppression  of  Time.  In  any  pub- 
lic race,  if  there  shall  be  any  intentional  suppression  or  mis- 
representation in  either  the  record  or  the  announcement  of 
the  time  of  any  heat  in  the  race,  procured  through  any  col- 
lusive arrangement  between  the  Judges  or  Timers  and  the 
owner  or  the  winning  horse  or  his  driver  or  other  author- 
ized agent,  it  shall  be  fraudulent.  And  any  horse  winning 
a  heat  or  making  a  dead  heat  wherein  there  was  such  a 
fraudulent  suppression  of  time,  together  with  the  parties  im- 
plicated in  the  fraud,  shall  be  expelled. 

Rule  42.  A  Public  Race.  Any  contest  for  purse,  pre- 
mium, stake  or  wager,  on  any  course  and  in  the  presence  of 
a  Judge  or  Judges,  shall  constitute  a  public  race. 

Rule  43.  Wlien  Time  Becomes  a  Bar.  Time  made  in 
single  or  double  harness  at  fairs  and  on  any  track,  whether 
short  or  not,  shall  constitute  a  bar;  but  time  made  under  the 
saddle  shall  not  be  a  bar  in  harness  or  wagon  races. 

Rule  44.  Time  of  "  Trotting  Horse  with  a  Running  Mate,'''' 
no  Bar.  A  race  wherein  a  trotting  horse  goes  with  a 
running  mate,  shall  not  create  a  record  for  time  as  a  trotting 
perform  mce. 

Rule  45.      Complai?its  by  Riders   or    Drivers,    All  com- 


150 

plaints  by  ridors  or  drivers,  of  any  foul  riding  or  driving,  or 
other  misconduct,  must  be  made  at  the  termination  of  the 
heat,  and  before  the  rider  or  driver  dismounts  or  leaves  his 
vehicle  by  permission  of  the  Judges.. 

Rule  46.  Decorum,  If  any  owner,  trainer,  rider,  driver, 
or  attendant  of  a  horse,  or  any  other  person,  use  improper 
language  to  the  officers  of  the  course,  or  the  Judges  in  a  race, 
or  be  guilty  of  any  improper  conduct,  the  person  or  persons 
so  otfending  shall  be  p.unished  by  a  line  not  exceeding  $  100, 
or  by  suspension  or  expulsion.     [See,  also.  Rule  48.] 

Rule  47,  Loud  Shouting.  Any  rider  or  driver  guilty  of 
loud  shouting,  or  of  making  otlier  unnecessary  noise,  or  of 
making  improper  use  of  the  whip,  during  the  pendency  of  a 
heat,  shall  be  punished  by  a  tine  not  to  exceed  8  25,  or  by 
suspension  during  the  meeting. 

Rule  48.  Fouls.  If  any  act  or  thing  shall  be  done  by  any 
owner,  rider  or  driver,  or  their  iiorse  or  horses,  during  any 
race,  or  in  connection  therewith,  which  these  rules  define  or 
warrant  the  Judges  in  deciding  to  bs  foul ;  and  if  no  special 
provision  is  made  in  these  rules  to  meet  the  case,  the  Judges 
shall  have  power  to  panisli  the  offender  by  fine  not  to  exceed 
$  100,  or  by  suspension  or  expulsion.  And  in  any  case  of  foul 
riding  or  driving,  they  shall  distance  the  offending  horse,  un- 
less they  believe  such  a  decision  will  favor  a  fr;iud.  The 
term  "  foul "  shall  be  construed  to  apply  to  riding  or  driving 
contrary  to  rule,  or  to  any  act  of  a  fraudulent  nature,  and  to 
any  unprincipled  conduct,  such  as  tends  to  debase  the  char- 
acter of  the  trotting  turf  in  the  estimation  of  the  public. — 
(See,  also.  Rules  23,  29.  35,  46  and  47.] 

Rule  49.  Fines.  All  persons  who  shall  have  been  fined 
under  these  rules,  unless  they  pay  the  fines  imposed,  in  full, 
on  the  day  of  assessment,  shall  be  suspended  until  they  are 
so  paid  or  deposited  with  the  Treasurer  of  said  National  As- 
sociation. 

All  fines  which  shall  be  baid  to  the  association  or  proprie- 
tor, on  whose  grounds  they  were  imposed,  shall  by  them  be 
paid  to  the  Treasurer  of  the  Xiitional  Association  upon  de- 
mand. 


ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE.  151 

Rule  50.  No  Compromise  of  Penalties.  In  no  case  sliall 
there  be  any  eomi)roniise  in  the  manner  of  punishnKnit 
where  the  rules  expn^ss  or  provide  what  the  penalty  sliall 
be,  but  the  same  shall  be  strictly  enforced. 

Rule  51.  Suspensions  and  Expulsions.  Whenever  the 
words  suspended  or  suspension  occur  in  these  rules,  if  ap- 
plied to  a  horse,  they  shall  be  construed  to  mean  a  disquali- 
fication during  the  time  of  suspension,  to  enter  or  compete 
in  any  race  to  be  performed  on  the  course  of  the  association 
or  proprietor;  and  if  applied  to  a  person,  they  shall  be  con- 
strued to  mean  a  conditional  withholding  of  all  right  or  priv- 
ilege to  make  an  entry,  or  to  ride,  drive,  train  or  assist  on 
the  course  and  grounds  of  the  association  or  proprietor.  If 
no  limit  is  fixed  in  an  order  of  suspenion,  and  none  is  pre- 
scribed in  the  rule  applicable  to  the  case,  the  punishment 
shall  be  considered  as  limited  to  the  season  in  which  the 
order  was  issued. 

Wherever  the  words  expelhid  or  expulsion  occur  in  these 
rules,  they  shall  be  construed  to  mean  unconditional  expul- 
sion and  disqualification  from  any  participation  in  the  priv- 
ileges and  uses  of  the  course  iind  grounds  of  the  association 
or  proprietor.  And  no  penalty,  of  expulsion  shall  be  re- 
moved or  modified,  except  by  the  order  or  upon  the  approval 
of  the  Board  of  Appeals. 

Wlienever  the  penalty  of  suspension  or  expulsion  has  been 
imposed  on  any  horse  or  person  on  the  grounds  of  any  asso- 
ciation or  proprietor  holding  membership  in  said  National 
Association,  written  or  printed  notice  thereof  shall  imme- 
diately be  forwarded  to  the  Secretary  of  said  National  Asso- 
ciation, stating  the  oftence  and  th(^  character  of  punishment, 
who  shall  at  once  transmit  the  information  to  each  associ- 
ated course  or  member;  and  thereupon  the  offender  thus 
punished  shall  sufi'cu'  the  same  penalty  and  disqualification 
with  each  association  and  proprietor  holding  membership  in 
said  National  .\ssociation. 

Rule  52.  Right  of  Appeal.  Any  person  who  lias  been 
subjected  to  either  of  the  penalties  of  suspension,  expulsion, 
or  a  fine,  by  the  decision  of  the  Judges  of  a  race,  can  appeal 


152  THE    HORSE    OWXER's 

from  such  decision  to  the  association  or  proprietor,  upon 
whose  grounds  the  penalty  was  imposed,  and  from  their  de- 
cision can  appeal  to  the  Board  of  Appeals;  provided,  th'a.t 
where  the  penalty  was  a  fine,  it  shall  have  been  previously 
paid.  And  all  decisions  and  rulings  of  the  Judges  of  any  race, 
and  of  the  several  associations  and  proprietors  belonging  to 
said  National  Association,  may  be  appealed  to  the  Board  of 
Appeals,  and  shall  be  subject  to  review  by  said  board,  upon 
facts  and  questions  involving  the  proper  interpretation  and 
application  of  these  rules,  and  their  decisions  shall  be  final; 
provided  that  parties  to  be  affected  thereby,  shall  be  notified 
as  the  board  shall  direct,  of  a  time  and  a  place  when  such 
appeal  will  be  acted  on  by  the  Board. 

Provided  further,  if  the  appeal  relate  to  the  decision  of  a 
race,  immediate  notice  shall  have  been  given  to  the  Judges 
of  the  race  of  the  intention  so  to  appeal.  All  other  appeals 
mast  be  taken  within  one  week  from  the  announcement  of 
the  decisions  appealed.  Any  person  who  shall  appeal  from 
any  order  suspending  him  or  his  horse  for  non-payment  of 
entrance  money  or  a  fine,  may  deposit  the  amount  claimed 
with  the  Treasurer  of  said  National  Association,  who  may 
thereupon  issue  a  certificate  or  notice,  temporarily  re-instat- 
ing or  relieving  the- party  and  his  horse  from  such  penalty ; 
subject  to  the  final  action  of  the  Board  of  Appeals. 

Rule  53.  Ar/e  of  a  horse— Jiow  reckoned.  The  age  of  a 
horse  shall  be  reckoned  from  the  first  day  of  January  pre- 
ceding the  period  of  foaling. 

Rule  54.  CoH^  and  Fillies  equally  Eligible  to  Erder.  All 
colts  and  fillies  shall  be  eligible  alike  to  all  premiums  and 
stakes  for  animals  of  their  age,  unless  specially  excluded 
by  the  conditions  imposed. 

Rule  55.  A  Green  Horse.  A  green  horse  is  one  that  has 
never  trotted  O'  paced  for  premiums  or  money,  either  double 
or  single. 

Rule  56.  Races  made  a?id  '•  JSFo  Hoiir  Named.''''  All  races 
shall  be  started  at  3  o'clock,  p.  m.,  from  the  1st  day  of  April 
to  the  15th  day  of  September,  and  after  that  date  at  2  o'clock, 


ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE.  153 

P.  M.  until  the  season  closes,  unless  otherwise  provided. 

Rule  57.  Eacc  made  and  no  Distance  Specified.  When  a 
race  is  made  and  no  distance  specified,  it  shall  be  restricted 
to  the  following  distances,  viz.:  one  mile  and  repeat;  mile 
heats,  best  3  in  5;  2  miles  and  repeat,  or  3  miles  and  repeat, 
and  may  be  performed  in  harness,  to  wagon,  or  under  the 
saddle. 

Rule  58.  Race  made  to  ''go  as  they  please.''''  When  a  race 
is  made  to  go  as  they  please,  it  shall  be  construed  that  the 
performance  shall  be  in  harness,  to  wagon,  or  under  the 
saddle;  but  after  the  race  is  commenced  no  change  shall  be 
made  in  the  mode  of  going. 

Rule  59.  JRace  ■made''to  ''go  in^Earness.''''  When  a  race  is 
made  to  go  in  harness  it  shall  be  construedjto  mean  that  the 
performance  shall  be  to  a  sulky. 

Rule  60.  Matches  7nade  against  Time.  When  a  horse  is 
matched  against  time  it  shall  be  proper  to  allow  any  other 
horse  to  accompany  him  in  the  performance,  but  not  to  be 
harnessed  with  or  in  any  way  attached  to  him. 

In  matches  made  against  time,  the  parties  making  the 
match  shall  be  entitled  to  three  trials,  unless  expressly  stip- 
ulated to  the  contrary,  which  trials  shall  be  had  on  the  same 
day — the  time  between  trials  to  be  the  same  as  the  time  be- 
tween heats  in  similar  distances. 

Rule  61.  Horses  sold  with  Engagements.  The  seller  of  a 
horse  sold  with  his  engagements  has  not  the  power  of  strik- 
ing him  out.  In  case  of  private  sale,  the  written  acknowl- 
edgment of  the  parties  that  the  horse  was  sold  with  engage- 
ments is  necessary  to  entitle  the  buyer  to  the  benefit  of 
this. 

A  true  copy  from  the  record, 
At^.est — 

George  Smith, 

Secretary. 


154  THE   HORSE   OWNER's 


BETTING  RULES 


By  vote  of  the  National  Association,  at  the  Annual  Meeting 
held  at  Buffalo,  New  York,  on  the  first  Wednesday  of  Feb- 
ruary, 1871,  a  special  committee  was  appointed  to  revise 
the  Bp:tting  Rules,  and  said  committee  having  reported 
the  following  rules,  they  are  accordingly  adopted  to  control 
all  pools  and  bets  laid  upon  any  trotting  or  pacing  event 
which  shall  be  subject  to  the  government  of  the  rules  of 
said  National  Association. 

No.  1.  All  pools  and  bets  must  follow  the  main  stakes, 
purse  or  other  prize,  as  awarded  by  the  decision  of  the  Judg- 
es, except  in  cn.ses  where  the  horse  that  comes  in  first  is  found 
to  be  disqualified,  or  the  bets  are  declared  off  for  fraud  or 
collusion. 

No.  2.  If  a  race  is  postponed,  it  shall  not  affect  the  pools 
or  bets  that  may  have  been  made  on  it.  They  shall  stand  un- 
til the  race  comes  off,  unless  the  contrary  shall  be  agreed  on 
between  the  parties  betting ;  provided  the  race  taices  place 
within  five  days  of  the  time  first  named ;  after  which  time  all 
bets  and  pools  are  drawn,  unless  made  play  or  pay. 

No.  3.  When  any  change  is  made  in  the  conditions  of  a 
race,  all  pools  and  bets  made  previous  to  the  announcement 
of  the  change  shall  be  null  and  void. 

No.  4.  When  a  bet  is  made  on  one  horse  against  the  field, 
he  must  start  or  the  bet  is  off,  and  the  field  is  what  starts 
against  him ;  but  there  is  no  field,  unless  one  start  against 
him. 

No.  5.  In  pools  and  betting,  the  pool  stands  good  for  all 
the  horses  that  start  in  the  race ;  but  for  those  horses  that  do 
not  start,  the  money  must  be  returned  to  the  purchaser. 

No.  6.  In  races  made  })lay  or  pay,  outside  bets  are  not 
play  or  pay  unless  so  made  by  the  parties. 

No.  7.     All  bets  are  void  on  tlie  decease  of  either  party, 


ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE.  155 

but  in  case  n  horse  should  die,  play  or  pay  bets  made  on  him 
stand. 

No.  8,  If  a  bet  is  made  on  any  number  of  straight  heats, 
and  there  is  a  dead  heat  made,  the  heats  are  not  straight,  and 
the  party  betting  on  straight  heats  loses. 

No.  9.  If  in  any  case  the  Judges  declare  a  heat  null  and 
void,  it  does  not  aftect  the  bets  as  in  case  of  a  dead  heat  as  to 
winning  in  straight  lieats. 

No.  10,  When  a  race  is  coming  off,  and  a  party  bets  that 
a  heat  will  be  made  in  two  minutes  and  thirty  seconds,  (2,30), 
and  they  make  two  thirty  (2,30),  or  less,  he  would  win.  If 
he  bets  they  will  beat  two  minutes  and  thirty  seconds,  (2,30), 
and  they  make  exactly  two  thirty,  (2,30),  he  loses;  but  if  ho 
takes  two  minutes  and  thirty  seconds  (2,30)  against  the  field? 
and  tliey  make  exactly  two  thirty  (2,30),  it  is  a  tie,  or  drawn 
bet.     All  time-bets  to  be  decided  accordingly. 

No.  11.  In  a  double  event — where  there  is  no  action  on 
the  first  race  in  order,  in  consequence  of  forfeit  or  other 
cause,  the  bet  is  off;  but  where  there  is  an  action  on  the  bet, 
and  the  party  betting  on  the  double  event  sliall  have  won  the 
first,  the  bet  shall  then  stand  as  a  play  or  pay  bet  for  the 
second  event. 

No.  12.  If  a  bet  should  be  made  during  the  contest  of  a 
heat,  that  a  named  horse  will  win  that  heat,  and  he  makes  a 
dead  heat,  the  bet  is  drawn:  but  if  after  the  horses  have 
passed  the  score,  the  party  bets  that  a  certain  named  horse 
has  won  the  heat,  and  the  Judges  declare  it  a  dead  heat,  the 
backer  of  the  named  horse  loses. 

No.  13.  In  races  between  two  or  more  horses,  of  a  single 
dash  at  any  distance,  whieii  result  is  a  dead  heat,  it  is  a  draw 
between  the  horses  making  tiie  dead  heat,  and  bets  between 
them  are  off;  and  if  it  is  a  sweepstakes,  the  money  of  the 
beaten  horse  is  to  be  divided  between  the  horses  making  the 
dead  heat. 

No.  14.  When  a  better  undertakes  to  place  the  horses  in 
a  race,  he  mast  giv^e  a  specifiinl  place,  as  first,  second,  third, 
and  so  on.     The  word  "  laif'  ahall  not  be  construed  to  mean 


156  THE   HORSE   OWNER's 

"fourth  and  distanced,'"  if  four  start,  but  "fourth"  only  and  so 
on.     A  distanced  horse  must  be  placed  "  distanced." 

N"o.  15.  Horses  shall  be  placed  in  a  race,  and  bets  decided 
as  they  are  placed  in  the  official  record  of  the  day ;  provided 
that  Avhere  a  horse  comes  in  tirst,  and  it  is  afterwards  found 
that  he  was  disqualified  for  fraud,  the  bets  on  him  shall  be 
null  and  void,  but  pool  sellers  and  stake  holders  shall  not  be 
responsible  for  moneys  paid  by  them  under  the  decision  of 
the  judges  of  the  race.     [See  article  13  of  By-Laws.] 

No.  16.  Bets  made  during  a  heat  are  not  determined  until 
the  conclusion  of  the  race,  if  the  heat  is  not  mentioned  at 
the  time. 

No.  17.  Either  of  the  bettors  may  demand  stakes  to  be 
made,  and  on  refusal,  declare  the  bet  to  be  void. 

No.  18.  Outside  bets  cannot  be  declared  off  on  the  course 
unless  that  place  was  named  for  staking  the  money,  and  then 
it  must  be  done  by  filing  such  declaration  in  Avriting  with 
the  Judges,  who  shall  read  it  from  the  stand  before  the  race 
commences. 

No.  19.  Bets  agreed  to  be  paid  or  received,  or  bets  agreed 
to  be  made  or  put  up  elsewhere  than  at  the  place  of  the  race, 
or  any  other  specified  place,  cannot  be  declared  off  on  the 
Course. 

No.  20.  Bets  on  horses  disqualified  and  not  allowed  to 
start  are  void,  unless  the  bets  are  play  or  pay. 

No.  21.  A  bet  cannot  be  transferred  without  the  consent  of 
parties  to  it,^cept  in  pools. 

No.  22.  When  a  bet  is  made  on  a  horse's  time,  it  shall  be 
decided  by  the  time  made  in  a  public  race  ;  he  going  single 
and  carrying  his  proper  weight. 

No.  23.  When  a  horse  makes  time  on  a  short  track,  it  shall 
not  constitute  a  record  for  the  decision  of  bets. 

No.  24.  Horses  that  are  distanced  or  drawn  at  the  conclu- 
sion of  a  heat  are  beaten  in  the  race  by  those  that  start  after- 
ward. A  horse  that  is  distanced  in  a  heat  is  beaten  by  one 
drawn  at  the  termination  of  the  same  heat. 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  157 

No.  25.  When  a  man  laj's  odds,  and  intends  to  take  the 
field  against  a  single  horse,  he  must  say  so,  and  the  other  par- 
ty will  choose  his  horse.  When  a  man  undertakes  to  name 
the  Avinner,  whether  he  bets  odds  or  taks  odds,  he  must  name 
some  one  horse. 

No.  26.  All  bets  relate  to  the  purse,  stake  or  match,  if 
nothing  to  the  contrary  is  specified  at  the  time  of  making  the 
bet. 

No.  27.  Parties  wishing  all  the  horses  to  start  for  a  bet, 
must  so  name  it  at  the  time  the  bet  is  made. 

No.  28.  When  the  judges  declare  a  heat  null  and  void,  all 
bets  on  that  heat  shall  stand  for  decision  on  the  next  heat. 

No.  29.  All  pools  and  bets  shall  be  governed  and  decided 
by  these  rules,  unless  a  stipulation  to  the  contrary  shall  be 
agreed  upon  by  the  parties  betting. 

No.  30.  Should  any  contingencies  occur  not  provided  for 
by  these  rules,  the  Judges  of  the  day  shall  decide  them. 

No.  31.  When  a  horse  which  has  not  been  sold  in  the  pools 
wins  the  race,  the  best  horse  sold  in  the  pools  wins  the 
money. 

A  true  copy  from  the  record.  ' 
Attest — 

George  Smith, 

Secretary. 


168  THE  HORSE  OWNER's 


GENERAL  HINTS. 

Match  horses  with  reference  to  size  and  motion  partic- 
ularly ;  to  color  if  you  can,  and  have  other  requisites. 

Always  have  inside  lines  on  double  teams  quite  long, 
and  back-strap  short. 

Never  check  a  horse  if  you  wish  to  have  him  last  long, 
except  while  training. 

Feed  in  low  mangers;  ivater  and  oats  to  be  given ^rs^  ; 
hay  afterward. 

If  worked,  very  little  water  to  be  given  in  the  night. 

Stop  at  the  top  of  a  hill  and  let  your  horse  get  breath. 

The  shoe  should  fit  the  foot,  not  the  foot  the  shoe. 
Never  cut  the  bars  or  frogs. 

Wet  the  hay^  and  not  the  oats  for  a  coughing  horse. 

Never  let  a  horse  stand  long  facing  a  cold  wind. 

Feed  lightly  when  changing  feed. 

When  training  in  a  building,  have  carriages,  etc.,  re- 
moved. 

Always  approach  a  strange  horse  near  the  shoulder. 

Use  but  a  few  words  with  a  horse,  but  have  them  un- 
derstood. 

Be  earnest  and  prompt,  but  not  harsh. 

Teach  before  whipping,  and  when  whipping,  do  it  to 
frighten,  not  to  enrage. 

Never  jump  from  a  wagon  when  your  horse  is  running 
away.  More  lives  and  limbs  are  lost  in  that  way  than  by 
remaining  in  the  wagon. 


ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE.  159 

Exercise  sound  judgment  by  purchasing  a  horse  suited 
to  the  business  required  of  him.  Some  horses  are  good 
saddle-horses,  but  miofht  not  make  ixood  cart-horses. 

If  a  horse  cribs,  drive  a  few  three-ounce  tacks  through 
the  throat-latch  of  the  halter,  so  that  the  points  are  in- 
ward toward  the  neck,  when  the  throat-latch  is  buckled 
moderately  tight.  As  he  attempts  to  crib,  the  swell  of 
the  neck  causes  him  to  be  pricked,  which  admonishes  him 
to  quit. 

Trotters  go  in  all  forms  as  well  as  runners. 

Have  your  harness  fit  your  horse.  The  greatest  care 
should  be  observed  that  every  strap  should  be  in  the  right 
place,  and  every  billet  buckled  in  the  right  hole.  When 
on,  the  whole  suit  to  fit  like  a  glove,  without  confining  the 
animal  by  pressure  ;  the  bit  drawn  close  in  the  angles  of 
the  mouth ;  the  blinds  to  have  the  right  set ;  the  breast- 
collar  to  come  above  the  point  of  the  shoulder,  without 
encroaching  on  the  wind-pipe  ;  the  back  pad  where  the 
withers  and  swelling  of  the  ribs  make  it  sit  easily  ;  the 
breeching  on  a  level  with  the  stifle  ;  the  martingal  long. 


160  THE  HOKSE  OWNEE's 


TURF  CALENDAR. 


Flora  Temple,  the  fastest  trotting  horse  in  the  world, 
was  sired  by  One- Eyed  Hunter  ;  tlie  pedigree  of  her  dam 
is  not  known.  Flora  is  now  twenty  years  old,  (1865) ;  is 
owned  by  A.  Welch,  Esq.,  of  Chesnut  Hills,  Philadelphia ; 
her  best  time  was  made  at  Kalamazoo,  October  15th,  1859, 
a  fnll  mile  in  2  min.  19|  sec,  which  is  the  best  time  ever 
made  by  a  trotting  horse.  She  beat  George  M.  Patchen 
on  the  Union  Course  in  2:21 ;  she  beat  Ethan  Allen  and 
mate  in  2:201. 

George  M.  Patchen  trotted  under  the  saddle,  on  Union 
Course,  Nov.  21,  1859,  in  2:24. 

Brown  Dick  beat  Patchen  in  2-25;^. 

Ethan  Allen's  best  time,  single,  was  2:25|  ;  trotted  with 
a  running  mate,  Sept  5,  1861,  on  Fashion  Course,  in  2:19|, 

The  fastest  time  on  record  for  a  three  years  old,  was 
made  by  Cora,  in  2:37|. 

Gen.  Butler's  best  time  was  2:21.  Dexter  beat  him 
three  straight  heats,  on  the  Fashion  Course,  Sept.  7,  1865  : 
2:26^,  2:241,    2:22^ 

Toronto  Chief  beat  Vanderbilt  on  the  Fashion  Course, 
Sept.  9, 1865,  in  2:28,  2:27,  2:27|.  Vanderbilt  trotted  one 
heat  in  2:27|. 

The  fastest  running  time  on  record,  for  a  single  mile, 
was  made  at  Cincinnati  by  Legal  Tender  in  1  min.  44  sec. 
The   best  time  ever  made  in   England   is   1:39,  made  by 


ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE.  161 

Glidi'itor.  It  is  said  that  Bay  Middleton  ran  the  same 
mile  in  1:30,  but  there  is  no  record  of  such  time. 

Brown  Dick  made  the  best  time  for  three  mile  heats, 
in  5:28. 

Pocahontas  paced  a  full  mile  in  2:17^,  which  is  the  best 
time  on  record. 

The  greatest  performance  in  double  harness,  on  record, 
a  2:12  gait  to  road  wagon.  Lady  Palmer  and  Flatbush 
Mare,  driven  by  their  owner,'  Mr.  Bonner,  taken  out  of 
his  stable  untrained,  to  a  road  wagon,  in  public,  May  10th, 
1862,  one  mile  in  2:26;  May  13th,  two  miles  in  5.01^  ;  the 
second  quarter  of  the  second  mile  in  33  seconds  being  a 
2:12  gait  to  a  road  wagon. 

Since  the  writing  of  this  book,  Flora  Temple's  time  has 
been  beaten.  Dexter  in  his  great  match  against  time  on 
the  Fashion  Course,  Oct.  10,  1865,  trotted  a  mile  under 
saddle  in  the  unparalleled  time  of  2:18  1-5. 

Twenty  Miles  Within  the  Hour  —  Trustee,  Union 
Course  Oct.  20,  1848,  in  59:351  Lady  Fulton,  Centre- 
ville  Course,  July  12,  1855,  59-55.  Captain  Mc  Gowan, 
Riverside  Course,  Boston,  Oct.  81,  1865,  58:25.  Dexter 
beat  Flora  Temple's  best  time  in  harness,  July  80,  1867, 
at  Boston,  in  2:19.  Lady  Suffolk's  best  time  for  one  mile, 
harness,  2:26.     Laucet's  best  time  saddle,  2:25^. 

In  order  to  form  an  idea  of  Dexter's  superiority  over 
all  other  trotting  horses,  it  is  only  necessary  to  state  that 
during  Flora  Temple's  entire  career  on  the  turf,  she  trotted 
only  four  or  five  heats  in  less  than  2:22,  while  Dexter  has 
trotted  in  less  than  two  years,  twenty-seven  heats  in  2:22, 
or  quicker.  The  horse  that  has  ranked  next  to  Dexter 
on  the  turf  during  the  past  two  years  is  Lady  Thorn,  and 
she   has  never  made  even  one  heat  in  2:22,  while  Dexter 


162  THE   HORSE   OWNER's 

has  trotted  as  horsemen  say,  "away  down"  in  2:17^. 
Dexter  is  fifteen  hands,  one  inch  high,  and  was  nine  years 
old  in  the  spring  of  1867. 

In  color  he  has  a  rich  glossy  hrown,  blazed-faced,  with 
four  white  feet,  the  white  running  well  up  the  legs.  His 
head,  though  somewhat  large,  is  clean  and  bony;  lower 
jaw  well  open  at  the  base,  leaving  plenty  of  room  for  the 
windpipe  ;  ears  tapering  and  lively;  eyes  bright  and 
prominent;  head  well  set  on  a  rather  light  neck,  which  is 
well  fitted  to  fine  sloping  shoulders;  withers  high,  with 
great  depth  of  brisket,  and  a  good  barrel ;  back  slightly 
arched,  with  broad  loin  and  hips  and  drooping  rump; 
uncommonly  long  from  point  of  the  hip  to  hock  ;  short 
cannon  bone ;  mane  and  tail  sufficiently  full  to  develop  his 
Hambletonian  origin. 

Ethan  Allen  and  '*  running  mate,"  in  double  harness, 
on  Fashion  Course,  Friday,  June  21,  1867,  beat  Dexter  in 
harness  in  the  unprecedented  time  of  2:15,  2:16,  2:19. 
Dexter's  time,  as  taken  by  excellent  men,  wasreported  2:17, 
2:18,  2:21,  but  not  reliable  for  bets.  The  fastest  time  on 
record,  for  four  years'  old,  was  made  by  Bruno  in  2:30. 

Kentucky  Prince  trotted  ten  miles  in  28:8^. 


y' 


ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE.  163 


STABLE  MANAGEMENT. 


This  is  a  very  important  part  of  our  subject,  even  as  a  it 
regards  the  farmer,  although  there  are  comparatively  few 
glaring  errors  in  the  treatment  of  the  agricultural  horse; 
but  it  comes  more  especially  home  to  the  gentleman,  who 
is  too  often,  and  too  implicitly,  under  the  guidance  of  an 
idle,  ignorant  and  designing  groom.  We  will  arange  the 
most  important  points  of  general  management  under  the 
following  heads. 

AIR. 

The  breathing  of  pure  air  is  necessary  to  the  existence 
and  health  of  man  and  beast.  It  is  comparatively  lately 
that  this  has  been  admitted  even  in  the  management  of  our 
best  stables.  They  have  been  close,  hot,  and  foul,  instead 
of  airy,  cool  and  wholesome.  The  stable  should  be  as 
large  compared  with  the  number  of  horses  that  it  is  des- 
tined to  contain,  as  circumstances  will  allow.  A  stable 
for  six  horses  should  not  be  less  than  thirty  feet  in  length, 
and  thirty  feet  wide.  If  there  is  no  loft  above,  the  inside 
of  the  roof  should  always  be  plastered  in  order  to  prevent 
direct  currents  of  air  and  occasional  droppings  from  broken 
tiles.  The  heated  and  foul  air  should  escape,  and  cool, 
pure  air  be  admitted,  by  elevation  of  the  central  tiles, 
or  by  large  tubes  carried  through  the  roof,  with  caps  a 
little  above  them,  to  prevent  the  beating  in  of  the  rain, 
or  by  grating  placed  high  up  in  the  walls.  These  latter 
apertures  should  be  as  far  above  the  horses  as  they  caa 


164  THE   HORSE   OWNEr's 

conveniently  be  placed,  by  wliicli  means  all  injuvions 
draughts  will  be  prevented.  If  there  is  a  loft  above  the 
stable  the  ceiling  should  be  plastered,  in  order  to  pre- 
vent the  foul  air  from  penetrating  to  the  hay  above,  and 
injuring  both  its  taste  and  its  vvholesomeness ;  and  no  open- 
ing should  be  allowed  above  the  manger  through  which 
the  hay  may  be  thrown  into  them  ;  for  they  will  permit 
the  foul  air  to  ascend  to  the  provender,  and  also  in  the 
act  of  filling  the  mangers,  and  while  the  horse  is  eagerly 
gazing  upward  for  his  food  a  grass  seed  may  fall  into  the 
eye  and  produce  considerable  inflammation.  At  other 
times,  when  the  careless  groom  has  left  open  the  trap -door, 
a  cold  stream  of  air  beats  down  on  the  head  of  the  horse. 
The  stable  with  a  loft  over  it  should  never  be  less  than 
twelve  feet  high,  and  proper  ventilation  should  be  secured, 
either  by  tubes  carried  through  the  roof,  or  by  gratings 
close  to  the  ceiHng.  These  gratings,  or  openings  should 
be  enlarged  or  contracted  by  means  of  a  covering  or  shut- 
ting, 60  that  spring,  summer  and  autumn  the  stable  may 
possess  nearly  the  same  temperature  with  the  open  air,  and 
in  winter  a  temperature  of  not  more  than  ten  degrees  above 
that  of  the  external  atmosphere.  A  hot  stable  has,  in  the 
mind  of  the  groom,  been  connected  with  a  glossy  coat.  The 
latter,  it  is  thought,  cannot  be  obtained  without  the  for- 
mer. To  this  we  reply,  that  in  winter  a  thin  glossy  coat  is 
not  very  desirable.  Nature  gives  to  every  animal  a  warmer 
clothing  when  the  cold  weather  approaches.  The  horse,  the 
agricultural  horse  especially,  acquires  a  thicker  and  length- 
ened coat,  in  order  to  defend  him  from  the  surrounding 
cold.  '  Man  puts  on  an  additional  aud  a  warmer  covering, 
and  his  comfort  is  increased  and  his  health  improved  by 
it.     He    who  knows  anything  of  the    farmer's    horse,    or 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  165 

cares  about  his  enjoyment,  will  not  object  to  a  coat  a 
little  longer,  and  a  little  roughened  when  the  wintry  wind 
blows  bleak.  The  coat,  however,  not  to  be  so  long  as  to  be 
unsightly,  and  warm  clothing  even  in  a  cool  stable,  will 
with  plenty  of  honest  grooming,  keep  the  hair  sufficiently 
smooth  and  glossy  to  satisfy  the  most  fastidious. 

The  over-heated  air  of  a  close  stable  saves  much  of  this 
grooming,  and  therefore  the  idle  attendant  unscrupu- 
lously sacrifices  the  health  and  safety  of  the  horse.  When 
we  have  presently  to  treat  of  the  hair  and  skin  of  the 
horse,  this  will  be  placed  in  a  somewhat  different  point  of 
view.  If  the  stable  is  close,  the  air  will  not  only  be  hot, 
but  foul.  The  breathing  of  every  animal  contaminates  ; 
and  when  in,  the  course  of  the  night,  with  every  aperture 
stopped,  it  passes  again  and  again  through  the  lungs,  the 
blood  cannot  undergo  its  proper  and  healthy  change ;  di- 
gestion will  not  be  so  perfectly  performed,  and  all  the  func- 
tions of  life  are  injured.  Let  the  owner  of  a  valuable 
horse  think  of  his  passing  twenty  or  twenty-two  out  of 
twenty-four  hours  in  this  debilitating  atmosphere.  Na- 
ture does  wonders  in  enabling  every  animal  to  accommo- 
date itself  to  the  situation  in  which  it  is  placed,  and  the 
horse  that  lives  in  the  stable,  even  suffers  less  from  it  than 
would  scarcely  be  conceived  possible ;  but  he  does  not 
and  cannot  possess  the  power  and  hardihood  which  he 
would  acquire  under  other  circumstances.  This  air  of 
the  improperly  close  and  heated  stable  is  still  further  con- 
taminated by  the  urine  and  dung,  which  rapidly  ferment 
there,  and  give  out  stimulating  and  unwholesome  vapors. 
When  a  person  first  enters  an  ill-managed  stable,  and  es- 
pecially early  in  the  morning,  he  is  annoyed  not  only  by 
the  heat  of  the  confined  air,  but  by  a  pungent  smell,  re- 


166  THE   HORSE   OWMEr's 

sembling  hartshorn :  and  can  he  be  surprised  at  the  in- 
flammation of  the  eyes,  and  the  chronic  cough,  and  the 
disease  of  the  kings,  by  which  the  animal  who  has  been 
all  night  shut  up  in  this  wretched  atmosphere,  is  often  at- 
tacked;  or  if  the.  glanders  and  farcy  should  occasionally 
break  out  in  such  stables  ?  It  has  been  ascertained  by 
chemical  experiment  that  the  urine  of  the  horse  contains 
in  it  an  exceedingly"  large  quantity  of  hartshorn ;  and  not 
only  so,  but  that,  influenced  by  the  heat  of  a  crowded  sta- 
ble, and  possibly  by  other  decompositions  that  are  going 
forward  at  the  same  time,  this  ammoniacal  vapor  begins 
to  be  rapidly  given  out,  almost  immediately  after  the 
urine  is  voided.  When  disease  begins  to  appear  among 
the  inhabitants  of  these  ill-ventilated  places,  is  it  wonder- 
ful that  it  should  rapidly  spread  among  them,  and  that 
the  plague-sj)ot  should  be,  as  it  were,  placed  on  the  door 
of  such  a  stable  ?  When  distemper  appears  in  spring  or 
autumn,  it  is  in  very  many  cases  to  be  traced  to  such  a 
pest-house.  It  is  peculiarly  fatal  there.  The  horses  be- 
longing to  a  small  establishment,  rationally  treated,  have 
it  comparatively  seldom,  or  have  it  lightly  ;  but  among 
the  inmates  of  a  crowded  stable  it  is  sure  to  display  itself, 
and  there  it  is  most  fatal.  The  experience  of  every  vet- 
erinary surgeon,  and  of  every  large  proprietor  of  horses, 
will  corroborate  this  statement.  Every  stable  should 
possess  within  itself  a  certain  degree  of  ventilation.  The 
cost  of  this  would  be  trifling,  and  its  saving  in  the  preser- 
vation of  valuable  animals  may  be  immense.  The  aper- 
tures need  not  be  large,  and  the  whole  may  be  so  contrived 
that  no  direct  current  of  air  ahall  fall  on  the  horse.  A 
gentleman's  stable  should  never  be  without  a  thermome- 
ter.    The   temperature  should  seldom  exceed  70  degrees 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  167 

in  the  summer,   or  sink  below   40  or  50   degrees  in  the 
winter. 

LITTER. 

Having  spoken  of  the  vapor  of  hartshorn,  which  is  so 
rapidly  and  so  plentifully  given  out  from  the  urine  of  the 
horse  in  a  heated  stable,  we  next  take  into  consideration 
the  subject  of  litter.  The  first  caution  is  frequently  to 
remove  it.  The  early  extraction  of  gas  shows  the  rapid 
putrefaction  of  the  U7-ine,  the  consequence  of  which 
will  be  rapid  putrefaction  of  the  litter  that  has  been  mois- 
tened by  it.  Everything  hastening  to  decomposition 
should  be  carefully  removed  where  life  and  health  are  to 
be  preserved.  The  litter  that  has  been  much  wetted  or 
at  all  softened  by  the  urine,  and  is  beginning  to  decay, 
should  be  swept  away  every  morning ;  the  greater  part 
of  the  remainder  may  then  be  piled  under  the  manger, 
a  little  being  left  to  prevent  the  painful  and  injurious 
pressure  of  the  feet  on  the  hard  floor  during  the  day. 
The  soiled  and  soaked  portion  of  that  which  was  left 
should  be  removed  at  aight.  In  the  better  kind  of  sta- 
bles, however,  the  stalls  should  be  completely  emptied 
every  morning.  No  heap  of  fermenting  dung  should  be 
suffered  to  remain  during  the  day,  in  the  corner,  or- in 
any  part  of  the  stable.  With  regard  to  this  the  direc- 
tions of  the  master  should  be  peremptory.  The  stable 
should  be  so  contrived  that  the  urine  shall  quickly  run 
off  and  the  offensive  and  injurious  vapor  from  the  decom- 
posing fluid  and  the  litter  will  thus  be  materially  lessened  ; 
but  if  this  is  eff"ected  by  means  of  gutters  and  a  descending 
floor,  the  descent  must  be  barely  sufficient  to  cause  the 
fluid  to  escape;  as,  if  the  toes  are  kept  higher  than  the 
heels  it  will  lead  to  lameness,  and  is  also  a  frequent  cause 


168  THE    HORSE    OWNEr's 

of  contraction  of  the  foot.  Stalls  of  this  kind  certainly  do 
best  for  mares;  but  for  horses  we  much  prefer  those  with 
a  grating  in  the  center,  and  a  slight  inclination  of  the 
floor  on  every  side,  towards  the  middle,  and  a  short 
branch  may  communicate  with  a  larger  drain,  by  means 
of  which  the  urine  may  be  carried  off  to  a  reservoir  out- 
side the  stable.  Traps  are  now  contrived,  and  may  be 
procured  at  a  little  expense,  by  means  of  which  neither 
any  offensive  smell  nor  current  of  air  can  pass  through 
the  grating.  Humanity  and  interest,  as  well  as  the  ap- 
pearance of  the  stable,  should  induce  the  proprietor  of 
the  horse  to  place  a  moderate  quantity  of  litter  under 
him  during  the  day. 

LIGHT. 
This  neglected  branch  of  stable  management  is  of  far 
more  consequence  than  is  generally  imagined  ;  and  it  is 
particularly  neglected  by  those  for  whom  these  treatises 
are  principally  designed.  The  farmer's  stable  is  frequent- 
ly destitute  of  any  glazed  window,  and  has  only  a  shutter, 
which  is  raised  in  warm  weather  and  closed  when  the  weath- 
er becomes  cold.  When  the  horse  is  in  the  stable  on- 
ly during  a  few  hours  in  the  day,  this  is  not  of  so  much 
consequence,  with  regard  to  horses  of  slow  work :  but  to 
carriage  horses  and  hackne3''s,  so  far  at  least,  as  the  eyes 
are  concerned,  a  dark  stable  is  little  less  injurious  than  a 
foul  and  heated  one.  In  order  to  illustrate  this  refer- 
ence may  be  made  to  the  unpleasant  feeling,  and  the  ut- 
ter impossibility  of  seeing  distinctly,  when  a  man  suddenly 
emerges  from  a  dark  place  into  the  full  blaze  of  day.  The 
sensation  of  mingled  pain  and  giddiness  is  not  soon  forgot- 
ten ;  and  some  minutes  pass  before  the  eye  can  accommo- 
date itself  to  the  increased  light.     If  this  were  to  happen 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  169 

every  day,  or  several  times  in  the  day,  the  sight  would  be 
irreparably  injured,  or  possibly  blindness  would  ensue. 
Can  we  wonder,  then,  that  the  horse,  taken  from  a  dark 
stable  into  a  olovv  of  light,  feeling,  probably,  as  we  should 
feel  under  similar  circumstances,  and  unable  for  a  consid- 
erable time  to  see  anything  around  him  distinctly,  should 
become  a  starter,  or  that  the  frequently  repeated  violent 
effect  of  sudden  light  should  induce  inflammation  of  the 
eye  so  intense  as  to  terminate  in  blindness?  There  is 
indeed,  no  doubt  that  horses  kept  in  dark  stables  are, 
frequently  notorious  starters,  and  that  abominable  habit 
has  been  traced  to  this  cause.  If  plenty  of  light  is  admitted, 
the  walls  of  the  stable,  and  especially  that  portion  of  them 
which  is  before  the  horse's  head,  must  not  be  of  too  tflarino* 
a  color.  The  color  of  the  stable  should  depend  on  the 
quantity  of  light.  Where  much  can  be  admitted,  the  walls 
should  be  of  a  gray  hue  ;  when  darkness  would  otherwise 
prevail,  frequent  whitewashing  may  in  some  degree  dissi- 
pate the  gloom.  For  another  reason,  it  will  be  evident 
that  the  stable  should  not  possess  too  glaring  a  light ;  it  is 
the  resting  place  of  the  horse.  The  work  of  the  farmer's 
horse,  indeed,  is  confined  principally  to  the  day.  The  hour 
of  exertion  having  passed,  the  animal  returns  to  his  stable 
to  feed,  and  to  repose,  and  the  latter  is  as  necessary  as  the 
former,  in  order  to  prepare  him  for  renewed  work.  Some- 
thing approaching  to  the  dimness  of  twilight  is  requisite 
to  induce  the  animal  to  compose  himself  to  sleep.  This 
half-light  more  particularly  suits  horses  of  heavy  work. 
In  the  quietness  of  a  dimly  lighted  stable,  they  obtain 
repose,  and  accumulate  flesh  and  fat. 
GKOOMING. 
Of   this,    much    need  not   be  said  to  the  agriculturist, 


170  THE   HORSE   OWXER's 

since  custom,  and  apparently  without  ill  effect,  has  allot- 
ted so  little  of  the  comb  and  brush  to  the  farmer's  horse. 
The  animal  that  is  worked  all  day,  and  turned  out  at  night, 
requires  little  more  to  be  done  to  him  than  to  have  the 
dirt  brushed  off  his  limbs.  Regular  grooming,  by  render- 
ing his  skin  more  sensitive  to  the  attraction  of  tempera- 
ture, and  the  inclemency  of  the  weather,  would  be  preju- 
dicial. The  horse  that  is  altogether  turned  out  needs  no 
grooming.  The  dandruff,  or  scurf,  which  accumulates  at 
the  roots  of  the  hair,  is  a  provision  of  nature  to  defend 
him  from  the  wind  and  cold.  It  is  to  the  stabled  horse, 
highly  fed  and  little  or  irregularly  worked,  that  groom- 
ing is  of  so  much  consequence.  Good  rubbing  with  the 
brash  and  currycomb,  opens  the  pores  of  the  skin,  circulates 
the  blood  to  the  extremities  of  the  body,  produces  free 
and  healthy  perspiration  and  stands  in  the  room  of  exer- 
cise. No  horse  will  carry  a  fine  coat  without  either  un- 
natural heat  or  dressing.  They  both  effect  the  same  pur- 
pose ;  they  both  increase  the  insensible  perspiration;  but 
the  first  does  it  at  the  expense  of  health  and  strength, 
while  the  second,  at  the  same  time  that  it  produces  a  glow 
on  the  skin,  and  a  determination  of  blood  to  it  rouses  all 
the  energies  of  the  frame.  It  would  be  well  for  the  pro- 
prietor of  the  horse  if  he  were  to  insist  and  see  that  his 
orders  are  really  obeyed,  that  the  fine  coat  in  which  he 
and  his  groom  so  much  delight  is  produced  by  hand  rub- 
bing and  not  by  a  heated  stable  and  thick  clothing,  and 
most  of  all,  not  by  stimulating  or  injurious  spices.  The 
horse  should  be  regularly  dressed  every  day,  in  addition" 
to  the  grooming  that  is  necessary  after  work. 

When  the   weather  will   permit  the  horse  to  be  taken 
out,  he  should  never  be  groomed  in  the  stable,  unless  he 


ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE.  171 

is  an  animal  of  peculiar  value,  or  placed  for  a  time  under 
pecnliar  circumstances.  Without  dwelling  on  the  want 
of  cleanliness,  when  the  scurf  and  dust  which  are  brushed  from 
the  horse,  lodge  in  his  man2:er,  and  mingle  with  his  food, 
experience  teaches,  that  if  the  cold  is  not  too  great,  the 
animal  is  braced  and  invigorated  to  a  degree  that  cannot 
be  attained  in  the  stable  by  being  dressed  in  the  open 
air.  There  is  no  necessity,  however,  for  half  the  punish- 
ment which  many  a  groom  inflicts  upon  the  horse  in  the 
act  of  dressing  ;  and  particularly  on  one  whose  skin  is  thin 
and  sensitive.  The  curry-comb  should  at  all  times  be 
lightly  applied.  With  many  horses  its  use  may  be  al- 
most dispensed  with;  and  even  the  brush  need  not  be  used 
very  hard,  nor  the  points  of  the  bristles  so  irregular,  as 
thev  often  are.  A  soft  brush,  with  a  little  more  weio;ht 
of  the  hand,  will  be  equally  effectual,  and  a  good  deal 
more  pleasant  to  the  horse.  A  hair  cloth,  while  it  will 
seldom  irritate  and  tease,  will  be  almost  sufficient 
with  horses  that  have  a  thin  skin,  and  that  have 
not  been  neglected.  After  all,  it  is  no  slight  task  to  dress 
a  horse  as  it  ought  to  be  done.  It  occupies  no  little  time 
and  demands  considerable  patience,  as  well  as  dexterity. 
It  will  be  readily  ascertained  whether  a  horse  has  been 
well  dressed  by  rubbing  him  with  one  of  the  fingers.  A 
greasy  stain  will  detect  the  idleness  of  the  groom.  Where, 
however,  the  horse  is  changing  his  coat,  both  the  curry- 
comb and  brush  should  be  used  as  lightly  as  possible. 
Whoever  would  be  convinced  of  the  benefit  of  friction  to 
the  horse's  skin  and  to  the  horse  generally,  needs  only  to 
observe  the  effects  produced  by  well  rubbing  the  legs  of  a 
tired  horse.  While  every  enlargement  subsides,  and  the 
painful  stillness  disappears,  and  the  legs  attain  their  uat- 


172  THE   HORSE   OWNER's 

ural  warmth,  and  become  fine,  the  animal  is  evidently 
and  rapidly  reviving;  he  attacks  his  food  with  appetite, 
and  then  quietly  lies  down  to  rest. 
EXERCISE. 
Our  observations  on  this  important  branch  of  stable 
management  must  have  only  a  slight  reference  to  the  ag- 
ricultural horse.  His  work  is  usually  regular  and  not 
exhausting.  He  is  neither  predisposed  to  disease  by  idle- 
ness, nor  worn  out  by  excessive  exertion.  He,  like  his 
master,  has  enough  to  do  to  keep  him  in  health  and  not 
enough  to  distress  nor  injure  him;  on  the  contrary,  the  reg- 
ularity of  his  work  prolongs  life  to  an  extent  rarely  wit- 
nessed in  the  stable  of  the  gentleman.  Our  remarks  on 
exercise,  then,  must  have  a  general  bearing  or  have  prin- 
cipal reference  to  those  persons  who  are  in  middle  sta- 
tions of  life,  and  who  contrive  to  keep  a  horse  for  busi- 
ness or  pleasure,  but  cannot  afford  to  maintain  a  servant 
far  the  express  purpose  of  looking  after  it.  The  first 
rule  that  I  would  lay  down  is  tliat  every  horse  should 
have  daily  exercise.  The  animal  that,  with  the  usual 
stable  feeding,  stands  idle  for  three  or  four  days,  as  is  the 
case  in  many  establishments,  must  suffer.  He  is  predis- 
posed to  fever,  or  to  grease,  or,  worst  of  all,  diseases  of 
the  feet ;  and  if,  after  three  or  four  days  of  inactivity,  he 
is  ridden  far  and  fast,  he  is  almost  sure  to  have  inflamma- 
tion of  the  lungs,  or  of  the  feet.  A  gentleman's  or  trades- 
man's horse  suffers  a  great  deal  more  from  idleness  thau 
he  does  from  work.  A  stable-fed  horse  should  have  two 
hours  exercise  every  day,  if  he  is  to  be  kept  free  from 
disease.  Nothing  of  extraordinary,  or  even  of  ordinary 
labor,  can  be  effected  on  the  road  or  in  the  field  without 
sufficient   and   regular   exercise.     It  is  this   alone  which 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  173 

can  give  energy  to  the  system,  or  develop  the  power  of 
any  animal.  In  training  the  trotter  and  the  running  horse, 
regular  exercise  is  the  most  important  of  all  considera- 
tions, however  it  may  be  forgotten  in  the  usual  manage- 
ment of  the  stable.  The  exercised  horse  will  discharge 
his  task  (and  sometimes  a  severe  one)  with  ease  and  pleas- 
ure, while  the  idle  and  neglected  one  will  be  fatigued  ere 
half  his  labor  is  accomplished,  and  if  he  is  pushed  a  little 
too  far,  dangerous  inflammation  will  ensue.  How  often, 
nevertheless,  does  it  happen,  that  the  horse  which  haa 
stood  inactive,  in  the  stable  three  or  four  days,  is  ridden 
or  driven  thirty  or  forty  miles  in  the  course  of  a  single 
day  !  This  rest  is  often  purposely  given  to  prepare  for  extra 
exertion  ;  to  lay  in  a  stock  of  strength  for  the  performance 
of  the  task  "required  of  him,  and  then  the  owner  is  sur- 
prised and  dissatisfied  if  the  animal  becomes  stiffened  or 
seriously  ill.  Nothing  is  so  common  and  so  preposter- 
ous, as  for  a  person  to  buy  a  horse  from  a  dealer's  stable, 
where  he  has  been  idly  fattened  for  sale  for  many  a  day, 
and  immediately  to  give  him  a  long  drive,  and  then  to 
complain  bitterly  and  think  he  has  been  imposed  upon  if 
the  animal  is  exhausted  before  he  arrives  at  his  destina- 
tion, and  is  compelled  to  be  led  home,  suffering  from  vio- 
lent inflammation.  Regular  and  gradually  increasing  ex- 
ercise would  have  made  the  same  horse  appear  a  treasure 
to  his  owner.  Exercise  should  be  somewhat  proportioned 
to  the  age  of  the  horse.  A  young  horse  requires  more 
than  an  old  one.  Nature  has  given  to  young  animals  of 
every  kind  a  disposition  to  activity,  but  the  exercise  must 
not  be  violent.  A  great  deal  depends  upon  the  manner 
in  wliicli  it  is  given.  To  preserve  the  temper  and  pro- 
mote health,  it  should  be  moderate,  at  least  at  the  begin- 


174  THE   HORSE   OWNER's 

ning  and  the  termination.  The  rapid  trot  or  even  the 
gallop  may  be  resorted  to  in  the  middle  of  the  exercise, 
but  the  horse  should  be  brought  in  cool.  There  are  many 
other  points  in  stable  management  we  would  like  to  men- 
tion, but  the  size  of  our  little  volume  will  not  admit  of  it. 

CLOSING  REMARKS. 

Now  dear  reader,  a  word  with  you,  and  we  are  done. 
We  have  endeavored,  in  writing  the  system,  to  fully  explain 
it,  so  that  none  need  go  astray  ;  but  it  must  be  remembered, 
in  handling  wild  and  vicious  horses,  you  have  different  dis- 
positions to  contend  with.  Every  one  who  understands 
the  true  philosophy  of  horsemanship,  knows  tliat  when 
we  have  a  horse  that  is  high  mettled,  wild,  and  lively,  we 
can  train  him  to  our  will  in  a  very  short  time,  for  such 
are  generally  quick  to  learn,  and  always  ready  to  obey 
But  there  is  au other  kind  which  are  of  a  stabborn  or  vi 
cious  disposition,  and  although  they  are  not  wild,  requir 
ing  no  taming  in  the  sense  that  is  generally  understood 
they  are  just  as  ignorant  as  a  wild  horse,  if  not  more  so 
and  need  to  be  educated  just  as  much.  And  in  order  xo 
have  them  obey  quickly,  it  is  necessary  that  they  should 
be  made  to  fear  their  masters;  for  in  order  to  obtain  per- 
fect obedience  from  any  horse  we  must  first  have  him  fear  us; 
for  our  motto  is,  "  Fear,  love,  and  obey,"  and  we  must  have 
the  fulfilhnent  of  the  first  two,  before  we  can  expect  the 
letter  :  and  it  is  by  our  philosophy  of  creating  fear,  love,  and 
confidence,  that  we  govern  to  our  will  any  kind  of  a  horse 
whatever.  Then  in  order  to  take  horses  as  we  find  them, 
or  more  particularly  if  they  are  of  a  stubborn  or  mulish 
disposition — if  he  lays  back  his  ears  as  you  approach  him, 
or  turns  his  heels  to  kick  you — he  has  not  the  regard  or  fear 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  175 

of  man  that  he  shouki  have  to  enable  you  to  handle  him 
quickly  and  easily.  In  such  cases  give  him  a  few  sharp 
cuts  with  the  whip  about  the  legvS,  pretty  close  to  the 
body.  It  will  crack  keen  as  it  plies  around  his  legs,  and 
the  crack  of  the  whip  will  affect  him  as  much  as  the  stroke. 
Beside,  one  sharp  cut  about  the  legs  will  affect  him  more 
than  two  or  three  over  the  back,  the  skin  on  the  inner 
part  of  the  legs,  or  about  the  flank,  being  thinner  and 
more  tender  than  on  his  back.  But  we  do  not  whip  him 
much — ^just  enough  to  scare  him.  It  is  not  because  we  wish 
to  hurt  the  horse  that  we  whip  him,  we  only  do  it  to  scare 
the  bad  disposition  out  of  him.  But  whatever  you  do 
do  quickly,  sharply  and  with  a  good  deal  of  force,  but 
always  without  anger.  If  you  are  going  to  scare  him  at 
all,  you  must  do  it  at  once;  never  go  into  a  pitched  bat- 
tle with  your  horse,  and  whip  him  until  he. is  mad,  and 
will  fight  you.  You  had  better  not  touch  him  at  all ;  for 
you  will  establish,  instead  of  fear  and  regard,  a  feeling  of 
resentment,  hatred  and  ill-will.  It  will  do  him  no  good, 
but  an  injury,  to  strike  a  blow,  unless  you  can  scare  him; 
but  if  you  succeed  in  scaring  him  you  can  whip  him  with- 
out making  him  mad,  for  fear  and  anger  never  exist  to- 
gether in  the  horse ;  and  as  soon  as  one  is  visible  you 
will  find  that  the  other  has  disappeared.  As  soon  as  you 
have  frightened  him  so  that  he  will  stand  up  straight,  and 
pay  some  attention  to  you,  approach  him  again  and  caress 
him  a  good  deal  more  than  you  have  whipped  him ;  then 
you  will  excite  two  controlling  passions  of  his  nature — love 
and  fear — and  then  he  will  fear  and  love  you  too  ;  and  so 
soon  as  he  learns  what  to  do,  he  will  quickly  obey.  .  With 
these  remarks  upon  the  principles  of  my  theory,  I  have 
endeavored  to  teach  you  how  to  put  them  in  practice,  and 


176  THE   HORSE   OWNER's 

all  the  instructions  written  you  may  rely  on  as  having 
been  proven  practically  by  my  own  experiments ;  and 
knowing  from  experience  just  what  obstacles  I  have  met 
with  in  handling  bad  horses,  I  have  tried  to  anticipate 
them  for  your  good,  and  assist  you  in  surmounting  them 
by  commencing  with  the  first  steps  taken  with  the  colt, 
and  accompanying  you  through  the  whole  task  of  breaking. 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  177 

TRAINING  STEERS. 

AS  TAUGHT  BY  A.  H.  ROCKWELL. 


HOW  TO  TEACH  STEERS  TO  OBEY  THE  WHIP. 

First  get  your  steer  into  a  room,  or  small  yard,  so  that 
he  cannot  run  from  you,  then  approach  him  gently  and 
slowly,  and  if  he  runs  do  not  be  in  a  hurry ;  wait  till  he 
gets  to  the  end  of  the  enclosure,  then  approach  him  slowly, 
as  before.  A  steer  will  often  run  from  you  in  this  way 
six  or  eight  times.  Do  not  try  to  stop  him  with  your 
whip,  or  force  him  to  think  he  will  be  at  all  injured,  un- 
til he  will  stand  and  suffer  you  to  approach  him,  As 
soon  as  this  is  accomplished,  gently  tie  a  rope  around  his 
body,  near  the  shoulders,  rather  loosely.  Then  take 
another  rope,  or  strap,  and  gently  fasten  one  end  to  the 
near  forward  foot,  then  pass  the  other  end  over  the  rope, 
or  surcingle  beneath  the  body.  This  rope  should  be  suf- 
ficiently long  to  allow  him  to  run  to  the  end  of  the  en- 
closure without  your  moving,  at  the  same  time  you  hold- 
ing the  roj.e  firm  to  compel  him  to  move  on  three  legs. 
Then  approach  him  again,  quietly ;  he  will  not  run  off  in 
this  way  but  a  few  times  before  he  fully  comprehends 
that  he  will  not  be  injured,  when  he  will  suffer  you  to  ap- 
proach and  handle  him  just  as  you  please.  Now  take  a 
short  hold  of  the  strap  with  your  left  hand,  your  whip  in 
your  right,  which  pass  over  his  shoulders,  and  quietly 
touch  him  upon  the  of!'  side  of  his  head,  at  the  same  time 
saying  "haw,"  and  continue  this  until  he  moves  his  head 
a  little   towards  you.     Then    stop    and  caress  him   upon 


178  THE   HORSE   OWNER's 

and  about  his  neck  and  head.  Repeat  this  until  he  haws 
around  towards  you.  If  he  attempts  to  run  from  you, 
pull  upon  the  strap,  saying  "  whoa "  and  at  the  same 
time  hitting  him  lightly  upon  the  head  with  the  whip. 
As  soon  as  he  learns  in  this  way  to  stop  at  the  word  of 
command,  and  comes  toward  you  readily,  take  off  the 
strap  and  surcingle,  and  turn  him  out.  Then  take  the 
mate,  and  give  him  the  same  course  of  training  until*  you 
can  accomplish  with  him  a  like  result.  Then  turn  hini 
out.  By  this  time  the  first  steer  is  cool,  and  rested,  ready 
to  receive  another  lesson.  Now  drive  him  into  the  inclo- 
sure,  and  repeat  his  lessons  with  the  whip.  Then  quietly 
touch  him  gently  upon  the  near  side  of  the  head,  at 
the  same  time  saying  "  gee,"  until  he  will  step  around 
from  you,  then  caress  and  repeat  until  he  will  gee  or  haw 
readily.  Then  repeat  the  same  lesson  with  his  mate, 
which  is  all  that  is  necessary  to  he  done  the  first  half  day. 
Then  take  both  together  in  the  same  room,  or  yard,  and 
repeat  these  lessons  until  they  have  a  thorough  under- 
standing of  what  you  have  done.  Then  take  one  of  them 
near  the  wall,  standing  by  his  side  hitting  with  your  whip 
gently  over  the  head,  at  the  same  time  saying  "  back," 
until  he  will  step  back,  for  which  caress.  Repeat  this 
until  he  will  go  back  at  the  word  readily.  Then  give  the 
other  steer  the  same  lesson.  You  will  find  this  course  of 
training  will  make  your  steers  quite  obedient,  and  will- 
ing to  haw,  gee,  or  back,  which  will  be  all  that  you  should 
require  in  one  day's  time.  The  next  morning,  or  when 
you  have  time,  repeat  this  lesson  with  both  together. 
Then  place  the  yoke  upon  them,  and  let  them  go  for  an 
hour  or  two,  or  sufficiently  long  to  become  fully  reconciled 
to  the  restraint  of  the  yoke.     Then  repeat  your  lessons  in 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  179 

open  yard,  until   they  fully  understand  what  you  require 
of  them  yoked  together. 

This  course  of  training  does  not  excite,  while  it  conveys 
the  idea  most  clearly  of  what  is  required,  and  will  enable 
the  trainer  to  accomplish  more  in  a  given  time  than  has 
yet  been  done  by  any  other  system  of  managing  steers. 
If  your  steers  have  learned  to  run  away  from  you,  which 
is  a  common  result  of  the  ordinary  method  of  training, 
put  on  the  rope  and  strap,  to  the  foot.  If  hitched  to  a 
wagon,  or  stone  load,  let  your  man  hold  the  foot  strap, 
which  runs  back  between  the  steers,  and  the  moment 
they  attempt  to  run,  let  him  pull  up  the  feet,  while  you 
whip  over  the  head,  which  will  stop  them  immediately,  and 
will  very  soon  break  up  the  habit. 


KICKING  COWS. 
It  is  natural  for  the  cow  to  stand  while  being  milked. 
Consequently,  the  heifer  knows  nothing  about  kicking 
until  hurt,  or  frigliteued  into  it.  The  lesson  in  regard  to 
heifers  is  therefore  perfectly  plain.  Be  careful  and  not 
hurt  nor  frighten  them.  If,  by  accident,  you  should,  and 
they  kick,  do  not  punish  them  for  it.  Kindness  and 
gentle  handling  is  the  only  remedy.  If  your  cow  kicks, 
let  your  reasoning  for  the  cause  be  based  upon  the  princi- 
ple that  she  never  kicked  until  she  was  injured,  and  the 
remedy  will  at  once  suggest  itself.  No  cow  was  ever 
broken  of  kicking  by  striking  with  the  stool  or  other 
weapon.  This  practice  only  puts  the  cow  on  her  guard, 
and,  as  you  come  near  her  with  the  stool,  she  uses  nature's 
defence  and  kicks.  Handle  her  gently.  If  she  walks  off 
or  kicks,  pay  no  attention  to  it,  using  no  loud  words  nor 
blows.     If   her  teats    are  sore,  she  is  quite  liable    to  do 


180  THE   HORSE   OWNEr's 

either;  and  you  must  have  patience  until  they  are  healed. 
In  our  experience,  we  have  never  found  a  confirmed 
kicker  in  a  yard  where  kindness  was  a  characteristic  of  the 
family  who  handled  the  dairy ;  on  the  contrary,  we  have 
found  plenty  of  them,  where  quarreling,  loud  words  and 
general  bad  temper  prevailed.  Now,  if  you  have  a  bad, 
kicking  cow,  you  must  have  a  plan  by  which  you  can 
control  and  break  her  of  the  vice.  Take  your  surcingle 
and  buckl-e  it  around  her  waist,  just  back  of  the  fore  legs; 
then  attach  your  pole-strap  to  the  ten-inch  strap,  and 
buckle  around  the  nigh  hind  foot;  then  carry  the  pole- 
strap  through  the  fourth  ring  of  the  surcingle,  and  draw 
the  foot  from  the  floor ;  let  her  remain  in  that  position 
for  a  few  moments;  then  gradually  lower  the  foot  until 
she  can  partially  rest  it  on  the  floor;  while  in  that  position, 
it  will  be  impossible  for  her  to  kick,  and,  in  a  short  time, 
she  will  be  effectually  broken  of  the  vice. 


TRAINING  DOGS. 
The  dog  is  the  most  domesticatcil,  and  (next  to  the 
horse)  the  most  intelligent  of  all  animals.  He  is  easily 
taught,  and,  if  properly  treated,  is  a  faithful  and  willing 
servant  of  man  ;  if  misused  and  ill  treated,  he  is  very  apt 
to  become  disagreeable,  and  a  nuisance.  The  dog  being 
a  favorite  of  mankind,  it  becomes  a  duty  to  educate  him 
in  such  a  manner  that  he  will  not  only  reflect  credit,  but 
become  useful  to  his  master,  besides  being  an  agreeable 
inmate  to  all  members  of  the  household.  We  have  given 
particular  attention  to  the  subject,  it  being  one  which 
cannot  fail  to  interest  all  readers.  We  have  at  present 
two  of  the  best  trained  dogs  in  the  country — Minnie,  an 
Italian    greyhound,  and    Tasso,  a  black   and  tan.     They 


ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE.  181 

are  made  to  understand  any  words  of  the  English  lan- 
guage, simply  by  teaching  them  the  act,  and  then  the 
word  from  the  act.  The  rules  whereby  any  persons  can 
educate  a  dog  are  simple,  and  easily  understood,  but  it  is 
necessary  to  be  patient,  kind  and  persevering — (the  same. 
as  in  all  things).  We  give  a  few  rules — sufficient  to  ena- 
ble the  operator  to  practice  many  more.  Their  are  dif- 
ferent breeds  of  dogs,  and,  of  course,  as  many  different 
habits  and  dispositions  as  breed  ;  consequently  it  will  re- 
quire judgment  to  train  them  to  that  to  which  they  are 
best  adapted  by  nature.  For  instance,  the  St.  Bernard  is 
a  faithful  watch  dog,  while  the  setter  will  scent  game  with- 
out training;  a  terrier  will  catch  rats,  and  the  grey-hound 
takes  to  running  from  his  birth.  It  is  necessary  there- 
fore, in  attempting  to  teach  the  dog.  to  bear  in  mind 
these  natural  habits,  being  careful  not  to  urge  upon  him 
the  performance  of  any  duties,  or  tricks,  which  are  mani- 
festly not  in  his  nature  to  do.  When  selecting  dogs  for 
any  particular  lesson,  study  this  subject  closely,  as  un- 
doubtedly it  is  the  most  useful  lesson  to  be  taught.  We 
have  not  given  so  much  attention  to  educating  the  shepherd 
or  the  watch  dog  to  drive;  not  being  so  fond  of  this  kind 
as  of  teaching  the  more  intelligent  class  of  dogs  certain 
tricks,  &c.,  but  we  will  give  you  the  knowledge  of  the 
above   as  we  obtained  it  from  a  celebrated  dog  trainer. 

TRAINING  THE  SHEPHERD  TO  DRIVE. 

Take  a  well-bred  shepherd  dog,  about  six  months  old, 
reared  in  some  secluded  place  hearing  no  words  with  a 
meaning  intended  to  be  attached  except  his  name.  He 
should  know  nothing  of  the  ordinary  words  in  use  towards 
dogs,  and  not  have  been  handled  )  y  boys  or  careless  per- 


182  *       THE   HORSE   OWNER's 

sons.  Take  him  alone  with  yon  into  a  large  room.  The 
first  thing  to  be  done  is  to  teach  him  to  lead  ;  to  do  this,  place 
a  strap  around  his  neck,  that  cannot  hart  him,  to  which  at- 
tach a  cord  six  or  eight  feet  in  length ;  stand  still,  and 
hold  upon  the  cord  for  a  few  minutes,  until  he  ceases 
struggling  to  get  away.  It  is  best  to  give  one  lesson  each 
day  during  the  whole  training.  The  first  two  lessons 
should  be  devoted  to  teaching  him  that  he  cannot  get  away. 
Now,  conunence  teaching  him  to  come  to  you,  by  pulling 
upon  the  rope,  and  saying,  "Here,"  using  only  the  one 
word.  In  the  use  of  this  as  well  as  all  other  words  used  in 
training  the  dog,  one  word  is  all  it  is  best  to  try  and 
teach  him  for  any  one  act,  it  being  so  difficult  to  make 
him  understand,  if  you  attempt  to  teach  him  more.  When 
he  is  once  fixed  in  the  habit  of  minding  the  word,  you 
may  then  use  such  other  words  in  connection  therewith, 
as  are  pleasant  to  the  ear,  as,  for  instance,  "  come  here, 
sir."  Without  the  word  here  he  will  not  know  what  you 
mean,  and  the  others  being  meaningless  to  him,  do  not 
puzzle  him.  He  will  also  be  less  liable  to  have  too  many 
masters,  as  the  one  word  will  not  be  likely  to  be  used 
every  time  by  a  person  unacquainted  with  your  mode  of 
training.  Of  course,  if  you  prefer  it,  you  may,  in  giving 
the  lesson,  substitute  other  words  for  those  laid  down;  but 
we  give  those  which  are  readiest  to  the  tongae.  As  the 
dog  comes  up,  whether  voluntarily  or  not,  say,  "Do"  and 
caress  him.  A  lesson  of  an  hour  or  two,  each  time  work- 
ing slowly  and  patiently,  will  be  about  right.  Proceed 
with  it  until -he  will  come  to  you  from  any  portion  of  the 
room,  at  the  word  "Here."  He  will  have  learned  by  this 
time,  probably,  that  the  word  "Do"  is  for  him  to  understand 
that  you  are  through  with  him.    When  he  perfectly  realizes 


ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE.  183 

this  you  may  then  prefix  words,  and  say  "  that  will  do," 
emphasizing  the  word  do  each  time.  You  may  also 
now  say,  "  Come  here,"  remembering  that  the  words  here 
and  do  are  the  only  ones  he  obeys.  He  cannot  connect 
sentences,  nor  be  made  to  understand  them  when  once  con- 
nected. You  now  wish  him  to  learn  the  words  "  Go"  and 
"Halt."  To  do  thisj  yon  will  place  yourself  in  a  portion 
of  the  room  opposite  to  where  the  dog  would  naturally 
desire  to  go  (the  door,  for  instance,  or  something  that 
would  attract,  him  such  as  food,)  say  "  Go"  and  by  coax- 
ing and  urging  him,  start  him  along,  as  he  gets  part  of 
the  way,  say  "Halt,"  pulling  upon  the  string,  stopping  him 
and  saying  "Halt"'again.  Proceed  with  this  until  he  has, 
learned  to  obey  both  the  words,  "  Go"  and  "  Halt."  To 
teach  these  four  words  named,  will  generally  take  three 
or  four  weeks.  Now  let  him  learn  to  bark  at  the  word 
"  Speak,"  by  holding  up  something  which  he  wants  very 
much,  for  instance,  food,  when  he  is  very  hungry.  You 
may  then  let  him  loose,  and  let  him  run  about  with  you 
(previously  keeping  him  confined,  but  not  in  a  narrow 
place),  being  watchful  that  he  does  not  stray  off,  nor  be 
hurt,  nor  handled  by  others.  He  will  soon  become  handy 
about  the  house,  you  having  control  of  him  through  the 
words  you  have  tauglit  him  and  you  can  keep  himiu  his  place 
by  the  word  of  command.  For  instance,  if  you  wish  him 
to  go  out  of  doors,  show  him  the  door,  and  say."  Go  out." 
The  word  "go"  will  start  him,  and  in  a  little  while  he 
will  become  familiar  with  the  word  "out."  Give  him  a 
fixed  place  to  sleep,  and  teach  him  its  name.-  If  you  have 
a  dog  already  trained  to  drive  and  go  behind,  take  him 
out  with  him  to  drive  in  the  cattle.  He  will  learn  that 
they  will  run  from  him.     Say  nothing  to  him  while  he  is 


184  THE   HORSE   OWNER's 

with  the  other  dog,  unless  he  attempts  to  go  to  the  head 
of  any  of  the  cattle.  This  you  must  not  allow.  After 
two  or  three  times,  take  him  out  without  the  other  dog, 
and  allow  him  to  run  after  the  cattle,  provided  the  cattle 
are  used  to  being  driven  by  dogs.  It  will  not  do  to  let 
him  run  M'here  there  is  a  chance  of  being  turned  upon. 
If  he  drives  them  too  fast,  say  "Steady.  "He  will  not  know 
what  you  mean,  but,  as  you  use  words  with  him  only 
when  they  mean  something,  he  will  be  apt  to  pay  atten- 
tion and  go  slower.  If  he  does  not,  say  "  Halt,"  then 
"  Go,"  steadying  him  by  the  word  "  Steady,"  if  possible. 
He  will  gradually  learn  its  meaning  by  its  repetition.  If 
you  have  no  other  dog  you  will  let  him  go  without,  being 
more  watchful  of  him,  that  he  does  not  go  to  the  head  of 
the  cattle,  otherwise  say  nothing  to  him,  except  "  Go," 
not  letting  him  start  until  he  gets  the  word.  After 
a  while  you  may  proceed  to  practice  upon  the  other  words 
he  knows.  If  he  shows  no  disposition  to  bite  at  the  heels, 
or  pull  at  the  tail,  take  a  rope,  and  tie  a  knot  a  short 
distance  up,  fringe  out  the  end,  and  play  with  him  with 
the  rope,  letting  him  catch  hold  of  it,  and  causing  him  to 
bark  at  it  by  using  the  word  "  Speak."  When  he  takes 
hold  of  the  rope  say  "  Up,"  and  when  you  wish  him  to 
let  go  "  Do."  You  may  then  with  a  slow  cow,  call  him 
up,  and  taking  hold  of  the  tail,  say  "  Up,"  and  "  Speak,'' 
to  teach  him  to  take  hold  of  the  tail  and  bark,  when  you 
say,  "  Start  em  up,"  and  ''  Speak  to  them,"  and  to  let  go 
when  you  say  "  That  will  do."  Now  accustom  him  to 
the  word  "  Fetch,"  for  sheep,  and  "  Get,"  for  cattle,  etc., 
so  that  when  you  say"  Go  and  get  the  cattle,"  he  knows 
that  you  mean  cattle  instead  of  sheep  or  horses.  You  may 
now  teaeh  him  to  know  the  right  from  the  left,  and  to  obey 


ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE.  185 

your  orders  in  that  respect,  by  taking  him  into  a  large 
room,  and,  by  the  motion  of  your  right  hand,  try  to  have 
him  go  to  the  right  from  yoa,  saying  "  Go — right."  If 
he  does  not  do  it,  say  "  Halt,"  and  repeat.  When  he 
does  do  it,  say  "  That  will  do."  Continue  this  until  he 
will  go  to  the  right  at  the  motion  of  your  hand  and  the 
word  "Right  "  ;  then  making  motions  with  your  left  hand, 
and  using  the  word  "  Left,"  you  teach  him  the  opposite  .By 
these  motions,  and  an  appeal  to  the  intelligence  of  the 
dog,  by  your  countenance  and  eyes,  you  can  start  him  for 
the  fields  in  any  direction  you  choose,  and  he  soon  learns 
to  do  what  you  want  with  very  little  telling.  Following 
these  rules  will  satisfy  you  that  the  dog  can  be  taught 
indefinitely  respecting  all  things  which  pertain  to  his  pe- 
culiar nature. 

THE  WATCH  DOG. 
For  a  good  watch  dog,  select  one  of  a  breed  adapted  to 
the  business.  There  is  but  little  that  you  can  teach  such 
an  one,  as  it  is  somewhat  of  a  natural  trait,  and  any  other 
than  a  natural  watch  dog,  however  much  you  may  labor 
with  him,  will  never  be  reliable.  A  barking  dog,  one 
that  will  be  noisy  on  the  approach  of  intruders,  is  the 
best.  A  dog  that  bites,  but  does  not  bark,  is  only  tit  to 
put  in  barns  or  other  out-buildings,  nights,  chaining  him 
up  day  times;  and  then  he  is  dangerous  even  to  his  keep- 
er, as  a  sudden  start  will  cause  him  to  bite  any  one.  To 
teach  your  dog,  give  him  something  to  watch,  saying 
"Take  care  of  it,"  as  you  place  him  near  the  object.  He 
will  soon  learn  the  word,  and  upon  being  directed  to  any 
particular  thing  will  faithfully  guard  it.  While  teaching 
him,  allow  no  one  but  yourself  to  approach  him,  without 
setting  him  on.      You  may  have  a  stranger  approach  him 


186  THE   HORSE   OWNER's 

and  tease  him,  you  urging  him  to  drive  the  stranger  away, 
and  as  soon  as  he  starts,  let  the  person  run,  you  calling 
the  dog  back.  While  young  do  not  compel  him  to  stay 
too  long  at  one  thing,  and  wheii  you  go  up  to  him  and 
say,  ''  That  will  do,"  feed  him  something.  After  the 
manner  spoken  of  in  the  previous  illustration,  whenever 
you  wish  the  dog  to  bite,  or  go  at  any  person  or  thing, 
you  will  teach  him  the  words  the  reverse  of  what  you 
mean,  such  as  "  Be  still,"  "Get  out,"  "Lie  down."  You 
will  see  that  a  person  not  understandiug  the  dog  will  not 
be  very  apt  to  get  near  him,  as  he  would  naturally  make 
use  of  those  words,  and  they  would  be  setting  him  on  in- 
stead of  quieting  him.  To  call  him  yourself,  use  such 
convenient  word  as  you  choose,  but  not  one  naturally 
used  by  others.  As  this  ingenious  use  of  words  is  about 
the  only  new  idea  we  can  suggest  to  teach  watch  dogs, 
the  masters  can  use  his  own  ingenuity  to  render  it 
practical. 

THE  TRICK  DOG. 

Many  amusing  tricks  may  be  taught  which  will  exhib- 
it in  a  wonderful  degree  the  intelligence  of  the  dog.  As 
we  have  before  said,  much  depends  upon  the  breed.  A 
dog  of  one  peculiar  breed  may  be  taught  a  certain  class 
of  tricks,  while  that  of  another  breed  will  be  entirely  dif- 
ferent in  his  characteristics.  A  well-br^d  dog  is  hard  to 
learn  any  tricks  except  those  pertaining  to  his  nature ; 
while  a  mongrel  cur  is  quite  easy  to  learn  any.  Perhaps 
a  Spaniel  poodle  dog  is  the  most  tractable  of  any;  a  black- 
'  and-tan  is  quite  apt.  We  give  a  few  examples,  sufficient 
to  form  a  groundwork  for  the  intelligent  operator  to  ex- 
tend his  list  of  tricks  at  his  pleasure. 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  187 

THE  FIRST  STEP  TO  BE   TAKEN. 

When  you  are  preparing  the  dog  to  receive  his  first  les- 
son, it  is  necessary  to  place  him  where  you  can  control 
him.  Procure  a  piece  of  cord  ten  feet  long,  and  one-fourth 
of  an  inch  in  diameter,  tie  a  knot  at  each  end — one  that 
will  not  slip.  Take  one  end,  place  it  around  the  dog's 
neck,  to  get  the  size,  then  tie  another  knot,  and  ao-ain 
place  it  around  his  neck,  slipping  the  end  with  knot 
through,  and  make  fast.  The  proper  way  of  training  him 
is  with  a  whip^  a  small  riding  whip.  In  giving  him  his 
first  lesson,  should  he  attempt  to  run  from  you  (as  he  un- 
doubtedly will),  give  him  a  sudden  jerk  and  say,  "  Come 
here ;"  as  he  comes  back,  talk  gently,  pat  and  caress  him  ; 
that  is  to  show  him  he  has  done  right  in  coming  back. 
A  few  pulls  with  the  cord,  and  he  will  not  attempt  to. 
leave  you. 

TO  TEACH  HIM  TO  SIT  DOWN  . 

Press  your  hand  upon  his  back  toward  the  hind  legs 
and  say,  "  sit  down,"  at  the  same  time  tapping  with  your 
foot  upon  the  floor.  If  he  attempts  to  lie  down  or  draw 
his  feet  under  him,  coax  him  up,  and  teach  him  that  "sit 
down  "  is  what  you  are  after,  tapping  him  under  the  chin 
to  keep  his  head  well  up.  He  will,  after  a  few  lessons, 
sit  down  at  the  word  and  a  tapping  of  your  foot  on  the 
floor,  or  with  your  whip,  holding  him  by  the  cord ;  tap 
him  lightly  on  the  top  of  the  quarters,  saying  "sit  down," 
each  time  a  little  harder,  until  he  sits  down,  then  pat  him 
to  show  he  has  done  right. 

TO  MAKE  A  BOW.' 

When  he  gets  handy,  and  will  sit  down  at  the  word, 
then  say  to  him,  "  make  a  bow."  This  trick  he  will 
learn    in   a    very    short    time.     As   he   sits   down,   place 


188  THE   KORSE   OWNER's 

yonr  right  hand  on  the  top  of  his  head,  and  with  a  quick 
move  press  down,  saying,  "make  a  bow."  By  accompa- 
nying the  word  with  the  act,  quite  often,  each  day,  for  a 
few  days,  he  will  understand  the  word  without  the  act, 
and  obey  readily. 

TO  TEACH  HIM  TO  SIT  UP. 

Set  him  up  in  the  corner,  and  with  a  switch,  hit  him 
lightly  under  the  mouth,  snapping  your  finger  and  saying 
"  sit  up."  As  he  comes  down,  put  him  back  and  repeat, 
until  he  remains,  which  he  will  do  in  a  few  minutes,  then 
say  "that  will  do,"  and  coax  him  down,  and  caress  him. 
When  he  has  learned  this  sufficiently,  set  him  up  against 
a  wall  and  try  the  same  thing.  This  will  require  more 
patience,  as  he  can  so  easily  get  over  to  either  side.  When, 
however,  he  will  do  it,  then  take  him  out  in  the  centre  of 
the  floor ;  this  will  take  still  longer,  but  if  followed  up, 
kindly,  and  perseveringly,  he  will  learn  to  perform  the 
trick  at  the  word  and  the  snapping  of  the  finger. 

TO  STAND  UP. 

Take  some  food  in  your  hands,  and  offer  it  to  him,  hold- 
ing it  well  up,  and  say  "stand  up."  Repeat  this  until 
he  will  stand  up  quite  readily,  holding  out  your  unoccu- 
pied hand  for  him  to  support  his  fore-feet  on.  Gradually 
take  away  your  hand,  each  time  that  he  comes  up,  saying 
"stand  up."  Then  take  him  by  the  forward  feet,  and 
lift  him  up  quite  hard,  and  say,  "  stand  up."  You  will 
soon  get  him  so  that  when  you  lift  him  he  will  straighten 
up  and  show  signs  of  standing ;  then  make  the  effort  to 
teach  him  to  stand  up  at  the  word,  and  the  holding  out  of 
your  hand.  You  may  now  combine  this  with  the  last 
trick,  saying,  "  sit  up,"  "  stand  up,"  "  that  will  do."    These 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  189 

are  the  first  tricks  he  should  be  taught,  as  they  are  the 
foundatiou  for  others. 

TO  GET  INTO  A  CHAIR. 

This  is  easily  done,  taking  your  own  way  to  coax  him 
iuto  the  chair,  using  the  word  "chair"  whenever  you 
cause  him  to  get  into  it.  When  he  becomes  familiar  with 
the  word,  accompanied  with  a  motion  of  the  hand  towards 
a  chair,  you  may  use  other  words  in  connection  there- 
with, "Go  and  get  into  the  chair."  After  he  will  do 
this  handily,  you  may  then  teach  him  to  put  his  paws  upon 
the  back  of  the  chair,  by  asking  him  "  to  put  them  up,"  or 
saying  "  up,"  assisting  him  at  first.  When  he  will  do  it 
readily,  you  may  teach  him  to  put  his  head  down  upon  his 
paws,  by  placing  it  there,  and  repeating  the  word  "down," 
of  course  caressing  him  each  time  that  he  complies.  To 
have  him  hold  up  his  head,  tap  him  under  the  mouth 
and  say  "  up,"  remembering  to  say  "  that  will  do,"  when 
you  are  through  the  trick.  You  may  teach  him  to  jump 
over  the  chair  by  playfully  coaxing  him  to  do  so,  saying 
"jump." 

TO  MAKE  HIM  GO  LAMB. 

Tap  him  with  a  little  rod  upon  the  hind  foot,  saying 
"  lame,"  teaching  him  to  stand  and  hold  it  up  whenever 
you  say  "  lame."  Now  coax  him  along,  and  if  he  puts 
it  down,  hit  him  quite  smartly  on  the  foot,  making  him 
keep  it  up  until  he  will  go  lame  at  the  word  and  a  motion 
of  the  rod.  Now  whenever  you  send  him  to  the  chair,  as 
before,  as  he  goes  to  jump  down,  stop  him,  teaching  him 
to  wait  for  the  word  "  do,"  as  he  comes  down  with  his 
fore-feet  on  the  floor,  say  "  steady,"  and  teach  him  to  stop 
with  his  hind  legs  in  the  chair.     He  is  now  ready 


190  THE   HORSE   OWNER's 

TO  RUIT  OW  HIS  FORWARD  LEGS. 

To  teach  him  this,  take  hoki  of  his  hind  legs,  lift  them 
up  and  walk  him  around  in  a  circle,  and  place  them  in  a 
chair,  saying  "romid."  Do  this  every  time  you  perform 
the  trick  of  having  him  get  into  a  chair.  After  a  while 
take  him  by  the  tail  and  lift  him  up,  and,  switching  his 
hind  legs  lightly,  walk  him  around  in  the  same  manner, 
saying  "round,"  as  before.  With  patience  and  perse- 
verance he  will  learn  to  lift  up  his  hind  legs  at  the  motion 
of  the  whip,  and.  on  the  words  "go  round,"  perform  a 
circle,  walking  on  his  forward  feet,  and  place  his  hind  feet 
in  the  chair ;  of  course  the  height  of  the  chair  must  be 
ad^Dted  to  the  length  of  the  dog's  legs. 

TO  SIT  ON  A  STOOL. 

It  is  now  very  easy  to  teach  him  to  "sit  down"  on  a 
low  stool.  You  may  then  teach  him  to  "take  a  seat"  on 
the  stool  by  leading  him  around  by  his  forward  feet,  and 
setting  him  on  the  stool  with  his  forward  feet  held  up, 
saying  "seat;"  you  then  have  him  learned  to  go  on  all 
fours,  to  sit  down  on  the  stool,  and  to  go  on  his  hind  feet 
and  take  a  seat  with  his  forward  feet  up. 

TO  TEACH  HIM  TO  FIND  THINGS. 

Take  something  with  which  he  is  accustomed  to  play, 
and,  after  getting  him  enlivened  with  play,  call  him  up  to 
you  and  blindfold  him,  and  throw  the  article  a  short  dis- 
tance from  you.  If  the  dog  has  good  scent,  tell  him  you 
have  "lost,"  then  remove  the  blindfold  and  he  will  search 
and  find  it.  Repeat  this,  throwing  it  farther  each  time, 
until  you  can  throw  your  knife  or  anything  which  you 
have  held  in  your  hand,  at  a  distance,  you  looking  in  the 
direction  and  saying,  "  I  have  lost  my  knife."  He  will 
search  until   he  finds  and   brings  it  to  you.     If  the  dog 


ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE.  191 

has  not  good  scent,  teach  him  to  look  down  at  the  word 
"  find,"  and  up  at  the  word  "  up,"  doing  as  before.  We 
have  now  given  a  sufficient  number  of  examples  to  set 
forth  the  important  rules  which  govern  the  teaching  of 
dogs.  By  an  observance  of  these,  you  may  teach  your 
dog  to  climb  ladders,  fetch  things  to  you,  carry  baskets, 
roll  over,  lie  down,  shut  doors,  and  an  almost  innumerable 
number  of  tricks.  To  teach  the  dog,  however,  you  must 
have  perfect  control  over  your  temper,  never  whip  severely, 
never  get  out  of  patience. 

TO  TEACH  HIM  TO  CREEP. 
First  make  him  lie  down  on  all  fours ;  then  get  upon 
your  knees,  take  your  dog's  fore  paws  in  your  hands,  and 
rest  the  back  of  your  hands  on  the  floor;  draw  your  hands, 
first  one  and  then  the  other,  toward  you,  saying  "  creep, 
creep,  sir."  If  he  attempts  to  get  up,  hold  his  fore 
legs  fast  to  the  floor,  saying  "  careful,  sir."  As  soon 
as  he  stops  stru;j:gling,  begin  again.  This  is  one  of  the 
easiest  tricks  for  a  dog  to  learn,  and  can  be  taught  him  in 
a  very  short  time. 

TO  BE  A  DEAD  DOG. 
Take  your  dog  by  the  fore  shoulders;  say  to  him  "be 
dead ; "  at  the  same  time  lay  him  down  on  his  side.  He 
will  at  first  struggle  to  get  up,  but  hold  him  fast,  and  when 
he  is  quiet,  take  your  hands  from  him.  Work  slowly  and 
carefully.  If  he  attempts  to  get  up,  hold  his  head  to  the 
floor  again.  In  a  short  time  he  will  lie  down  upon  his 
side  at  the  word  "  dead."  When  you  wish  him  to  get  up, 
change  your  voice,  and  speak  quickly  but  not  harshly, 
"  that  will  do,  sir,"  or  "  dinner  is  ready,"  or  "  beefsteak," 
or  any  word  you  wish,  and  after  he  has  thoroughly  learned 
the  word  he  will  not  get  up  until  you  speak  it. 


192    '  THE    HOESE   OWNER's 

TO  BALANCE  ON  THE  BACK  OP  A  CHAIR. 

Take  a  common  bar-voom  chair — one  with  wide  arms 
is  best ;  coax  your  dog  np  into  it ;  take  his  fore  paws  and 
place  them  on  the  arm  of  the  chair ;  pat  and  caress  him 
as  you  proceed.  Now  get  another  chair,  and  place  it 
about  a  foot  from  the  first ;  stand  on  the  outside  of  the 
chair,  and  coax  him  to  come  to  you.  They  sometimes 
will  jump  over  the  arm;  if  they  do,  put  them  back  again 
and  speak  out  sharply,  "  careful."  Try  him  again.  He 
then  will  probably  put  all  his  feet  on  the  arm  of  the  chair. 
If  he  does,  take  the  second  chair  away,  and  step  in  front  of 
him  as  quickly  as  possible  ;  put  your  hand  under  his  chin 
and  steady  him ;  gradually  take  your  hand  away,  and  pat 
and  caress  him.  If  you  have  a  small  piece  of  meat  to 
give  him,  so  much  the  better ;  but  never  caress  nor  feed 
him  unless  he  does  right. 

TO  TEACH  HIM  TO  WALTZ. 

First  teach  him  to  stand  up.  Then  take  a  piece  of 
meat  and  hold  it  up  above  his  head.  If  he  jumps  for  it, 
take  it  out  of  bis  way,  and  give  him  a  slight  cuff  on  the  ear. 
Now  say  to  him  "  stand  up."  If  he  obeys  you,  give  him 
a  small  piece.  Then  hold  another  piece  near  his  nose,  and 
carry  it  around  over  his  head,  saying,  "  waltz."  If  he 
turns  after  it  give  it  to  him.  Try  him  so  for  several  times  ; 
then  make  him  turn  two  or  three  times  before  you  reward 
him.  Work  this  way  for  a  short  time,  and  he  will  waltz 
for  you  at  the  word,  without  any  reward. 


DISEASES  OF  THE  DOG. 
Administering    Medicine.  —  We   will    commence   this 
work    by    giving    directions    how    to   administer   medi 


ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE.  193 

cine.  If  3"our  dog  is  not  large,  you  can  manage  him  by 
yourself.  Invert  a  bucket  and  sit  on  it  ;  set  the  dog  down 
on  his  haunches,  between  your  legs,  holding  him  with 
your  knees;  tie  a  cloth  around  his  neck;  this,  falling  over 
his  fore  paws  is  pressed  against  his  ribs  by  your  knees ; 
his  fore  legs,  by  this  dodge,  are  "  hors  du  combat."  With 
the  finger  and  thumb  of  one  hand  force  open  the  jaws, 
elevating  his  head  at  the  same  time  with  the  same 
hand.  If  a  bolus,  with  the  other  hand  pass  it  over 
the  roots  of  his  tongue,  and  give  it  a  sharp  poke  down- 
ward ;  close  the  mouth,  still  holding  up  the  head  till 
you  see  it  swallowed.  If  a  draught,  give  a  mouthful, 
close  the  mouth,  hold  up  the  head,  and  stop  the  nostrils. 
Repeat  this  if  the  drauglit  is  too  large  to  be  taken  at  once. 
If  the  dog  is  very  large  you  must  have  an  assistant,  else  in 
his  struggles  he  will  upset  you  and  the  medicine  too. 

Physic. — In  giving  a  dog  physic,  be  sure  to  keep  him 
warm  and  dry,  especially  if  you  use  calomel  or  mercurial 
preparations.  Always  remove  him  from  the  kennel  and 
put  him  into  a  hospital  apart  from  the  rest,  to  prevent 
infection,  as  well  as  to  insure  the  poor  brute  quietness. 
Study  the  appearance  of  the  eyes,  feet,  nose,  extremities, 
pulse,  etc. 

To  Make  a.  Bitch  Inclined  to  Copulate. — Seven  drops 
tincture  of  cantharides  twice  a  day  till  effect  is  produced; 
about  six  days  probably. 

Mange. — Caused  by  dirty  kennels,  neglect,  want  of 
nourishing,  or  improper  food.  Cure — 1  oz.  salts,  if  dog  of 
moderate  size ;  rub  every  third  day,  well  into  the  skin,  of 
the  following  mixture  :  train  oil  (tanner's  will  do),  1  quart; 
spirits  turpentine,  1  large  wine  glass  full;  sulphur,  sufft- 
cient  to  make  a  thin  paste  ;  mix  well ;  let  it  stay  on  the  an 


194  THE   HORSE   OWNEr's 

imal  two  weeks,  then  wash  well  with  castile  soap  and  warm 
water. 

Worms. — Cowhage,  ^  drachm  ;  tin  fillings  (very  fine), 
4  drachms ;  make  into  four  or  six  balls,  according  to  size 
of  dog  ;  one  daily,  and  a  few  hours  afterwards,  a  purge  of 
salts  or  aloes.  Another  remedy — powdered  glass,  as  much 
as  will  lie  on  a  quarter  of  a  dollar,  mixed  with  lard.  Re- 
peat once  or  twice  alternate  days ;  finish  off  with  one  or 
two  drachms  of  soctrine  aloes  rolled  up  in  tissue  paper. 

To  Make  a  Doq  Fine  in  his  Coat. — A  table-spoonful 
of  tar  and  oatmeal ;  make  bolus. 

To  Destroy  Lice. — Sometimes  the  recipe  for  fleas  will 
prove  efncacioiis,  but  not  always ;  put  a  small  quantity  of 
mercurial  ointment,  reduced  by  adding  hog's  lard  to  it, 
say  an  equal  quantity,  ruBbed  along  the  back  never  fails  ; 
but  the  greatest  care  must  be  taken  to  keep  the  animal 
warm  and  dry. 

Distemper. — Distemper  is  caused  by  low  keep,  neglect 
and  change  of  atmosphere.  Symptoms  of  the  disease  are 
as  follows  :  Loss  of  spirit,  activity  and  appetite,  drowsiness, 
dulness  of  the  eyes,  lying  at  length  with  nose  to  the  ground 
coldness  of  extremities,  legs,  ears  and  lips,  heat  in  head  and 
body,  running  at  the  nose  and  eyes,  accompanied  by  sneez- 
ing, emaciation  and  weakness,  dragging  of  hind  quarters, 
flanks  drawn  in,  diarrhoea,  and  sometimes  vomiting.  There 
are  several  receipts  for  this,  the  worst  of  all  diseases.  One 
is  better  than  another,  according  to  the  various  stages. 
The  first,  if  taken  at  an  early  stage,  seldom  ftiils;  half  an 
ounce  ef  salts  in  warm  water,  when  first  taken  ill  ;  thirty- 
six  hours  afterwards,  ten  grains  compound  powder  of  ipe- 
cacuanha in  warm  water.  If  in  two  days  he  is  not  better, 
take  sixteen  grains   antimonial   powder,   made   into   four 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  195 

boluses,  one  night  and  morning  for  two  days.  If  no  im- 
pro7ement  is  visible,  continue  these  pills,  unless  diarrhoea 
comes  on,  in  which  case  you  must  use  the  ipecacuanha  day, 
aboujt  with  the  pills.  If  the  animal  is  mnch  weakened  by 
this,  give  him  one  teaspoonful  IIuKam's  tinctura  of  bark 
three  times  a  day.  James'  powder  is  almost  a  certain  rem- 
edy— dose,  four  grains.  In  case  of  fits  coming  on  de- 
stroy the  animal.  The  same  may  be  said  of  paralysis.  If 
this  disease  is  taken  in  its  early  stages  and  attended  to, 
and  the  dog  kept  warm,  there  is  not  much  danger,  other- 
wise it  is  very  fatal. 

Bilious  Fever  is  caused  by  want  of  exercise  and  to'o 
high  feeding.  Calumel,  six  or  eight  grains,  or  in  an  obsti- 
nate case,  turpeth  mineral  or  yellow  mercury,  six  to  twelve 
grains  in  a  bolus. 

Inflammation  of  the  Bowels. — Symptoms:  dulness 
of  appearance  and  eyes;  loss  of  appetite  ;  lying  on  the 
belly  with  outstretched  legs :  pulse  much  quickened  ; 
scratching  up  the  bed  into  a  heap,  and  pressing  the  belly 
on  it,  desire  to  swallow  stones,  coal  or  any  cold  substance 
not  voidable;  inclination  to  hide  away.  It  is  very  danger- 
ous, and  requires  active  treatment.  Bleed  most  freely 
until  the  dog  faints  away  :  clap  a  blister  on  the  pit  of  the 
stomach.  Give  aloes  fifteen  grains,  opium  half  a  grain  ; 
repeat  dose  three  times  a  day.  Bleed  after  twelve  hours 
if  the  {Hilse  rises  again,  and  continue  dosing  and  bleeding 
till  either  the  dog  or  inflammation  gives  in.  No  half  meas- 
ures do  in  this  case.  If  you  get  the  upper  hand  there  is  no 
trouble  ;  if  not  it  is  fatal.  Feed  low,  and  attend  carefully 
to  prevent  relapse. 

Staggers  and  Fits. — This  generally  happens  in  warm 
weather.      Throw    water    on    them    if  convenient;  if  not 


196  THE   HORSE   OWNER's 

bleed  in  the  neck,  if  you  have  lancets ;  if  not,  slit  the  ears 
with  your  knife  (you  can  cause  them  to  adhere  together 
again),  or  run  your  knife  across  two  or  three  bars  next  the 
teeth.  Bitches  coming  off  heat  are  more  subject  to  this 
than  dogs  in  good  health. 

Bleeding — You  may  readily  bleed  a  dog  in  the  jugu- 
lar vein,  by  holding  up  his  head,  stopping  the  circulation  at 
the  base  of  the  neck.  .  Part  the  hair,  and  with  the  lancet 
make  an  incision,  taking  care  not  to  stick  him  too  deeply. 
If  the  animal  rejoices  in  a  heavy  coat,  it  may  be  necessary 
to  shave  away  the  hair.  From  one  to  eight  ounces  are  the 
quantities  ;  use  your  own  judgment. 

Canker  in  the  Ear. — Wash  well  with  soap  and  warm 
water  ;  fill  the  ear  with  finely  powdered  charcoal  or  pow- 
dered borax.  Clean  out  daily  with  sponge  on  stick  and 
warm  water,  and  repeat  the  dusting  till  it  heals.  Another 
remedy.  Oak  bark,  one  pound,  chopped  fine  and  well 
boiled  in  soft  water.  When  cold  take  of  the  decoction 
of  bark  four  ounces ;  sugar  of  lead,  half  a  drachm,  put  a 
teaspoonful  into  the  ear  night  and  morning,  rubbing  the 
root  of  the  ear  well  to  cause  it  to  get  well  into  the  cavi- 
ties.    This  is  one  of  the  best  receipts  in  this  book. 

External  Canker  of  the  Ear.  — Butter  of  antimo- 
ny diluted  in  milk  to  the  thickness  of  cream,  will  cure  it ; 
or  red  precipitate,  half  an  ounce  with  two  ounces  of  hog's 
lard,  mixed  well. 

For  a  Strain. — Use  Bertine's  liniment,  or  one  ounce 
of  turpentine,  half  pint  old  beer,  half  pint  brine,  bathe 
the  part  and  repeat,  or  sal  ammonia,  one  ounce,  vinegar, 
one  pint. 

Bruises  or  Strains  of  Long  Standing.  —  Gall  and 
opodeMoc    are   excellent;  shaved   camphor,    two    ounces  ; 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  197 

spirits  of  wine,  three  quarters  of  a  pint ;  shake  well,  and 
cork  close,  placing  it  near  the  fire  until  the  camphor  dis- 
solves; then  add  a  bullock's  gall,  shake  well  together; 
apply,  rubbing  it  well  into  the  part  affected  until  it 
lathers. 

Dog  Poisoned. — Give  a  teacup  full  of  castor  oil,  after 
he  has  vomited  well,  continue  to  pour  olive  oil  down  his 
throat  and  rub  his  belly. 

Fleas. — Scotch  snuff  steeped  in  gin  is  infallible  ;  but 
must  be  used  with  great  care,  and  not  above  a  teaspoonful 
of  snuff  to  a  pint  of  gin — as  the  cure,  if  overdone,  is  a 
deadly  poison. 

Torn  Ears, — Laudanum  and  brandy,  equal  parts,  mix 
well ;  apply  alternately  with  sweet  oil. 

Swelled  Teats. — Make  pomade  of  camphorated  spirit 
of  brandy,  and  goose  grease  ;  apply  two  to  three  times 
daily. 

To  Extract  Thorns. — Cobbler's  wax  bound  on  to  the 
place,  or  black  pitch  plaster  or  a  poultice  are  equally 
good. 

Films  oyer  the  Eyes. — Blue-stone  or  lunar  caustic, 
eight  grains  :  spring  water,  one  ounce.  Wash  the  eyes 
with  it,  letting  a  little  pass  in.  Repeat  this  daily,  and 
you  will  soon  cure  it. 

Films  caused  by  Thorn  Wound^. — Rest  the  dog  till 
perfectly  headed  over,  washing  with  rose  water.  If  much 
inflammation,  bleed  and  foment  with  hot  water,  with  a 
few  drops  of  laudanum  in  it — about  forty  drops  of  lauda- 
num to  one  ounce  of  water;  or  two  grains  of  opium  to  one 
ounce  of  water — one  as  good  as  the  other.  Then  apply 
four  or  five  times  a  day  the  following  wash.  Super-ace- 
tate of  lead  half  a  drachm,  rose  water  six  ounces. 


198  THE   HORSE    OWNER's 

Stripping  Feet. — Wash  in  bran  and  warm  water  with 
a  little  vinegar ;  after,  apply  tincture  of  myrrh.  Apply 
sweet  oil  before  he  goes  out.  If  his  feet  are  sore,  wash  in 
buttermilk  until  better,  then  apply  brine  and  vinegar 
equal  parts. 

Wounds. — Poultice  for  a  day  or  two,  then  apply  Fri- 
ar's Balsam,  covering  up  the  place. 

For  a  Geeen  Wound. — Hog's  lard,  turpentine  and 
beeswax  equal  parts ;  verdigris  one-fourth  part.  Simmer 
over  a  slow  fire  till  they  are  well  mixed  and  apply. 

Purgative  Medicines. — Salts,  one  ounce,  calomel, 
five  grains ;  or  socotrine  aloes,  two  drachms  for  a  moderate 
sized  dog. 

To    REDUCE    the    TIME     A    BITCH     IS     IN     HEAT. Give     her 

a  little  nitre  in  water,  and  a  dose  of  calomel  four  grains 
or  thereabouts,  followed  by  salts  or  aloes. 

Feed  for  Greyhounds  in  training. — Wheat  flour 
and  oat  meal,  old,  equal  parts.  Liquorice,  anise-seed  and 
white  of  eggs.  Aiake  into  a  paste ;  make  loaves,  bake 
them ;  break  into  a  very  rich  broth. 

Bite  of  Snake. — Olive  oil  well  rubbed  in  before  the 
fire,  and  a  copious  drench  of  it  also. 


.  DISEASES  OF  THE^  HORSE. 

INFLAMMATION. 

From  inflammo^  1  burn,  is  one  of  the  most  common 
forms  of  disease  presented  to  the  veterinary  surgeon,  and 
regarding  which  many  erroneous  opinions  have  prevailed, 
in  consequence  of  which  much  injuriy  and  often  serious 
consequences     have    resulted.     Sound     medical     practice 


ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE.  1^9 

must  be  based  upon  sound  medical  principles.  A  correct 
understanding  of  the  term  inflammation  will  assist  us 
very  materially  in  understanding  the  pathology  of  dis- 
eases in  their  most  complicated  forms.  A  few  years  since, 
every  form  of  disease  occurring  in  our  domestic  animals 
was  regarded  and  treated  as  some  form  of  inflammation  ; 
purging  and  bleeding  were  the  order  of  the  day.  How 
different  the  practice  of  the  present  time. 

The  manner  in  which  inflammation  has  been  written 
upon,  has  made  it  a  subject  perfectly  bewilde*-ing  to  the 
general  reader,  and  from  its  being  associated  with  every 
thing  in  actual  practice,  no  idea  of  a  very  definite  kind 
with  regard  to  it  will  for  a  long  time  occur  to  his  mind. 
With  a  view  to  overcome  this  difficulty,  we  will  give  the 
most  simple  definition  of  the  term  inflammation.  "It  is  an 
uanatural  or  perverted  action  of  and  in  the  capillary 
blood  vessels  of  a  part ;  attended  with  redness,  throbbing, 
swelling,  pain,  heat  and  disorder  of  function,  with  change 
in  both  its  iluid  and  solid  constituents,  as  well  as  with 
more  or  less  general  disturbance  of  the  system."  The  ex- 
tent to  which  structures  in  a  state  of  inflammation  will 
swell,  varies  considerably,  depending  upon  the  vital  and 
piiysical  characters  of  the  tissue  involved.  Muscular 
tissue  becomes  very  much  swollen,  while,  on  the  other 
hand,  horny  and  cartilaginous  tissues  swell  but  little,  in 
consequence  of  their  low  state  of  vitality.  It  must  be  re- 
membered that  it  requires  an  assemblage  of  the  above 
conditions  to  constitute  inflammation.  Swelling,  pain, 
heat  or  redness  alone  do  not  constitute  that  condition,  as 
either  may  occur  from  causes  independent  of  any  inflam- 
matory action  whatever. 

We   now    feel    prepared    to  proceed   with   our   remarks 


200 

upon  the  various  diseases  with  which  the  horse  is  afflicted, 
with  a  better  understanding:  reo^ardinof  the  interest  of  our 
readers,  than  we  would  have  done  had  we  passed  this 
subject  by  unnoticed. 

Capillaries. — The  blood  is  the  pabulum  from  whence 
is  elaborated  the  entire  organism,  as  well  as  the  source 
from  whence  are  derived  all  the  various  secretions  and 
excretions  of  the  system  ;  but,  in  order  that  these  pur- 
poses may  be  accomplished,  it  is  necessary  for  the  fluid  in 
question  to  be  circulated  through,  or  its  materials  brought 
in  contact  with  every  tissue  requiring  fresh  nutrition,  as 
well  as  through  the  various  secretory  and  excretory  or- 
gans. To  effectually  accomplish  this,  we  find  a  class  of 
structures  set  apart  and  adaiirably  adapted  in  every  way 
to  fulfil  the  purposes  required.  The  first  of  these  is  the 
heart  itself;  next  com.es  the  large  blood  conduits,  the  ar- 
teries, which  spring  from  the  former,  as  the  tree  springs 
from  the  earth ;  while  the  arteries  again  terminate  in  a 
series  of  vessels  of  wonderful  minuteness,  just  as  the 
boughs  of  a  tree  terminate  in  the  twigs.  These  minute 
vessels  are  denominated  capillaries.  These  capillaries 
ramify,  and  are  placed  in  the  most  intimate  relation  with 
every  tissue  throughout  the  body  within  whose  substance 
reproduction  and  decay  are  in  perpetual  operations,  as 
well  as  with  those  organs  whose  duty  it  is  to  furnish  or 
sepaiate  the  secretions  and  excretions  already  referred  to. 
Each  tissue  selects  from  the  common  pabulum — the  blood 
— thus  sent  to  it,  the  peculiar  principle  it  requires  to  sup- 
port its  own  life   and  integrity. 

The  usual  terminations  of  inflammation  are  resolution, 
mortification,  suppuration,  ulceration,  hemorrhage,  effu- 
sion,    hepatization,    and     ossification.     By     resohitt'on    is 


ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE.  201 

meant  the  state  of  the  tissues  after  their  recovery  from 
the  effects  of  inflammation. 

MoRTiFEOATiOxX  is  loss  of  Vitality  or  death  of  the  tissues 
involved. 

Suppuration. — A  collection  of  purulent  matter,  which 
receives  the  name  of  abscess. 

Ulceration. — A  purulent  solution  of  continuity  of  the 
soft  parts  arising  from  loss  of  substance. 

Hemorrhage  occurs  as  a  direct  or  indirect  consequence 
of  inflammation,  from  ulceration  penetrating  through  the 
coats  of  an  artery. 

Effusion. — An  exudation  of  serum,  watery  accumula- 
tions, as  in  dropsy. 

Hepatization. — Conversion  of  a  texture  into  a  substance 
like  liver. 

Ossiification.  —  Formation  of  bone  —  change  of  soft 
structures  into  bony  ones. 

The  account  we  give  is  necessarily  brief;  but  we  trust 
it  is  sufficient  to  furnish  the  reader  with  a  clear  conception 
of  the  matter  in  hand,  and  in  turn  enable  him  to  clearly 
comprcliond  that  which  is  to  follow. 

DISEASES  OF  THE  MOUTH-LAMPASS. 

All  young  animals,  during  the  period  of  dentition,  have 
a  fulness  or  swelling  of  the  gums  and  bars,  or  roof  of 
the  mouth.  In  many  (Jolts  it  occasions  but  little  or  no 
inconvenience,  while  in  others  the  pain  is  so  great  as  to 
interfere  with  their  feeding.  When  this  condition  exists, 
do  not  resort  to  the  barbarous  practice  of  burning  with  a 
red  hot  iron,  but  act  humanely.  Lance  the  bars  with 
your  pocket  knife,  if  you  have  nothing  better,  as  your 
family  physician  would  lance  the  gums  of  your  child  un- 


202  THE   HORSE   OWXER's 

der  similar  circumstances,  and  in  a  few  days  the  animal 
will  feed  as  usual. 

BAGS,  OR  WASHERS. 

These  are  soft,  puffy  swellings  of  the  lining  membrane 
of  the  mouth,  caused  by  the  bit  bruising  the  parts  in 
reining.  If  inconvenient  to  the  animal,  they  may  be  re- 
moved by  cutting  oif  a  portion  of  the  swollen  parts  with 
a  pair  of  scissors  or  a*  knife,  after  which  apply  a  little  alum- 
water,  or  equal  parts  of  tincture  of  myrrh  and  water,  to  the 
wound,  two  or  three  times  a  day. 

SORE  MOUTH. 

This  occurs  from  the  same  causes,  and  is  situated  usu- 
ally at  the  angles  of  the  mouth.  Equal  parts  of  tincture 
of  myrrh,  tincture  of  aloes,  and  water,  is  the  best  applica- 
tion we  can  make. 

UNEVEN  TEETH. 

The  molar  teeth  of  the  horse  very  frequently  become 
sharp  and  irregular,  interfering  with  mastication  to  such 
an  extent  as  to  cause  the  di<restive  oro^ans  to  become  im- 

o  o 

paired,  giving  rise  to  an  unhealthy  condition  of  the  system. 
At  times  the   insides  of  the  cheeks  become   lacerated  by 
their  sharp  edges,  causing  them  to  become  tumid  and  sore. 
These  cases  can  only  be  remedied  by  the  use  of  the  horse- 
rasp,  an  instrument  made  for  the  purpose. 
WOLF  TEETH. 
These  are  two  small  teeth  which  make  their  appearance 
immediately  in  front  of  the  upper  molar  teeth,  in  all  colts 
at  some  period  from  the  first  to  the  fifth  year.     It  is  sup- 
posed by  very  many  horsemen  that  they  exert  an   evil  in- 
fluence over  the  eyes  of  the  horse.     My  experience  does 
not  prove  the  fact,  and  I  cannot  reconcile  my  mind  to  be- 
lieve  that  they,  natural   teeth,   should   be   placed  in  the 


ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE.  203 

months  of  all  colts,  if  they  were  injurious  to  the  eyes  or 
any  other  organs  of  the  body.  If  you  wish  them  removed, 
the  best  plan  is  to  extract  them  with  a  pair  of  dentist's 
forceps.  In  knocking  them  out,  the  roots  are  frequently 
left  behind,  and  of  course  your  object  is  not  accomplished. 
CARIES  OP  THE  TEETH. 

Caries,  or  decay  of  the  teeth  of  horses,  is  a  disease  of 
frequent  occurrence.  The  silence  of  veterinary  writers 
upon  the  subject  has  caused  it  to  be  overlooked  by  those 
having  the  care  of  that  useful  animal,  and  the  symptoms 
in  consequence,  have  been  confounded  with  those  of  other 
diseases. 

Symptoms. — Occasionally  we  have  a  fetid  breath,  fetid 
discharge  from  one  nostril,  a  wheezing  in  the  head,  food 
improperly  masticated,  passing  away  undigested,  quid- 
ding,  drowsing,  hide-bound,  staring  coat,  tucked  up  belly, 
tossing  the  head,  stopping  short  on  the  road,  shaking  his 
head  and  starting  on  again,  and  at  times  becoming  almost 
unmanageable.  These  symptoms  do  not  all  occur  in  the 
same  animal ;  one  appearing  drowsy,  requiring  the  whip  to 
urge  him  on,  while  another,  at  times,  is  wild  and  frantic 
with  pain,  taking  the  bit,  and  becoming  troublesome  to 
manage,  occasionally  running  away.  Some  of  those 
symptoms  occur  in  other  diseases  ;  bat  we  should  not  over- 
look the  teeth  in  our  examination  when  any  of  the  above 
symptoms  appear.  The  only  remedy  is  the  extraction  of 
the  diseased  teeth. 

DISTEMPER. 

All  catarrhal  affections  are  classed  under  one  general 
head,  namely,  distemper,  by  horse  owners  generally;  a 
common  cold,  sore  throat,  influenza,  bronchitis,  and  sever- 
al others  are  regarded  as  distempers.     We   will   endeav- 


204  THE   HOESE   OWNER's 

or  to  make  the  distinction  in  such  a  manner  that  each 
form  of  disease  may  be  readily  discovered,  and  the  prop- 
er remedies  applied.  Distemper,  as  we  should  under- 
stand it,  is  the  mildest  form  of  catarrhal  affections.  A 
common  cold,  for  instance,  is  an  inflammation  of  the  lining 
membrane  of  the  nose,  causing  a  secretion  of  mucus,  which 
is  more  or  less  abundently  discharged  from  the  nostrils, 
in  severe  cases  the  inflammation  extending  down  the  trachea^ 
or  windpipe,  to  the  bronchial  tubes,  and  sometimes  to  the 
lungs,  producing  diseases,  which  are  classed  under  different 
heads,  and  often  requiring  different  treatment. 

Treatment.— Oil  of  origanum,  1  ounce;  oil  cedar,  1 
ounce;  tincture  cantharides,  1  ounce;  olive  oil,  4  ounces; 
shake  well  and  bathe  the  throat  and  glands  morning  and 
evening  for  six  days ;  rub  in  well  with  the  hand  ;  he  will 
throw  out  freely,  and  the  cure  is  performed. 
SORE  THROAT. 

This  is  usually  one  of  the  first  indications  of  catarrh, 
and  when  confined  to  that  portion  of  the  throat  at  the  an- 
gle of  the  jaws,  it  is  termed  laryngitis.  The  symptoms  of 
this  disease  are  well  marked :  the  head  is  stifif  and  if  the 
throat  is  rubbed  or  pressed  upon,  coughing  is  excited ;  the 
animal  manifests  difficulty  in  swallowing,  and  frequently 
considerable  salvia  collects  in  the  mouth. 

Treatment.  —  Apply  strong  mustard  made  into  a 
paste  with  vinegar,  to  the  throat,  aud  rub  it  well  in  ;  or 
linseed  oil,  two  parts,  witTi  spirits  of  hartshorn,  one  part 
will  answer  a  good  purpose.  Give  upon  the  tongue  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  powdered  saltpetre  twice  a  day. 
STRANGLES. 

This  is  a  more  severe  form  of  laryngitis,  involving 
the  glands  of  the    throat,   causing  a   very  great  swelling, 


ILLUSTRATED   GL^DE.  205 

which  often  threatens  suffocation ;  the  respiration  becomes 
clistmbed,  the  breathing  h\b  ;rious,  and  can  be  heard  at 
a  considerable  distance  ;  the  animal  sweats  from  his  con- 
vulsive efforts  to  breathe,  and  if  not  relieved,  dies  a  vio- 
lent death.  Here  the  aid  of  the  qualified  veterinary  sur- 
geon is  absolutely  required,  as  there  are  few  persons  com- 
petent to  perform  the  operation  of  tracheotomy,  that  is 
opening  the  windpipe  to  admit  air  into  the  lungs.  This, 
early  performed,  frequently  saves  the  animal's  life. 

Treatment.  —  Poultice  the  throat  well  with  flaxseed 
meal,  steam  the  nostrils  two  or  three  times  a  day,  and  as 
soon  as  the  swelling  under  the  jaws  becomes  soft,  it  should 
be  lanced.  When  relief  is  once  obtained,  the  further 
treatment  of  these  cases  is  the  same  as  for  ordinary  sore 
throat. 

INFLUENZA. 

Spring  and  fall  are  the  seasons  most  productive  of  epi- 
demic catarrh.  Qne  year  it  assumes  a  mild  form,  the  next, 
perhaps  a  most  malignant  one.  Influenza  is  known  to 
horsemen  under  the  common  name  of  "  pink-eye  dis- 
temper." 

Symptoms. — These  vary  very  considerably  in  different 
^animals.  The  usual  or  leading  symptoms  are ;  Slight 
watery  or  thin  mucus  discharges  from  the  nose,  eyelids 
presenting  a  reddish  or  orange-red  appearance,  matter 
collects  in  the  corners  of  the  eyes,  pulse  feeble,  great  de- 
bility, as  shown  by  the  quick,  feeble  action  of  the  heart — 
a  symptom  rarely  absent — membrane  of  nose  much  red- 
dened, sore  throat  and  cough ;  occasionally  the  feet  become 
fevered,  as  in  founder,  causing  much  stiffness,  which  may 
be  easily  mistaken  for  that  disease. 

Treatment. — This  being  a  typhoid  disease ;  requires  a 


206 

sustaining  treatment,  or  our  success  will  be  very  doubtful. 
In  the  early  stage  of  the  disease  give  the  first  two  days,  ten 
drops  of  tincture  of  aconite,  or  bryonia,  in  a  little  water, 
every  six  hours ;  after  which  give  in  a  pail  of  water,  to 
drink  once  a  day,  one  ounce  of  spirits  of  nitre,  or  two 
drachms  of  extract  of  belladonna ;  and  give  in  the  feed, 
three  times  a  day,  one  of  the  following  powders  :  Gentian 
root,  saltpetre  and  anise  seed,  of  each  one  ounce — sulphate 
of  quinine,  one  drachm  ;  mix  and  divide  into  eight  pow- 
ders; or,  powdered  cinchonia  and  powdered  quassia,  of 
each,  two  ounces,  powdered  anise  seed,  one  ounce ;  mix 
and  divide  into  four  powders.  The  throat  should  be  bathed 
in  mustard  and  vinegar,  or  with  linseed  oil  three  ounces, 
spirits  of  hartshorn  one  ounce,  wixed  together.  No  hay 
or  corn  should  be  given  but  scalded  oats  and  wheat  bran, 
with  linseed  tea  or  oatmeal  gruel,  should  constitute  the 
diet ;  a  few  carrots  would  be  very  good,  and  above  all, 
good  nursing  is  very  desirable. 

BRONCHITIS. 

This  is  an  inflammation  of  the  bronchial  tubes,  as  its 
name  implies,  the  air  tubes  of  the  lungs.  It  is  usually 
preceded  by  a  shivering  fit,  the  mouth  is  hot  and  full  of 
saliva,  the  throat  is  sore,  and  if  pressed  upon  excites  a 
painful  cough,  discharge  from  the  nose,  appetite  lost,  pulse 
quick,  and  respiration  labored,  eyelids  and  nostrils  red- 
dened ;  on  applying  the  ear  to  the  side,  a  gurgling  sound 
is  heard. 

Treatment.  Give  the  following  ball  in  the  early  stage 
of  the  disease  :  Nitrate  of  potassa,  pulverized  digitalis  and 
tartrate  of  antimony,  of  each  half  a  drachm,  molasses 
sufficient  to  make  the  ball.     If  the  fever  is  not  broken  in 


ILLUSTEATED   GUIDE.  207 

twelve  hours,  repeat  the  ball.  As  soon  as  the  desired  ob- 
ject is  obtained,  give  one  of  the  following  powders  twice 
a  day,  in  a  sloppy  mass;  Nitrate  of  potassa  one  and  a 
half  ounces,  nitrate  of  soda,  six  ounces,  divide  into  six 
powders  ;  or  give  the  following  :  Extract  of  belladonna 
one  drachm,  spirit,  of  nitre,  one  ounce,  solution  of  acetate 
of  ammonia,  four  ounces,  in  half  a  pint  of  water,  as  a 
drench.  The  throat  and  sides  should  be  blistered ;  the 
ordinary  fly  blister,  made  thin  with  turpentine,  is  very 
good,  or  mustard  mixed  wath  equal  parts  of  water  and 
spirits  of  hartshorn.  Kither  of  the  above,  when  used, 
should  be  well  rubbed  in  with  the  hand. 

NASAL  GLEET. 

This  is  a  chronic  discharge,  from  one  or  both  nostrils, 
of '^  whitish  muco-purulent  matter,  the  result  usually  of 
neglected  catarrh.  The  general  health  of  the  animal  does 
not  seem  to  suffer;  he  looks  well,  feeds  well,  and  works 
well ;  yet  we  have  this  discharge,  which  is  caused  by  weak- 
ness in  the  secretory  vessels  of  the  lining  membrane  of  the 
nose.  The  successful  treatment  in  all  cases  where  this 
disorder  has  existed,  has  been  on  the  tonic  principle ; 
bleeding  and  purging  are  positively  injurious.  Give  one 
of  the  following  powders  night  and  morning;  Sesqui- 
chloride  of  iron,  two  ounces,  powdered  cinnamon  one  ounce, 
mix  and  divide  into  four  powders;  or  carbonate  of  iron' 
pulverized  gentian  and  pulverized  quassia,  of  each  one 
ounce,  divide  into  four  powders ;  or  nux  vomica  pul- 
verized, one-half  ounce,  linseed  meal  two  ounces,  divide 
into  eight  powders.  Another  good  preparation  is  muriate 
of  barytes  one-half  ounce,  linseed  meal  one  ounce,  divide 
into  eight  powders. 


208  THE   HORSE   OWNER's 

PNEUMONIA. 

This  disease  is  known  to  horsemen  as  lung  fever.  It  is 
either  inflammatory  or  congestive,  arising  from  various 
causes — as  high  feeding,  badl}''  ventilated  stables,  violent 
exercise,  or  sudden  changes  from  heat  to  cold.  In  the 
congestive  stage  there  is  no  pulse  to  be  found,  and  on  ap- 
plying the  ear  to  the  side,  no  sound  is  heard ;  cold  sweats 
bedew  the  body,  the- respiration  is  labored,  eyes  wild  in 
their  expression,  legs  cold,  the  animal  appears  dull  and 
stupid,  and  is  with  difficulty  made  to  move;  he  does  not  lie 
down.  In  these  cases  medicines  are  not  required;  in  fact, 
they  often  do 'more  injury  than  good;  the  free  and  speedy 
use  of  the  lancet  is  our  only  hope,  and  a  pure  air  is  of  the 
greatest  importance;  a  pail  of  cold  water  should  be  placed 
before  the  animal,  but  no  food  should  be  given  until  the 
animal  is  relieved ;  and  then  only  mashes  of  wheat  bran. 
Under  this  treatment  he  will  speedily  recover,  or  inflam- 
mation of  the  lungs  will  be  established.  The  pulse  now 
becomes  quick,  the  mouth  hot,  legs  cold,  head  hanging  in 
or  under  the  manger,  appetite  lost ;  on  applying  the  ear  to 
the  side,  a  crepitating  or  crackling  sound  is  heard;  respira" 
tion  quick ;  the  treatment  here  must  be  prompt  and  ener- 
getic ;  blisters  to  the  sides,  such  as  previously  spoken  of, 
must  be  used,  and  give  internally  two  ounces  of  spirits  of 
nitre  in  half  a  pint  of  water;  follow  this  in  two  hours  with 
ten  drops  of  tincture  of  aconite  in  water,  to  be  given  every 
six  hours  until  relief  is  obtained;  or  give  instead  one  of 
the  following  powders;  Tartrate  of  antimony,  pulverized 
digitalis,  of  each  one  drachm ;  nitrate  of  potassa,  one 
ounce;  mix  and  divide  into  eight  powders;  give  one  every 
four  hours  upon  the  tongue.  Injections  of  soap  and  water 
are  very  useful  in  these  cases.     The  legs  should  be  hand- 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  209 

rubbed,  and    stiuinlated  with  mustard  or  cayenne  pepper, 
and  then  wrapped  in  woolen  bandages ;  a  pure  atmo.^phere 
and  good  nursing  are  very  necessary. 
PLEUBISY. 

This  is  an  inflammation  of  the  lining  membrane  of  the 
chest  and  covering  of  the  lungs.  Tlie  symptoms  are  : 
uneasiness,  pawing,  looking  at  the  sides,  pulse  quick,  pain 
or  pressure  over  the  ribs,  body  hot,  lying  down  but  rising 
quickly  The  same  treatment  as  in  inflammation  of  the 
lungs  is  called  for  ;  but  under  no  circumstances  should 
bleeding  be  resorted  to.  These  cases  are  very  apt  to  ter- 
minate   in  hydrothorax,   or 

DROPSY  OF  THE  CHEST. 

Symptoms — Breathing  short  and  quick,  legs  stiaddling, 
pulse  small  and  quick ;  breast,  belly,  and  sheath  swell, 
and  leave  the  mark  of  the  finger  when  pressed  upon ;  the 
animal  stands  until  he  dies.  The  treatment  of  this  dis- 
ease, as  a  general  thing,  is  not  very  satisfactory.  The  io- 
dide of  potassa,  in  half-drachm  doses,  three  times  a  day, 
has  proved  the  most  useful  medicine  in  such  cases,  in  con- 
nection with  setons  in  the  breast  and  sides. 

BROKEN  WIWD,  OR  HEAVES. 

This  disease  is  well  known  to  horsemen ;  so  we  will  con- 
tent ourselves  merely  by  giving  the  most  successful  reme- 
dies, which  for  the  most  part,  are  only  palliative.  Di- 
vide half  an  ounce  of  pulverized  digitalis  in  twenty  parts, 
and  give  one  part  night  and  morning  in  the  feed,  until 
gone ;  this  will  usually  allay  all  signs  of  the  disease  in 
two  weeks.  Or,  take  assafoetida,  two  drachms;  camphor, 
one  drachm  ;  mix  and  give  it  every  other  night  for  a 
week. 


210  THE   HORSE   OWNER's 

INFLAMMATION"  OF  THE  BOWELS. 

This  disease  may  appear  suddenly  or  it  may  be  slow  i^ 
coming  on.  The  symptoms  resemble  those  of  colic,  with 
which  disease  it  is  often  confounded.  The  pulse  is  our 
certain  guide  in  determining  the  character  of  the  dis- 
ease ;  when  that  is  full  and  natural,  or  nearly  so  there  is 
no  inflammation  ;  if  full,  strong  and  quick,  there  is  inflam- 
mation ;  other  symptoms  corresponding,  there  is  no  dif- 
ficulty in  determining  the  case.  In  colic,  the  symptoms 
of  pain  are  intermittent ;  in  inflammation  of  the  bowels, 
there  are  no  intermissions.  Other  symptoms  which  are 
present  in  both  diseases  are  pawing,  kicking  the  belly,  roll- 
ing and  tumbling  about,  sweating,  haggard  expression  of 
countenance,  looking  at  his  §ides,  etc.;  in  colic,  the  legs 
usually  are  warm;  in  inflammation  of  bowels  they  are 
cold. 

Treatment. — Bleed  freely  from  the  neck-vein,  and  give 
ten  drops  tincture  of  aconite  every  three  hours ;  apply 
blankets  saturated  with  hot  water  to  the  entire  body,  and 
keep  it  up  for  two  hours;  then  remove  the  wet  ones  and 
replace  them  with  dry  ones,  well-secured  with  a  body 
girth.  Injections  of  tobacco  smoke  are  very  useful  in 
these  cases,  when  not  convenient,  soap  and  water  will  ans- 
wer the  purpose.  No  food  of  any  kind  should  be  given 
for  at  least  foity-eight  hours. 

DIAKBHCEA. 

The  cause  of  this  disease  is  exposure  to  cold,  over  exer- 
tion, change  of  water,  over-doses  of  cathartic  medicine,  etc. 

Treatment. — Give  one  of  the  following  powders  every 
six  hours  until  the  bowels  are  checked  ;  powdered  opium, 
one  drachm ;  powdered  catechu,  two  drachms ;  prepared 
chalk,  one  ounce ;   mix  and  divide  into  four  powders. 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  211 

COLIC. 

This  disease — known  also  as  gripes,  cramp  and  fret — is 
either  spasmodic  or  flatulent.  Spasmodic  colic  is  a  spas- 
modic contraction  of  the  muscular  coats  of  the  intestines, 
causing  griping  pains,  etc.,  (see  inflammation  of  bowels.) 
Flatulent  colic  is  an  accumulation  of  gas  in  the  stomach 
and  intestines,  generated  by  fermentation  in  the  stomach, 
causing  swelling  of  the  abdomen,  and  sometimes  rupture 
of  the  stomach. 

Treatment. — For  spasmodic  colic,  give  one  ounce  tinc- 
ture opium  and  one  ounce  of  sulphuric  ether  in  half  a  pint 
of  water ;  this  should  be  repeated  in  half  an  hour  if  relief 
is  not  obtained.  Or,  give  the  following :  tincture  of 
opium,  one  ounce;  aromatic  spirits  of  ammonia,  half  an 
ounce ;  extract  of  belladonna,  one  drachm ;  water,  one 
pint;  mix.  In  flatulent  colic  give  chlorate  of  potash, 
one-half  ounce ;  sulphuric  ether,  one-half  ounce  ;  tincture 
of  aloes,  three  ounces  ;  water  one  pint ;  mix  and 
drench. 

WORMS. 

Thousands  of  animals  die  annually  from  the  ravages 
of  these  pests,  without  the  true  cause  being  suspected; 
especially  is  this  the  case  in  the  young  of  the  mare,  cow 
sheep  and  pig.  Many  varieties  of  these  parasites  belong 
to  our  domestic  animals  which  have  not  been  mentioned 
by  veterinary  writers;  they  are  found  in  every  tissue  of 
the  body,  even  in  the  blood.  The  symptoms  of  worms 
have  been  but  very  imperfectly  described  by  writers 
upon  the  subject.  In  an  experience  of  many  years,  I  have 
observed  the  following  symptoms,  but  not  all  in  the  same 
animal.  Each  variety  of  worm  has  its  characteristic 
symptoms,   namely :    in   bots,  we  rarely  have  loss  of  con- 


212  THE   HORSE   OWNEE's 

dition,  but  when  the  hots  become  troublesome,  colicky- 
pains,  gasping,  quickened  respiration,  staring  or  hag- 
gard expression  of  the  eye,  with  a  strong  tendency  to  in- 
flammation of  the  bowels  will  be  observed.  Bots  are 
rarely  troublesome  except  when  passing  away  in  their 
regular  manner,  which  occurs  from  May  to  August 
in  each  year.  In  most  other  varieties  of  worms  the 
symptoms  are  debility,  feebleness,  sluggish  movements, 
emaciation,  staring  coat,  hide-bouud,  and  skin  covered 
with  scurvy  blotches,  rigidity  of  loins,  small  and  feeble 
but  slightly  accelerated  pulse,  respiration  slow,  tucked-up 
belly,  a  peculiar  pallid  appearance  of  the  lining  of  the 
lips,  (a  certain  indication),  irregular,  capricious,  but  per- 
sistent appetite,  badly  digested  faeces,  agitation  of  heart 
and  tail ;  and  where  the  fundament  worms  exist,  a  whitish 
or  yellowish-white  substance  will  be  found  about  the  fun- 
dament, indicated  also  by  rubbing  the  tail. 

The  treatment  for  worms  has  been  attended  with  much 
uncertainty  heretofore,  and  is  to  the  present  day,  with 
practitioners  generally.  Those  on  which  most  dependence 
has  been  placed  are ;  calomel,  one  half  drachm  ;  tartrate 
of  antimony,  one  half  drachm ;  linseed  meal,  one  half 
ounce;  mix  and  give  at  night.  Or,  iron  filings,  two 
drachms;  common  salt,  one-half  ounce;  powdered  savin, 
one  drachm  ;  linseed  meal  one-half  ounce  ;  mix  and  give 
every  night  for  a  week.  Or,  assafoetida,  two  drachm? ; 
calomel,  one  and  a  half  drachms;  savin,  one  and  a  half 
drachms ;  oil  male  fern,  thirty  drops ;  linseed  meal,  two 
drachms ;  mix  with  molasses  and  give  at  night.  Or,  cal- 
omel, one  drachm ;  powdered  wormwood,  one  ounce ; 
honey  sufficient  to  make  the  ball ;  give  at  night.  Follow 
either  of    the  above  with  the    following  ball :    barbadoes 


ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE.  213 

aloes  one  ounce  ;  pnlverized  gentian,  two  clrachmR  ;  pnl- 
verized  ginger,  one  draclim  ;  water  sufficient  to  make  the 
ball.  Another  remedy  highly  recommended  is  the  follow- 
ing. Barbadoes  aloes,  six  drachms;  male  fern, iour  ounces; 
spirits  turpentine,  two  ounces ;  mix  and  divide  into  six 
balls  ;  give  one  three  times  a  day. 

RETENTION  OP  UHINE. 

This  is  known  by  frequent  but  unsuccessful  efforts  to  stale. 
In  some  animals  it  arises  from  a  dislike  to  spatter  their 
legs  in  voiding  the  water  ;  hence  a  horse  will  frequently 
retain  it  in  the  bladder  until  the  litter  is  shaken  up  under 
him,  when  he  will  at  once  relieve  himself.  When  the  re- 
sult is  spasm  of  the  neck  of  the  bladder,  an  instrument  is 
used  called  a  catheter,  made  expressly  for  the  purpose  ; 
this  is  passed  up  the  urinary  passage  to  the  bladder,  when 
the  water  will  flow  freely  and  give  instant  relief. 
PROFUSE  STALING. 

The  causes  of  this  disease  are,  the  improper  use  of  diu- 
retic medicines,  as  saltpetre,^  rosin,  etc.  Unwholesome 
food  will  sometimes  produce  it.  Treatment :  Give  one  of 
the  following  balls  every  night — powdered  opium,  one- 
half  ounce  ;  powdered  kino,  one  ounce ;  prepared  chalk, 
one  ounce ;  mix  with  molasses  and  make  six  balls. 
STONES  IN  THE  BLADDER. 

These  may  exist  a  long  time  in  the  bladder  before  any 
symptoms  arise  indicating  their  presence.  The  first  symp- 
toms of  stone  are,  frequent  efforts  to  urinate,  voiding 
small  quantities,  usually  of  a  thick  whitish  color;  as  the 
stones  increase  in  size,  the  symptoms  become  more  ag. 
gvavated,  colicky  pains  are  indicated,  rendering  it  diffi- 
cult to  distinguish  the  difference  ;  the  animal  paws,  kicks 
at  his  belly,  lies  down,    rolls,    and    gets   up   quickly.     In 


214  THE   HORSE   OWNER's 

some  cases,  these  obstructions  are  dissolved  by  the  admin- 
istration of  muriatic  acid,  two  drachms,  in  a  pail  of  water 
once  a  day.  When  this  fails,  an  operation  for  the  remov- 
al of  the  stone  is  the  only  remedy.  This  is  not,  compara- 
tively, a  dangerous  operation,  in  the  hands  of  a  skillful 
surgeon. 

QUITTER. 

This  is  a  formation'  of  pus  between  the  hoof  aud  the 
soft  structures  within  ;  a  sore  at  the  coronet  or  upper 
part  of  the  foot,  which  at  first  is  a  hard,  smooth  tumor, 
but  soon  becomes  soft,  and  breaks,  discharging  quantities 
of  pus.  Treatment :  poultice  the  foot  for  several  days  with 
flax-seed  meal.  As  soon  as  the  hoof  becomes  soft,  cut 
away  all  loose  portions,  but  no  more,  and  inject  with  a 
syringe,  either  of  the  following,  once  a  day  :  Chloride  of 
zinc,  2  dr.,  dissolved  in  one  pint  of  water  ;  or  sulphate  of 
zinc,  1^  dr.,  dissolved  in  one  pint  of  water;  or  nitrate  of 
silver,  2  dr.,  in  a  pint  of  water;  or  glycerine  may  be  used 
with  advantage.  Before  using  the  wash  have  the  foot 
well  cleaned  with  castile  soap  and  water. 
THRUSH. 

This  is  a  disease  of  the  frog,  causing  a  discharge  of 
matter  from  its  cleft  or  division,  occasionally  causing 
lameness.  The  treatment  is  simple  and  effective :  Wash 
the  feet  well  with  soap  and  water,  and  sprinkle  a  small 
quantity  of  pulverized  sulphate  of  copper  in  the  cleft,  and 
secure  it  by  pressing  a  little  raw  cotton  down  upon  it  in 
such  a  manner  as  to  keep  out  the  dirt.  In  two  or  three 
days  repeat,  if  necessary.  It  rarely  requires  a  second 
dressing. 

CANKER. 

Tbis  is  a  more  aggravated  form  of  thrush,   often  prov- 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  215 

ing  very  troublesome  to  manage.  It  is  a  continuation  of 
the  thrush  between  the  horny  tVog  and  the  internal  struc- 
tures of  the  foot,  causing  separation  between  them. 
Treatment :  cut  away  all  the  horn  which  has  been  sepa- 
rated from  the  soft  structures  of  the  foot,  and  apply  the 
following  ointment:  Take  equal  parts  of  pine  tar  and  lard, 
melt  over  a  slow  fire,  and  add  suphuric  acid  very  slowly 
until  ebullition  ceases ;  or  use  collodion,  half  an  ounce  ; 
castor  oil,  one  ounce  ;  mix  and  apply  to  the  parts.  The 
foot  must  be  protected  from  dirt  by  a  bandage  or  a  leath- 
ern boot. 

SCRATCHES. 
This  disease  is  well  known  to  all  horsemen.  Treatment : 
Wash  the  parts  well  with  castile  soap  and  water,  and 
when  dry  apply  once  a  day  the  collodion  and  castor  oil 
recommended  in  canker  ;  or  use  a  saturated  solution  of 
the  bichloride  of  mercury  once  a  week,  but  not  oftener, 
or  mischief  may  arise  in  consequence  of  a  too  free  use. 

GREASE  HEELS. 

This  is  a  white,  offensive,  greasy  discharge  from  the 
heels  of  the  horse.  The  skin  becomes  hot,  tender  and 
swollen  ;  the  acrid  character  of  the  discharge  often  caus- 
es large  portions  of  the  skin  to  slough  away,  leaving  an 
ugly  sore  behind.  Treatment :  open  the  bowels  with  the 
following  ball:  Barbadoes  aloes,  1  oz.;  pulverized  gentian 
root,  2  dr.;  pulverized  ginger,  1  dr.;  water  sufficient  to 
make  the  ball.  Wash. the  parts  well,  and  poultice  for 
two  or  three  days  with  the  following  :  Flax  seed  meal 
mixed  with  a  solution  of  2  dr.  sulphate  of  zinc  to  a  pint 
of  water,  after  which  keep  clean  and  bathe  frequently 
with  glycerine,  or  the  solution  of  zinc,  or  a  solution  of  the 
chloride  of  lime  may  be  used  ;  or  the  bichloride  of  mercu- 


216  THE   HORSE   OWNEr's 

ry  may  be  used  in  inveterate   cases  with  good    results,  pro- 
vided it  be  not  repeated  oftener  than  once  a  week. 
WATEH  FARCY. 

Anasarca,  as  it  is  technically  called,  is  of  two  kinds ; 
one  occurring  in  young  animals,  from  inflammatory  action, 
the  other  in  old  horses  from  general  debility.  It  is  known 
by  swelling  of  the  legs,  belly,  sheath,  and  other  parts.  In 
young  animals  there  is-  heat,  and  pain  on  pressure  on  the 
swollen  parts ;  in  old  horses  there  is  no  pain  on  pressure, 
but  the  marks  of  the  finger  are  left  behind. 

Treatment. — Give  one  of  the  following  powders  night 
and  morning  in  the  feed  :  Sulphate  of  iron,  2  oz.;  nitrate 
of  potassa,  1  oz.;  pulverized  gentian,  1  oz.;  pulverized  gin- 
ger, 6  drs.;  anise  seed,  ground,  ^  oz.;  mix  and  divide  into 
eight  powders  ;  or  sulp'iate  of  copper;  nitrate  of  potassa, 
and  pulverized  gentian,  of  each  one  ounce;  pulverized 
ginger,  ^  oz.;  anise  seed,  ground,  5  drs.;  mix  and  divide 
into  eight  powders.  Hand  rubbing  and  moderate  exercise 
every  day  are  very  important,  with  a  pure  atmosphere  in 
your  stable. 

FOUNDER. 

This  disease  occurs  generally  in  the  horse  with  hard 
brittle,  or,  contracted  hoofs,  in  consequence  of  their  inabil- 
ity to  yield  to  the  weight  of  the  animal.  In  this  con- 
dition they  wait  for  the  exciting  or  immediate  cause  to 
develop  the  disease.  These  causes  are  a  hard  drive  upon 
n  hard  road,  watering  when  warm,  particularly  when 
jjump  or  spring  water  is  used,  standing  in  a  draught  of 
air,  etc. 

Symptoms. — Fore  feet  thrown  forward,  resting  upon  the 
heels ;  weight  of  the  body  thrown  back  upon  the  hind 
legs  ;  front  feet   hot   and    tender,    pulse  full  and  quick  ; 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  217 

respiration  accelarated  ;  the  animal  in    very    severe    cases 
seeks  relief  by  lying  down. 

Treatment. — If  the  animal  is  in  full  condition,  bleed 
freely  from  the  feet,  and  give  the  following  :  Barbadoes 
aloes,  G  drs,;  croton  oil,  6  drops ;  pulverized  ginger,  1  dr.; 
pulverixed  gentian,  2  drs.;  mix  with  water  in  form  of  a 
ball ;  foment  the  feet  well  with  hot  water,  and  then  poul- 
tice with  flaxseed  meal  for  several  days  ;  give  in  the  water, 
every  six  hours,  extract  of  belladonna,  1  dr.  Under  this 
treatment  the  worst  cases  usually  recover  in  one  week's 
time  if  taken  in  hand  early. 

PQMIOSD  FEET. 

This  disease  is  known  to  horsemen  as  falling  of  the  sole, 
and  is  the  result  of  neglected  founder.  Careful  shoeing, 
so  as  to  protect  the  sole,  is  all  that  can  be  done  in  these 
cases. 

WAVICULAR-JOINT  LAMISTESS. 

Coffin  joint  lameness,  as  it  is  commonly  called,  is  one 
of  very  common  occurrence,  and  the  symptoms  often  so 
obscure  as  to  mislead  the  ordinary  observer.  This  dis- 
ease generally  is  preceded  for  months  before  lameness  is 
observed,  by  pointing;  that  is,  by  advancing  one  foot 
whenever  the  animal  is  at  rest.  The  degrees  of  lameness 
varies  considerably  in  different  animals.  In  one  case  it 
is  seen  in  the  first  half-mile's  travel  only  ;  in  others  it  con- 
tinues for  a  mile  or  two,  and  then  disappears ;  in  some  it 
continues  during  a  journey,  but  as  the  animal  gets  warmed 
up,  it  is  not  so  severe  as  on  the  start.  In  some  cases  it 
disappears  for  weeks  together ;  and  then  shows  itself  again, 
gradually  increasing  in  intensity  until  it  becomes  a  per- 
manent lameness.  In  the  early  stages  of  the  disease  there 
is  no  heat  to  be  discovered  about  the   foot,  no  swelling,  no 


218  THE   HORSE   OWNER'S 

pain  on  pressing  the  heels;  the  animal  picks  up  the  foot 
nicely,  but  drops  it  tenderly,  striking  the  toe  first  ;  the 
shoe,  therefore,  is  worn  considerably  at  the  toe  and  very 
little  at  the  heels.  Should  a  horse  be  slightly  lame  in 
both  feet,  the  symptoms  are  still  more  obscure  and  diffi- 
cult to  diagnose.  The  action  of  the  horse  now  becomes 
changed  ;  he  no  longer  bends  his  knees  with  the  same  free- 
dom as  before;  he  steps  short,  the  heels  scarcely  touching 
the  ground,  which  is  a  good  indication  of  the  disease. 

Treatment. — In  recent  cases,  the  application  of  a  prop- 
er blister  is  usually  successful ;  the  common  fly  blister, 
thinned  with  spirits  of  turpentine,  answers  a  very  good 
purpose  ;  or  the  following  which  must  be  used  with  great 
caution  to  prevent  its  leaving  a  blemish  behind;  pow- 
dered cantharides,  two  drachms,  oil  of  turpentine  two 
drachms,  powdered  euphorbium,  one  drachm,  oil  of  origa- 
num, one  drachm,  hog's  lard,  two  ounces.  Mix  all  togeth- 
er. This  should  not  be  repeated  after  the  blister  acts.  In 
cases  of  long  standing,  a  seton  put  through  the  frog  will 
often  be  of  great  service  in  restoring  the  animal  to  use- 
fulness. 
OSSIFICATION  OF  THE  LATERAL  CARTILAGES. 

These  cartilages  are  two  grizly  projections  or  wings  at- 
tached to  the  coffin  bone  at  the  heels,  and  may  readily  be 
felt  above  the  hoof  From  contraction,  corns  and  other 
causes,  these  elastic  bodies  often  become  changed  from 
gristle  to  bone  in  consequence  of  inflammation,  leaving  the 
horse  with  thick  heels  and  a  short,  tender  tread  in  trav- 
eling. The  treatment  in  these  cases  is  only  palliative  in 
its  confirmed  state ;  the  same  treatment  as  for  navicular- 
joint  lameness  is  proper. 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  2l9 

SHOULDER  STRAIN". 

This  arises  from  slipping,  severe  blows,"  falling  in  the 
shafts,  etc.  The  symptoms  are  all  well  marked.  The  an-- 
imal,  instead  Jof  raising  the  foot,  drags  the  toe  on  the 
ground  in  walking;  on  making  a  lever  of  the  leg,  by  bring- 
ing it  forward,  the  animal  manifests  much  pain;  these  usu- 
ally are  positive  symptoms. 

Treatment. — Bleed  freely  from  the  Plantar  vein,  run- 
ning down  upon  the  inside  of  the  front  legs.  Foment  the 
shoulders  well  with  hot  water  if  the  case  is  a  recent  one. 
If  of  long  standing,  a  seton  will  be  more  effective.  The 
following  liniment  will  be  a  useful  application;  Sweet  oil, 
one  pint,  spirits  of  hartshorn,  three  ounces,  spirits  of  tur- 
pentine, two  ounces,  mix  all  together ;  shake  well  before 
using.  Or,  alcohol,  one  pint,  spirits  of  camphor,  tincture 
of  myrrh,  castile  soap,  of  each  one  ounce;  mix  all  together; 
or,  oil  of  turpentine  one  ounce,  tincture  of  opium  one 
ounce,  soap  liniment,  one  ounce,  tincture  of  capsicum  one 
drachm  ;  mix  all  together. 

CAPPED  HOCK. 

This  is  a  bruise  of  the  cap  or  point  of  the  hock  joint 
forming  a  serious  abscess. 

Treatment. — Apply  the  blister  recommended  in  coffin 
joint  lameness.  Tincture  of  iodine  or  iodine  ointment  is 
sometimes  useful. 

BONE  SPAVIN. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  common  causes  of  lameness  in 
the  hind  legs.  Spavin  arises j, from  strains,  sprains  or 
blows  upon  the  hock  joint,  causing  an  inflammatory  con- 
dition of  the  cartilaginous  cushions  which  cover  the  unit- 
ing surfaces  of  each  bone  or  of  the  ligaments  that  sur- 
round the  joint  and  bind  the  bones  together ;   sometimes 


220  -THE   HORSE   OWNEr's 

both  are  involved.  This  inflammatory  condition  of  the 
joint  may  be  considered  the  exciting  canse  of  spavin,  and, 
if  not  speeddy  removed,  spavin  soon  follows ;  the  synovi- 
al fluid,  commonly  called  juirtt-oil,  is  soon  absorbed,  the 
cartilages  of  the  joint  are  turned  to  bone,  which  unite  one 
with  the  other,  forming  one  solid  mass,  destroying  the 
mobility  of  the  parts  involved,  and  constituting  what  is 
technically  called  anchylosis  of  the  hock  joint.  This  union 
of  the  bones  is  not  always  general,  there  being  in  many 
cases  but  two,  three,  or  four  of  the  bones  involved.  When 
these  changes  are  confined  to  the  cartilages,  there  is  no 
external  enlargement ;  on  the  contrary,  when  the  liga- 
ments surrounding  the  joint  are  involved,  we  have  in  all 
cases  external  enlargement.  When  the  hock  receives  au 
injury,  the  course  of  treatment  usually  pursued  by  horse- 
men is  very  pernicious.  The  application  of  a  blister  to 
an  inflamed  surface  must  do  injury  by  increasing  the  in- 
flammation they  wish  to  abate,  and  in  many  cases  actu- 
ally producing  a  spavin  where  it  otherwise  would  not 
exist.  I  do  nat  deny  that  blisters  are  necessary  and  use- 
ful in  such  cases,  if  properly  applied;  but  the  idea  of  rub- 
bing blisters  on  an  inflamed  surface,  to  reduce  it,  is  like 
throwing  shavings  on  burning  coals  to  extinguish  them. 
The  educated  physician,  in  applying  a  blister,  does  it  so 
as  to  draw  the  inflammation  from  the  part  affected  to  a 
part  where  it  will  do  no  injury ;  otherwise,  it  had  better 
not  be  applied  at  all.  When  the  disease  has  advanced 
so  far  as  to  produce  alteration  of  structure  in  the  part, 
the  application  of  blisters  is  proper,  not  for  the  purpose 
of  curing  the  disease,  but  with  a  view  of  removing  the 
lameness,  by  increasing  the  inflammation,  thereby  caus- 
ing a   more  speedy  union  of   the  diseased  bones,  which 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  221 

when  perfect,  causes  the  animal  to  travel  sound.  The  se- 
ton  I  have  found  the  most  successful  in  long-standing 
cases.  In  the  early  stages,  that  is,  before  any  alteration 
of  structure  takes  place,  the  application  of  cold  water  to 
the  parts  will  often  abate  the  inflammation,  or  a  blister 
applied  above  or  below  the  hock  will  have  the  desired  ef- 
fect. Cooling  embrocations,  such  as  vinegar  and  water, 
are  also  good.  When  there  is  external  enlargement,  ac- 
tive blisters  should  be  applied  over  the  part.  Liquid 
blister  :  powdered  cvottn  seed,  ^  oz.,  powdered  cantharides, 
1  oz.,  oil  of  turpentine,  1  pt,,  olive  oil,  1  pt.;  mix  all  to- 
gether and  shake  well  before  using. 

EIWG-BONS. 

This  is  a  disease  precisely  like  spavin,  location  only 
giving  it  a  different  name.  The  same  alterations  in  struc- 
ture take  place,  the  same  termintions  follow,  and  the 
same  treatment  is  called  for.  Ring-bone,  unlike  spavin, 
rarely  occurs  without  enlargement.  I  have  never  known 
of  but  one  case  of  the  kind. 

SPLINT. 

This  is  a  bony  deposit  situated  between  the  cannon  and 
splint  bones,  well  known  to  all  horsemen,  rarely  causing 
lameness,  except  when  it  is  situated  so  as  to  interfere  with 
the  action  of  the  knee-joint,  or  at  the  lower  extremity  of 
the  splint  bone.  Few  horses  attain  the  age  of  eight  years 
without  having  them  ;  they  disappear  in  time  by  spread- 
ing over  a  greater  surface  of  bone,  becoming  flat  xypon  the 
surface,  giving  rise  to  the  opinion  often  indulged  in  by 
horsomen  that  old  horses  never  have  splint.  .Splint  is  a 
disease  of  the  same  character  as  spavin,  and  requires  the 
same  treatment. 


222  THE   HORSE   OWNER's 

CURB. 

This  is  an  enlarjyeraent  at  the  back  part  of  the  hock 
about  four  inches  below  the  cap,  arising  from  strains, 
bruises,  breaking  down  of  the  hock,  etc. 

Take  benoidide  of  mercury  three  drachms,  lard  two 
ounces,  mix  it  well ;  clip  the  hair  close,  just  the  size  of 
the  enlargement,  rub  the  ointment  on  with  the  finger  In 
three  or  four  days  the  matter  which  oozes  from  the  en- 
largement will  form  a  thick  scab;  soften  with  fresh  lard 
and  pick  it  off;  rub  dry  with  the  hand,  and  apply  as 
above.  Five  or  six  applications  will  remove  any  curb. 
For  splints  apply  in  the  same  manner. 

BLOOD  OR  BOG-SPAVIN. 

This  is  but  one  disease,  a  bursal  enlargement  or  an  in- 
crease in  the  secretion  of  the  joint-oil  causing  distention 
of  the  capsular  ligament  which  surrounds  the  joint,  caus- 
ing, puffy  swellings  on  the  front  and  inside  of  tlie  joint* 
rarely  causing  lameness.  Thorough  pin  is  the  same  disease 
on  a  more  extensive  scale,  causing  the  enlargement 
to  extend  through  the  joint  from  one  side  to  the  other. 
The  only  successful  treatment  which  I  have  found,  with  a 
few  exceptions,  is  cold  water  compresses,  placed  upon 
the  joint  in  such  a  manner  as  to  press  upon  the  swollen 
parts,  and  retain  them  there  for  six  or  eight  weeks,  by 
means  of  a  leathern  socket  made  to  fit  the  joint ;  the  com- 
presses to  be  changed  every  day ;  old  muslin  or  wooleu 
cloth  is  the  best  material  to  use. 

PALPITATION  OF  THE  HEART 

This  disease  is  known  to  the  horsemen  as  the  thumps, 
in  consequence  of  the  violent  action  of  the  heart,  causing 
a  jerking  or  shaking  of  the  entire  animal  frame,  observa- 
ble at   a  distance  of  several  yards.     This  disease  is  some* 


ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE.  223 

times  preceded  by  an  obscure  lameness,  generally  occur- 
ring in  the  off  fore-leg,  which,  in  medical  language,  is 
termed  sympathetic. 

Treatment. — The  worst  cases  yield  in  two  hours  to 
the  following  simple  treatment :  Divide  1  dr.  of  digitalis 
into  5  powders,  and  give  one  every  fifteen  minutes,  on  the 
tongue. 

INFLAMMATION"  OF  THE   BRAIN. 

Mad  staggers,  as  this  disease  is  called,  arises  from  va- 
rious causes.  Blows  over  the  head  will  produce  it,  over- 
feeding, a  tight  collar,  powerful  stimulants,  etc.  Symp- 
toms :  the  animal  at  first  is  dull,  and  moves  with  appar- 
ent reluctance  ;  the  membranes  dividing  the  eye-lids  and 
nose  are  much  reddened,  pulse  full  and  quick,  appetite 
lost,  a  vacant  stare  about  the  eyes,  ending  in  delirium  or 
madness.  Every  thing  around  the  animal  is  destroyed 
or  injured  ;  he  continues  his  ravings  until  exhausted. 

Treatment. — Open  the  jugular  vein  as  quickly  as 
possible ;  this  should  be  done  before  the  mad  stage  comes 
on  or  it  is  too  late  to  be  of  much  service.  Open  the  bow- 
els freely  ;  give  the  following  :  Barbadoes  aloes  1  oz.,  cro- 
ton  oil,  10  drops,  ginger,  1  dram.,  gentian,  1  dr.,  mix  with 
molasses  or  honey.  Give  tobacco  smoke  injections  if  con- 
venient, or  soap  and  water  will  answer  the  purpose ; 
give  on  the  tongue,  every  two  hours,  10  drops  tincture  of 
aconite,  until  8  doses  have  been  given,  and  then  stop  the 
aconite ;  give  cold  w^ater  to  drink  and  apply  cold-water 
bandages  to  the  head,  or  bags  of  ice  would  be  better  ; 
give  no  food  for  twelve  hours  after  relief  is  obtained. 
STOMACH  STAGGERS. 

This  disease  occurs  in  horses  that  are  great  feeders  ;  in 
consequence   the  stomach  becooies  enormously  distended. 


224  THE   HORSE   OWNER's  • 

causing  pressure  upon  the  lungs  and  heart,  interfering  with 
the  action  of  both,  and  causing  a  determination  of  blood  to 
the  head,  producing  stupor,  with  a  tendency  to  pitch  for- 
ward, resting  the  head  against  a  tree  or  any  object  which 
may  be  in  his  way ;  the  head  often  becomes  bruised  and 
cut  by  coming  in  contact  with  hard  and  rough  objects  ; 
the  bowels  are  constipated,  the  pulse  full  and  slow,  res- 
piration disturbed,  etc. 

Treatment. — Give  the  purging  ball  recommended  in 
inflammation  of  the  brain,  and  bleed  freely  from  the  jugu- 
lar vein ;  give  no  food  for  forty-eight  hours.  This  is  all 
the  treatment  the  animal  requires.  As  soon  as  the  bowels 
are  opened  the  animal  is  relieved.  Care  should  be  used 
after  recovery  not  to  allow  the  animal  too  much  proven- 
der, and  keep  the  bowels  in  good  order,  as  a  preventive  of 
subsequent  attacks. 

POLL-EVIL. 

This  disease  is  said  to  arise  from  blows  upon  the  head 
behind  the  ears,  in  going  in  or  out  of  stables  with  low 
doors,  pulling  upon  the  halter,  etc.  Such  injuries  in  ani- 
mals whose  blood  is  in  a  bad  condition  will  cause  poll-evil  ; 
but  it  cannot  live  in  a  healthy  system.  The  author's  ex- 
perience convinces  him  that  the  disease  oftener  arises  from 
hereditary  causes  than  from  any  other,  having  met  with, 
on  several  occasions,  two  or  three  unbroken  colts,  from  the 
same  mare,  affected  with  this  disease,  proving  beyond  a 
doubt  the  ready  transmission  of  the  disease  from  parent 
to  offspring. 

Treatment. — The  blood  must  be  thoroughly  purified 
before  a  cure  can  be  effected.  Give  the  following  powder ; 
pulverized  sulphur,  one  pound;  black  antimony  in  pow- 
der, one-half  pouad ;  mix  together  ;  dose,  one  table-spoon- 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  225 

ful  morning  and  night,  in  the  feed.  No  corn  nor  corn-meal 
should  be  given.  Open  the  bowels  with  aloes  or  linseed 
oil.  Lay  the  tumor  open  with  a  knife,  and  inject  into  the 
opening  a  solution  of  sulphate  of  zinc,  two  drachms  to  a 
pint  of  water;  or  the  tincture  of  iodine  is  very  good;  sul- 
phuric acid  is  used  in  "some  cases,  but  it  is  a  dangerous 
remedy. 

FISTULA  OF  THE  WITHERS. 

This  disease  is  situated  on  the  withers,  or  the  raised  line 
of  the  back,  over  the  shoulders,  and  is  precisely  the  same 
disease  as  poll-evil,  location  only  giving  it  a  different  name. 
It  is  more  common  than  poll-evil,  as  ten  to  one,  arising 
from  the  same  causes,  and  requiring  the  same  treatment ; 
it  yields,  however,  more  readily  than  the  former  disease. 
GLANDERS. 

This  loathsome  disease  has  defied  medical  treatment  in 
all  ages  of  the  world.  It  is  one  of  the  most  treacherous 
diseases  known  to  man,  being  highly  contagious,  and  com- 
municated readily  from  horse  to  horse  and  from  horse  to 
man  by  means  of  inoculation.  Hence  the  best  treatment  is 
a  leaden  ball  through  the  brain.  Symptoms:  a  discharge 
of  matter  from  one  or  both  nostrils,  enlargement  of  one  or 
both  glands  under  the  jaw ;  when  one  nostril  only  is 
affected,  the  gland  on  the  same  side  is  almost  invariably 
enlarged,  the  membrane  lining  the  nose  is  pale  or  leaden  in 
color,  with  ulcerations  upon  it.  The  discharge  usually  sticks 
to  the  nostrils  like  glue,  and  is  sometimes  white,  but  oftener 
grayish  in  color.  These  latter  symptoms  appear  in  other 
diseases  of  a  catarrhal  character  from  an  acrid  discharge 
from  the  nose.  Glanders  fully  developed,  is  not  easily  con- 
founded with  other  diseases,  as  the  discharge  becomes  more 
glutinous,  and  adheres  to  the  edges  of  the  nostrils  more 


226  THE   HOESE   OWNER's 

firmly,  with  increased  tenderness  of  the  swellings  under  the 
jaw,  which  now  adheres  closely  to  the  jaw-bone ;  the  dis- 
charge is  somewhat  streaked  with  blood,  and  of  an  offensive 
smell  :  there  is  a  slight  tumefaction  of  the  under  eye-lid, 
a  swelling  or  elevation  of  the  bones  of  the  nose  or  fore- 
head, loss  of  appetite,  debility,  sometimes  cough,  swelling 
of  the  legs  and  sheath,  and  sometimes  lameness  without 
any  apparent  cause,  chancres  or  ulcerations  within  the  nos- 
trils. When  these  symptoms  appear,  the  disease  soon  pro- 
ceeds to  a  fatal  termination.  Since  the  commencement  of 
the  rebellion  many  experiments  have  been  made  with  a 
view  to  discovering  a  cure  for  the  disease,  and  with  some 
prospect  of  success.  The  sulphate  of  soda,  in  ounce  doses, 
three  times  a  day,  has  been  attended  with  partial  success, 
and  many  cures  are  claimed  through  the  agency  of  this 
simple  remedy. 

FARCY. 
This  disease  I  regard  as  an  incipient  stage  of  glanders, 
or  as  a  type  of  the  same  fatal  malady,  and  it  is,  to  a  certain 
extent,  curable.  There  are  two  distinct  varieties  or  stages 
of  farcy  :  one,  which  is  called  button  farcy,  is  altogether 
superficial,  being  confined  to  the  lympliatic  vessels  of  the 
skin,  and  readily  yields  to  medical  treatment ;  the  other 
variety  makes  its  appearance  in  the  extremities,  generally 
upon  the  inside  of  the  hind  legs,  which  become  completely 
engorged,  presenting  a  very  uneven  and  lumpy  appearance, 
excessively  tender  and  painful  to  the  touch.  Small  absces- 
ses are  formed,  which  at  first  discharge  healthy  pus,  but 
soon  ulcerate  and  discharge  a  thin,  sanious  matter.  These 
abscesses  first  make  their  appearance  on  the  inside  of  the 
hind  legs,  and  then  on  the  fore  ones  in  like  manner;  the 
neck  and  lips  come  next  in  turn,  and  they  may  appear  in 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  227 

all  parts  of  the  body,  when  glanders  will  begin   to  mani- 
fest itself. 

Treatment. — Give  1  oz.  of  the  sulphate  of  soda  three 
times  a  day ;  or  corrosive  sublimate,  in  10-grain  doses, 
twice  a  day ;  or  nux  vomica,  in  ^-drachm  doses,  twice  a 
day.  Sulphate  of  copper,  in  2-drachm  doses,  has  been 
used  with  decided  advantao;e.  The  tumors  should  be 
opened  and  caustic  silver  or  red-hot  iron  applied  to  each. 
MANGE 

This  is  a  disease  of  the  skin,  identical  with  itch  in  the 
human  family.  The  hair  comes  off  in  spots,  which  gradu- 
ally blend  together,  causing  scabby  patches :  the  skin 
thickens  and  puckers  along  the  neck. 

Treatment. — Take  the  horse  in  the  sun  and  scrub  him 
thoroughly  all  over  with  castile  soap  and  water ;  then  wash 
him  well  from  head  to  tail  with  gas-water,  in  which  put  two 
drachms  white  hellebore  to  the  gallon.  He  must  now  be 
put  into  another  stall  distant  from  the  one  in  which  he  has 
been  standing.  Thus  treated  it  rarely  requires  more  than 
one  washing  to  effect  a  permanent  cure.  The  harness 
should  be  thoroughly  scrubbed  and  put  away  for  six  or 
eight  weeks.  These  precautions  are  necessary  to  'success 
in  this  otherwise  troublesome  disease. 
SURFEIT. 

This  is  a  scurfy  eruption  all  over  the  body,  arising  from 
an  impure  condition  of  the  blood,  causing  plethora  in  one 
animal,  and  general  debility,  etc.,  in  another.  The  legs 
swell,  the  hair  is  rough  and  staring,  the  membrane  lining 
in  the  nose   presents  a  bluish  cast. 

Give  the  following:  Barbadoes  aloes,  1  oz. ;  nitrate  of 
potassa,  2  drs. ;  gentian,  1  dr.;  make  into  a  ball  with 
water ;  follow  this  with  the  following  powder :  nitrate  of 


228  THE   HORSE   OWNER's 

potash,  2  oz.  :  pnlverized  sulphur,  6  oz. ;  black  antimony 
2  oz. ;  mix  and  divide  into  16  powders;  give  one  morning 
and  night. 

HIDE-BOUND. 

Any  derangement  of  the  system  has  a  tendency  to  pro- 
duce this  condition  in  the  skin.  Medicines  of  an  altera- 
tive character  are  here  indicated ;  the  most  successful 
are:  suljdiur,  pulverized,  eight  ounces ;  nitrate  of  potassa, 
pulverized,  three  ounces ;  black  antimony,  pulverized,  two 
ounces;  sulphate  of  iron,  four  ounces;  mix  all  together, 
and  give  one  tablespoon ful,  twice  a  day  Or,  Barbadoes 
aloes  two  ounces,  nitre  one  ounce,  gentian  one  ounce;  mix 
and  divide  into  sixteen  powders,  one  to  be  given  at  night 
and  one  in  the  morning. 

liOCKED-JAW. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  tronblesome  and  uncertain  dis- 
eases with  which  the  veterinary  surgeon  has  to  combat  ; 
it  is  technically  call  tetanus.  It  arises  generally  from 
nail  wounds  in  the  feet,  sharp,  metallic  substances  taken 
into  and  wounding  the  stomach,  or  stones  in  the  stomach  or 
intestines;  hots  are  said  occasionally  to  be  the  cause  of 
locked-jaw,  etc.,  etc.  The  first  symptoms  of  the  disease  are 
observed  about  the  ninth  or  tenth  day  after  the  injury  is 
done,  which  are  a  straggling  or  stiffness  of  the  hind  legs, 
to  which  succeeds,  in  a  few  days,  the  follow'ing  :  on  elevat- 
ing the  head,  a  spasmodic  motion  of  the  membrane  in  the 
inner  corner  of  the  eye  will  be  observed,  showing  little  more 
than  the  white  of  the  eye,  the  muscles  of  the  jaws  become 
rigid,  the  tongue  is  swollen  and  the  mouth  is  filled  with 
saliva,  the  ears  are  erect,  the  nose  pohed  out,  the  nostrils 
expand,  the  respiration  becomes  disturbed,  and  finally  the 
jaws  become  firmly  set,  and  the  bowels  are  constipated. 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  229 

Treatment. — That  which  I  have  found  most  successful 
is  the  early  administration  of  the  following:  tincture  of 
aconite,  two  drachms,  tincture  of  belladonna,  two  drachms, 
water,  one  half  ounce  ;  mix  and  give  forty  drops,  every 
four  hours,  on  the  tongue.  Keep  a  ball  of  aloes  in  the 
mouth  for  several  days;  there  is  no  fear  of  giving  too 
much ;  I  have  iVequently  given  half  a  pound  in  the  course 
of  a  few  days,  with  good  results.  Hydrocyanic  acid, 
twenty  drops,  in  a  little  water,  and  put  upon  the  tongue 
every  four  hours,  is  an  excellent  remedy.  Foment  the 
jaws  with  bags  of  hops  steeped  in  hot  water,  and  bathe 
the  line  of  the  back  from  the  pole  to  the  croup  with  mus- 
tard and  vinegar;  be  careful  not  to  allow  the  animal  to 
be  unnecessarily  excited  by  noises  and  bustle  about  him, 
but  go  about  him  very  quietly ;  keep  a  pail  of  bran  slop  be- 
fore him  all  the  time.  If  the  foot  has  been  injured,  poul- 
tice with  flaxseed  meal,  and  keep  the  wound  open  until 
healthy  action  has  been  established. 

RHEUMATISM. 

This  a  common  disease  in  some  localities,  as  it  is  in 
the  human  family  ;  the  animal  appears  stiff  and  sore,  the 
lameness  shifting  from  one  limb  to  another,  the  joints 
sometimes  become  swollen  and  painful  to  the  touch,  the  an- 
imal appearing  better  or  worse,  according  to  the  season  of 
the  year  and  the  condition  of  the  atmosphere. 

Treatment. — Open  the  bowels  with  the  following :  cal- 
omel one  drachm,  Barbadoes  aloes,  four  drachms,  alcohol 
two  drachms,  linseed  meal  two  drachms,  molasses  enough 
to  make  into  a  ball;  follow  tliis  with  pine  tar,  one-half 
ounce,  made  into  a  ball  with  flax-seed  meal ;  give  one  ev- 
ery morning.  Poultice  the  feet  with  flaxseed  meal  four 
parts,   ground  mustard,  one  part,   for    several    days,   and 


230  THE   HORSE   OWNER's 

bathe  tlie  affected  limbs  with  the  following  liQiment;  oil 
of  turpentine,  tincture  of  opium,  soap  liniment,  of  each  one 
ounce,  tincture  of  capsicum,  one  drachm;  mix  all  together; 
shake  well  before  using. 

CRAMP. ' 

This  disease  baffles  the  judgment  of  the  most  ex{)erienced 
horsemen,  often  creating  unnecessary  alarm  from  the  pe- 
culiar manner  in  which  the  animal  is  handled. 

Symptoms. — The  horse  appears  well  in  body  and  limb, 
until  efforts  are  made  to  move  him  ;  he  then  appears  to 
have  lost  all  power  of  motion  in  one  of  his  legs,  usually 
the  hind  ones ;  it  is  firmly  planted  on  the  ground,  and  the 
most  powerful  man  fails  to  move  it.  On  compelling  the 
animal  to  move,  the  leg  drags  behind  as  though  it  were 
dislocated.  Upon  striking  him  with  the  whip  he  frequent- 
ly will  take  two  or  three  natural  steps,  and  the  leg  drags 
as  before: 

Treatment. — Hand  rubbing  is   very  necessary,  and   use 
the  following  liniment  upon  the  affected  part  ;   alcohol,  one 
pint;  tincture  of  camphor,  one  half  pint;  tinture  of  opi- 
um four  ounces  ;  mix  all  together. 
WARTS. 

When  the  warts  have  necks,  all  that  is  necessary  for 
their  removal  is  a  piece  of  silk  tied  tightly  around  them 
as  closely  to  the  roots  as  possible  ;  in  a  few  days  they  will 
slough  away  ;  or  if  they  are  larger  at  their  base,  pass  a 
needle  armed  with  a  double  thread  through  the  wart  as 
near  the  root  as  possible,  and  tie  each  way  so  as  to  cut 
off  the  circulation  of  the  blood,  and  it  will  soon  die  and 
come  away  ;  or  paint  it  over  with  the  permanganate  of 
potash  once  a  day  for  a  week  ;  or  use  the  caustic  potash 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  231 

i  n  tlie  same  manner ;  either  of  these  remedies  usually  an- 
swers the  purpose. 

SADDLE-GALLS. 

These  are  too  well  known  to  horsemen  to  require  any 
gpecial  remarks  regarding  their  cause,  etc. 

Treatment. — Bathe  the  parts  two  or  three  times  a  day 
with  equal  parts  of  tincture  of  myrrh  and  tincture  of  aloes  ; 
or,  collodion,  one  ounce;  castor  oil,  two  ounces;  mixed 
together;  or,  glycerine  is  a  very  good  remedy. 

DISEASES  OP  THE  EYE.— AMAUROSIS,  OR  GUT- 
TA  SERENA, 

Commonly  called  glass  eye.  In  this  disease  the  eyes  have 
a  peculiar  glassy  appearance,  with  an  enlarged  or  expand- 
ed pnpil.  The  eyes  are  clear  and  show  no  indications  of 
disease  to  the  ordinary  observer,  yet  the  animal  is  par- 
tially or  wholly  blind.  The  cause  is  paralysis  of  the  op- 
tic nerve,  the  best  means  of  detecting  which  is  to  expose 
the  eye  to  different  degrees  of  light,  which,  when  disease 
exists,  makes  no  impression  on  the  pupil  whatever ;  while 
in  a  sound  eye  the  pupil  contracts  when  exposed  to  a 
strong  light,  and  expands  when  removed  to  a  weaker 
light,  or  when  removed  to  a  dark  place.  An  animal  af- 
fected with  amaurosis  will  run  against  any  object  in  his 
way,  and  present  all  other  symptoms  of  a  horse  blind  from 
any  other  cause. 

Treatment. — Give  a  strong  purge  ;  follow  this  twice  a 
day  with  half-drachm  doses  of  nux  vomica,  mixed  in  the 
feed :  apply  a  fly  blister  back  of  the  eye,  and  give  bran 
mashes  for  a  few  days.  No  corn  should  be  used  until  the 
sight  is  restored. 


232  THE   HORSE   OWNEK's 

lE-FLAMMATION  OP  THE  HAW, 

As  it  is  commonly  called,  also  known  as  the  Hooks.  This 
is  a  swelling  from  inflammation  of  the  membrane  in  the 
inner  corner  of  the  eye,  called  the  membrana  nictitans;  its 
office  or  functiori'  is  to  cleanse  the  eye  of  dirt  or  other  sub- 
stances getting  into  it. 

Treatment. — This  is  simple  and  effective ;  open  the 
bowels  with  the  aloes  ball  recommended  in  rheumatism, 
and  apply  the  following  wash :  tincture  of  opium  one 
ounce ;  rain  water,  one  pint ;  mix  together  and  bathe  the 
eye  three  or  four  times  a  day.  Do  not  be  persuaded  to 
cut  out  this  membrane  of  the  eye,  as  its  removal  does  in- 
jury  by  impairing  its  functions. 

SIMPLE  OPHTHALMIA. 

This  disease  arises  from  some  external  injury,  as  a  blow 
upon  the  eye,  or  from  a  foreign  body  getting  into  it,  caus- 
ing inflammation  to  ensue  ;  the  eye  becomes  swollen,  very 
sensitive  and  watery. 

Treatment. — Open  the  vein  under  the  eye,  and  let  it 
bleed  until  it  stops  of  itself.  Open  the  bowels,  and  use 
the  following  wash  :  tincture  of  opium,  six  drachms  ;  tinct- 
ure of  aconite,  two  drachms  ;  rain-water,  one  pint ;  mix 
all  together,  and  bathe  the  eye  three  times  a  day  ;  or,  use 
belladonna,  one  ounce,  rain-water,  one  pint ;  mix,  and 
bathe  the  same. 

SPECIFIC  OPHTHALMIA. 

This  is  called  by  horsemen,  moon-blindness,  from  its 
periodical  appearance  ;  supposed  by  some  persons  to  be 
governed  by  the  moon.  'J'he  eyes  in  this  disease  become 
watery,  and  a  white  film  covers  the  entire  ball  of  the  eye. 
When  this  disease  once  appears,  we  may  look  for  its  ter- 


ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE.  233 

mination  in  blindness.     The  eyes  may  be  cleared  np  a  few 
times,  but  eventually  the  animal  goes  blind. 

Treatment — 0[)cn  the  bowels  freely  with  the  aloes 
ball,  and  give  internally  one  of  the  following  powders  in 
the  feed,  night  and  morning  :  colchicum  root,  pulverized, 
one  ounce  ;  linseed  meal,  two  ounces  ;  mix  and  divide  into 
twenty  powders.  Bathe  the  eye  with  the  following :  bella- 
donna, one  ounce ;  rain-water,  one  pint ;  or,  nitrate  of  sil- 
ver, eight  grains;  distilled  water,  four  ounces,  mix;  or, 
sulphate  of  zinc,  one-half  drachm ;  diacetate  of  lead,  one 
drachm  ;  water,  one  and  a  half  pints  ;  or,  take  a  piece  of 
sulphate  of  coppier  (blue  stone),  shave  it  thin  and  smooth, 
and  pass  it  carefully  between  the  eyelid  and  the  eyeball 
twice  a  day  until  the  eye  is  cleared  up. 

CATARACT. 

This  disease  is  usually  the]  result  of  termination  of  spe- 
cific ophthalmia,  causing  an  opacity  or  breaking  up  of  the 
crystalline  lens,  situated  directly  behind  the  pupil,  pre- 
senting a  white  and  cloudy  appearance  in  the  centre  of  the 
eye,  and  causing^partial  or  total  blindness.  Little  can  be 
done  by  way  of  treatment  in  this  disease  as  it  occurs  in 
the  horse. 


234  THE   HORSE    OW^'ER's 


BECAPTULATION  OF  REMEDIES. 


Lampass. — Lancing. 

Bags  OR  Washers. — Cutting,  and  apply  alum  water  or 
tincture  myrrh  and  water,  equal  parts. 

Sore  Mouth. — Tinctures  myrrh,  aloes  and  water  equal 
parts. 

Uneven  Teeth. — Filing. 

Wolf-Teeth. — Extracting  with  dentist's  forceps. 

Caries  or  Diseased  Teeth  should  be  extracted. 

Sore  Throat. — Mustard  paste  with  vinegar,  or  linseed 
oil,  two  parts,  ammonia  one  part,  applied  outwardly.  Pow- 
dered saltpetre,  half-tea-spoonful,  upon  tongue,  twice  a  day. 

Strangles. — Flax  seed  poultice,  steam  nostrils,  and 
lancing.     Veterinary  surgeon  if  possible. 

Influenza. — Tincture  of  aconite  or  bryonia,  ten  drops 
in  water  every  six  hours  for  two  days,  then  spirits  nitre  1 
oz.,  extract  belladonna,  2  dr.,  in  a  pail  of  water  once  a  day. 
A  powder  of  gentian  root,  salt-petre  and  anise-seed  each  1 
oz.,  sulphate  of  quinine,  1  dr.;  mix  and  divide  into  eight 
powders  ;  give  three  times  a  day  in  feed  ;  or  powdered 
cinchona  and  powdered  quassia,  each  2  oz.,  powdered  anise- 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  235 

seed,  1  oz.;  mix  and  divide  into  four  powders,  and  give 
three  times  a  day  in  feed.  Bathe  throat  in  mustard  and 
vinegar,  or  with  linseed  oil,  3  oz.  and  ammonia,  1  oz.,  mixed. 

Bronchitis. — A  ball  of  nitrate  of  potassa,  pulverized 
digitalis,  and  tartrate  of  antimony,  each  ^  dr.,  molasses 
sufficient  to  make  the  ball,  once  in  twelve  hours  till  fever 
is  broken  ;  then  nitrate  of  potassa  1|  oz.,  nitrate  of  soda  6 
oz.;  mix  and  divide  into  six  powders ;  twice  a  day  in  mash; 
or  extract  belladonna,  1  dr.,  spirits  nitre,  1  oz.,  solution  of 
acetate  of  ammonia,  4  oz.,  in  half  pint  of  water  as  a  drench. 
Blister  throat  and  sides  with  fly-blister  and  turpentine,  or 
mustard,  ammonia  and  water.     Rub  in  with  the  hand. 

Nasal  Gleet. — Give  night  and  morning  one  of  the  fol- 
lowing powders ;  Sesquichloride  of  iron,  2  oz.,  powdered 
cinnamon  1  oz.;  mix  and  divide  into  four  powders  ;  or  car- 
bonate of  iron,  pulverized  gentian,  and  pulverized  quassia, 
of  each  1  oz.;  divide  into  four  powders  ;  or  nux  vomica, 
pulverized,  ^  oz. ;  linseed  meal,  2  oz.;  divide  into  8  powders* 
Another  good  preparation  is  muriate  of  barytes,  ^  oz.;  lin- 
seed meal,  1  oz.;   divide  into  eight  powders. 

Broken  Wind  or  Heaves. — Divide  half  an  ounce  of 
pulverized  digitalis  in  20  parts,  and  give  one  part  night 
and  morning  in  the  feed,  until  gone  ;  or  take  as.safcetida,  2 
drs.,camphor,  1  dr., mix  and  give  every  other  night  for  a  week. 

Inflammation  or  the  Bowels. — Bleed  from  neck,  give 
10  drops  tincture  aconite  every  three  hours,  apply  hot  wet 
blankets,  inject  tobacco-smoke  or  soap  and  water.  No  food 
for  forty-eight  hours. 

DiARRTKEA. — Give  every  six  hours,  until  checked  ;  pow- 
dered opium,  one  dr.;  pov^>dered  catechu,  2  drs.;  prepared 
chalk,  1  oz.;  mix  and  divide  into  four  powders. 


236  THE   HORSF   OWNER's 

Colic,  Spasmodic. — Give  one  ounce  tincture  opium 
and  one  ounce  sulphuric  ether  in  half  a  pint  of  water  ;  re- 
peat in  half  an  hour,  if  relief  is  not  obtained.  Or  give  the 
following  ;  tincture  of  opium,  1  oz ;  aromatic  spirits  of 
ammonia,  ^  oz.;  extract  of  belladonna,  1  dr.;  water,  1 
pint  ;  mix.  In  flatulent  colic,  give  chlorate  of  potash,  -|  oz.; 
sulphuric  ether,  ^  oz.;  tincture  'of  aloes,  3  oz.;  water,  1 
pint ;    mix  and  drench.' 

Worms. — Calomel,  |  dr.;  tartrate  of  antimony,  ^  dr.; 
linseed  meal,  ^  oz.;  mix  and  give  at  night  ;  or  iron 
filings,  2  drs.;  common  salt,  ^  oz.;  powdered  savin,  1  dr.; 
linseed  meal,  ^  oz.;  mix  ;  give  every  night  for  a  week  ;  or 
assafoetida,  2  drs.;  calomel,  1^  drs.;  savin  1^  drs.;  oil 
male  fern,  30  drops  ;  linseed  meal,  2  drs.;  mix  with  mo- 
lasses and  give  at  night  ;  or  calomel,  1  dr.;  powdered 
wormwood,  1  oz,;  honey  sufficient  to  make  the  ball  ;  give 
at  night.  Follow  either  of  the  above  with  the  following 
ball  ;  Barbadoes  aloes,  1  oz.:  pulverized  gentian,  2  drs.; 
pulverized  ginger,  1  dr.;  water  sufficient  to  make  the  ball. 
Another  remedy.  Barbadoes  aloes,  6  drs.;  male  fern,  4  oz.; 
spirits  turpentine,  2  oz.;  mix  and  divide  into  six  balls  ; 
give  one  three  times  a  day. 

Retention  of  Urine. — Give  a  ball  every  night  of  pow- 
dered opium,  ^  oz.;  powdered  kino,  1  oz.;  prepared  chalk,  1 
oz.,  mixed  with  molassss  and  made  into  six  balls. 

Stone  in  Bladder. — Muriatic  acid,  2  drs.,  in  a  pail  of 
water  once  a  day. 

Quitter — Flax-seed  meal  poultice  till  soft,  then  cut 
away.  Inject  once  a  day,  chloride  of  zinc,  2  drs.,  dis- 
solved in  one  pint  of  water;  or  sulphate  of  zinc,  Ih  drs.,  dis- 
solved in  one  pint  of  water ;  nitrate  of  silver,  2  drs.,  in  a 


ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE.  237 

pint  of  water ;  or  glycerine  may  be  used  with  advantage. 
Before  using  the  wash,  have  the  foot  well  cleaned  with 
castile  soap  and  water. 

Thrush. — Wash  the  feet  well  with  soap  and  water,  and 
sprinkle  a  small  quantity  of  pulverized  sulphate  of  cop- 
per in  the  cleft,  and  secure  it  by  pressing  a  little  raw  cot- 
ton. 

Canker. — Take  equal  parts  of  pine  tar  and  lard,  add 
sulphuric  acid  while  melting;  apply  to  foot;  or  use  col- 
lodion, ^  oz.;  castor  oil,  1  oz.;  mix  and  apply  to  tho 
parts. 

Scratches. — Wash  parts  in  soap  and  water,  and  apply 
once  a  day ;  Collodion,  ^  oz,;  castor  oil,  1  oz.;  or  apply 
once  a  week  a  saturated  solution  of  bichloride  of  mercury. 

Grease  Heels. — Give  a  ball  of  Barbadoes  aloes,  1  oz.; 
pulverized  gentian  root,  2  drs.;  pulverized  ginger,  1  dr.; 
water  sufficient  to  make  the  ball.  Wash  the  parts  well, 
and  poultice  for  two  or  three  days  with  the  following  : 
Flaxseed  meal  mixed  with  a  solution  of  2  drs.  sulphate  zinc 
to  a  pail  of  water  %  bathe  frequently  with  glycerine,  or  a 
solution  of  zinc,  or  a  solution  of  chloride  of  lime. 

Water  Farcy.  —  Give  one  of  the  following  powders, 
night  and  morning,  ii^  the  feed:  Sulphate  of  iron,  2  oz., 
nitrate  of  potassa,  1  oz.;  pulverized  gentian,  1  oz.;  pul- 
verized ginger,  6  drs.;  anise-seed,  ground,  ^  oz.;  mix  and 
divide  into  eight  powders ;  or  sulphate  of  copper,  nitrate 
of  potassa,  and  pulverized  gentian,  of  each  1  oz.;  pulver- 
ized ginger,  ^  oz.;  anise-seed,  ground,  6  dsr.;  mix  and  di- 
vide into  eight  powders.  Rub  hard  and  exercise  moder- 
ately. 


238  THE   HOESE   OWNER's 

Founder. — If  the  animal  is  in  full  condition,  bleed  free- 
ly from  the  feet,  and  give  the  following :  Barbadoes  aloes, 
6  drs.;  croton  oil,  6  drops ;  pulverized  ginger,  1  dr.;  pul- 
verized gentian,  2  drs.;  mix  with  water  in  form  of  ball ; 
foment  the  feet  well  with  hot  water,  and  then  poultice  with 
flaxseed  meal  for  several  days ;  give  in  the  water  every  six 
hours,  extract  of  belladonna,  1  dr. 

Shoulder  Strain. — Bleed  freely  from  the  planter  vein 
running  down  upon  the  inside  of  the  front  legs.  Foment 
the  shoulders  well  with  hot  water  if  the  case  is  a  recent 
one.  If  of  long  standing,  a  seton  will  be  more  effective. 
The  following  liniment  will  be  a  useful  application :  Sweet 
oil  1  pint;  spirits  of  hartshorn,  3  oz.;  spirits  of  turpentine, 
2  oz.;  mix  all  together ;  shake  well  before  using ;  or  al- 
cohol, 1  pint ;  spirits  of  camphor,  tincture  of  myrrh,  castile 
soap,  of  each  1  oz.;  mix  all  together ;  or  oil  of  turpentine, 
1  oz.;  tincture  of  opium  1  oz.;  soap  liniment,  1  oz.;  tincture 
of  capsicum,  1  dr.;  mix  all  together. 

Capped  Hock. — Blister;  tincture  of  iodine,  or  iodine 
ointment,  is  useful. 

Bone  Spavin. — When  there  is  external  enlargement,  ac- 
tive blisters  should  be  applied  over  the  part.  Liquid  blis- 
ter :  Powdered  croton  seeds,  ^  oz.;  powdered  cantharides,  1 
oz.;  oil  of  turpentine,  1  pint;  olive  oil,  1  pint;  mix  all  to- 
gether, and  shake  well  before  using. 

Curb. — In  recent  cases  the  part  should  be  bathed  with 
tincture  of  iodine  once  a  day ;  or  use  iodine  ointment. 
Take  a  little  blood  from  the  sephena  vein  on  the  inside  of 
the  hind  leg,  above  the  hock.  Should  this  not  succeed, 
blisters  must  be  resorted  to. 


ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE.  239 

Blood  or  Bog  Spavin. — Use  cold  water  compresses, 
placed  upon  the  joint  for  six  or  eight  weeks,  by  means  of 
a  leathern  socket  made  to  fit  it.  Old  woolen  or  muslin 
cloth  is   best. 

Palpitation  of  the  Heart. — The  worst  cases  yield 
in  two  hours  to  the  following  simple  treatment :  Divide  1 
dr.  of  digitalis  into  five  powders,  and  give  one  every  fifteen 
minutes,  on  the  tongue. 

Inflammation  of  the  Brain. — Open  the  jugular 
vein  as  quickly  as  possible.  It  should  be  done  before  the 
mad  stage  comes  on,  or  it  is  too  late  to  be  of  much  service. 
Open  the  bowels  freely;  give  the  following:  Barbadoes 
aloes,  1  oz.;  croton  oil,  10  drops ;  ginger,  I  dr.;  gentian, 
1  dr.;  mix  with  molasses  or  honey.  Give  tobaoco-smoke 
injections  if  convenient,  or  soap  and  water  will  answer  the 
purpose  ;  give,  on  the  tongue,  every  two  hours,  10  drops 
tincture  of  aconite,  until  eight  doses  have  been  given,  and 
then  stop  the  aconite ;  give  cold  water  to  drink  and  ap- 
ply cold  water  bandages  to  the  head,  or  bags  of  ice  would 
be  better ;  give  no  food  for  twelve  hours  after  relief  is  ob- 
tained. 

Stomach  Staggers.— Giv^e  the  purging  ball  recommend- 
ed in  inflammation  of  the  brain,  and  bleed  freely  from  the 
jugular  vein;  give  no  food  for  forty-eight  hours;  this  is  all 
the  treatment  the  animal  requires. 

Poll-Evil.  —  Give  the  following  powder  :  Pulverized 
sulphur,  1  lb.;  black  antimony,  in  powder,  -|-  lb.;  mix  to- 
gether; dose,  one  table-spoonful  morning  and  night  in 
the  feed.  No  corn  nor  corn  meal  should  be  given.  Open 
the  bowels  with  aloes  or  linseed  oil.     Lay  the  tumor  open 


24Q  THE   HOESE   OWNER^S 

with  a  knife,  and  inject  into  the  opening  a  solution  of 
sulphate  of  dnc,  2  drs.,  to  1  pint  of  water,  or  the  tinct- 
ure of  iodine  is  very  good ;  sulphuric  acid  is  used  in  some 
cases  but  it  is  a  dangerous  remedy. 

Glanders. — Sulphate  of  soda,  in  1  oz.  doses,  three  times 
a  day,  has  been  attended  with  partial  success;  but  pow- 
der and  ball,  applied  through  the  medium  of  a  rifle,  is 
the  only  sure  cure  we  know  of. 

Farcy. — Give  one  ounce  of  sulphate  of  soda  three 
times  a  day,  or  corrosive  sublimate,  in  ten-grain  doses, 
twice  a  day  ;  or  nnx  vomica,  in  ^  dr.  doses,  twice  a  day. 
Sulphate  of  copper,  in  2  dr.  doses,  has  been  used  with  de- 
cided advantage.  The  tumors  should  be  opened,  aud 
caustic  silver  or  red-hot  iron  applied  to  each. 

Mange. — Take  the  horse  in  the  sun  and  scrub  him 
thoroughly  all  over  \^th  castile  soap  and  water,  then 
wash  him  well  from  head  to  tail  with  gas  water,  in  which 
put  2  drs.  white  hellebore  to  the  gallon.  Put  him  in  a 
different  stable  and  use  clean  harness. 

Surfeit. — Give  the  following:  Barbadoes  aloes,  1  oz.; 
nitrate  of  potassa,  2  drs.;  gentian,  1  dr.;  make  into  a 
ball  with  water;  follow  this  with  the  following  powder: 
nitrate  of  potash,  2  oz.;  pulverized  sulphur,  6  oz.;  black 
antimony,  2  oz.;  mix  and  divide  into  sixteen  powders; 
give  one  morning  and  night. 

Hide-Bound. — Take  sulphur,  pulverized,  8  oz.;  ni- 
trate potassa,  pulverized,  3  oz^  black  antimony,  pulver. 
ized,  2  oz.;  sulphate  of  iron,  4  oz.;  mix  together  ;  give  1 
tablespoonful  twice  a  day.  Or,  Barbadoes  aloes,  2  oz.; 
nitre,  1  oz.;  gentian,  1  oz.;  mix  and  divide  into  sixteen 
powders  to  be  given  night  and  morning. 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  241 

Rheumatism. — Open  the  bowels  witli  the  following; 
Calomel,  1  dr.;  Barbadoes  aloes,  4  drs.;  alcohol,  2  drs  ; 
linseed  meal,  2  drs,;  molasses  enough  to  make  into  a  ball  ; 
follow  this  with  pine  tar,  -|  oz.,  made  into  a  ball  with  flax- 
seed meal;  give  one  every  morning.  Poultice  the  feet 
with  flaxseed  meal,  4  parts,  ground  mustard,  1  part,  for 
several  days ;  and  bathe  the  affected  limbs  with  the  fol- 
lowing liniment :  Oil  of  turpentine,  tincture  of  opium 
soap  liniment,  of  each  1  oz.;  tincture  of  capsicum,  1  dr.; 
mix  all  too^ether :  shake  well  before  using. 

Cramps. — Hand-rubbing  is  very  necessary,  and  use  the 
following  liniment  upon  the  affected  part ;  alcohol,  1 
pint;  tincture  of  camphor,  ^  pint;  tincture  of  opium,  4 
oz.;  mix  all  together. 

Saddle-Galls. — Bathe  the  parts  two  or  three  times  a 
day  with  tincture  of  myrrh  and  tincture  of  aloes,  equal 
parts  ;  or  collodion,  1  oz.;  castor  oil,  2  oz  ,  mixed ;  or 
glycerine. 

Amaurosis, — Give  a  strong  purge ;  follow  this  twice  a 
day  with  |  dr.  doses  of  nux  vomica  mixed  in  the  feed : 
apply  a  fly- blister  back  of  the  eye.  Give  no  corn  until 
isight  is  restored. 

The  Hooks. — Open  the  bowels  with  the  aloes  ball  rec- 
ommended in  rheumatism,  and  apply  the  following  wash. 
Tincture  of  opium,  one  ounce,  rain  water,  one  pint ;  mix 
together,  and  bathe  the  eye  three  or  four  times  a  day.  Do 
not  be  persuaded  to  cut  out  this  membrane  of  the  eye  as 
its  removal  does  injury  by  impairing  its  function. 

Simple  Ophthalmia. — Open  the  vein  under  the  eye 
and  let  it  bleed  uutil  it  stops  of  itself.     Open  the  bowels 


242  THE   HORSE   OWNER's 

and  use  the  following  wasli ;  Tincture  of  opium,  six 
drachms,  tinctm-e  of  aconite,  two  drachms,  rain  water,  one 
pint ;  mix  all  together  and  bathe  the  eye  three  times  a 
day ;  or  use  belladonna  one  ounce,  rain  water,  one  pint ; 
mix  and  bathe  the  same. 

Specific  Ophthalmia. — Give  in  the  feed,  night  and 
morning,  cplchicum  root,  pulverized,  one  ounce,  linseed 
meal,  two  ounces;  mix  and  divide  into  twenty  powders. 
Bathe  the  eye  with  the  following ;  Belladonna,  one  ounce, 
rain  water,  one  pint;  or,  nitrate  of  silver,  eight  grains,  dis- 
tilled water,  four  ounces,  mix;  or,  sulphate  of  zinc  one-half 
drachm,  diaceate  of  lead,  one  drachm,  water,  one  and  one- 
half  pint ;  or,  take  a  piece  of  sulphate  of  copper  (blue 
stone),  shave  it  thin  and  smooth,  and  pass  it  carefully 
between  the  eyelid  and  the  eyeball  twice  a  day  until  the  eye 
is  cleared  up. 

For  Fermenting  Swollen  or  Stocked  Legs. — 
Procure  one  pound  of  smartweed,  place  the  same  in  an  eight 
gallon  kettle — add  four  gallons  of  soft  water,  place  over  a 
slow  fire  and  boil  down  to  two  gallons,  strain  the  solution 
into  another  iron  or  tin  vessel ;  get  one  pound  of  alum,  place 
in  a  mortar  and  pulverize  fine  ;  sift  the  alum  into  the  liquid, 
again  place  over  the  fire  and  stir  until  well  dissolved.  Now 
wind  the  limb  tight  with  a  hay  rope,  pour  one  pint  of  the 
solution  in  at  the  top  of  the  bandage  when  blood  warm  ; 
repeat  every  hour  for  forty-eight  hours.  This  is  the  best 
fomentation  used ;  it  will  remove  all  inflammation  and 
swelling''  in  two  days.  If  there  is  a  cut  or  wound,  after  fo- 
menting, apply  blue  ointment  No.  3  until  healed.  In  case 
of  strain  or  bruise  apply  a  general  liniment. 

Blue  Ointment. — Take  half  an  ounce  of  verdigris,  one 


ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE.  243 

ounce  of  blue  vitrei,  four  ounces  of  ointment  of  rosin,  one 
ounce  spirits  of  turpentine,  grind  all  fine,  mix  well  with 
one  pound  lard,  and  it  is  fit  for  use.  Common  rosin  will  do 
if  the  ointment  is  not  convenient. 

Spavin  and  Ringworm  Ointment. — Take  two  ounces 
cantharides,  one  ounce  gum  opborboum,  two  ounces  tur- 
pentine, one  ounce  tincture  iodine,  and  three  drachms  cor- 
rosive sublimate.  Grind  all  fine,  and  mix  with  two  pounds 
of  lard. 

To  STOP  Blood. — If  you  can  get  hold  of  the  artery  or 
vein,  tie  it  up ;  if  not,  take  the  following :  ten  grains  of 
nitrate  of  silver  and  four  ounces  of  water ;  apply  it  to  the 
wound,  and  it  will  stop  immediately.  Apply  this  to  warts 
after  cutting  them  out. 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS. 


PAGB. 


History  of  the  horses  trained  by  C.  H.  Williams 5 

The  first  step  to  be  taken  with  the  wild  colt 8 

Bitting  the  colt 21 

The  bitting  bridle 21 

Hitching  in  stall  the  first  time 22 

Handling  the  colt's  feet 24 

To  ride  the  colt , 26 

Harnessing  the  colt 29 

Hitching  the  colt  to  wagon 30 

Hitching  the  colt  in  single  harness 33 

Teaching  him  to  back 35 

Subduing  the  colt 35 

Dimension  of  surcingle 37 

Castrating 38 

How  to  drive  a  kicking  horse 39 

To  drive  a  kicker  in  double  harness 41 

Balky  horses 43 

Hard  pullers 45 

Tongue  over  the  bit .- 47 

Run-away,  bolting  or  plunging  horses 48 

Driving  on  one  rein 50 

Break  any  halter  puller 51 

Halter  puller  No.  2 52 

Getting  cast  in  the  stall 53 

Pawing  in  the  stall 55 

Kicking  in  the  stall 55 

Vicious  biters 56 

Horses  that  are  vicious  to  shoe 56 

Breechy  horses 57 


246  TABLE   OP   CONTENTS. 

How  to  catch  a  horse  in  pasture 59 

Teaching  triclis 63 

How  to  tell  a  horse's  age 68 

Jockey  tricks 68 

Treatise  on  shoeing 70 

Riding  and  Driving 91 

The  accoutrements  and  aids 91 

Mounting  and  dismounting 91 

Management  of  the  seat  and  reins 95 

The  ordinary  pacer 99 

Female  horsemanship 117 

Driving 122 

By-Laws  of  the  National  Association 127 

Rules  and  regulations  of  the  National  Association 133 

Betting  rules 154 

General  hints 158 

Turf  calendar 160 

Stable  management 163 

Air 163 

Litter 167 

Light 168 

Grooming 169 

Exercise 172 

Closing  remarks 174 

Training  steers,  as  taught  by  A.   H.  Rockwell 177 

Kicking  cows 179 

Training  dogs 180 

Training  the  Shepherd  to  drive 181 

The  watch  dog 185 

The  trick  dog ^ 186 

The  first  steps  to  be  taken  with  the  dog 187 

Diseases  of  the  dog 192 

Distemper 194 

Bilious  fever „ 195 

Staggers  and  fits 195 

Bleeding 196 

Canker  in  the  ear 196 

External  canker  in  the  ear 1 


TABLE   OF   CONTENTS.  247 

For  strains 196 

Bruises  or  strains 196 

Poisoned 197 

Fleas 197 

Torn  ears 197 

Films  over  the  eyes 197 

Films  caused  by  thorns 197 

AVounds 198 

Green  wounds  198 

Bite  of  snake .- 198 

Diseases  of  the  horse 198 

Inflammation 198 

Diseases  of  the  mouth,  lampass 201 

Bags  or  washers 202 

Sore  mouth 202 

Uneven  teeth 202 

Wolf  teeth 202 

Caries  of  the  teeth 203 

Distemper 203 

Sore  throat 204 

Strangles    204 

Influenza 205 

Bronchitis      ^  < 206 

Nasal  gleet 207 

Pneumonia 208 

Pleurisy 209 

Dropsy  of  the  chest 209 

Broken  wind  or  heaves 209 

Inflammation  of  the  bowels 210 

Diarrhoea 210 

Colic 211 

Worms , 211 

Retention  of  urine 213 

Profuse  staling 213 

Stones  in  the  bladder 213 

Quitter 214 

Thrush 214 

Canker 214 


248  TABLE  OF   CONTENTS. 

Scratches 215 

Grease  heels 215 

Water  farcy 216 

Founder 216 

Pomiced  feet 217 

Navicular-joint  [lameness 217 

Ossification  of  the  lateral  cartilages 218 

Shoulder  strain 219 

Capped  hock '. 219 

Bone  spavin 219 

Ringbone 221 

Splint 221 

Curb 222 

Blood  or  bog  spavin : 222 

Palpitation  of  the  heart 222 

Inflammation  of  the  brain 223 

Stomach  staggers 223 

Poll-evil ; 224 

Fistula  of  the  withers 225 

Glanders 225 

Farcy 226 

Mange 227 

Surfeit 227 

Hide-bound 228 

Locked-jaw 228 

Rheumatism 229 

Cramp 230 

W-arts 230 

Saddle  galls 231 

Diseases  of  the  eye,  amaurosis,  or  gutta  serena 231 

Inflammation  of  the  haw 232 

Simple  opthalmia ; 232 

Specific  opthalmia 232 

Cataract 233 

Recapitulation  of  remedies 234 


^iliiMar  FMRy  Ubraiy  of  Veteflnary  Medk^ 

Q^smmgi^  Sidhool  of  Veterinary  Medicine  at 

Tu^s  University 

200  Westboro  Road 

North  Grafton,  MA  01536 


